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Everything posted by donbryce
http://manualspace.com/toyota-lexus-es-300-1993-factory-service-manual.htm Find the guage cluster removal and disassembly instructions. There are several screws that double as mounting screws and electrical contacts. My tach was missing a screw from a PO's botched attempt to upgrade the backlight bulbs. Yours may have a loose or missing one. If not this, then look for a wiring issue.
I'm thinking now that it's the A/C being on that causes the idle to go up and down. It idles fine if A/C is on and shift is in P or N, or if A/C is off and shift is in any gear or P. Does anyone have a suggestion what to check, or can explain how the A/C 'on' affects idle speed?
I've only had this car for a few months, but it has always started right up and idles high at first during warm-up, then settles down to about 700 rpm or so. If I then put it in drive, the idle will hunt or surge up and down between 700 - 1000, especially noticable at a stop light. If I put it in neutral, it settles down to 700 immediately and doesn't start hunting again until put in drive. Having the A/C on doesn't seem to affect this. Occasionally, it will settle down to about 700 when in gear, very briefly, then start the surging again. Does anyone have any ideas what would likely be the
OK, problem solved (I think). I found 2 broken wires in the harness leading into the driver's door, which explained why the driver's outside power mirror didn't work, and why the master door lock button wouldn't lock, only unlock, the doors. While in there, I double checked and re-cleaned the trunk switch/button, and checked the wire for continuity to the harness plug. All good. I then held the door button down and pushed the glove box button out (off) and in again (on). I noticed that as long as the glove box button was held in tight with finger pressure, the door button worked every time,
I just bought this car about a month ago. About a week after getting it, I pushed the trunk release switch on the door and the switch fell inside the door, so I removed the door panel and secured it with a piece of aluminum bracket. It's now very secure. While it was out, I took the switch apart and cleaned up the contacts for the trunk release, tested it and it opened the trunk every time (while plugged into the harness, out of the door). The in glovebox switch seems to work OK, cutting power to the door switch when out and connecting when in. However, 99% of the time the trunk latch won't re
No signal from the ignitor, or whatever it's called that it gets it's pulse from, or as in my case, a problem in the cluster itself. I just got the car 3 days ago (93 es300) from a family that had a high school student 'practising' his auto skills by trying to change the cluster backlight bulbs. In the re-assembly process, he forgot 1 of the 3 screws that looks like they just hold he circuit board to the housing. Actually, they are also electrical contacts, the missing 1 was for the tach. I luckily had a same size screw on hand, which brought it back to life. You might check this, a loose scre