amf1932

I don't think you'll get an accurate figure of how much this repair will cost you here, since every type of chassis damage varies. The car has to be put on an accurate chassis machine to really tell the extent of the damage, and how much the sheet metal will cost to replace or be straightened, plus the repainting costs.

Using a number scale for comparison of volume levels is very inaccurate because the source material can vary all over the place, especially from different model cars audio systems. To do this properly, you need to use a calibrated test CD and feed a pink noise signal into the cars interior and measure the sound volume(db) on a decibel meter. Then do this in another car that you want to test and you'll see that the volume from one car to the other will vary, assuming you use the same number, let's say 30 or 35.

Most likely you need new rear struts.

Register here and they'll send you an Owners Manual free> Register You can view this Owners Manual online also. Good luck with your new car......it's beautiful!! :)

You're in the right forum. :)

This is NOT a problem! The transmission controller is designed to delay this shifting until the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature. The pre-ignition (knocking & pinging) is probably due to carbon buildup in the combustion chambers due to the high mileage on your car. That's why you need to use premium grade fuel. New sparkplugs, or a full engine tuneup might help this problem.

If you open up your drivers door you'll see a plaque on the bottom of the door jamb with the month and year. Keep looking, you'll find it. :)

Probably all they have to do is bleed the brakes. Sounds like they have air in the lines.

Including the thief that stole it from your vehicle. LOL :P

There is a plaque on the bottom of the door jam on the drivers side.

OK, GET OUT TRAITOR!!! Only kidding.........good luck with your Mustang......looks real pretty. :)

The big problem with water damage is that symptom's usually don't show up immediately and can take up to months or years before they happen. This happened to me some years back when I bought a used 1988 Oldsmobile from some guy. He never told me that this car was considered a flood vehicle, and over the period of a few years I had an unbelievable amount of electrical wire and component failures. Maybe your car wasn't affected due to the fact that newer cars have better insulation, but in any case, I would contact a Lexus dealer and get their opinion. Good luck.

You were probably logged out due to the fact that certain updates to this website caused some members to be logged out.

Welcome to the club......Happy to hear that you and your wife are recovering nicely. I'm aware of the trauma that you must have gone through, since my wife's Toyota Corolla was also totalled last week, and she also spent a day in the hospital where they did all kinds of tests (MRI, etc.). Thankfully, she's recovering nicely also. Somebody ran a stop sign, and was also talking on a cellphone. I'm sure you'll love your new ES. Good luck! :)

I always figured that the gas mileage had to suffer for city driving after the ECU was flashed, mainly because the transmission is held to a higher RPM before it shifted to a higher gear. I know this happened with my '03 ES, even though some members that had the flash claim that their mileage was no worse. I also read that this flash made the specifications for ULEV no more applicable for this car!!

The rule of thumb on capactior size used by most manufacturers is 1 Farad per 1,000 watts (RMS). Using this as your guide, then you would use a .5 Farad capacitor for systems up to 500 watts a 1 Farad capacitor for systems up to 1,000 watts a 2 Farad capacitor for systems up to 2,000 watts When you calculate the power in your system you want to figure in actual used power, keeping in mind what you actually want running off of the capacitor. For example, if you had a system that includes a head unit rated for 50 watts total output, an amp to run your highs rated for 350 watts, and an amp on your subs rated for 500 watts, then you would start out by looking at what you want to add capacitance to. The head unit in this example system would not be running any speakers off of it, so it would not be figured in. When considering the amplifiers, remember that the lower the frequency, the more power you need to reproduce it at the same volume as a higher frequency. Because of this (along with knowing what kind of power delivery you already have set up for the system) you may find that you only need to add the capacitor to the subwoofer amp, which at 500 watts would require a .5 Farad capacitor. If you wanted to include the highs amp as well, then you would want to use a 1 Farad capacitor. Another thing to note on this topic is that you can't really add too much capacitance to your system, so it's safe to overshoot the guidelines. If you wanted to add three 1 Farad capacitors to a 1,000 watt system, it would not be a problem at all.

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_capa...nstallation.htm