scotturnot

Hey Jibbby! Where you been? Have not seen you on Lextreme. Hows the car running?

I have a 97 SC400 but there is nothing 97 about it. Crazy, I had forgot I was a member of this forum. LOL

Here check out this link for better explanation- http://www.planetsoarer.com/#BFI later, Scott M.

because you actually make power and its much much cheaper. Sure, not only does it bring in fresh cool air, but on top of that it actually forces air in. Its like ram air. AND 4 LESS $$$$$$$ Later, Scott M.

thanks, Scott M.

#12 (below) This is the last picture. It’s hard to see it good from a picture but here is an attempt. If you remove the filter (I used a K&N) and look out the front this is what you see. Notice how open it is, plenty of air getting in here! Later, Scott M.

#11 (below) This picture is a little difficult to follow at first. It is looking in the front air dam opening right below the tag mount. You remove the two stock fasteners to allow the plastic air director to be pulled down to open up a sort of air scoop in the front of the car. I used some aluminum tube that I threaded to Allow me to bolt to the plastic air shield so again no hole drilling was required. Tensing holds it up against the bushings. I am fortunate to have a 97 so I get the additional benefit of the factory grill bringing in additional air.

#10 (below) Here is the actual air box modification. I made an aluminum bracket to mount the top lid too. This is aluminum angle purchased from your local hardware store. Cut one leg where you need it to bend and bend it by hand. I riveted it to the box prior to cutting open the hole so I was sure not to cut too much. By the way, the bushing shown on the lower right corner is the one I referenced sanding off a 1/8”.

#9 (below) Looking from headlight socket in, notice formed flap that directs airflow thru the opening up and over the harness bundle

#8 (below) This is the formed corner installed looking from the right side in. Notice the rivet securing it, this is the only hole you will need to drill. Again, the use of door edge guard for seal and anti rattle. See where the dimple comes into play.

#7 (below) This picture is of the formed corner installed looking from the inside engine bay out front of the car.

PIC 6

#5 and #6 (Below) This is the formed corner that goes underneath the headlight. This is actually the air tunnel for the intake. This is the toughest part of the build. Again I formed it from 1/8” abs plastic. The real dilemma here is to be able to cut your template so it actually sets against the bottom of the head light. It uses the bottom of the headlight as the forth wall of the tunnel to allow for the biggest amount of air flow. Again, you must use a heat gun to form it to match your template. The sunk in dimple in the corner was done by just heating up the abs and pressing in the car for a perfect fit around stock snorkel mount boss.

#4 (below) Here is a picture of the vertical filler panel I made. This too was formed from abs (thicker 1/8”). Make a poster board template again bending it where it needs bend. To do this you must have you air box installed for proper fit. Unfold it and cut out the panel. Now using a heat gun bend the abs to match your pattern. The bottom bolt is actually part of your air box mounting, you will need to sand 1/8” off of the bottom of the air-box mounting bushing to accommodate the panel thickness. The top is mounted to an exiting bracket thru an existing hole using a push in tree. Again no drilling required on your ride. Note use of door edge guard again for the seal.

#3 (below) This is a picture of the top plate. Take care to make a good template out of poster board prior to cutting the plate. I chose to cut mine from black abs plastic (1/16” thick), you can obtain it from about any stereo shop, its easy to work with and looks good. Notice I used door edge guard where it fits up to the air-box, looks clean and provides a good seal.