UCF3

It could be the Drive shaft, but I'm leaning towards a poor quality Clutch. I burned through my ACT clutch within a year, with low pressure driving. I replaced it with a Stock Toyota and didn't have the problem. I don't think I'll be able to help you with this as much. I've never had this problem before. Hopefully someone else will stop by to perhaps help you. If I was to guess, I'd opt to replace the transmission fluid first, before you replace the transmission. also see if you can switch the flywheel. a new one might be needed. Keep me in the loop on what you find.

It sounds like it's a good car. Have you inspected it thoroughly? We have some tips that we've posted over the years on what to look for before and after you buy the car. have you had the opportunity to review them?

It sounds like the fuel injector, the Pressure that you haven't been able to test yet, or maybe something as simple as the Starter motor. did you hear the crank?

I'm thinking it's an electrical issue, but can't really tell you exactly what it is. Take the EFI relay off, and troubleshoot by engine electricals. Give us some more details on the start-up. Is this a recent occurance? when you're in ACC-mode and turn, does it click, display has everything lit up? Test your battery with another Toyota, or V6 and Higher Engines. Thoroughly clean your Terminals. Hit your starter or another part of the engine to see if it starts. If you've already done them. Check you spark plugs and cables for rot. You can also test the electrics to your Fuel pump; if they come clean, check underneath the car for the Fuel Filter. I have come across instances when the fuel filters was malfunctioning after the car was rear ended. Let us know what else have to done so far.

Under the car, just in front of the driver side rear wheel are you sure its due to fuel,as there is a fuel ecu that fails in normal run mode but ok in start up mode , which means the car will start but almost immediatly stop. That's a good point. It might be something else all together, and usually bad fuel will hurt the Piston Rings, Fuel Injector, and the pump itself. Can you provide us with some more details on what happens when you try to start your car up?

first check the level of the fluid.top up and bleed if required. if your p/s pump is starting to make noises then it is coming to the end of its life especially if it is the original, there is a refubishment kit available for it, but it may be beyond an amateur to fit without workshop facilities,however taking the old pump off and replacing it is not difficult, but it is imperative that the air is bled out of the system after refilling the system with fluid, this can be done by running the engine and taking the steering from lock to lock at least twenty times or untill all the minute bubbles stop appearing. I appreciate your advice. I'll give it a go this week and let you know how it turns out. I'd suggest buying a Toyota PSP. They last longer and are warrantied.

Before you try something new, go completely stock Toyota. OEM Clutch, replace the Rear main Seal, and use Toyota Synthetic transmission fluid. It also sounds like you're killing the transmission, too many burn-outs perhaps? Apply less pressure to the clutch and see if it lasts longer than 5,000 miles.

So how do you know it needs control arm bushings?

You could always re-build the Stock Head unit. there are a few companies that specialize with Nakamichi. So why weren't the guys @ Circuit City able to put it all together? I believe we've discussed this issue in the past, and a number of members have put in Pioneer, Alpine, SONY head units where the Stock Nakamichi belongs. Search the forum.

that's good. I am kind of curious to see if anyone has compared the Cone vs the BFI though, and saw a huge difference between the two.

Ok, Now that I figured out my dumb A$$ mistake, I had put the coil wire on the 7 plug position and the 7 on the coil, needless to say the coil was bad! Replaced and it started up and ran like a champ, now though it is back to where it was and runs great for a few miles, then it runs rough in low RPM, when I open it up and it catches up it runs awesome. It does seem to run fine when it is in park and like I said it started out fine in drive but then started running worse when it warmed up. Any ideas on that one? I haven't read this post in a while, but have you replaced all your Plugs, wires, and rotor? Oh, did you notice any moisture build-up in the coil chamber?

Oh, that's a toss up, that only you can make. If you're comparing an 06Accord vs 95-99 SC3 you're comparing apples to oranges. The SC is an enthusiasts dream car vs the Accord a family mover-and-pusher. It can be expensive to maintain compared to the other, but you have to ask yourself if this is your primary car or secondary(spare/fun) car, and can you afford to take it to a real mechanic if needed?

Nah, you can still wash your engine. Just cover up the essential parts, distributor, plug chambers, pretty much anything electrical. You can run the engine while you're spraying and washing the engine bay.

Welcome. Does your stock lighting cables work? Most of the time when you buy junk yard or swap meet parts, they just cut the cables thinking you have the stock cables. Take a look at the back of the housing and see if the stock cable sockets will fit.

That's kind of unusual. I haven't come across an instance when both switches weren't working. Don't know the interior colour of your SC but try this link out Ebay-Part and try to eliminate that switch, the window motor regulator and the window itself. I still think it;s the Window motor regulator.

Welcome Gary. I thought it would be the MAF, but you mentioned that. It could be the TPS, but that has a different code. What type of Plugs and plug wires do they have, OEM, Denso, Bosch? ANy chance something is stuck in the Intake?

Very nice. yeah, i'll admit they're growing on me. I am kind off curious to why it's restrictive. The lense cover is clear so I'm confused. The only difference I can think-off would be a protective film on the stock lense making it a bit restrictive. How about the Aftermarket; do they feel like quality, other than the screw issue? BTW: what happened to your corner-lights? tint, or did you just remove them completely?

I believe so. I paid a little bit over $500 for the job with my Toyota tech, and paid $150 in parts, new EGR sensor, and the labour to clean out the sute from pipes. dealer or someone else? How much was the Window Control Switch by itself?

I understand what you mean but there were other things i didnt like about the original headlights, including the main lense itself. It just looks outdated, and is very restrictive on light flow. Not to mention, with these headlights i can use H1 bulbs, and super high output HID setups. Im big on lots of light when i drive at night, (esp while speeding B) :D ) Oh, perfectly understandable. I think HIDs should be used by all cars. They're brighter and go far. Don't get me wrong, I don't hate the ones you have on now, I consider them a bit on the cheap end otherwise i would have installed them on my SC when I first found them on ebay. To me, the Clearcorners are jewel-like and will probably going to be brighter. So what's wrong with the stock ones? you mentioned they're restrictive. I think you should consider getting HID High Beams. They'll work better while you're driving down those blacked-out streets better, and it has a wider spectrum so that you can avoid the deer population.

305Pimpc: we really don't use capital letters on the forum. So for future posts please be mindful of others and take the Caps Lock off.

UCF# would you know where to buy a new regulator?? besides the dealer?? or is $150 from dealer?? Mine was from the dealer, but that was almost 8 years ago. you can also try Keystone, and Carparts.com(call them). I've had good experiences with them. Wow, i guess the parts have gone up in price, $200s. What year's your SC?

how much throttle are you applying?

Was the filter inside the bell-housing?

It should be after the intake manifold and should be similar to : http://www2.partstrain.com/store/?Ntt=Knoc...56%204294966989

Yeah, to me it sounds like the spark plugs have a moisture buildup in it. Try to blow it with some compressed air and see it does the trick. If not consider replacing your spark plugs and spark-plug wires. it sounds like the seals around the cables are worn.