donbryce

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About donbryce

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  • Lexus Model
    es300
  1. http://manualspace.com/toyota-lexus-es-300-1993-factory-service-manual.htm Find the guage cluster removal and disassembly instructions. There are several screws that double as mounting screws and electrical contacts. My tach was missing a screw from a PO's botched attempt to upgrade the backlight bulbs. Yours may have a loose or missing one. If not this, then look for a wiring issue.
  2. I'm thinking now that it's the A/C being on that causes the idle to go up and down. It idles fine if A/C is on and shift is in P or N, or if A/C is off and shift is in any gear or P. Does anyone have a suggestion what to check, or can explain how the A/C 'on' affects idle speed?
  3. I've only had this car for a few months, but it has always started right up and idles high at first during warm-up, then settles down to about 700 rpm or so. If I then put it in drive, the idle will hunt or surge up and down between 700 - 1000, especially noticable at a stop light. If I put it in neutral, it settles down to 700 immediately and doesn't start hunting again until put in drive. Having the A/C on doesn't seem to affect this. Occasionally, it will settle down to about 700 when in gear, very briefly, then start the surging again. Does anyone have any ideas what would likely be the source of this? I'm thinking the ECU is getting a false or inconsistent signal from something and trying to compensate....but why only when in gear?
  4. OK, problem solved (I think). I found 2 broken wires in the harness leading into the driver's door, which explained why the driver's outside power mirror didn't work, and why the master door lock button wouldn't lock, only unlock, the doors. While in there, I double checked and re-cleaned the trunk switch/button, and checked the wire for continuity to the harness plug. All good. I then held the door button down and pushed the glove box button out (off) and in again (on). I noticed that as long as the glove box button was held in tight with finger pressure, the door button worked every time, but it would fail if the glove box button was just set to the 'on' position. So I removed the glove box switch, disassembled it and bent the 2 contact lugs slightly upward. The design of this switch relies on the slight spring pressure of the button assembly contact bar on both of these lugs, not a great way to go IMO. If this had failed to fix the problem, I'd just put in a jumper to permenantly allow the door button to always trip the trunk lid. I know the intent is to push the switch off and lock the glovebox to prevent the valet from getting into the trunk. Myself, the last time I experienced valet parking was on a holiday in Miami 30 years ago. Oh, one last note....I got a Compustar remote (1WAMR-1600) with the car, but it didn't work to pop the trunk. After hours of searching, I finally found the installation manual for the remote ECU (CM5200), which also had a nice wiring pin-out label right on it. I scrounged up a tiny pin connector out of an old VCR and connected it to the wire from the door switch, which now allows me to use the remote to pop the trunk. Woo-Hoo
  5. I just bought this car about a month ago. About a week after getting it, I pushed the trunk release switch on the door and the switch fell inside the door, so I removed the door panel and secured it with a piece of aluminum bracket. It's now very secure. While it was out, I took the switch apart and cleaned up the contacts for the trunk release, tested it and it opened the trunk every time (while plugged into the harness, out of the door). The in glovebox switch seems to work OK, cutting power to the door switch when out and connecting when in. However, 99% of the time the trunk latch won't release with the door switch unless the key is turned to ACC or ON. If I turn the key to the first position, it releases every time. Otherwise, with the key out, it will only release once in awhile. Any ideas as to why the key in the ACC position would enable the trunk release to work?
  6. No signal from the ignitor, or whatever it's called that it gets it's pulse from, or as in my case, a problem in the cluster itself. I just got the car 3 days ago (93 es300) from a family that had a high school student 'practising' his auto skills by trying to change the cluster backlight bulbs. In the re-assembly process, he forgot 1 of the 3 screws that looks like they just hold he circuit board to the housing. Actually, they are also electrical contacts, the missing 1 was for the tach. I luckily had a same size screw on hand, which brought it back to life. You might check this, a loose screw, especially if anyone has messed with the circuit board in the cluster. Do a search on instrument needle replacement here, several good how-to's on disassembly/reassembly.