LVheretic

code58, It is an AWD model. I also have tried the disconnecting the battery and shifting through the gears. I have not tried jacking the vehicle up while in neutral to see if any wheel can turn in neutral. I was kinda thinking it could be a clogged transmission filter. Nick

About 2 years ago, with 100k miles, my engine failed due to complications from oil gel. I was able to produce proof of oil changes and Lexus replaced the engine. A year ago, the transmission started slipping and eventually went totally into neutral. I changed the fluid and filter and with the exception of no overdrive, the transmission worked/shifted fine until recently. While driving the car clunked and jerked like it was being thrown into park. Shortly after it refused to move or even roll in neutral. It did make whirring type noise when put in gear. Right now, the wheels will not roll even in neutral so I cant move the vehicle in any direction without forcing. Any ideas on the problem or how to get it to roll? Nick/Las Vegas

If you still have not determined the problem, there is a vacuum line that connects at the back of the air cleaner--under the wiring harness that if not connected WILL cause the symptoms you described. It's location makes it easy to overlook when putting the car back together. I'm speaking from firsthand experience here... had the same thing happen to me. When you solve the problem, be sure to post what it was. Good luck. Nick/Las Vegas

I agree it sounds like the tire place is trying to "drum" (bad joke, I know) up some business. I can practically hear the mechanic saying "you dont HAVE to replace 'em today--but you never know when they will go so drive careful...especially if you have kids". Well, you do get a warning...from the wear indicator which does not harm the rotors... Search this site and you will find a good posting (originally from Auto Zone) with about 10 steps, with pictures, to change them yourself...pretty easy...total cost: under $50 per axle. Good luck Nick/Las Vegas

Did you already check your fuses? Mine did the something similar last week---radio worked but all the lights were dark at night. I believe it was a 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse box to the left of the steering wheel.

There are actually 2 cup holders in the center console... One is in the very top part and pops up when a button is pushed... On it's best day, I found this one to be weak and prone to collapsing causing drinks to topple, spill and possibly stain the carpet. According to the manual, this holder is supposed to be for the passengers in the back seats. There are lots of aftermarket holders and I waited until I found one that matches the plastic really well, has 2 adjustable, locking cup holders, cd slots and fits perfectly on the middle of the floor between the base of the rear seats and the base of the console. Its pretty stable but I use velcro on the bottom anyways. The second cup holder, for those in the front, is in the bottom drawer of the console. Like the other, the stabalizing part is low and not effective on anything taller than a soda can. Travel coffee cups and 32 oz plastic soda cups are still prone to topple but at least the sides of the drawer keep them from flying. The design of BOTH have always been a pet peeve to me especially when I see economy type cars with much better designs. Both oem holders are dealer items as far I know... personally, I would only consider buying the one that mounts in the drawer. But if you only drink small coffees or sodas in the can, you may consider doing both. Nick/Las Vegas

I have stated for years years. Either a valve cover removal or UOA. Best bang for dollar is UOA. UOA=Used Oil Analysis. The sludge issue is overblown. Why? I am doing over 12K drains and the internals (via pictures) and UOA reports are greatr using Amsoil. Figure that out. This is in a 98 ES that is the sludge prone motor that is BS. That sounds like the way to go if unsure. In my case that wasn't an issue. When you remove the oil filler cap and you can see what looks like grease stuck to stuff inside the hole and /or all over the bottom of the filler cap then your vehicle is a prime candidate for engine seizure. Nick/Las Vegas

Great ending for sure, one question though, did you use synth oil for changes or dino? I confess, at that time I did not know the advantages of synth... the oil change place is a local chain and used oil that met the oem specs. In their defense, because I always used the same company, they were able to print off copies of oil change receipts proving the service had not been neglected. I also do not know what the factory initially put in the new motor, but I can tell you that since the 1st oil change and however long I own this vehicle, it will run synth oil.

I have a 99 RX 300... kept the oil changed regularly and at about 103,000 miles every now and then it would cough up smoke at start up...drove fine and was running better and better on a road trip from Las Vegas, Nevada to Laredo, Texas. Then getting back on the I10 at the last exit leaving El Paso, it lost virtually all power and started making major engine noise... I knew in 5 minutes this vehicle was not going anywhere under its own power anytime soon...1 call to AAA and in 30 minutes a tow truck arrived along with Enterprise rental pick up service... 45 minutes total down time before resuming the trip. Anyhow, Lexus El Paso's answer the next day via telephone was "the motors shot; if you want a new one its $10k or for $7 we can get a used one salvaged with 70k". I hung up to ponder what now. This is why I owe gratitude to whoever started this site because I call Lexus later and inquired if sludge had caused or was a factor in the seizure. Hours later they called and said yes but the car was out of warranty... Again, because of this site I knew it was increased in years and mileage to 100k. The dealership could not extend the warranty but at an employees suggestion, I called Lexus US Customer Service. Long and short of it, Lexus warrantied a new motor and covered the rental during the repair. After all this, I received notice of the further extended terms of warranty. If you have a dealer not working with you, I would suggest going straight to the Lexus US Customer Service. Nick/Las Vegas

I followed the suggestion in another post to use masking tape to prevent the thin paneling from cracking... I think it definitely helped... I didnt have any breaks or cracks afterwards. Nick Las Vegas

It sounds like the MAF. $900 fromLexus. $52 at Murrays. Don't bother trying to clean. It won't work Maybe it did not work for you , but it did great for me.. My RX mpg was sinking and one day, when it got around 12 mpg, the check engine light kicked on and it started idling really rough. I disconnected the battery, got some Valvoline Throttle Body Cleaner and cleaned the MAF, IACV and the butterflys on the intake. When I cranked it, the engine light stayed off, it idled smooth again and accelerated faster than ever. For little effort the savings and benefits were huge.

FYI, the Chilton/Haynes manuals that include the 99-01 Camry models have most general repairs (including belts) made as simple as possible. I agree the belts can be a pain... mostly because the Dayco or Gates aftermarket replacement for the bottom belt is .5' shorter than the OEM...making it almost impossible to install conventionally. I had to remove the Power steering pump pulley. Good luck

Ok, heres my take on what must be the worst feature on our vehicles. Its pretty sad to get saddled with a Taurus for a rental when out of state and catch yourself wishing "man, I wisg my Lexus had drink holders like this". Here are 3 suggestions: 1) Use the drink holder in the bottom part of the console...only catch is if you kept the drawer lubed, it tends to slide to and fro sometime tipping over the drink. 2) I bought an after market holder that grips the drink like a vise. I mounted the holder going across the bottom drawer of the console as you expand the base until tight. 3) Sippie cups are ok but can still leak when tipped over. Thermos makes a thin, stainless steel and black rubber container kinda like a sports bottle that has a push button opening top for 1 handed operation. When done the top clicks into the lock position and even has a bracket that clips over for extra peace of mind. It seems like it costs between $15 and $20 but when closed you can throw it anywhere and it wont leak. Plus, it keeps drinks colder, longer than ANY other product...like all day in the Las Vegas heat. (also this thing would be a good improvised weapon =) )

On 3 lengthy occassions I have had the same "rolling" sound...each time it was not predictable (made tracking almost impossible) and sounded like it originated somewhere between the console and base of the dash. FYI, I found the acoustics of the cabin are disorienting. Anyways, here were the causes: 1) a crayon rolling around in the base of my sons car seat (positioned in center of rear bench) 2) part of my keychain swinging along the base of the dash 3) coins rolling in the dash that had fallen out the little storage door left of the steering coloumn Also, the dealer in Las Vegas (Fletcher Jones) has been good but I wouldnt want to pay the shop rate for something like this. :-)

I've changed mine twice...for the back 3 I only removed the pcv and its attached hoses. For me, the hardest plug was the back right. I used a short type 1/4 inch socket wrench and had an assortment if extensions to create custom lengths. In one case, the 4" ext didnt clear to where I could turn the socket. The 6" ext was too long. Using various extensions a 5" worked best for me. You migbt prefer something else, so the more varied your extensions the better. Most important: Take about a foot of hose, push one end onto the tip of a new plug and lower into the hole. Roll the exposed portion of hose clockwise to easily start threading the plug WITHOUT the posibility of cross threading. Good luck.

I have a Lift Master opener and like most openers I have seen, you can RESET the opener, then follow the openers instructions to add remotes.

I wanted to be able to trailer my motorcycle (yamaha r-6) to racetracks. Having kids prompted the SUV style. I did not want to drive a mountain like a Yukon. I was leaning toward the Jeep Cherokee Limited but reliability was a concern. I was not impressed with the Jeep dealership and wandered onto the Lexus lot. The Lexus stickers were higher than the Jeep...but they were loaded. When a Jeep had leather, moonroof and all the other stuff the sticker prices were closer than I would have thought. Along with the vehicle holding its value, customer service after the sale has more than justified the slightly higher cost. No regrets.

According to the dealer, the alternator had gone bad and caused a short in the entire electrical system... I got the impression they were not sure and had just replaced the 3 most likely culprits. According to the dealer, the alternator had gone bad and caused a short in the entire electrical system... I got the impression they were not sure and had just replaced the 3 most likely culprits.

I do not know what expectations you have for coverage/cost BUT I can assure you the $50 or so yearly cost for AAA has given the absolute biggest peace of mind possible. A whole lot of benefits for a cost that pays for itself with one towing. Right after getting AAA my RX300 completely died at a light, at night on a very busy 4 lane road... all power was lost so I couldnt even turn on the flashers... without AAA, I would have had to leave the vehicle and find a phone book to start calling tow trucks...figure out which had the capability of towing an RX300(usually put on a flatbed looking truck), how soon could they respond, the cost...determine where to take the vehicle...start calling on a rental...etc....all that was avoided and all that legwork done in 5 minutes...out of pocket cost? $0. Also, the shop the car was towed to deferred to the dealer so AAA again arranged for the vehicle to be transported to the dealer...my cost? $0. You can be stranded anywhere and they will get someone to you...lno hiking to a rest stop to call and beg the closest tow truck to drive 150 miles in the middle of the night to get you running...and to be quick about it...and that you do not expect to pay more than $50.... Lockouts, out of gas whatever...they even take care of you when not driving your own car... I'll get off the soapbox now =)

This reply is a little late, but if anyone is interested... My drivers door has been having similar symptoms... it will not lock with the remote but will unlock about 50% of the time... My understanding, feel free to confirm or quash this. is the LOCK is not the problem. There is actually a solenoid malfunctioning that causes this problem. Since the rear drivers side door is almost never opened, I had planned on swapping the "gizmos" (if possible) . I took my door apart and could not be sure which "gizmo" was the problem. When putting the door back, I noticed there are 2 cable tension adjusters right by the pull handle. I think its not by chance that there are so many of us with this problem and its almost always the drivers door. First chance I get, I plan to take the door off again and see if adjusting the cables restores the lock/unlock function. If it works, I will post the details. Also, if you take the door off, there is one screw hidden under the window control panel. Since you have to carefully pry the panel off to access the screw, its worth the time to put masking tape all over the "wood" trim area to prevent/minimize the chance of cracking or breaking the panel. Good luck. Nick

I had a similar situation where I thought I had damaged the tuner ; the cd player still worked though. Then one day an 18 wheeler was cutting me off so I went to honk the horn and nothing....I found the horn fuse under the hood was blown. When I replaced it, the radio started working like normal. If you have not already done so, you may want to check all the fuses--even the ones that sound unrelated before getting into the complicated stuff. After that I would check that all connections were clean and secure. Good luck

If the offer is still good, I would appreciate a copy for the door locking system. Email is: LVheretic@yahoo.com Thanks

I agree with Bowtie and will add that the starter is most likely of the two. If the solenoid is going bad, it hangs out the gear that spins the flywheel. If the flywheel is cracked, it can "grab" the gear in the starter. Besides being most likely, the starter is easiest to replace. I also had a Maxima a few years back that had the same issue. It started happening more often, etc. If you are about to be stranded because the car cant be started, try tapping firmly the starter with a hammer. If not under warranty, it could get expensive. The Maxima would have cost $600 at the dealer, $400 at Goodyear or $130 for a lifetime warranty starter from a parts store---I saved $470 by taking 30 minutes and doing myself. FYI, while shop manuals like Haynes may not be available for Lexus, I found the v-6 Camry manual works for fine for most general repairs. Good luck.

I did mine with an assortment of extensions and u joints. The chilton/haynes manual for 97-01 (or thereabouts--I know 99 and 00 are in the same book) camrys under the v-6 give instructions. Also, an old trick from motorcycle riding that was key on putting the new plugs in was to get about a 14-18" piece of vacuum hose onto the top of the plug and drop it in and turn....prevents any cross threading and once the threads catch its easy to pull back out. I would not think of trying without using this trick...

I did both of my belts about 1 1/2 ago... On the PS belt I found it easier to change from the underside. As to the bolts, if you go to your library and check out the Chilton or Haynes manual for the Camry (97-01 I think) and look the v-6 layout and process to change belts is the same--and it shows which bolts to loosen. Word of caution---the replacement belt I was given was slightly shorter than OEM for the PS. The only way to get on was to remove the pulley. Hopefully your dealer got you the right one.