95LS400Bob

1. I went from the Califonia Ecu to a 49 state ECU about three months ago. The only issue I can see is more power. The wife commented the car is "spunkier." I see no problems at all and do not expect any. 2. There is not a lot to detail. Just remove the underpanel (2 screws and it snaps out.) Then remove the glovebox. Look up in there and you will see it. It's the one with all the plug ins. In fact..you can read the number of the ECU without remving it. Label is on the side of it. But you gotta near stand on your head. 3. I think at this point I would opt to find a rebuilt ECU with the latest flash. That truck electric place had the best deal on them. Search my threads...I know I mentioned that place and the part number.

The first time mine did it was at a stoplight. I thought it was just a freak deal. The next time it happened was when I was turning into a parking lot. The extra force of the power steering stalled the already low idle. Had that been my wife driving...she would have missed the driveway and gone in the ditch with no power steering. So...yes it is very dangerous. Why I went to such lengths to find it.

Great pics and you've even given me the part number. My front one has a few cracks....haven't noticed any symptoms but I am going to replace them. In 150,000 miles..they have flexed enough.

Please give us the part number of the new ECU they are putting in. It shoudl be listed on your invoice. Also let us know if they are charging you full bore or what. Thanks.

Done.

I have a sub for the next 22 days. Let me know.

89661-50234 is supposed to fix the jerk problem. 2 members I contacted said it fixed the problem. However, the number on ecu from Auto Truck in Florida may be a different number all together. Probably their number 56834. Which one member got and it must have had the latest upograde because it fixed his problem with the jerking.

My theory is that the ECU closes the idle air control down after X amount of constant rpm...possibly programmed that way for the mass air flow sensor to have better signal. A circuit is supposed to open the idle air control back up when returning to lower rpm and that circuit has a problem. Just a theory. The idle air control valve is a pulse unit. The ECU pulses that unit to fine tune that idle under different loads. I think the best test was that I had normal cold startup rpm and it would idle down when warmed up. That proved to me the IAC was working. The only time I had the low idle or dying was after the highway cruise....you could drive around town forever and never have a problem. You could take the highway cruise and then (knowing it was going to go a very low rpm or die at idle) hold your foot on the throttle a little and keep it running...smooth as could be. But take your foot off the gas and it would die. Start right back up and do the normal 600 rpm idle until the next highway cruise. Drove me nuts on a trip to Phoenix.

Check your fuel tank, fuel filter, lines, etc. Something is leaking.

You may haver already read this..but in case you have not...go here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=15699 If you have any pull with the dealer at all....point out the fact that the 95's and 96's had this problem and there was a bulletin on the 96's. Now..if you cannot get any dealer satisfaction...I would buy a rebuilt ECU..the model I listed as the improved model. They are about $400..a far cry from the price of a new one. Prices vary on these rebuilt deals. Read the symptoms I had carefully...and if you have the same...odds are it is the ECU. Beat up on the dealer...you have nothing to lose. And if you decide to replace it yourself...we will walk you right through the very simple job that it is to replace the ECU. By the way...the engine miss occasionally is probably a seperate problem...spark plug or wire most likely.

Read this thread and see if these symptoms are the same as yours. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=15699

There is a guy on Ebay that sells the driveline bushings for Lexus. All I know is that they are not oem and are aftermarket. They were around $50. My front rubber bushing has a bad place on it so I considered replacement and would have done so if they were oem. I am not getting any vibration so I am leaving it alone at this time. I did have a little vibration but the tranny mount took care of that.

That "wheel hop" you think you feel...could be driveline shudder...caused by carrier bearing or the driveline bushings. Might be something to look at.

To the top.

To the top. :D

Welcome to the club. Now read this: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=15699 :o

The biggest question I have is "Can you do this suspension repair work yourself?" If youb are going to pay someone to work on this car....be smart and pay more for a car with no problems. If you can do the work yourself..then price out some suspension components (like the lower support bars, ball joints, etc.) so you can get an idea on the repairs cost in parts alone. Blue book wise: Wholesale good condition (and this is not) $3670 Fair condition $3000 Private party value good $5385 Private fair $4755 I think your offer is good and the dealer "never leave a dollar on the table" is playing you until Friday.

Note that on mine that all the bulbs were good and the circuit was bad. Then a couple months later, all the bulbs burned out on a long trip. So if I were you, I would replace all the bulbs while you are in there. The radio shack numbers work fine and a local store had them.

Mine was like that...I think I cracked the hose when I was putting on motor mounts. The hose seemed almost formed to the fitting...maybe from heat. I just cut it off and replaced the hose with a piece of automatic transmission cooling line hose...which is rated for atf. Have had no problems since.

One member said that there was a circuit on the board that needed resoldering. I don't remember where I saw that. But here are my experiences. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...opic=12304&st=0

Is that the only code that is present? Fuel related? How so? Like low or high fuel pressure or do you mean a bad tank of fuel? ← Sorry I am so long in answering you. Must have missed your post. Not enough octane. The wife was using mid grade and we have not seen the code after changing to premium.

I would swap the rear 02 sensors. If the code sets up again..then I would have to say the cat might be the problem. But if you get a right bank code(P0 430)..then that would prove the rear 02 was bad. That is how I would do it before buying a cat. I haven't been getting the P0 420 code anymore. But that is my plan if it happens again. I have pulled both my cats off and looked at them and they are not broken inside and look fine.

Or loose suspension component on the right side. As in strut bar bushing.

Instructions and pics here. From my 95. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...774entry78774

Disconnect the battery cable first. Important. The Ecu is located under the dash on the right side behind the glovebox. Remove the bolts and take out the glovebox and the lower cover panel. Look up in there and you will see the ecu. It's the large box with 4 big plug in leads. Just unplug the leads and remove the bolts to take it out. The number on the ecu is like 89661-50141. There was more than one ecu for 1994. The latest shown I could find was a 89661-50142. There is some interchange between 94 and earlier cars on the ecu. Not so with 95. You can do one of the rebuilt deals or take your chances at a wrecking yard. I would do a 89661-50142. You're the first to have a 94 with all the identical symptoms that I know of. Most guys with earlier models cleaned the throttle body or replaced the idle control and solved the problem. But most of them had idle problems all the time...not this highway cruise and die deal like you got.