Jump to content


MrScott

Regular Member
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by MrScott

  1. LMBO... Do you ever feel like squirrels are watching you? (RE: Topic Title) You might be able to turn up the volume as well.. Cheers!
  2. I have a 2000 (1MZ-FE) ES300 with xenon HID headlamps. It currently has 2 2 5 , 0 0 0 k miles. The first 5 years most all scheduled maintenance was through the dealer (Sewell Lexus in Dallas). When my Service Advisor resigned to be a full-time mommy, her knowledge and professionalism couldn't be matched. Service is now by Davenport - a Lexus Only Service Center (previous Sewell employees). Outside of normal wear/tear and expected maintenance I don't think I had service repair until late 2011 or early 2012 when the alternator needed to be replaced. Since, OCV's, front struts, charcoal canister, drink holder, coin tray, knock sensors, and air intake plenum (air filter box) have been replaced. I've continued with sets of Michelin MXV4 (now named Primacy) tires because I got 50k miles on each set, and they only would complain about my driving occasionally. I verified the published spec of 140mph which also highlighted the small flaw with the door/window design with this generation of ES300, The new is finally wearing off, lol. There is finally a little road noise, the seats and belts are showing their use. And even with a little age, I still sit in and enjoy my car after having switched with a friend for a few days. (Truck & Convertible use). My car has been very reliable considering some of my driving habits. I always tell everyone it's because this was the last model year for that body style and all the bugs had been worked out. I haven't cared much for the ES (aesthetically) model designs since mine in 2000 until this last year. I've come to the conclusion that I should not expect any future vehicle purchase to match this in value and reliability. Even Lexus is no longer in "Relentless" Pursuit of Perfection, LOL My profile picture of the car was taken in 2004 This pic taken May of this year. I feel like it's held up well....
  3. I had EVAP codes for a while. I started with the first and only cheap replacement being the gas cap. Parts store, and I turn it until it has clicked several times. CEL came back on after a week. When I took it to the Lexus Only Service Center I use for my oil change.... he replaced the gas cap...again, but with a OEM cap. And that corrected the issue for a long time. In the end, I ended up changing the charcoal canister myself ( my car, it's located in front of the gas tank. ugh). Not a problem since and it's been almost 3 years. If you are one of those people (like me) who tend to round up your gas purchase and top off your tank.... DON'T. I was told that's what caused the problem in the first place. That's my 2 cents. Spend it wisely. :) When I was having my problems, I spoke to my brother (Mr. Badwrench, and will not touch my car). The -general- design of the EVAP system is to draw fumes from the tank to the intake rather than releasing into the atmosphere. There is a solenoid control valve near the gas tank, and another along the intake, (mine is on the air filter box). I was told by a Nissan mechanic that most dealerships do not have the diagnostic software to test the solenoids for fault, but I never took it to a Lexus dealership to see if their software could isolate and test each solenoid either. The intake solenoid on the air filter box is around $90 thru Toyota parts [190922 ? -ends in 22] because I replaced mine after accidentally breaking it.
  4. Hello, I have a 2000 ES and it sounds very similar to the problems I was having with mine recently. It almost drove me stir crazy. Any time you have a Check Engine Light (CEL), take it to your local auto parts store and have them do a diagnostic. That will at least point you in the right direction. I was getting multiple mis-fires. Also, it would operate perfectly, then 2 seconds later I felt as if I were in a 40 year old rusted out dump truck. Normally when the CEL comes on, the car will put itself in "LIMP" mode and is easily recognized because it will not go into OD, and you feel the car jerk to speed up and slow down, and really doesn't seem to want to maintain constant speed. The multiple mis-fires ( in my situation ) led me to the Oil Control Valves... and their screens. There is one screen and valve for each bank of the engine. I have both cleaned and replaced the OCV and screen on both banks, only to have the dump truck show up again. After ruling out most of the associated error codes and based on it happening after the engine is warm I just felt it was something in the oil pan. I drained the oil, and removed the oil pan. I found debris in the screen of the oil pick up. And it makes sense because the car would be running bad.... if I had to make a stop on the way home and I killed the engine, at times it would start and run normally again for a few minutes before the problems returned. So I cleaned the oil pan, new gasket and put it back on, then I removed both OCV's and screens and cleaned them..... It fixed my problem.......... (for a year). Since it can't draw enough oil into the motor to operate the Oil Control Valves, it jacks with the timing, this causing the misfires. I just did that again recently. But it is certainly worth it. It doesn't take long for me to get frustrated when it is in dump truck mode. :) After 14 years, my car had gotten to the point it didn't idle very smoothly like new. It also would not "idle up" on cold start as it should until the engine warms. There is a kick-!Removed! post by GoldenStateSilverSport detailing cleaning the IACV.. He is my hero. I forgot how nicely it ran. Hope this helps! Please let me know. https://db.tt/StHBnDyi This is a link to a photo I took of the intake screen located in the oil pan. And for the record.... I've had my car since it was new. I am fairly rough on my vehicles. I have over 200k miles on my car and I really didn't have any "repairs" outside the normal maintenance items until about 2 years ago. It's showing it's age and it's wear and tear, but I still enjoy it and trust it. I can't say I agree with the other suggestions to scrap your car. If it has all of it's maintenance documentation, this is likely to be a hiccup in the overall scheme of things.
  5. I am curious if you have a new home and/or garage door opener? If yes, is it Craftsman, Chamberlain, or Liftmaster?
  6. I have a 2000 ES with 190k miles and I just went thru something very similar. I noticed that once I was in the car, it would not start acting up until I had come to an idle (after 30 mile freeway drive) or if the engine had warmed up. I was getting various bank 1 misfires when I had the codes read. Troubleshooting, I moved around the coil packs to see if I could narrow it down to the bad one (brother is Mr. Badwrench) and ended up changing what I thought was the bad one. Of course engine cool, and part changed, it started fine. Wasn't the fix. After highway traffic and stopping back in city traffic it would idle like a dump truck again. So my next venture was to change the Oil Control Valves and filters (originally did 1, but decided to rule that out so replaced both). I double checked the wiring harness and all the connections. The P1349 error code I was getting went away, but then I was getting error codes for knock sensors, wiring, or connection. The symptoms mirrored those of the Oil Control Valves, but with both replaced, obviously not the problem. I've heard horror stories of sludge for this generation of ES300 so by process of elimination I decided to add a cleaner to the oil, remove the oil pan and change the oil. ( I attached pics just as a visual reference for you.) I have not had an issue since. I *think* that due to changing the company where I have my oil changed... the product being put in the car probably changed as well. My brother said it's is *best* to use the same type oil throughout the life/ownership of the car. And thinking back, it's not possible to get that good of a price on synthetic. Upon pulling the oil pan, I noticed a very nice coat of varnish (which I still don't understand) and some gunk/sludge build up. Considering I've had this car since new, and knowing how hard I am on cars, I felt it was better than expected. What did surprise me, was the amount of Gasket Seal that was broken loose inside and was clogging up the intake screen. This in turn inhibited the intake of oil and resulted in reduced oil pressure for the Oil Control Valves to work as they were designed. I also found a kick !Removed! post by GoldenStateSilverSport for IACV cleanup. I owe him many thanks. After doing this... my car is like new. I had forgotten it ran this well. I've started saving for the speeding ticket I know is on the horizon. So Kudos and a Case to him. Last weekend, I verified - will still do 145mph. :snoooorrrtttt: the windows bow out more now than they did years ago at this speed. LOL Certainly thrilling, but nothing compared to jumping out of a perfectly operational airplane. Hope this helps 10% of what GoldenGateSilverSport's post helped me at least. Please let me know if it does help.
  7. Landar, I'm not sure if the antecedent is me or Ja. If your question is directed to me, the answer is yes. The Homelink still functions properly. I had my previous garage door programmed as well as the two other Homelink buttons. I cleared all three buttons and reprogrammed the other two with no issue. I even verified I could program the primary used button to another system. (I tried every programming route with no luck.) This includes the Liftmaster way and the Lexus way. I have an Info Technology background, so this is gumball stuff. I have to admit... I think my hard drive is full and is now over-writing data seeing that I can't remember the explanation I was given. Very unusual based on my anal retentive, OCD personality. :) Btw, are you familiar with Code P0330 on a 2000 ES? I just replaced the OCV on bank2 and cleaned the filter. My gut feeling is it's not the actual sensor. I'm guessing it's connection or wiring as a result of the OCV change. (p0330 lists Sensor, poor connection, and open/short circuit as the possibilities.) I have reset onboard diagnostics and verified all connectors are snug, but CEL came back after about 20 mi.
  8. I don't know if you have found the issue and/or resolution to this post, but I thought I would offer some info... just in case. I have a 2000 ES with the Homelink buttons on the visor and ran into a problem a few months back. We had a new garage door and opener installed. The opener is a Liftmaster. I have not been able to program the Homelink to control this new door. During my attempts and troubleshooting I verified that I could program a friends door to verify it still functions. I tried every programming route with no luck. I called Liftmaster and couldn't get anyone to own a call and respond. I contacted the Lexus only service center (owned by brothers who previously were employed by a Lexus dealership) and they didn't have previous issues from other customers. I called the company who did the install and was told by the person that did the install that Liftmaster had changed something recently (frequency maybe?) that was not compatible with Homelink. It's been several months, but I think I called Liftmaster again to verify this, but I don't remember. That's my experience. I've been using the remote, but wish I could get rid of it. I considered the possibility of replacing the Homelink to support the newer version, but I have yet to be able to get a concrete answer.
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership