Bruno Molly

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Everything posted by Bruno Molly

  1. Looking for a place to where you can buy replacement Drive Belts for the Cassette players in the Pioneer and Nachamichi Decks. I have 3 lexuses and all three need belts. Repair shops have suppliers...anyone know who they are? Thanks Darren
  2. I went down this road this past winter and was able to solve the problem thanks to the assistance of Curious B. Take a test light and or VOM and see if you have B+ at your Diagnostic terminal block on the engine with the ignition on. If you do have voltage there check for voltage at the plug on the fuel pump ECU in the trunk (93-94). 90-92 have a fuel pump relay. In either case if you lose B+ between there and the pump you've narrowed down the problem to either FP Relay or FI Relay under the fuse box under the hood. (Listen for a click as you remove the Fuel Injection Relay while the switch is on ) You can also use a 15-20 amp inline fuse and jumper FP and B+ at the diag port. If the fuel pump runs then you know you have a bad component i.e relay, or FP ecu. I think the FP wire runs directly to the pump.
  3. **** UPDATE and FIX ******* After 4 months of on and off overheating, finally got the problem solved. The overheating was due to the fact that 1st gen fans were used (90-92) and the connector plugs aren't the same as 93-94. So, i had wired one of the condenser fans wrong and it was rotating the wrong direction. Corrected that and the cooling problem went away for a while...the Sluggish performance and stuttering, no power issue was the result of a faulty ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR behind and just below and slightly to the left of the center ignition coil. Green plug, 2 conductor. The Temp gauge sender / sensor is a small single conductor directly behind the center ignition coil and should not be confused with the Engine temp sensor that tells the ECU the engine temp. Not sure why this causes the engine to not have power when you need it, but it solved my problem. Everything else has been replaced i.e. plug wires, plugs, dizzy cap, rotors etc.... start with the simple things. Maybe this can save you some time if you are reading this. Chances are you just bought a used LS400 and it runs great!!! Until you dump the pedal and it dies. The sensors under your hood are 15-20 years old in most cases!!! Changing the Engine temp sensor fixed the "Engine Death on pedal stomp" problem... Hope this was helpful. BM
  4. THE FIX FOR ME THAT WORKED!!!!!!! Ok... I've been chasing this problem for months.. Finally got the problem solved. NOw read carefully because these things can be like a dirt road for some people with no end.. For me, I just happen to cut down the right street before the Dead End showed up Metaphorically speaking. Ima keep it simple by listing what I did and what improvements in performance it made, the very last item I list will be the FIX to this Hesitation problem that has haunted me all this time. It may not Fix yours but it did mine. a 1993 LS400 1UZ. PROBLEM: HESITATION ON HOT DAYS. COOL NIGHTS CAR RAN LIKE A DREAM. HOT STOP START DAYS WITH THE AC ON WERE THE WORST. WHAT I DID: NEW FUEL PUMP AND FILTER~ SLIGHT INCREASE IN ACCELERATION. ON COOL NIGHTS OR WHEN THE OUTSIDE TEMP WAS BELOW 90 DEGREES OR SO THE CAR WAS A ROCKET. ON HOT DAYS....SAME PROBLEM SO NO FIX FOR POWER LOSS..... NEW PLUGS, WIRES, DIZZY CAPS, ROTORS ~ NO FIX! SAME STUTTERING WHEN HOT. NEW AIR FILTER~ NO FIX MAS AIR FLOW METER ~ NO FIX CLEANED THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR ~ NO FIX CLEANED THROTTLE BODY ~ NO FIX RAN 5 CANS OF SEAFOAM THROUGH FUEL SYSTEM OVER A PERIOD OF 6 MONTHS~ NO FIX NOW FOR THE FIX....DRUM ROLL PLEASE!!!!!! **** ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR FROM AUTOZONE...$13.99 CHANGED THE SENSOR, DROVE CAR IN 90 DEGREE HEAT, ACCELERATES LIKE A DREAM NOW! START STOP DRIVING TEST FAILED. IDLE FOR 20 MINS AND DRIVE, NAIL PEDAL, SOUNDS LIKE A STATE TROOPER CROWN VIC FROM BACK IN THE DAY WITH THE 4BB CARBS.. ABSOLUTELY NO HESITATION AT ALL. DROVE CAR 275 MILES ON A TRIP TO SEE MY SON PLAY COLLEGE FOOTBALL, ON THE HIGHWAY THE CAR FLOATED LIKE A CRUISE SHIP THE WHOLE WAY WITH THE AC ON AND NO STUTTERING.. I WOULD SAY, THIS WAS THE PROBLEM ALL ALONG, AND WAS TYPICAL FOR HOT HOT DAYS. ******** I ALSO CHANGED THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE SENDER SWITCH JUST BECAUSE I DIDN'T TRUST THE 17 YEAR OLD SENSOR IN THERE. NOT MUCH CHANGE IN NEEDLE MOVEMENT. IT RUNS ON THE 2/5 MARK AND A SNID BIT HIGHER WHEN IDLING FOR LONG TIMES OR START ST0P DRIVING. I DID THIS FOR 2 REASONS. 1ST OF WHICH, THE TEMP GAUGE YOU ARE LOOKING AT OPERATES FROM IT'S OWN LITTLE SENSOR. THE ENGINE TEMP SENSOR SENDS IT'S INFORMATION TO THE ENGINE ECU. THAT INFORMATION YOU DONT SEE..THIS COULD BE WHAT IS BOGGING YOUR CAR DOWN.OR...LORD HELP YOU...THE ECU COULD BE FLAKY. HOT DAYS REEK HAVOC ON BAD ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS. 2, THE SENSORS ARE 17 YEARS OLD!!!!! THEY NEED TO BE REPLACED IMO. MY ADVICE FOR ALL YOU GUYS OUT HERE CHASING THIS TYPICAL PROBLEM OF HESITATION AND SPUTTERING AND "DEAD PEDAL" WHEN YOU FLOOR IT ON THE HIGHWAY AND NOTHING IS THERE. BEFORE YOU GO RIPPING OUT WIRES AND PLUGS AND FUEL PUMPS START WITH THE EASY THINGS. THE ONES THAT TELL THE ECU WHAT THE ENGINE IS DOING. THINGS ATTACHED TO SENSORS..TEMPERATURE IS #1 OUTSIDE OF CPS (CAM POSITION....) AND CRANK SENSOR. IF YOUR CAR CRANKS AND RUNS WELL YOUV'E WON 1/2 THE BATTLE!!!... THE ECU TELLS YOUR ENGINE WHAT TO DO BASED ON FEEDBACK FROM THE FIELD OF SENSORS. IN MY CASE, THE SPUTTERING HAS VANISHED AND I HAVE POWER ON COMMAND NOW BY CHANGING THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR. I AM NOT A MECHANIC BY TRADE, BUT MY BACKGROUND IS INDUSTRIAL ELECTRONICS SO I HAVE TO HAVE A METHOD FOR TROUBLESHOOTING BECAUSE IT IS MY PROFESSION. SO MY APPROACH TO THIS WAS RATHER TYPICAL OF COMMON PROBLEMS WE ARE USE TO FAILING ON OUR AMERICAN CARS. WELL THERE'S A NEW BEAST IN TOWN CALLED PID.. (PROPORTIONAL INTEGRAL DERIVATIVE) WHICH IS A TUNING LOOP TERM FOR FEEDBACK AND CORRECTION. MY FEELING ON THIS? THE ENGINE WITH A FAULTY SENSOR, THE ENGINE EITHER THINKS THE ENGINE IS TOO HOT AND CUTS CERTAIN BANKS OF FUEL OUT. CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG, BUT IF THE ECU FELT THE ENGINE WERE TOO COLD WOULDN'T IT JUST DUMP FUEL VIA COLD START INJECTOR THUS LOADING UP THE ENGINE WITH TOO MUCH FUEL? I DON'T KNOW..ALL i KNOW IS ALL THE TIME I SPENT CHANGING FUEL PUMPS, IGNITION WIRES, ALL THAT WAS NEEDED ANYWAY....BUT THE 1000 DOLLA WINNER IS THE ENGINE TEMP SENSOR LOCATED BEHIND THE IGN COIL DOWN ON THE INTAKE COOLANT PASSAGE. IT TAKES A 3/4" SOCKET i THINK...THE CONNECTOR OF THE SENSOR IS GREEN. THE GAGE SENDER SWITCH IS A TINY SINGLE TERMINAL SWITCH THAT TAKES A 12MM DEEP WELL TO GET OUT..ALSO LOCATED RIGHT BEHIND THE CENTER IGNITION COIL ON THE COOLANT PASSAGE. I HAVE A 93 LS400. IF YOU JUST BOUGHT YOUR CAR, IT IS NEW TO YOU..BUT SENSORS UNDER THE HOOD THAT TELL THE ENGINE ECU THE VITALS ARE PROBABLY AS OLD AS THE CAR. START THERE 1ST!!!!!! IT MIGHT SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY $ $ $ $ $ . JUST MY 2 CENTS AND FINALLY..SOME CLOSURE. HOPE THIS HELPS YALL. IT MAY NOT..BUT IT GIVE IT A TRY. IF THIS HELPED YOU, AND YOU ARE IN A POSITION THAT YOU CAN, PLEASE DONATE TO MY PAYPAL $1 (ZULE8313@AOL.COM) OR WHAT EVER YOU FEEL THIS INFORMATION IS WORTH SINCE I AM BETWEEN JOBS RIGHT NOW AND HAVE 2 KIDS IN COLLEGE. I NEEDED THIS TRIP! MY SON RECOVERED A FUMBLE EVEN THOUGH THEY LOST, BUT I AM SO ECSTATIC THAT MY CAR IS FIXED FROM A $13 SENSOR AFTER I HAVE SPENT OVER $500 IN FUEL DELIVERY AND IGNITION COMPONENTS... THANKS TO COMFORT INN FOR LETTING ME USE THEIR INTERNET BEFORE MY 4 HR DRIVE HOME. GOOD LUCK LEXIES!! BRUNO MOLLY
  5. Ok, just bought a 93 SC300 for my son to commute between home and College. We got it for less than 2g's but it has minor issues... Cluster needles don't light up. I remember reading a write up about the LS400 needles and how to repair them. I just simply put in a cluster that worked and never got around to changing the Caps on my old one. NOW, I would like to go ahead and start doing this and the SC seems like a good place to start since NONE of them light. Is there write-up on the SC300 Cluster Needles? All the Google searches keep leading to "Send your Cluster" to LexTech.org.. I am not a fan of Sending things in for repair. I always practice the art of DIY with directions! Just need to know if this is the same as the LS400 repair which has White needles..I don't even know what color the SC needles should be.. Orange?.. Any info is greatly appreciated. BM
  6. Actually it only did it that one time. Never boiled or steamed over but didn't regain its normal power until the engine cooled off in approx 30 45 minutes. I was damn lucky it didn't blow a head gasket...I thought that's what had happened to it. But it wasn't. I flushed the radiator back in December when i was putting it back together. Not sure if its running lean. Could the O2 sensor overheat and cause it to run rough?
  7. 93LS400, 1UZ. Drove the Family to the beach in North Carolina, 2.5 hrs. Rolled like a top. The next day, while waiting on wifey to come out of a sandwich shop, we sat and idled with the AC on for about 10-15 mins. Didn't pay attention to the temp gauge as there were many Bikinis in motion around the venue. When she returned, put the car in Reverse, and the whole car started shaking like 1/2 the engine wasn't running.Mashed the gas pedal and engine started spark knocking like an old high compression engine that needs Hi Octane fuel. Whoa!! looked at the gauges and the temp was 1 hash mark from being pegged. Usually runs about 1/2 way to a little under 1/2. Drove to some shade, Hardly any power like it was running on 4 cylinders. Stopped under a tree and checked the coolant. It was low. Put some water in the res, let it sit for 20 mins. Restarted, still skipping. So I left the key on, engine off, AC fans running for about 5 mins. checked the coolant again. It had sucked in what we put in and was down to the "Low" mark on the coolant tank. Sat another 15 mins, Fans off, Key off. Restarted and car ran fine again. Ran fine all the way home and never had anymore trouble from it. A couple of time I floored it and it didn't want to just Ball out. At that point I figure it needs a new fuel filter which i haven't changed yet.On my to do list. But Expert opinions needed here... What could have happened? Do the Coils over heat? If felt like a Fuel issue. Could the engine be so hot that the fuel pre-ignites before the spark plugs fire? Pre-detonation for lack of a better term? The Fuel pump is only a year old. Previous owner changed it. Has this ever happened to anyone? I have a long standing bond with this car since I brought it back from the Grave. New timing belt, WP, CRank sensor, Caps Rotors, Plugs..all with about 5k miles on them. This is what the car used to look like when I saved it. Donor car...now being rebuilt with new rear clip: After repair: Frame machined showed Front of frame was bent 13mm. Tech School Students pulled frame back to within .5mm of 100% perfect ..for FREE! Body shop quoted me $1600. Mission accomplished!!! this is why I love this car!
  8. Good Deal man...I found them. Will be trying this out soon. Will post back. Thanks -= Molly
  9. Hi .... just curious .... any chance you could take a photo of your Nachamichi deck and post it here? Mine is missing the little dust cover cassette door, plus it is scratched. Mine looks like it got a tape stuck in it (previous owner)and they scratched the face of the unit as well as breaking that little door off when they got the cassette tape back out ... I have always wanted to change it out for a nice working unit .... thanks ..... Ok..I will do this and post it this afternoon.
  10. I apologize for resurrecting an old thread..but I do have a question as I am at this point where my Remote key has failed, and I have found a better alternative for locking and unlocking my doors remotely. Viper! Anyways, I have everything working thanks to this thread...except the Locking-Arm, Unlocking-Disarm of the factory OEM alarm system. I see where the 4 plugs are down on the kick panel...where my confusion comes in is his reference to the "Blue" plug. I have a 93 LS400, and the 4 plugs down on the kick panel are as follows from lefte to right: 1 small 4 pin white connector, 1 Grey connector, a white connector, and the very last one in the back is a white connector. I need to know the exact location of the Lock-Arm / Unlock-Disarm of the Factory system to tie into. The 4 plug harness in the drivers side kick panel, from what I have read is where I can find the wires to do the job. But, The reference to the "Blue" plug has thrown me for a loop as none of my plugs are blue. Having a 1993 LS, and a 1992 parts car, I have run into many incidences where some Plug connectors are designed differently and don't interchange. So does this mean the 93-94 LS400's are outside the classification of "1st Gen"??? Anyway, the Green / yellow (lock-arm) and Green / black (unlock-dis arm) sticks in my mind. Which connector are these wires found in the 93-94's? Am I off base here? I would like to Arm the Viper, lock the doors, and also arm the factory system at the same time. When disarming, I would like to also disarm the factory system and Unlock the drivers door only, and be able to use another button or 2nd pressing of the unlock button to unlock all the doors. Is this possible? any help is greatly appreciated! If this is not possible to do progressive Lock sequencing without adding additional relays then I will settle for unlocking and locking ALL doors at once while arming and disarming the factory system. Can this be done using the Factory Plug connector that connects to the Factory Key Module in the trunk? ******* Update ******* Stumbled across this not realizing i never came back to update the post.. Alarm was installed and working with no issues for over a year now. Locks, Unlocks, arms and disarms factory system, as well as the Aftermarket DEI device and flashes the lights. Thanks to this thread! Thanks -= Molly
  11. Ok...Thanks. Basic Keyless entry integrated with the factory alarm sounds like the key. My LS's key is worn out anyways and the button you put for the car's factory keyless has fallen out somewhere. Either way, I'll put something on there. -= Molly
  12. I know Viper i.e. DEI Electronics Security systems are supposed to be the one of the top dogs of auto security, but I have read the posts of many people who complain about programming issues, Starter and door lock malfunctions, and a whole host of other problems with the DEI line. I am looking at the (Omega) Excalibur line as I used to install these back in the day. The DEI line has always been a mystery to me with limited access to information if you happen to lose the documentation of the unit or just don't have it as in my case. I have a Python 881XP system, and a Viper 791XV system. Both are missing the 2 way responder remote. So I got one that will work with Both DEI Brains. Since I have an Electronics shop setup, I decided to hook everything up just like it would be installed in the car. Door pin switch, 12v+, GND, Acc...all that. Followed the instructions to the "N"th degree and cannot get EITHER brain to accept the remote . I have even used a Bitwriter to ZAP (Wipe out all transmitter info to start fresh) and still it will not program. Ok.. so, based on that, I refuse to pay $400 for system to where I won't be able to program the remote several years later. So I am turning my attention to other Alarm Manufacturers. So What system do you prefer and how reliable it is? My Factory OEM system has the remote Key but the key does not transmit anymore. Lexus wants waaaay too much for replacement Keys and programming chip.. $360 I was quoted! HAH~ Thanks -= Molly
  13. Ok. Sort of what I thought before I go ripping stuff out. Anyone need a Nachamichi deck? Make me an offer! Molly
  14. Ok, I have acquired a Nachamichi head unit and I would like to swap out the so called "Premium Sound System" Pioneer that currently resides in my 93 LS400. Are the connectors, wiring, and all that vastly different? Has anyone on here successful made this a doable project or is it a PITA and not worth the effort? I currently have the Premium sound, Alpine Changer which works off the 88.7mhz freq for the changer's audio. Will I need to get the Nach Amp to successfully integrate the Nach into the system? What am I up against here? Thanks Molly
  15. The stepper motors used in the early Lexus gauges had lots of problems... They are hard to calibrate and easily fail :( so how do I reset it to match the resistance being sent by the sender? Is there a Calibration procedure for matching the Gauge with the sender?
  16. I have been down this road a thousand times and almost Handcuffed for standing up for what I believed in. I have a Volvo 850 R Modified from the Hood to the Tail lights. The Eagle Eye equivalent for Volvo 850's are called "Jewels". I have a set in my car. worked 50% better than the Stock headlights, and IMO, better than the "E" Coded (Euro) Lenses where the light is spread out and somewhat Amplified in my opinion. But....You kno man is never happy with what he has without testing the envelope. Bought an HID kit for the Jewels. D2S Bulbs at 1st. 8000k. Dremel tooled them to death and rebased them with 9006 rings. Whoa Nelly!!!!! Was like Driving in the Daytime on lonely Dark roads at night. Until I met a Sheriff who dipped his beams, so I cut mine out until he passed me since my only other choice was my HIgh Beams.. So he Flips a U-ey and bluelights me. LSS, I stated that I bought the car like that and that it came from Germany (I lied) and I know nothing about HID headlights, so the argument about me Blinding him, and me turning my lights out and driving unsafely was de-escalated and I was warned to get them AIMED. after much Research, I find the BEST possible way to control this Intense light is to concentrate it like you do when you take a magnifying glass when you burn stuff from the sun... PROJECTORS! D2S bulbs belong in projectors. The bulb is Clear around the entire body except for the Electrode wire that runs the length. D2R bulbs are designed for Reflective housings but the Facets on the reflective background are made for HID D2R Bulbs and positioned precisely in accordance with the "Arc" (Which D2R Bulbs have a Shield coating or Visor on the bulb to create a "Horizon" or cuttoff line) to reflect the light ONTO the road. The Design is to place the light where it should be and not in oncoming traffic's Faces or up in trees and Mailbox letters. You can have a bulb bright enough to MELT asphalt as long as it doesn't Blind oncoming cars and it puts the light on the Road where it belongs. The thing is our eyes are used to incandescent light on a daily basis since we were born...now we have 8000k -15000k (K=Kelvin) http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-692686...olor-kelvin.jpg and we sometime have to squint like looking into the sun at night... Keyword is "FOCUS" proper aiming and focusing the beam (Arc) in the proper housing to get what you want is what needs to be done. My beams lit up the road like h3LL but still had hot spots in trees, the side of the road, and in Sheriff's faces but not one time have I been Dipped by oncomers since I have used Shielded bulbs and replaced the D2S Bulbs with factory made 9006 HID based bulbs. HID bulbs in FLUTED lenses looks stupid and Throws light everywhere except where it should be. It Saturates . Great for Combat Tanks, but not people driving towards you. If you get Eagles, Shield your bulb and Focus the Beam by shimming with plastic rings that fit the bulb base. Concentrate your beam on a garage door. Make sure you have a horizon cutoff line above the beam. Look up at the Street lights and how they project light in parking lots. Look at the Beam spot on the ground in a parking lot...thats exactly what Fluted glass does to an HID bulb.
  17. I don't think you need to assume that the bolttle of fluid you found was because of a leaking PS pump. The PS pumps on the 90-94 LS400 were notoriously unreliable but the ones on the 95-00 LS400 seem to be just about bulletproof. As I said in an earlier post in this thread, I had to have the PS pump in the 90 LS I drove from new until 183,500 miles replaced or rebuilt about five times over a 13 1/2 year period. The power steering pump in my 2000 LS400 -- same part number as in your 1996 UK spec LS400 -- is still the original one and is not leaking at 9 1/2 years and nearly 119,000 miles. If your PS pump is leaking there is a rebuild kit -- shown in the upper left corner of the attached diagram. If the pump is leaking you will feel the fluid on the bottom of the pump. I don't remember anyone adding an alternator guard to a 95-up LS400 -- the PS pumps on the 95-up LS are that reliable. So can we put a 95 and Up PS pump on the Earlier models or are they designed differently?
  18. You know what?...Thats a good question because even though I have very good heat inside the car, the temp gauge is not quite 1/2 way up...in fact it points to where a four would be if it were a clock hand...or between 4 and 5. I figured it is because its so fricken cold here. We don't usually get this cold until late February. So I'll change the sensor and the thermostat and see what that does.
  19. -=93 LS400=- I too also have a weird case of fuel level management. I swapped clusters in mine because the original one was flickering on and off too much so I installed one from a donor car. The old cluster was showing about a 1/4 tank. When I swapped them out, the replacement cluster was nice and bright, all the needles glowed like they should, no flickering, and I gained another 1/4 tank of fuel!! So I thought!! Turns out My gauge never drops below 1/2 tank even when its out of Fuel!! I found out the hard way. I put in 5 Gallons of fuel and the gauge goes up to a Full Tank!. How could this be??
  20. I see nice Fab work on these Alternator sheilds...and I also have worked with Japanese engineers before. They design and Test the H3LL outta stuff. Based on my experience with how they think, the alternator has those vents for cooling....wouldn't it be better to just build a plastic or metal Gutter type drip pan and install it under the PS pump with a drain or catch can diverting the dripping away from the alternator? That way the Alt keeps it's original Open fin cooling without compromise... Just my 2 cents. Fixing the leak will solve all that tho. a no brainer. NOw does it take longer to take the Alt off make a shield, reinstall the alternator than it does to rebuild the PS pump? I've never fooled with the pump but I had to remove the pumps pulley to get my Alternator out and it took me about 30 minutes to get the ALT out, and 4 hours to find a replacement after I found out the 92 alternator's Plug was round, and would not fit my 93 which had an oval plug.
  21. I feel you brother! I just got mine on the road as I have only owned it a few months. I bought my 93 LS with collision damage for dirt cheap and had a tech school put it on the laser Framer for Free! Amazing how they do that. I actually bought a parts LS, a 92 with Rear damage at the same time for dirt cheaper.. as I only needed the front body parts to fix my 93. Now that I have the 93 tagged, insured and drivable in this Cold A$$ weather (Damn How do you guy up north do it man....Geeeze!! Its Cold as PH*CK here in Greensboro NC) has breen no more than 35 degrees for almost a week! I don't know what the mileage should be on my LS but it sure does drink. I put 5 gallons in and drove 60 miles....there is about a 1 1/2 gallons left. That might be good..i don't know. I have found alot of parts from the 92 will not work on the 93. The headlight bulb connectors are different, the Alternator plug is different, the A/C condensor fan plugs are different.... Basically alot of the electrical connectors are different. Anyway, Stay clear of those Redlight Cameras over there in Raleigh. I used to work for that company. :D
  22. .....Looking at the Key programming ROM setup.... Is it as simple as changing the ROM / Matching Key to get the car to respond to the remote RF signal? or does it still need to go thru that lock / key programming sequence? Anyone? Thanks
  23. -= 1993 LS400 =- I have searched Many posts from various forums including this one and have gotten the programming instruction with the Door open / IGN key / cycle door locks with procedure. However I get no indication of what year Ls400 this procedure works on. Like the "ADD NEW", "Erase Previous codes" part..... Does this procedure pertain to 93-94 LS400's like when you get another Key? I have acquired a used Key from a Cash from a Cashed out Clunker ES300. The FCC ID's match my key. My current key's transmitter is malfunctioning and does not emit any RF signal. If I perform this procedure on my 93 will I be able to ADD this other transponder Key? Or will it have to be reprogrammed with a new ROM etc to match the GOOD Transmitter key? Whats the deal with the 93-94 LS400's. Are they the same as the 90-92 models? I think 1995 went to a Fob or multi-button setup???? Whats my Recourse? thanks Darren
  24. -= 1993 LS400 =- I have searched Many posts from various forums including this one and have gotten the programming instruction with the Door open / IGN key / cycle door locks with procedure. However I get no indication of what year Ls400 this procedure works on. Like the "ADD NEW", "Erase Previous codes" part..... Does this procedure pertain to 93-94 LS400's like when you get another Key? I have acquired a used Key from a Cash from a Cashed out Clunker ES300. The FCC ID's match my key. My current key's transmitter is malfunctioning and does not emit any RF signal. If I perform this procedure on my 93 will I be able to ADD this other transponder Key? Or will it have to be reprogrammed with a new ROM etc to match the GOOD Transmitter key? Whats the deal with the 93-94 LS400's. Are they the same as the 90-92 models? I think 1995 went to a Fob or multi-button setup???? Whats my Recourse? thanks Darren
  25. Key interlock problem Solved. What I found today was one of the engine mounts, the Right one, was broken in the collision and has pushed the Engine/Tranny back some and bent the shift rod just enough to keep the shifter from locking into park. I loosened the tranny mounts, jacked the engine up and pryed it a little, put a new shifter rod in and now the shifter locks into the "PARK" position mechanically instead of just Electronically. Once it locked into position the Key would turn and I could remove it. Passed the "10 times" test! Thanks again Steve for that drawing. That helped. Looks like now I have chased all the Ghosts out of the machine. Waiting on the body shop now to pull the frame. -= BM =-