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dave224

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    Male
  • Lexus Model
    1996 ES300, 2001 LS430

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  1. I just did my 2001 LS430. Second owner. 97000 mi. Dealer wanted $750 while a former Toyota tech across the street did it for $650. Both good prices, tho. They both said the pulleys and tensioners should be inspected but not necessarily replaced until the second time around. Ok then. So he did the t-belt, serp belt, water pump and coolant. The old timing belt was in very good shape, except one cross rib had some fraying where the cords where becoming more visible. The outside of the belt at this spot was a bit shiny for about half an inch.
  2. Yes, you do. The override works with my 2001 430 with 10.1 also.
  3. The new 2010 update is coming out around the middle of Sep. Sewell Lexus has it online for $199. Replace the disc yourself in 8 minutes. For an '01, you would need generation 2/3.
  4. I just bought a 2001 LS430 which did not have the Lexus Link system disabled. Got tired of the messages when starting the car in a hurry, and this forum was a great help resolving everything. I know this is an old subject, but there may be quite a few who find themselves in my situation- new owner with and old problem. I looked around the forum quite a bit and hope this is the right and most current place to post. I just want to add a few points that may help. The photo above of the two white connectors is very good. If you lift out the bottom trunk cover, then remove the smaller cover on the right side, they are right there. I tried to just disconnect the one connector with the "X" on it, but when I turned the key back on, I still got the same Lexus Link messages. The service bulletin from Lexus (also on this forum-thank you) says you have to disconnect both white connectors and reroute one under the bracket into the other, but the diagram pictures and explanation are fairly poor. Here's what worked for me: -the white connectors have a push down tab. I held the tab down with a finger and pried them apart with a small screwdriver. -pry apart both white connectors. You will now have 4 leads, two male and two female. - you can think of the 4 leads as left front and rear and right front and rear, as you are facing into the trunk. -bring the right rear lead under the bracket, turn it around to face backward, and plug it into the left rear lead. There is some slack and be careful not to pull around too much on the audio wires. -the left front and right front leads are now no longer used. I put electrical tape around each and just left them. No more messages. This should take about 8 minutes to do and save you from the dealer, if you can find one who still knows how to do it.
  5. If it is the same as my mom's 2005 , I believe this is a function only a dealer can change. You might call your nearest dealer and ask. It should only take about 5 mins, and most should do it for free.
  6. Hi all, First post here, but have been looking around for quite a while. I haven't seen any thing like my situation during my searches here, but if this has been noted before, then sorry. My drivers power window has been acting up again. I had already replaced the motor/regulator once a few years ago( retail body shop). It started by not going up much at all. Freeze, then work a little. Then it quit working altogether. Luckily it was up. I searched here a bunch about fixes and thought it could be the master switch in the drivers door. I had the car in the garage, and after managing pretty well to take the door panel off, I started to troubleshoot. All connections seemed good. About a hour and a half had gone by with the door open, dome light on (stupid) and many runs of all the windows-so my battery was running down. It was so low now that the dashboard lights would dim when a window ran and get brighter again when the window switch was released. Except for the drivers window. When I used the auto down ( past the first click), when I let go of the button, the dashboard lights didn't go bright again. Seems to me that the window motor was still getting power, and it was pretty hot. Pulling the switch up stopped the power and the lights got brighter again. ??????? Using the manual down with only one click worked ok. I don't know if this is a switch problem, or a window adjustment problem where the auto down mode doesn't sense that the window is really all the way down. I suspect it could easily be the latter, since I saw the way those bozos at the body shop put in the replacement regulator. Anyway, reading about all the window problems, my thought is that many could be caused by overheated motors that are getting power for a long time after you release the switch. You would need low light and a semi-dead battery to check your switches the way I luckily did. After I put the battery charger on, the dash lights didn't dim a bit when running a window. Thanks to somebody on this forum, I did get my window to work after holding the switch down and tapping the motor a few times with a screwdriver. The window seems to bind about half way down. It is rubbing too hard on the inside of the door. I made a few adjustments on the regulator, cleaned the widow really good so it is smooth and slick, and now it works a bit better. We'll see how long it lasts. It could do fine, now that I know how not to burn up the motor. So, hope this adds something to the mix. (Oops, this posted to GS forum instead of ES. Sorry. Please move)
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