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Bob Seery

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Everything posted by Bob Seery

  1. There's a seller on ebay called liftstrutstore. I've purchased from him 3 times--both the hood and tailgate struts on the RX350 and the tailgate on my Honda Pilot. They all work great and I think I paid like $24 a pair. If you do it yourself (it's easy) make sure to prop it open with something stout that wont slip--it's heavier than it looks (especially the tailgate). Do one side at a time. Just pop them off with a flat screwdriver. Wrap the screwdriver in a layer of duct tape if you are worried about scratches. Also, put a rag over the back of the strut--when they pop off they can fly off there pretty fast.
  2. Indeed! But just to clarify, The stock cooler line has a rubber section in it--that is the part that started leaking. The replacement is all steel. It has a corrugated section of steel tubing (all one piece) where the rubber section was on the original part. So now that is is all steel, it should last a good long time.
  3. I use an OBD code reader in all my cars often. I'm a geek about stuff like O2 sensor voltages and ignition trim . I also have had Allstate's OBD reader in my Lexus. I have never seen this behavior. I suspect you have a bad unit from progressive. Have them send you a new one.
  4. I've had luck doing this: Open the door manually. Close the door manually. Press and hold the door button on the dash by the driver's side. Most times it will beep and start working. If it doesn't work, try it again. There is a section in the owners manual about resetting it, in case a 2015 procedure is different than a 2010.
  5. It is what the admin said above. It attaches to the inside part of the liftgate. It fills the gap between the roll-out cargo cover and the door. It is a bit fiddly to replace it... look at the liftgate just below the window and you will 4 attachment points. As the diagram indicates, you sort of "hook" into the inner two points with the panel angled down, away from the gate. then you lever the panel up to level with your hands close to the outer attachment points. Push up there until it snaps into place. I usually do this standing at the rear bumper facing away from the car, looking up at the gate.
  6. Hello, I just want to warn fellow RX350 owners of a dangerous problem they may potentially have. The other night I was almost home when I smelled oil burning. I got home and found the whole front of the engine and underside of the passenger side of the car covered in oil. I feared the worst. Had it towed to Lexus. Turns out it was an oil cooler line that had ruptured. ALL your oil goes through it. The factory line (on a 2010 at least) is rubber. The replacement is steel. (p/n 15757-31020) I asked if there was a recall, but was told that there was no recall, but "it's something we recommend when we have the car in for other service". I do most of my own service, so I was never told this... So, if you have not had this cooler line replaced yet, have it done asap (or at the very least inspected). If I were further from home the results could have been much worse. RX350 has 98,000 miles on it, has had all recommended service and been garaged.. The whole job with the line, gaskets and new oil was $940.
  7. I was able to get my Lexus dealer to remove the dealer remote start feature for free and refund me $375. (Key item in your argument, "I believe that this 'remote start' was misrepresented to me at the time of sale, in that it does not perform at the range of all other 'remote' starters".) I then had a local aftermarket installer install and Astrostart 5224. It works very well. 1 mile line-of sight range. Still kills the engine when you grab the handle--I'm told that there is no way around this because of the smartkey/pushbutton start. I don't find it that annoying so I am not complaining. The remote lock/unlock and tailgate lift all work as well. I paid ~$700 including 2 two-way transmitters.
  8. It's not lifter noise. All FI cars I have seen have it (cheap or expensive). It is simply a matter of the ignition computer modifying the timing and firing the injectors for maximum fuel flow. Since the incoming air is cold, fuel will not atomize as well as it would with warm air. To compensate for this, the fuel mixture is enrichened. The atomization rate is still reduced, but since there is more fuel, enough atomizes to allow the engine to start and run smoothly. In carbureted engines, this is accomplished with a choke. In TBI engines, a cold-start injector is sometimes used. In MPFI engines, the injectors are fired harder. The computer also modifies the timing (as it often does for other reasons). Try not to let is annoy you. Marvel at the sophistication of the system that is overcoming the physical difficulties of igniting gasoline with freezing air. Look on the bright side--the engine is running! Turn on the radio. Turn up the seat heaters. The heat will be cranking any second now...... I'm not diminishing your complaint. Just pointing out that all cars have the noise, so it might not be effective to complain about it.....
  9. Did they charge for the firmware upgrade, or was it considered a warranty issue? Mine stopped working altogether since the last iPhone software update. Does yours still work? Thanks No charge. But later they called and asked if I had a letter from corporate. Luckily, I had opened a case with corporate and they had told me to go to the dealer and get the upgrade and that it would be free. I told the dealer to check with corporate since I had a case open with them and I've not heard any more about it. I have the new iphone software installed and everything is working. I have tested iPod Touch 2G, iPhone 4, iPod Tough 4G, and all are working. The new iPhone 4.2.1 might even be working better than before.
  10. I went to my dealer and had them install a firmware upgrade that fixed this problem. I have heard that f/w above level 3357 is fixed. They put 335A on my vehicle. Bob 2010 RX350
  11. I just had the dealer install the firmware upgrade. I had 3350 on the car and was expecting to have 3357 installed. I checked it after they were finished and it now reads 335A. I did some quick testing with an iPod Touch and the scrolling problem appears to be fixed. Bob 2010 Rx350
  12. 212 views and no replies? People aren't being very helpful. I'll try.... I'm assuming you have the latest Shuffle, with the control button on the headphone cord. This presents a little problem since it has no controls on the device. You'll need an adapter to provide the control functions without the headphones. Belkin F8Z452 or similar will do the trick. Also, you'll need a cable that goes from male 1/8" stereo plug to male 1/8" stereo plug. You can get that cable at Radio Shack, Best Buy, Fry's, your local electronic store or online at about a million places. You will not be able to 'control' the player via the NAV unit, but you will control the player locally with the Belkin adapter. If your Shuffle is not the new one with the headphone controls, then you don't need the Belkin adapter--just the male-to-male cable. Either way, you'll plug that into the player and then into the AUX plug in the center console (under the armrest, under the bucket). Set the car audio to AUX, adjust the volume on the car audio and the shuffle until you can hear it play. Good luck. Bob
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