95LS400Bob

You have the exact symptoms I did. And I replaced my California ecu with a 89661-50221 and it solved the problem. That tells me something is wrong with your 89661-50221 ECU. The following is just a guess. Since the car idles normally until that highway cruise, my guess is that the ECU (for whatever reason) closes down the Idle air control valve to nearly closed after X amount of time at X amount of rpm/mph. The ECU is supposed to signal the idle air control valve to reopen on decleration or stopping after that cruise and it is just not doing it. This could be a certain electrical section in the ECU itself that malfunctions. I do know the idle air control valve has to be pulsed many,many times by the ecu to open or close. It's a pulse motor. I had mine off and even drilled it and took it apart...thinking that had to be the problem. But when I got to thinking about it....if the idle air control was not working right or hanging up..then why did I have a perfect fast idle on cold start and perfect idling all other times except for that highway cruise dealio? I had thought up a test to catch the idle control in the act (closed after the highway cruise) but forgot how I was going to do it. I heard some guys simply turned on their a/c system when they knew they were coming to a stop and that got them by. This might make sense as when we bought the car and drove it 500 miles home, it never died. It was summer throught the desert and we had a/c on all the time. The ECU knows the a/c is on and it opens the Idle air control valve to compensate the load to keep the idle rpm the same.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...765entry73765 95/96's are different than earliers. Also there is a guy selling them on Ebay.

I did not have to remove the cd changer. But the bolts are way up there and mostly by feel to get them out. I took out the cruise computer and they gave me more room and I got that top bolt out.

Several of us with 95/96's have seen those codes one time or another. Some of us have replaced 02's and have had the codes occasionally appear again. Yet the cars continue to run perfectly and pass smog tests. On my own..I have pulled cats and they look perfect. Yet I occasionally get the 420 code. I am beginning to wonder if the ECU is just too sensitive.

Seems I heard it was real expensive to get those air bags back operational. Better find out.

"I don't know if the guy was bs-ing or not but that's about all he could do about it he said." I say he was.

You can download anything they got. No limit. All PDF. I have dsl and did all the stuff for 2 vehicles in a couple hours. Name the files as you go or you'll have fun sorting it all out later. Burn to Cd and you are all set.

I download all the inof for my Lexus and for my 91 Toyota pickup. True bargain for $10.

We tried to run the 95 on regular since we live at 4400 ft elevation and figured we could get away with it. It seemed to run just fine. Until one day the wife put premium in it as the station was out of regular. She says it runs wayyyy better with the premium so that is what we do.

Not sure about the wiring. Probably runs under the carpet. Will the cats switch right to left? Not sure if they will but that would also tell something. Federal law against selling used cat converters. So wrecking yards don't do it. Muffler shops are supposed to keep count of the converters they replace or they get in trouble with the Feds. Performance wise..this code is not hurting anything. The computer checks and compares between the front 02 and the rear 02 and if a problem sets the code. But no engine tuning parameters are changed.

Quite a deal isn't it? LOL. We have these wonderful quiet smooth running cars until we take a highway cruise and then they quit at a stop light. Restart and all is normal again. Till the next highway cruise. Meanwhile you drive around town and all is normal. Drove me nuts. I had to find it. For the record...see if you can find out what number is on your present ECU and what number is on the one they replace it with. And we are all glad we are training your dealer. Instead of throwing parts at it.

Not sure if this is the same thing...but....one of the guys mentioned that after a highway cruise and he knew he was going to come to a stop...he would turn on the a/c and that would keep the motor from dying when he stopped. On my deal (read all the posts I did in this thread) when we bought the car and drove it in from Las Vegas....it never died. Later we attributed this to the a/c was on the whole trip.

95 and 96 are OBDII and you need the reader. Website is wrong. (4 and back..no reader and follow instructions for jumping and reading there on the website. The website is confusing. I have a 95 and it is OBDII and requires a reader.

That's it. And just a note..1995 was ODBII and requires a reader.

It's true. OBD1 it is called. But someone will have to tell you what pins to jump. You count the flashes and that's the code. Someone is sure to have more info.

You might want to read this: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=17598

Because Murphy's law says if you don't change the pump while your in there you will be back in there to change the pump.

Idle air control valve or early stages of the 95 ECU problems. Read the thread on 95Ls dies after highway cruise. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=15699

Just so you know. $325 was the lowest price I found for a rebuilt..anywhere out of the remanufacturers. Generally they ship you a rebuilt and you ship your core back for credit. Used ones are tough and maybe you get another one doing the same thing. Remember it's a problem with a lot of 95's. Most quotes were $500-$600.

Clean it or wrecking yard. Lexus parts are nuts.

All was well done..lubricated pins...the whole dealio..just pads on wrong on the front and squealers backwards on the rear.

I just checked the pdf Lexus manual I have and it shows only one side with the relief. And they also talk about the proper direction the pads are to go on. If you email me I will send you the pdf file if you like. Don't know how to post it here.

I'm in Reno...bought the Lexus in Vegas. I don't know that the pads on the front of the Lexus are oem or aftermarket. But there is a relief (maybe chamfer is a better word)...a place on the pad where the material is cut away...about 45 degree angle....and this cutaway area needs to be the first pad area the rotor would "see" when the wheel is rotating forward. So..if your pad has this cutaway area....if you are standing at the wheel looking at it...the cut area would be closest to the ground. Did that help?

Many of you know how I got this Lexus for very cheap. For those that don't I'll give a short explanation. Basically this guys mechanic (whom this man trusted to no end) told him a lot of things were wrong with te car that were not. Like bad air suspension ($1000 struts)....only problem is...the car doesn't have air suspension. ETC. I tried to convince the man the car did not have air ride...but he insisted and I wound up buying the car for a very cheap price. Since buying the car..I have not found one thing right that this mechanic told him was wrong with this car. Anyway the brakes squealed on the car when I got it. I was going intop the front end anyway and while I was there I noticed the front brake pads were installed upside down. They are directional...and should be installed with the relief cut in the pads facing toward the rotation of the wheel. If that description is not clear...what I mean is when you are standing looking at the wheel...the relief would be down. I corrected the pads orientation while I was there and the brake squeal stopped. A couple days later..the wife is complaining the brakes squeal...but only when backing up. I glanced at the rear brake pads and they didn't look like they were directional. So I said "Just don't back up. A Lexus is to be driven in forward direction anyway." And I postponed looking for the problem until today. I pulled the rear pads and they looked like they could be installed either direction. The pads are relieved at both ends..like a lot of cars are. So I pulled the pads anyway and took off the "anti squeal" metal pads on the back of the pad. Sure enough...they have an arrow on them...indictaing that these metal deals go on only one way. And of course...like everything this mechanic ever did to this car...they were backwards. I turned them around so they faced the correct direction and that was it. No more squeal forward or backwards. Somewhere in Las Vegas is someone (don;t know who) that is not much of a mechanic but must be a smooth talker.