chesnutlane

If you didn't find any contamination from engine oil the next place I would check would be the transmission. I have seen the radiator fail at the core where the tranny line cooler is. If it has just started you might get lucky and it will only bleed off from the radiator side being that the cooling system still has pressure until it cools down. You stated the car was new to you in the last two weeks maybe the previous owner tried flushing out the coolant and what you are seeing is the residual of it. From the symptoms that you have mentioned it sounds like you may have an electrical issue or a faulty sensor causing the fans to constantly run. I would first check the engine coolant temperature sensor on OBD2 its called an ECT. Its job is to measure engine coolant temp, it affects fuel delivery and idle speed as well as the ignition timing and egr. On fuel injected engines it works with the PCM to function as a carburetors "choke circuit" I am not sure your level of experience so maybe this will help someone else if not you Thermistors- purpose is to vary resistance according to temperature change inside is a semi-conductor crystal known as a negative temperature coefficient ( NTC thermistor ) Reference voltage is passed through a fixed resistor within the PCM & then through the NTC thermistor. As temperature increases -- resistance decreases and voltage signal decreases which pretty much means you get a voltage drop over the thermistor. General temp & resistance parameters -40*F = 100,000 ohms +210*F = 2000 ohms Again I can go on and on just trying to help tim

I normally use a 12 point deep well chrome socket metric and find one that almost fits and tap it on with a hammer and use an impact to remove it or a breaker bar or 1/2 ratchet if you dont have air. To remove the lug nut from the socket use a punch or screwdriver and tap it on the ground form the top side of the socket and it will come out.

Hello again, I do understand that a proper diagnose over a computer is not an easy task. I myself have a 1993 with now 112k miles on it and yes its true that I have "worn parts" but they are not shot actually far from it and mine is a Colorado car with mag chloride on the roads. If you do love the car keep it ! I'm sorry I dont know that tire model but I will tell you that any tire that has an open shoulder will cup/feather they just do. On most vehicles the tire placard is on the drivers door jam but on my Lexus its on the inside of the glove box lid and it too states that 30 psi is its value. Ignore what is stamped on the tire and I would recommend following what the engineers came up with as they do take ride and performance into consideration. As a side note the first task in an alignment is to make sure tire psi at all 4 wheels is correct. Also needs to be checked cold ( as in not driven ) unless you are like me and using nitrogen which never changes. A few more thoughts or maybe a little more in site for you also. A static imbalance will cause vertical oscillations ( aka wheel !Removed! or hop ) of the tire and wheel assembly. A dynamic imbalance will cause horizontal oscillations of the tire wheel assembly (shimmy). I have been around and seen some tire shops do some shoddy work if you see more than six ounces of weight; the tire and or wheel could be defective or they were using the wrong style weights . Also out of round tires/wheels cant be trued by balance ( curb checks ) and from my experience the lower the aspect ratio and the wider the tire the harder it is to balance. Well I am sure I said enough and you mentioned the tires were one week old take them back and tell them you are unhappy and would like another brand if they are a customer oriented reputable shop they will do what it takes to make it right. The fleet I work for has deep discounts with Michelin and even though the mileage is not there I love the quiet smooth ride it gives me. Again take care tim

Hi I am a master tech with certification from Hunter Alignment too and I hope I can give you a few pointers or at least some questions to ask your shop but more info is needed. When you say feathering is it all across the tire or does it have a heel and toe effect ? down certain parts or the entire tire ? 99% of the time its the struts as their primary purpose is to take out wheel osicalation. Also are the factory size wheels installed ? The reason I ask is that will open up another ball of wax with rearspacing aka backspacing and posotive and negative offsets You naturally never want a "0" alignment because as you drive down the road the tires will push themselves outward if anything 1/16" toe in is ideal. Feathed edges: 1. caused by incorrect toe setting 2. Feathered edges can be felt more than seen 3. sometimes can look like a camber wear 4. excessive toe in = feather point in 5. excessive toe out = feathers point out 6. feathered edges can also be caused by loose steering linkage General tire wear charastics : underinflation- will cause inner and outer edges of the tire to wear overinflation- wears out the center rib of the tire camber wear- (outside edge wear) can also cause a steering pull excessive posotive camber = outside edge wear only excessive negative camber = inside wear only I can go on and on but feel free to say hello take care tim

Hello, Two weeks ago I made my first Lexus purchase I have a 1993 gs with 111k and I get 21.8 mpg using 91 octane.