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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/21/2019 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    I know this is a late comment, but I just looked here for some info on my Lexus. I'm a retired electronic engineer in medical x-ray, CT etc. and deal with both high voltage and low voltage/high current circuits. I wonder if that quote of 5 ohms should have been <0.5 ohms, as at 12 volts, 5 ohms is a huge amount of resistance and a starter motor would not turn over. Even headlights would draw enough current to severely drop the voltage. The main battery leads + and - are heavy (25mm2 Copper) to reduce resistance. I look for around 0.01 ohm max to the chassis or starter motor. Two headlamps at 65W (130w) will draw 10.88 Amps at 12V ( 130/12 = 10.88A) The resistance of the two headlamps is calculated by R = E ÷ I (E =Volts, I = Amps) Therefore 12v / 10.88 = 1.1 ohm. Therefore even a 1 ohm resistance in the wiring will halve the voltage at the headlights and a 5 ohm resistance will hardly make them glow. The lower the voltage the more important resistance is. This is why AC mains is supplied for great distances at very high voltages- Here in New Zealand we use 230V which can operate with less copper in the wires than in USA at 120V A starter motor may draw say 100Amps (100 x 12 volts = 1200 Watts) and the starter motor will have a resistance of 0.12 ohms. Thus even 0.1 ohm resistance in the wires will approximately halve the voltage and may not allow the starter to turn over. Meanwhile a lot of heat is being generated in the starter leads. I have found there is much confusion in understanding the relationships between Resistance; Watts; Amps and Voltage even in auto and domestic electrical trades. Once you get your head around it, it becomes basic nature. I learned this analogy at College in the 60's - "A Volt chased an Amp thru an Ohm" Likewise, 10 volts will chase 10 Amps thru 1 ohm; and,,, 10 volts will chase 1 Amp through 10 Ohms. The formulas are available online.
  2. 1 point
    Not really unless you are driving under about 10 mph very gently. Even then, range in EV mode is very low. Does the internal combustion engine shut down at least some of the time when you are stopped at a traffic light? If it does then the traction battery is functioning to some extent. If you are doing a lot of highway driving, you might be noticing that the hybrid version of the RX doesn't get much better gas mileage than the regular RX. From the 2008 RX and RX hybrid sales brochures: RX:Fuel Consumption 18/23 mpg (FWD)19 (estimated city/highway) 17/22 mpg (AWD)19 RX Hybrid: Fuel Consumption 27/24 mpg (FWD) (EPA estimated city/highway) 26/24 mpg (AWD) EPA fuel consumption estimates are widely seen as fantasy. We've rarely achieve EPA estimates on our vehicles. For example, my wife's 2012 Prius v hybrid - owned since new - has been averaging only 32 mpg in mostly city (35 mph to 45 mph) driving. It's EPA city/highway estimates are 44/40 mpg. Of course, the battery in her Prius is over 7 years old and might be getting weak although the car has only 43,000 miles on it. Her low city fuel economy could be related to her rarely driving more than 15 miles/day and there aren't many traffic lights or downhill slopes that would trigger regenerative braking on the routes she takes. Traction battery charging is totally dependent on regenerative braking. I have to assume that a Lexus dealership could test your traction battery and the regenerative system for health. If your traction battery is weak and you want to replace it, there are several companies that sell re-manufactured ones ... like: https://greenbeanbattery.com/lexus-rx400h-hybrid-battery-replacement/ A traction battery supplier like Green Bean Battery should be able to tell you if traction batteries for new model years can be used in your RX.
  3. 1 point
    I received a letter from Lexus saying they may reimburse people for this if they have painted their cars. My car had gotten so bad that I finally had it painted after I found a place to do it. They did it for $2500 and they painted my whole car from the molding up Looks so much better now. It was awful beforehand
  4. 1 point
    My wife bought this LS400 in late 1990 and she is now looking to buy a different car. For the most part, it has been an excellent vehicle and we have enjoyed driving it. For the first 10 years or so, all of the maintenance was done by the local Lexus dealer. Since then, I have done most of it and I have the journal entries for the significant events. For its age, it is in pretty good condition and I'm trying to decide whether to just trade it in or sell it separately. The left front fender has some minor damage but I have a replacement (same color) not yet installed. Other than that, the body is in very good condition (no salted roads in Oregon). If anyone has an interest in a relatively low mileage LS400, let's talk.
  5. 1 point
    Each of the four tire pressure sensors have a unique identification code (it is not called a VIN #) that must be uploaded to the vehicle ECU through the diagnostic port in the driver side (left) footwell. If the TLMS system has been working properly for 28 months, then the cause of the current problem is not from the selling dealer switching wheels. It is more likely that one of the four TLMS sensors has failed or that the TLMS system needs to be reset due to altering tire pressures.. If a sensor has failed, a competent tire shop should be able to determine which sensor(s) has failed by holding an appropriate electronic tool next to it and "pinging" it to determine it's ID code and battery health. TLMS batteries usually last up to 10 years from my experience but they can fail much earlier and can be damaged during a flat tire repair. After tire pressures have been corrected or after a flat tire has been fixed and reinstalled, it can be necessary to initialize the TLMS system by pressing the reset button under the dashboard until the TLMS warning light blinks three times. It's described in the Do-it-yourself Maintenance section of your owners manual.
  6. 1 point
    Like everyone before me, I hate the RFT's. I don't have to mention all the abysmal behavior that they cause for this nice car. The big difference with me, and most posts is that I didn't buy this car to win the Grand Prix. I want it to be luxurious first , and very sporty second. Any set of rims that has a 5 bolt holes with a 114.3 MM bolt pattern, and an offset of between 35 to 50 MM will work fine on your SC-430. There is plenty of room in the fender wells. So If you have leaking rims, or don't like the looks of the "Plates, " feel fee to buy just about anything you want with the above spec. 16" through 20" rims are just fine, and will not interfere with your brake calipers. Changing tire size and diameter does not, I repeat, does not adversly effect the handling or tracking of the vehicle. I choose to get not only a comfortable ride, but tires that last about four times as long as the RFT's. I chose the Michelin Primacy MXM4's. These are super quite, very long life, have extremely great handling, and they looks really stylish on the car. The size I got was the 245x45R17. The reason I chose this size is that they have the same tread width for traction, and the same diameter 25.7", so the speedometer stays accurate. Additionally the 45 side wall ratio gave a nicer smoother ride with superb handling. See my Member photo. I bought a set 17" X 7.5" X 40mm offset Velox Borzoi rims from Costco for under five hundered dollars, and the tires under eight hundred dollars. The best money I ever spent on the car! I am just delighted with this choice and strongly recomnd this to anyone who is tired of their SC-430 riding like a truck!
  7. 1 point
    Nice review - thanks!
  8. 1 point
    Thanks for the input, the car is at mechanic shop today, should have some more info on noise issue.
  9. 1 point
    There is a convetion in the US to put a sticker on the engine compartment if the timing belt has been replaced. If there is no sticker, assume it has not been replaced. I just was quoted $950 for a belt and water pump at a Toyota dealer for a 430. A private shop down the street wants $1,400 but guarantees the work for 90k miles.
  10. 1 point
    A few tips: 1. When looking for a used vehicle, arm yourself with information about it before talking to the owner. Many owner's manual maintenance tables are available online. In this table are maintenance requirements regarding frequency of replacement of air/oil filters, engine oil, coolant, timing belts, etc. 1.1 Conduct a phone interview and ask if the items requiring replacement (based upon the vehicle's mileage) were replaced. Ask the owner if records and/or receipts were retained. Ask about the length of drives to work and back. Short trips of less than 3-5 miles may require more often oil/filter changes. 2. Salvage vehicles can save you quite a bit of money, but precautions should be taken. 2.1 Does the owner have photos of the damage? Rear damage is often preferred. 2.2 Was the damage professionally repaired. Are there receipts? 2.3 Take the vehicle to an auto body shop for inspection/integrity of repair. The underside should also be inspected. 2.4 A good-looking and well-repaired salvage title vehicle should sell for 40-50% less than a clean title vehicle, all other factors being the same (mileage, options, overall condition) 2.5 Keep in mind that ST vehicles can be more difficult to resell but if you plan to keep the vehicle for many years, you can save quite a bit of coin. 3. I bought a salvage title Mazda, 7 years ago and saved $8000 over a non-ST MX5. It has been super-reliable and I have enjoyed it, immensely over the years.
  11. 1 point
    I'm going to have new OEM fit Bilstein struts put on the back of the '02 GS300 - hoping to be better than those brands, but I can let you know later this week how compares to when it was new.
  12. 1 point
    Hi Lydia, thank you for letting me know! I ended up not getting the car as it turned out to have very rusty brakes and a salvage title. I did get a 2010 Lexus RX 350 though. ( : Thanks again! -Amy
  13. 1 point
    It has got a timing belt which (in the UK) should be changed at 100,000 miles or ten years, whichever comes first
  14. 1 point
    Anything can break at any time. If you happen to be Irish, that means often.
  15. 1 point
    A previous post from ScottRoy: I can't say this will be true for your LS 430, but for my 2004, I tried pulling ECU fuses and that didn't work. When I pulled the battery negative cable off for a few minutes, then restored it, the nav system re-loaded. Apparently, there is another power line going to the ecu (to maintain the memory) that doesn't go through the indicated ECU fuses in mine. Maybe yours? I was worried I'd loose a bunch of memorized settings throughout the car, but only lost the previous destinations list. Not bad.

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