UCF3

Ah, the guy sold his car yesterday. Anybody know of another white coloured SC300 Manual being sold?

You guys never told me how far the doors are supposed to open? I did want to know that the most.

That was going to be my stategy anyway. Now i have to adjust my strategy to accomodate the doors. There are other problems that will need to be fixed too.

How mych less do you think i should charge this guy?

That helps with the basic understanding on what needs to be done and the average cost. You mentioned 95 or earlier. Won't the later ones work with the old transmission? I would like to get the 6speed since it's available, and in the US. Easier cost wise. The 6speed is also better for the twin since road racing wise, the extra gear will help moderate speed for the way I dirve. thanks for the input.

Was there anything new you had to add to the SC300 for the Supra TT conversion? Specifically near the chassy, moving some rods or pipes, anything that prevented you from making a straight drop? By the way, which year Supra did you get, and what speed did you get it in? I'm curious since there is a 1992 SC300 that I plan to purchase soon, and the conversion is on my list of things to do to this car. Finally, how much did it cost you for the conversion? thanks

To all: Wanted to know how far do the doors of the SC300's span? I'm looking at this car, and the current owner is saying that's how far they span. I swear to god, it looked like it was 35-40 degrees. Also, the drivers side door sounds like it's hitting the base before slumming shut. Any advice?

I think you're missing the one nut inside the fender well. If you pull back the inner plastic fender cover you can reach inside the fender and pull out a single 10mm nut (I'm pretty sure that's the right size) and the headlight will come right out... Just make sure you pull out the headlight slowly, it's easy to scratch the top of the front bumper area with the headlight. When you actually get the light out, it is possible to pull the whole front lens off the light assembly, but you will need a heat gun and lots of time. I suggest heating the edge of the housing on the low setting on a heatgun and gently pull the housing apart. I've done it before and trust me it's not any fun. Well good luck. Scott reLEXin247 Driver Registered: Feb 2001 Location: Mary Esther, FL Posts: 73 ------- I used standard clear silicone to reseal the lights and haven't had any problems with moisture... Also while i was inside the light I polished the inside of the lens with plexi polish. it made the lights look brand new. It took me about 3 hours per light to take out, take apart, polish, reseal, and reinstall. __________________ Scott 1992 SC400 Chamelon Paint, 18" Momos, Alpine CVA-1005, DVA5205, SEA8081 ------- I got the unit out... Inside the fender well it's actually 2 nuts and they are 10mm as you said. FYI use an extension on your ratchet to break the nuts, then use your hand to screw off the nuts... it's simpler. As a precaution I placed a towel under the lamp to prevent scratching referred too above... My heat gun does not have a low setting, therefore I'm waiting to buy one in the morn with a low setting, so I will not melt anything else!!! Any other suggestion, I'm opened!!! __________________ Pics of my Lexus SC4 & VW 'custom' Karmann Ghia... http://photos.yahoo.com/the_ikon1911 The Ikon ClubLexus Paid Member Registered: Feb 2001 Location: Posts: 2053 ******ABOVE POSTS are from: The Ikon of CL {AWJ} (October 2, 2002) ******* *****ALL REFERENCES HAVE BEEN ESTABLISHED to Protect against FRAUD.****** --------------------------------------------------------------- I've helped cleaning out many headlights for local supras down here in SoCal. The discoloration you see is inside the headlights usally...in some cases outside only. The procedure requires popping your lights into the oven for about 5 minutes at low temperature (be careful or you will damage the light), then removing the plastic casing. From there, you need to polish the plastic with a good plastic polish and scratch remover. Using the right product is important, you don't want to be leaving scratches and nicks on the plastic surface. Use a product such as Novus, Plexus, or Meguiar's plastic cleaner/conditioner. You will certainly want to use Novus, as it will leave the final surface very clean and shiny. A high speed polisher will save you a lot of time and effort. Although, it can be done by hand and some elbow grease. Websites that carry the Novus and Plexus are listed below. You can also find them at other websites by doing a search for 'novus plastic cleaner' or 'plexus plastic cleaner.' Novus: http://www.noscratch.com/novus/form.shtml Plexus: http://www.plexusplasticcleaner.com/ Silicone/RTV sealant: can be bought at local car parts stores for about $3 in a small tube. Sand paper: use 2000Grit paper, and wetsand the outside of the headlights using a soapy water solution. Your headlights will be crystal clear and smooth. Also, follow up by buffing the sanded surface with the plastic polish/cleaner. Oven Temperature: about 175-200F for about 5-10 mins, depending on the actual temperature of the oven. Leave the headlights in there until they are somewhat warm to the touch. Start at one end of the headlight, and use a dull object such as a butter knife of dull screwdriver to separate the headlights. Quote from: http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/headlights/index.html (October 2, 2002) Last edited by The Ikon on 04-12-01 at 00:00 __________________ Scott 1992 SC400 *****ALL REFERENCES HAVE BEEN PASTED TO PROTECT AGAINST FRAUD.***** ---------------------------------------------------------- I'm leaving these instructions from the other Websites, so that we have a reference on this Forum. This way, we don't have to keep going to another forum for instructions on how to disassemble this Lexus/Toyota FLAW.

I think thier cars are experiencing something different. It sounds like there is some new power source causing this problem. I'm experiencing what you're talkiing about on my LS. My problem is the left side(drivers) tail cluster has one light that doesn't want to activate when the brakes are online, but when the parking lights are active, it comes on. One of the technicians at Lexus here was saying, I have to replace the bulb, but I don't exactly believe his diagnosis, since the light actually works. I feel it's some connection from brake electric to the light cluster that's not connected or seated correctly causing the problem. Do you believe a different bulb will do the trick? If so, I might try it out. Let me know if it will actually work. thanks To Quickturbo & Gsackett, wondering if you've had an opportunity to check out the fuse box. I've heard if a car has a new power source like a battery or even another component like a new aftermarket stereo, this might cause the ECU to send the wrong signals. Of course, this was on a Nissan. Toyota might have payed some attention to this problem. Let me know if you've tried out that scenerio.

You guys own SC's. Call the Lexus 800 number and complain about the this major manufacturer's flaw. Maybe they might respond back by making new stronger assemblys. I tried calling them earlier, but the guy says there haven't been any complaints about this problem. On another note, I wonder if replacing the lense cover with a glass lense would work? If anybody knows where the leak is coming from, that would help me greatly too. thanks

To All: I would like to get some cheap prices for a replacement Gauge Cluster. I'm planning to get a 92 300 5sp, and would appreciate any feedback on where to get a deal from. Junk Yards are not my specialty, since it's kind of hard for me to find a close to wrecked SC300 near me. Does anyone know why the SC's headlights leak, and get discoloured? Thanks

here is a link where some that I know has updated it with JDM and Non JDM body kits. Count on spending about $3-4k on them. http://www.cureline.net/lex/photos/other_l...s_celsors_1.htm enjoy :D

You might want to try contacting Steve Gantz @ Carson Toyota. He may be able to get one, from here or Japan. gonzo4u@earthlink.net 1 800-908-6968 Ext. 2381 If you can, let us know. I would appreciate some new information to share with the rest of the Forum. Happy trailing

To all: Wanted to know if anyone had converted the SC400 to the 2JZGETT engine from the Supra Turbo? I'm interested in finding out what modifications will be necessary in the engine bay and transmission bay for the conversion.

Sorry, I don't know who can work on the tac/speedo for you. You could try Mikado Industries. Their address and phone number is in this forum, LS400/430-clock/climate. It's the one with many replies and views. Oh let me know if they can do it. It would be nice to know that too.

Which Gauge cluster are you talking about? Center console or Speed/Tac?

You might need to get a newer version of the Nav Disc. Check with you local dealer or call the Lexus hotline.

Yup, to the question about repair performed where. Work was pretty good. I had them change the colour of my display lights, and LCD screens to a Blueish/Green. The cost of $295 includes shipping and handling, overnight express. They say, however you send it to them, they will use the same type of shipping. I did overnight, so they did the same. They only took a day and a half. In order to take our the display, you need a flat head screwdriver. The top part of the vents, take your flat head driver, and pry it open. Once you have it moving, pull it forward, and lift it upwards-towards the windshield. There is a plug with a lever pointing towards you-similar to how a RJ45 Ethernet plug/connected is. Push it down, and start wobbling the plug loose. Next is the Ashtray. You might want to shift the gear into 1 or 2 at this time. Use a cloth or tape to cover your flat head screw driver, and again,pry it from the base , and then from the top. There should be at least one plug there, or at most two more, depending on whether you have heated seats. Once you have that done, you'll find two philips head screws on the top side-where the vents sat, and another two where the ashtray was. unscrew them, and separate the screws from the brackets. Pull the Rack out, and unscrew the unit out. To separate the plug for the climate control, you will need to lift a clip looking thing up, and push a rectangular shaped botton down, and wobble the connector. Hope this works for you.

Gee, it looks the same to me. THe only difference between what you shared with us is a street name difference. I didn't have any problems with the address. USPS knew exactly where to find them.

You could attempt to contact Mikado corporation, and ask them if they would sell you the LCD screens,a nd bulbs. check out the forum marked Climate/Clock. I have their address and phone number.

It sounds like a sensor or two might be going bad. I know, if one sensor in the engine goes bad, or has a loose connection, this might happen. Otherwise I really don't know.

You serious? I thought you knew :?:

You can take this Unit out of the car yourself. Don't pay for the labour since they are charging $500 Canadian(assuming) for a reman part. if you want me to direct you on how to do it, let me know.

Wanted to let you know that I found someone else, who definitely remans. LCD displays, for the LS400. I gave them a call, earlier today, and they said they can do it, for 295. Give them a call and make sure that they can do it, just in case the same issue comes up as the last dead end i sent you into. Mikado rebuilds the LCD display for $295. It is easy to replace and you need to send in old unit. Mikado eng. 1435 Hunt Ave. S. San Francisco 94080 (650)615-9966

Know anyone who's tried to put a 4.3 in the 4.0's?