Jump to content


gserep1

Regular Member
  • Posts

    37
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by gserep1

  1. ALL LS and GS 430 engines have timing belts. GS & IS 350 and GS and LS 460's all have timing chains! This is a change for the better, but belts are quieter. I don't think that the water pump has to be changed anymore at 90,000 miles.
  2. This is caused by WORN valve giudes. The questions would be, 1. How often has the oil been changed during the engine's life? 2. What kind of oil has been used? 3. How many miles does the car have? The GS200 and GS400 /430's are RELIABLE engines capable of HUNDREDSS of thousands of miles with no problems. Proper care is the key to long life. Many of us are 2nd and 3rd owners, so in the absence of records, we often have NO clue how the car was cared for prior to our purchase. On the Lexus engines, worn valve guides require replacement for proper repair. There are some "additives" that TRY to swell the existing seals, but if no seals are present, then nothing can repair the engine short of removing the head and having the valves reground and new valve guides installed. You save themost by removing the head(s) yourself and have a machine shop do the machine work for you. Then you just replace the head with new gaskets and seals. The dealership is the most expensive, followed by an independent repair shop. If the mileage is close to a 90,000 mile interval..(90, 180, 270), then do the timing belt, tensioner and berarings while the head is out. Those parts have to be removed to gain access to the head anyway. GOOD LUCK in your repair.
  3. Thank you. The weird thing about it is the computer read shift solenoid c, so the mechanic replaced it. Now the code for the engine light is saying the same solenoid again. Its so frustrating. I'm thinking maybe I just have to replace all of them. How have you been servicing the transmission so far? This is very unusual for the AISIN Transmission. It is bullet-proof in stock applications. I have 160,00 miles on my stock transmission. It has been serviced with AMSOIL Universal Transmission fluid since 60,000 miles, plus it has a back-up HAYDEN transmssion cooler. The fluid never gets dangerously hot, even in desert conditions. The fluid is always red and sm,ells clean and fresh, even after 50,000 mile intervals. If you MUST run the Toyota Type T-IV fluid, it should be changed every 30,000 miles religiously for best service. That fluid turns dark very quickly otherwise. I am not saying that dirty fluid caused your problem, but so many of us have NO problems with our transmission for years and years. Things DO happen sometimes, so service that transmission regularly.
  4. No way the bushings are worn on a brand new LS460... I don't know about the new LS460, but on the GS400, the subframe bolts were loose. I was at my wits end after replacing the upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends on my 99 GS4. My alignment shop found the looe bolts. he has seen it before, and he instructed my mechanic to go below and tighten each nut and bolt beneath the car around the front wheels. Once the bolts were tightened, ny noise went away and stayed for 30,00 miles now. NOT A PEEP. SORRY about the highjack of the LS460 thread. l want one of these, and I know if I drive it, the GS will be history. It will happen soon! OH MY ACHING WALLET! I won't be getting the LS600 HYBRID though. I saw one for $119,000 the other night. Can't afford THAT.
  5. I am SO HAPPY you got this done. Now you can enjoy your car like it was meant to be enjoyed. I changed mine in 2006, and it has NEVER failed to start since then. I am looking to many more carefree years of driving on this starter. Have a happy Halloween! GSEREP1
  6. DCFISH, I am also looking for as replacement LCD display for my 1999 GS400 with Pioneer radio. I have the ability to replace it myself. Please give me the price and availability. My address is jessie.ramsey@navy.mil Can you also send a response to gserep111@yahoo.com as well? I have 2 email addresses and I need to check both of them from time to time. This should not too hard to do if I had the instructions. Thanks GSEREP1
  7. Man we all gotta learn. I just know THIS gripe from first hand experience. I learn from folks everyday, and I have been doing this automotive thing for 35 years. I just hate paying money to shops for stuff I can do myself. I have a 29 year old daughter in Long Beach and I have to keep her car running too. Technical training in automotive repair is my daily job here in San Diego. I am an Instructor aboard a Navy base here. 22 years military and 13 years Federal service as a Tech Rep. (technical representative) for the Navy / Marine Corps. Keep in touch! I love to hear from other Lexus owners. We have great cars, and together we can keep them running without getting STUNG by the MAN! Bye for now.
  8. Hello, If your battery is still charged in the morning, it is definitely NOT your alternator. Sad to say, it is probably your starter. I have a 99 GS400, and I did my starter already. I also did the starter on my brother-in-laws' 99 LS400 2 weeks ago. It starts out innocently enough. All you first get is a "click" when you turn the key. Lights, radio, horn all work. The other hint is, the lights don't dim when you turn the key. A dead battery would give you a NUMBER of clicks, AND your lights would dim, indicating low voltage. A BAD starter clicks only ONCE... if at all, and everything is still good, including the battery. You can verify that it is not the alternator by having that checked while the engine is running. The alternator should put out about 14.2 to 14. 8 Volts DC. The fact that you can start it the rest of the day is proof that the battery is staying up after the first start. Usually I had a problem in the early morning because it was cold then. As the problem gets worse, it will then refuse to start after it gets hot. The contacts in the solenoid are wearing out, but the coil is still good. Once it gets hot, you will have to wait until it cools off before it will start again. That can be a pain when you are in a hurry. It simply will NOT jump start. I told my brother in law about 6 months ago and he didn't believe me. He thought it was the ignition switch. Once he got stranded in the middle of the day, he became a believer and asked me to help him change it. He was clicking outside for 25 minutes sometimes before it finally started. He had already changed the battery, all the cables, and was getting an alternator when I told him to have it checked before replacing it...It was fine. To fix a worn out starter is major surgery for most people. The IUZFE 8 cylinder V8 engine has the starter mounted UNDER the intake manifold. That must be removed before you gain access to the starter. All 8 fuel injector electrical connectors, and all 8 spark plug coil connectors must be disconnected, and the fuel line to the rack has to be disconnected as well. The harness fits tight in there, so all this has to be disconnected to allow room for the intake to come out. Disconnect the fuel line on the rubber hose right near the drivers' fender inside. The rubber hose goes with the intake manifold when it comes out. to prevent disconnecting it at the fuel rack. That means new crush washers and other things. Take off the manifold in ONE PIECE instead of taking it apart in pieces. If you do that, you will need new gaskets to put the pieces together again. Word to the WISE. All vacuum lines must then be be removed. The throttle body comes away from the intake manifold, but is not removed from the car. Then remove all 10 intake manifold bolts, and lift the aluminum intake manifold straight up and out. It is HEAVY. there is a vacuum tank underneath. Do not drop it or throw it around once it comes out. Check all vacuum lines underneath and replace what is needed. Usually there is NOTHING to replace. Once the manifold is out, this exposes the starter out back close to the firewall and transmission. IT IS NOT TOO BAD IF YOU WANT TO DO THE WORK YOURSELF. There are tutorials on this website and others that show the procedure in pictures, and provides written text on how to do it. I did mine in 3 1/2 hours, but my brother-in-laws' LS had a few more connections to remove. The GS is much easier. It took all day to do the LS because I found other things that needed attention, and had to fetch parts on a Saturday. I finished on Sunday morning. I recommend that you get a TOYOTA REMANUFACTURED starter for LONG life. Chances are that original starter is in the car right now. At the dealership that starter is about $230.00 plus a $30.00 core until you return the old one for rebuild. You can buy it online from Lexus, but the price is about the same. MANY Toyota dealerships have a relationship with Lexus dealers and can get the starter for the same price. In California, we use CARSON TOYOTA in Carson, CA. Some Texas dealerships also offer the starter for this car. PLEASE NO AFTERMARKET STARTERS for the BEST performance. This means, Pep Boys, Schucks, Autozone and others. They'll give you another starter,, but look at what you have to go through again to replace it. Others work, but for HOW LONG? Toyota has the best rebuilt starters and the best warranty BAR NONE, plus they do it RIGHT and guarantee it. Chances of failure are practically NIL, since it is in essence the same starter that went in when the car was new. EVERYTHING is changed except for the outer case. Everything inside is changed. Everything is dipped and cleaned, then reassembled with new parts, including all hardware inside and out. It is JUST LIKE NEW. By the way, a NEW starter for this car is about $600.00 when you can find it. We ALL use remanufactured starters when it is time to change this beast. The dealership gets about $700.00 for the job including parts and labor, and an aftermarket shop may charge less. If you want a small shop to do it, make sure you get the Toyota part. I am mechanically inclined, so I always do mine myself. You will need: 1. Remanufactured starter 2. 2 Intake manifold gaskets...one for each head. No adhesives. They lift out and are replaced with new ones. Do NOT reuse the old ones, although I have heard that some folks do. I don't take the chance. 3. 2 water outlet gaskets for the back heater hose manifold assembly. The hoses are attached to a manifold crossover. This crossover connects both heads together, and it really gets in the way of the two bolts that hold the starter in place. Without removing this crossover, you have to be a contortionist, or fabricate a wrench that goes around the crossover. Just remove the part and life will be easy. Throw away the old gaskets, and use the new ones. They are metal gaskets on the base and rubber in the center. Again, no cleaning of the mating parts if Red Toyota antifreeze was used in the cooling system, and NO adhesive. They self seal when you bolt the crossover into place. Finally 4. 1 gallon of Red Toyota antifreeze / coolant. When the crossover manifold is removed, some coolant will be lost as the heater core drains out from inside the car. You can then see all the coolant in the head when looking inside the engine. Tioyota recommends changing this red stuff every 60,000 miles as a minimum. It is the BEST, and protects like no other. Please do not use GREEN coolant either as a mixture or a replacement for the red. It is a recipe for disaster. At Lexus, it is 32.00 a gallon, but at Toyota, it is about $19.00...go figure. Everything is more expensive at Lexus. I have part numbers if you need them. I KNOW this sounds weird when discussing a STARTER, but it is TRUE. Call around and ask a Lexus / Toyota dealership what a starter replacement will cost. Keep in touch, and I would be glad to help you in correspondence, and even post a few pictures if you want. I am just trying to save you a lot of frustration, troubleshooting costs and misdiagnosis, replacing other good parts, only to have to change the starter anyway. 9 years on one starter is great. You have gotten your money's worth out of that starter. I am in San Diego, and am available to chat. PM me and I will give you my cell if you have other questions. You can also reach me at jessie.ramsey@navy.mil Thanks again
  9. I've done 2 timing belts on 1999 GS400's in the last year. All you have to do is get a long breaker bar. It has to be long enough to touch the floor when the socket is attached to the bolt on the harmonic balancer. 1.Attach the socket to the bolt, and ensure the end is on the ground. The engine turns clockwise, so turn the engine to the right and leave the end of the breaker bar on the ground. Concrete is recommended, but it will work on dirt. 2. Disconnect the ECU-1B fuse to prevent the engine from STARTING. We want the engine to CRANK only. 3. BUMP the engine over lightly, and the bolt will loosen as soon as the end of the breaker bar strikes the ground. 4. Put THREADLOCKER on the bolt when re-installing the bolt after changing the timing belt. Use the strongest gun you can to install the bolt. I have never had a bolt come loose after installing it.
  10. You have a car with HID lamps, and the assembly has a motor that automatically levels the light in relationship to the level of the car. The lights undergo a "self-test" when the key is first turned on and the headlights are on. The lights "motor down" and then UP for a few seconds, and center themselves according to how level the car is. They keep from blinding oncoming traffic when there is a heavy load in the rear of the car, and it tries to compensate. Enjoy your HIDS...MANY folks would LOVE to have that feature.
  11. The BULB inside the switch is blown out. I changed my bulb recently. The light only comes on when the head lights are switched on. Changing it is relatively easy, and takes about 1/2 hour if you have removed the console before, and about 1 hour for everyone else. Remove the whole switch, and unscrew the LITTLE bulb under the bottom. Prepare to be RAPED by Lexus and Toyota on this bulb assembly. No one else has one, and they charged me $11.00 for one bulb. Thanks
  12. I also bought a used GS400 from out of state and had the same result. I bought mine from Arizona, paid the taxes, had it inspected, and then smogged. The NOX was the only thing high, but still not high enough to make it fail. Everything else was at zero, or very near it. I don't know what kind of numbers a California state car generates, so I can't compare. I called Lexus abouti t, and they said that as long as it did not turn on the "check engine" light, they could not fix it or even look at it under warranty. I wold have to pay, and they probably wouldn't find anything wrong anyway. It has been one year now, and there have been no ill effects. If there are carbon deposits on my pistons, I don't know about it. I have run every chemical cleaner I know of through the throttle body to clean it up, but it runs the same. I'd say quit worrying until there is a need to.
  13. Gary, Contact Lexus Corporate @ 1 800 255 3987, and ask for customer satisfaction. Lexus has been authorizing the replacement of the computer at no cost. The owners HAS to buy the keys though, but that is what you had to do anyway. Be sure to ask for customer satisfaction, and be nice.... Give it a try because it couldn't hurt. Have all your car's information at hand when you call. I bought my 99 GS4 from a "non-Lexus" dealership too, and Lexus still accommodated me. Thanks
  14. I have a 99 GS400, and I have not have this problem. Did they say what caused the blown fuse? They only blow if there is an overload (like a "short"). Please be careful, and watch out for this situation to crop up again. If it does, you have another problem. Take Care GSEREP1
  15. Hello, Above 5000 feet, the engine requires lower octane fuel because there is less internal cylinder pressure due to elevation, and less chance of detonation, or pinging. Less oxygen means the 0/2 sensors will have to compensate for the loss, and in turn, cause the computer to reduce the amount of fuel in the mixture. This will result in better gas mileage, even though overall power will be reduced. In most cases, higher octane fuel is not needed, and may be a waste of money. GSEREP1
  16. I appreciate the fact that you have an opinion on oils. You are certainly entitiled to express yourself. I hope you are using the oil you like in your vehicle. I certainly do. That is why there are so many different brands of oil out there. Most oils meet minimum specifications for engine performance. Most people don't keep their cars long enough to see the advantages of using synthetic oils. If you do not like using synthetic oils, so be it. I have had excellent success for over 30 years using these products, and I will continue to use them. I will also compare the internal condition of my engine to anyone's engine using conventional oil. If you like changing your oil and filters every 3 to 5000 miles instead of using oil analysis and changing it only when needed, be my guest. Just understand that there are people who think outside the box, and travel a slightly different road than you. You said that people drive their engines 500,000 miles on regular oil. Is this without a rebuild, or is this with 2 or 3 engine replacements? I know of no one to drive that distance using regular oil and has the data and pictures to prove it. Is it you? I CAN show you engines with 300 to 400 thousand miles using synthetic oils that when disassembled and measured, meet the specs for new parts. Just say the word. Synthetic oil provides significant advantages at ALL temperatures, both cold and hot. Where do you live? If the seasons change, most cars will see a temperature extreme..either cold ot hot. Plus if the car is driven in the city exclusively, the oil is subjected to even more stress, due to moisture and condensation formation. these engines never come up to operating temperature. Check out the oil filler cap on may city-driven cars using regular oil, and you will find foam and sludge buildup. There IS a difference my friend, whether you believe it or not. Most people choose not to use synthetics strictly from a financial standpoint...they say it costs too much. As the old guy used to say on an old commercial.."you can pay me now, or you can pay me later". I rebuild engines for a living, and I love it when I see a Pennzoil motor come in for overhaul. If everyone used synthetics, my pockets would be a lot thinner. The reason Toyota and other manufacturers want you to use regular oils is that they want you to buy another car every few years. It is not to their advantage to recommend the best EXCEPT in extreme situations, or certain applications like Mercedes, Corvettes, and some BMW specialty cars that ONLY recommend synthetics, or the warranty will be voided. People who spend large sums of money for their cars want better oil than standard Tier 2 oils available in America. Oils used overseas, and good synthetic oils are Tier 1 oils, and do NOT have to be changed every 3000 miles...Talk about "oilwhores"! That term should be used for companies like OILCHANGERS AND JIFFY-LUBE, who brainwash millions of people to come see them every 3000 miles. They use the cheapest bulk oils, and people keep coming back for more. This all magnifies our dependence on foreign oil, because we waste so much valuable crude. So many turbocharged cars have failed because the cheap regular oil cokes in the oil passages, and starves the bearings of oil.....oh well. Maybe I am just spouting hot air to some folks, so I will quit while I am ahead....NUFF SAID!!
  17. I appreciate the fact that you have an opinion on oils. You are certainly entitiled to express yourself. I hope you are using the oil you like in your vehicle. I certainly do. That is why there are so many different brands of oil out there. Most oils meet minimum specifications for engine performance. Most people don't keep their cars long enough to see the advantages of using synthetic oils. If you do not like using synthetic oils, so be it. I have had excellent success for over 30 years using these products, and I will continue to use them. I will also compare the internal condition of my engine to anyone's engine using conventional oil. If you like changing your oil and filters every 3 to 5000 miles instead of using oil analysis and changing it only when needed, be my guest. Just understand that there are people who thnk outside the box, and travel a slightly different road than you. You said that people drive their engines 500,000 miles on regular oil. Is this without a rebuild, or is this with 2 or 3 engine replacements? I know of no one to drive that distance using regular oil and has the data and pictures to prove it. Synthetic oil provides significant advantages at ALL temperatures, both cold and hot. Where do you live? If the seasons change, most cars will see a temperature extreme..either cold ot hot. Plus if the car is driven in the city, the oil is subjected to even more stress due to moisture and condensation formation because the car never comes up to operating temperature. Check out the oil filler cap on may city-driven cars using regular oil, and you will find foam and sludge buildup. There IS a difference my friend, whether you believe it or not. Most people choose not to use synthetics strictly from a financial standpoint...they say it costs too much. As the old guy used to say on an old commercial.."you can pay me now, or you can pay me later". I rebuild engines for a living, and I love it when I see a Pennzoil motor come in for overhaul. If everyone used synthetics, my pockets would be a lot thinner. The reason Toyota and other manufacturers want you to use regular oils is that they want you to buy another car every few years. It is not to their advantage to recommend the best EXCEPT in extreme situations, or certain applications like Mercedes, Corvettes, and some BMW specialty cars that ONLY recommend synthetics, or the warranty will be voided. That's good enough for me. So many turbocharged cars have failed because the cheap regular oil cokes in the oil passages, and starves the bearings of oil.....oh well. Maybe I am just spouting hot air to some folks, so I will quit while I am ahead....NUFF SAID!!
  18. I appreciate the fact that you have an opinion on oils. You are certainly entitiled to express yourself. I hope you are using the oil you like in your vehicle. I certainly do. That is why there are so many different brands of oil out there. Most oils meet minimum specifications for engine performance. Most people don't keep their cars long enough to see the advantages of using synthetic oils. If you do not like using synthetic oils, so be it. I have had excellent success for over 30 years using these products, and I will continue to use them. I will also compare the internal condition of my engine to anyone's engine using conventional oil. If you like changing your oil and filters every 3 to 5000 miles instead of using oil analysis and changing it only when needed, be my guest. Just understand that there are people who thnk outside the box, and travel a slightly different road than you. You said that people drive their engines 500,000 miles on regular oil. Is this without a rebuild, or is this with 2 or 3 engine replacements? I know of no one to drive that distance using regular oil and has the data and pictures to prove it. Synthetic oil provides significant advantages at ALL temperatures, both cold and hot. Where do you live? If the seasons change, most cars will see a temperature extreme..either cold ot hot. Plus if the car is driven in the city, the oil is subjected to even more stress due to moisture and condensation formation because the car never comes up to operating temperature. Check out the oil filler cap on may city-driven cars using regular oil, and you will find foam and sludge buildup. There IS a difference my friend, whether you believe it or not. Most people choose not to use synthetics strictly from a financial standpoint...they say it costs too much. As the old guy used to say on an old commercial.."you can pay me now, or you can pay me later". I rebuild engines for a living, and I love it when I see a Pennzoil motor come in for overhaul. If everyone used synthetics, my pockets would be a lot thinner. NUFF SAID
  19. Carson Toyota is THE place for Lexus parts in California. I also have a 99 GS4, and I recently purchased a replacement mirror from them. I did not replace the outer shell...(no need to do that unless the color coded shell is damaged). The mirror snaps right out from the bottom lip, and rolls up to the top and falls down. Installation is the opposite, as it hooks in the top, and rolls down to snap in the middle and bottom. I wrote an article with pictures on it in ClubLexus a few months back. The dealer wanted $450.00 for the entire mirror assembly, and Carson Toyota is at least $100.00 less than that. I paid a little over $200.00 for the mirror/heating element separately. The install was 3 to 4 minutes..TOPS, including removing the old one. I had a burned up defrost element, but everyting else was fine. You have to specify if you have memory seats and mirrors or not. It makes a difference. You will need your color code if you decide to replace the entire mirror assembly, as they come pre-painted from the factory. Give Steve Ganz a call at: 1800 908-6968. Tell him you read LexusOwners Club or ClubLexus, and he will give you a good price. Good luck, GSEREP1
  20. I agree wholeheartedly. NOW I am using the AMSOIL Universal Transmission fluid in my power steering. That often gets overlooked, and many cars are still driving around with the original power steering fluid. That is a sure-fire recipe for having to replace a rack and pinion gearbox, and a power steering pump in the future. The Lexus is famous for having the power steering pump go out down the road, and they are NOT cheap. I changed my fluid, and the difference is like night and day. Now I have AMSOIL 5W-30 engine oil, Amsoil Universal Transmission fluid in the transmission and power steering, and the Amsoil 75W-90 differential oil in the rear end. Next is the Amsoil Air filter, and the AMSOIL BMK-11 or 13 full flow oil filter bypass system, and a Hayden transmission cooler to go along with the stock cooler in the radiator. It should be pretty good after all of that. GSEREP1
  21. Overfilling the transmission will cause problems in the long run. The fluid will "aerate" or take on air, and eventually cause a lubrication problem. The result will be a worn transmission. Remember, it only takes a pint to raise the level from LOW to FULL. Also: what temperature are you checking the fluid at? It will be lower when the fluid is cold, and higher when warm. The engine should be running, and if you check it cold, the level will be in the "crosshairs" between low and full. If the level shows above FULL when the car is cold, it is definitely overfilled. The fluid expands everytime it gets warm, and contracts when it cools. fluid temperature is very important factor to consider to get the fluid level right. MANY transmissions fail because of improper fluid level....both low and overfilled alike. Thanks GSEREP1
  22. Hello, I assume that you have a GS300 or 400 right? If so, then the only filter you have is a "screen" that can be cleaned, not replaced. The only time I would replace that screen would be if the screen is damaged or has a big hole in it. If the transmission fluid is changed regularly, cleaning that screen should not be necessary. Thanks, GSEREP1
  23. Hello, I talked to a service advisor at my Lexus dealership and they said that you should use Toyota Type T-II fluid ONLY. However, this fluid has been updated to the Toyota Type T-IV, and he said it was better for the old cars than the TYPE II it replaced. He said to PLEASE do NOT use ANY kind of DEXRON. This stuff is available at the Toyota or Lexus dealership. If you REALLY want to protect that transmission, please consider using a synthetic fluid like Mobil 1 or even better, AMSOIL Universal Transmission fluid. They mix with standard fluids. Try flushing all the old stuff out by draining the pan and filling it back up. Drive for a bit, and drain again. This gets the old fluid out of the torque converter. 2 or 3 flushes, and you should have it all out...or you could pay big bucks and have the transmission power flushed at a service facility like Pep Boys. Thanks a lot, GSEREP1
  24. From what I understand, the stock Iridium spark plugs are supposed to be replaced at 90.000 miles, vice 120,000 miles. I have been told that even though it says to "check" the plugs at 90,000 miles, they really should be replaced then. Has anyone gone beyond 90,000 miles on the plugs, and what was the result? GSEREP1
  25. Hello GS430 wannabe, To get an idea of what GS-400 and 430's are selling for nationwide, I would suggest that you try: http://www.autotrader.com This is where I found my car. You can search the entire country for a car to suit your fancy. Just my $.02 Respectfully, GSEREP1
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership