m2pc

Did you get the Tripletreads? Is the ride stable? I have read some reviews where they stated "squirrly" riding characteristics. Also, they should be great in snow.

Replacing Turanza LS-V's, which were great, but a bit pricey. I am consitidering the Potenza RE960AS Pole Position, but was wondering if anyone has had any experience with these.

My buddy has the TTs on his 98 Avalon and they were great last winter in what little snow we had.

I opted for the Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S and absolutely love them. Sorry, got them in March after the snow.

If you got a Sullivan Tire near you, check them out. The price wasn't bad at all, I think they were $120 each.

steviej

Thanks Stevie, for $120 I could get the LS-V's ( or is 120 installed?). Are the Exalto's better in snow than the LS-V?

The very best 'factory' (OE size) original tire you can get currently is the Goodyear Triple Treads......next would come the Falken Ziex ZE-512. If you want long mileage with excellent performance in bad weather & a comfortable ride.....by far these are your best bet's! (I will be putting one or the other on my ES when my Toyo's wear out....my wife has the Falkens on her car now & my Dad has the Triple Treads....both are fantastic!) B) Let me know if you have anymore questions. B)

http://www.goodyearassurance.com/

http://www.falkentire.com/tires_512.htm

Did you get the Tripletreads? Is the ride stable? I have read some reviews where they stated "squirrly" riding characteristics. Also, they should be great in snow.

Replacing Turanza LS-V's, which were great, but a bit pricey. I am consitidering the Potenza RE960AS Pole Position, but was wondering if anyone has had any experience with these.

It uses good ol' dexron tranmission fluid not a combination or any other strange thing for the powersteering /hydralic fan system.

so instead of buying power steering fluid I just pour regular transmision fluid with drexon atf ?

It uses good ol' dexron tranmission fluid not a combination or any other strange thing for the powersteering /hydralic fan system.

after searching the whole day I finally foudn the leak of the power steering fluid, it is right under the fuel injector assembly, this is a hose that I think goes from the punp around the angine, under the distributor and connects to the engine fan in front. long hose I guess difficult to replace. Does anybody knows the technical name for such hose ? I been looking in different online catalogs but could not find anything like it.

thanks all

I found these hoses from a lexus online catalog for a 93 es300. Don't know which one you need to replace:

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...amp;catalogid=1

I agree with mburnickas,

I've been doing the last 4 drain and fills Dex III Synthetic (Redline D4) and 60,000 miles later, tranny still runs fine.

the pointer say OEM quality, they are not saying they are OEM parts

How much did it cost to have the valve covers replaced? My Rear on on a 98 is starting to leak. Front one looks fine...

RP, when you mention that they redesigned this in later models, it wouldn't apply to a 98 es300 then?

My problem would probably be the strut mount, the strut, or the swaybar bushing as mentioned later on. I guess I could use the silicon trick to narrow it down, but I am thinking the struts need to be replaced soon anyways.

Did you check to find out what could be the problem?

I checked everything when I did the struts, all the control arms and control arm bushings are good. The 4 control arms bolt to a large sub-frame kind of thing thats held in by 4 bushing assemblies, that could be the problem. Those 8 subframe bushings cost $200. This is what they redesigned in later models.

My advice is to replace the strut cartridges, our 94's don't need wheel allignment afterwards and they are cheap. I bought KYB units for like $36 each. The upper strut mounts were $75 each from Lexus and weren't worn out, so I advise not to replace them unless they are bad.

I think I can live with the noise, it rides much better with the new struts now. I don't want to spend too much money on such an old car. I just replaced the radiator and hoses too.

Added picture of crossmember on 1994 ES300.

Can you find a good independant shop to do the install? I priced out what it would cost for a set of 4 KYB GR2 Struts and Strut Mounts for about $500 delivered. But I think $200 per strut for labor is a little high.

Makes sence, Its at 95k so hopefully the tensioner doesn't need to be replaced.

When you say drive belts, thats the serpentine belt?

Hi Mrburnickas,

You performed:

"I had TB, water pump (with coolant), all new dive belts, cam seals, and crank seal done for around $740 out the door."

Would you also recommend replacing the tensioner?

Thanks,

Phil

Thanks Toys,

I prefer not to remove the TB if possible.

Thanks again,

I need to do this as well.

Can I remove the IACV by just removing the Air Hose? Looks a little tight to get to the 4 screws from underneath or do I also have to remove the whole throttle body?

Any TB cleaner will do?

I have used Michelins V rated Pilots, the stock Bridgestones 92's I think and the LS-V's. I like the LS-V's the best :), then the Pilot, and the stock stunk.

98 es300, 80% highway, I'm getting 23.5 to 24.5 MPG, so your doing pretty good on old plugs.

For OEM, I ussually give www.irontoad.com a shot. I dunno, does the oil pan gasket need an adhesive? I don't think the tranny pan does but thats the only other thing I would check.

Do you need the torque specs for te pan bolts?

Hmmm,

I edited the picture and tried to add it by using the add attachment.  Lets see if it worked....

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No those are a coolant temp sensor and a camshaft positioning sensor i believe...

take a photo of the right side of the engine, on the rear of it.

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NO No, not the two items that he had originally circled and wrote in are these it. The item I circled from my attachement at the top left corner better be it. Cause I replaced it out last year :P

Thats it, it matches Army of ones. I rememebr cause I can see the Hose wire that I needed a pair of pliers to get the pcv valve off.

Hmmm,

I edited the picture and tried to add it by using the add attachment. Lets see if it worked....

For Question # 1. Nope and nope those aren't it. I would say in Pic # 2, it is around the upper left hand corner, hidden behind the plug wires underneath the black plastic thingamajig and the silver doohickey.

(sorry for the technical terms)

For Qestion #2. Shop manual recommends either Denso-PK20TR11 or NGK-BKR6EKPB11. Front three are cake. Outer rear bank is ok. Middle rear is a pain.

At 119K, this will probably your cars 3rd set. Do you know if they replaced the wire set? If not you, might want to consider that.

Good luck.

A search would have found this

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...owtopic=399&hl=

I've used Redline D4 (synthetic) as a Dex III compatible for the last 20k miles. Car still runs :)

The previous post said it all, since he only topped off, any junk in the coolant is still in the coolant. BTW, occasionally check the level.

Thanks to both Steve and Mike.

You guys know the es300 real well and always offer good advice!

Thanks Mike,

I'm going to see if I can find prices from independants as well to see if I can find one a little closer.

I have got a good inde up here who is lexus and toyota certified.  Check out Toyota service centers as well as independents and Lexus.  Shop around, this is a steep one.

steviej

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Stieviej,

I'm in the Mass area as well, could you share with me who you think lexus and toyota certified shops?

Thanks

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The problem with Lexus is prices vary like the wind!

I jsut had my 98 ES done: timing belt done, water pump replaced, drive belts done, cam seal replaced and crank seals replaced for approx: $740.

So I think this dealership is close to what I found to the cheapest.

mburnickas,

which dealership did you go to? That seems like a reasonable price from a dealership. I'm in the Mass area and was thinking of either an independant or shopping around for prices. I will probably need to do these soon.