PakiLegacy

Thanks guys. I would certainly take it in but the Sewell Lexus is about 80 miles from where I live. Oh well...I guess I will take the drive :) Black Friday sounds like a good excuse to go to Dallas.

Hey folks: I have a GS300 with 55K miles on it. Recently I noticed that the driver side headlight turns off within a second or two of being turned on. This happens everytime no matter what I do. The fact that the bulbs turns on, I assume the bulb is not bad. Any idea what it may be? Also, it is a CPO with 100k warranty. Do you know if Lexus covers headlights under that warranty? I called Lexus here in Dallas and the guy said that he is not sure if they do and I will have to bring the car in in order for them to check it out. I don't want to take it in until I am sure they will cover it. Thanks for your help.

I have a different problem though. My bluetooth does not show anything until someone answers the phone or it goes to a voice mail. In other words, I do not hear the phone ringing at all. I would love a solution but for now, I have learned to ignore it.

I take mine to the dealer. Total after taxes is around $70 for oil change only. Someone said that its $40 with coupon. Seriously? I have never seen Lexus dealership in Dallas offer coupons :(

Me too. Please let me know if you figure it out. I live in a dark neighborhood and at nights its hard to see more than 20 feet.

Drove from Dallas to Houston on cruise control at 70 mph and got almost 34 mpg. City is around 24 mpg.

Upgraded from ES330 to GS300. 36K miles, Opal Blue exterior, Ash interior. Navigation, Blue Tooth, Backup Camera, Mark Levinson, Park Assist, Lexus CPO 3 years/100,000 warranty. Paid $28,100 before taxes. 31,000 after all taxes and fees. So we are pretty much around the same figure. I did go ahead and added the dent guard feature because I park my car in downtown and people usually don't care about the car in the next spot :) So far, I am loving the car. My only compare is the trunk space but then I knew what I was getting into when upgrading form ES to a GS. Also, interior lighting is good, but I think it would not have hurt to put a cabin light which can be controlled manually in addition to the spot lights.

A DC motor can fail a couple ways. One is the bearings seize and the armature can't rotate. In this case you'll likely hear some noise and as suggested earlier a slight drop in voltage as evidenced by dimming lights. Of course it could be a blown fuse upstream as well. The second way a DC motor fails is the windings burn and go open circuit and/or the brushes on the commutator go bad. Probably not fixable and better to replace entire motor. If you don't have a test battery you could just probe for voltage at the motor connector. +12VDC and Ground applied to two wires for one direction and the voltages should be reversed for the other. If you have voltage then this points to an open circuit motor. If no voltage your mystery moves to wires, switches, and fuses. A common failure is breaking wires in the hinge area. The wires get flexed every door open/close so eventually break inside the insulation. A test for this would be to have someone depress the window switch and then try yanking the rubber boot with the wires to the door in question and at the drivers door. If wiggling gets a momentary burst then you know the broken wire is in that bundle. You'll need to go in a splice a piece of wire to repair the broken wire. Use shrink tubing and or electrical tape to re-insulate all your solder joints. I had the same problem with my ES. The dealer dealer said that that ESs come with a defect and when you do not use the window for a long time, it jams itself along the ruber around the window. He told me to apply manual pressure to the window while holding the switch down. This fixed the problem after a little struggle. However, my windows jammed again the next summer. I have not bothered to try to fix it yet as I hardly roll my windows down.