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Looks like you need DI-53 on as well as FSM does your code reader have freeze frame ?

ok. send me your email via PM and I will send you a link to my copy. will look up code and reply.

So it could be the water temp sensor. download the FSM it will help you a lot. Look on forums for link Good luck.

Also check the water temp sensor. Are you saying that if you clear the codes with a code reader its fine unit it gets hot then codes reappear ?

A quick look as FSM says you should do this next 5. INSPECT CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (a) Disconnect the sensor connector. (b) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals. Resistance: Cold 835 - 1,400 W Hot 1,060 - 1,645 W If the resistance is not as specified, replace the sensor. © Reconnect the camshaft position sensor connector. 6. INSPECT CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (a) Disconnect the sensor connector. (b) Remove the bolt holding the connector bracket to the water pump. © Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals. Resistance: Cold 1,630 - 2,740 W Hot 2,065 - 3,225 W If the resistance is not as specified, replace the sensor. (d) Reinstall the bolt holding the connector bracket to the water pump. edited to try and get back readable format. (e) Reconnect the sensor connector.

Sent you email with link to my onedrive public files. Look for is300 folder

I dont even have a valet key, my car came with one broken master. I strongly suggest you get a master Key as soon as possible. Read my Sig....

hi, thanks. well i just have the valet key. the PO tell me that he star the car with the valet key without problem. what do you mean with this? 1. Key Unlock Warning Switch 2. Ignition Switch 3. RAD NO. 2 Fuse 4. Wire Harness 5. Theft Deterrent ECU BE-21 BE-21 BE-15 - DI-776 The 1 through 5 are list from FSM of problems that will cause your issue, BE-21 is page number for further info. Sorry it lost format when i hit the post button. Download the FSM, if you cant find link i have one i can email you link to my files. send me PM

When ignition is turned on the Fuel gauge should respond. Do you have another key to try. from FSM The system cannot be canceled when the ignition switch is turned to ON with key. 1. Key Unlock Warning Switch 2. Ignition Switch 3. RAD NO. 2 Fuse 4. Wire Harness 5. Theft Deterrent ECU BE-21 BE-21 BE-15 - DI-776

When ignition is turned on the Fuel gauge should respond. Do you have another key to try.

I just checked my spare bulb, i only installed one of a pair, and yes its black round base with silver contacts. with no wire. I don't remember exactly how this fits, but it does. you remove the bulb from the grey holder. I suggest you do a search on YouTube or Google to see how its done.

Sorry Duplicate post please delete.

Where do you live ? My keys were cut for me at an independant Lexus service garage here in the Dallas area.

I have a 2004 and if I turn off the traction control on a wet road it will step out and spin if you dont take corrective action

i coughed up for the Lexus one ....

BTW I am confused, you list ES300 on your profile, yet this post is about an IS250 and that you posted in the IS 300 sub forum..??

i have always had my Radiators repaired, successfully I might add.. For that kind of money I would look into into a solid Aluminium radiator rather than an OEM, or check out Rock Auto....

Ok, 2001 had no stick shift option. Also ECU is not re-programmable, so major issues if you ever don't have a master key. 2004 on had upgraded CD player and smoked rear lights as standard. 2005 no longer had LSD as an option. I think there is a lot of choice out there if you are willing to go Automatic. As far as price I really think its dependent on condition. I will only ask $9500 for my MSN 2004 Manual with LSD 154K and new tires, battery, windshield when i put it up for sale.

Ok. What you have sounds normal.... Let me explain. All newer disc brakes rely on the play in the wheel bearings to knock back the pads. My 67 Jaguar has a retraction mechanism that pulls pads back 0.010, but i have neve rseen this on a modern car. So to test this you need to drive the car at low speed, do left right shakes and stop using the hand brake drum brakes, or coast to a stop where you can jack it up. you should find the brakes are not in contact. Only other thing to check is rear discs have been reported to rub at rear inside. remove and Look for bright spots.

First, the plugs are due at 90K and the toyota vechicles with the engine and plugs are 105 or 120 K, cant remember, so you can and people have gone over the 90k with no problem. Check your lexus maintanance table. If you filled your tankand lights went off maybe it was the cap not on tight. Get the codes read, or buy a code reader.

If its a TPS problem ( and Probably PPS) it should throw a code. Did you ask them if there were any codes ?

^X2 certainly isnt the clutch !!!

what about the passenger side door ?

I have a 2004 and about 145K I started having the P0420 P0430 codes. I used a cheater to fix this. They are cheap and get the light off, I have passed emissions since I installed. Agruments against this vs an O2 Sim are that you still need a working O2, ie heater can and will fail at usual interval. Mine were $25 for two Stainless Steel made in USA. If you need a link let me know. O2 heater hasnt failed yet.

So the rubber timing belt is 11 yrs old or so, and has a life expectancy of 6yrs and 90 k miles. Do you like to gamble ? Do you win ? If it was mine i would change it !!!