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I was also sold this "invisible" ad on! Only to be told by the dealership "after" that it's not adjustable. So basically it's just a dimly lit thin strip! This should be included. Lexus could and should've done better!

Hi. Some friends of mine suggested that I should post this here for more people to see. Hopefully it'll help people for years to come. You will need: About 50 bucks budget for the balljoint rod and the pipe clamp. Height sensor with bracket. 10mm wrench Washers that fit 10mm/M6 bolts. 10mm/M6 nuts Some smaller (8mm wrench) I own a 2001 LS430. The height sensor control arm's slider has rusted and become damaged over the last 19 or so years. The ball joint rod to the height sensor has also seized too. The height adjustment rod there in the red was seized, and the height slider in the blue was badly corroded and broken off. Rather than buy an entire control arm (green) this is an alterative method to repair it The arm is ~26mm in diameter. Buy yourself one of these pipe clamps in 26mm diameter. Or make one. Shouldn't be expensive. The hole needs to fit a M6/10mm bolt. Grind off the remnants of that slider from the control arm, and slide the pipe clamp over, and put your 10mm/M6 bolt and nut through and secure it in place where the slider used to be. Rather than using the control arm as a slider, we can instead use a sliding ball joint rod such as this one; This is a 220 320 00 32 from Mercedes - a height adjustment rod with a 8mm locking and a 10mm/M6 ball joint bolt. You can pick one up off eBay for cheap. Or find some other M6/10mm adjustable ball joint rod. Look at the diagram and try to imagine it in your head. This is what your bracket and rod/clamps should look like. One day I might snap a picture of what my repair looks like, but I hope you can make out what I mean via the diagram. This repair should be very easy. Maybe some sanding/grinding and surface preperation. The clamp will hold on tight and is easy to replace. The adjustable link rod will last longer and allow for easy adjustment, and less risk of corrosion damage. Hope this helps. This is a fairly easy job and took me less than 2 or so hours to do.

Did I mention this?..... I don't like the fact that our governments plan to force us to buy EVs. I wouldn't mind having one, as we already have solar panels and don't pay for electricity, but I think we should be able to choose what we drive (within reason).

At the part store they run a load test on the battery that mimics a big draw. If it holds up to a certain voltage it means the battery itself is not weakened yet. As the battery ages it will weaken as in not be able to supply a given amount of cold cranking amps. When its cold the oil thickens some thereby making the engine have to work harder to rotate. Hence the term "cold" cranking amps. I'd say you should investigate why the check engine lamp is lighting up. It could be a sign of what is taking place to cause your car to struggle to crank over. The part store can often "read the code" and determine why the CEL is lighting. My gut tells me your voltage regulator in the alternator is hit and miss. A long time ago that was a little box on the fire wall or fender. These days they are inside of the alternator. It determines how much electricity goes to the engine to keep it running and to the battery to charge it. It only has to be off by a little to keep the engine running but not have extra to charge the battery. Another issue could be a parasitic drain. An out of the ordinary draw on the battery when the car isn't running. In my 04 GS 300 for example the CD changer kept trying to change discs and the seat memory kept activating. Now I could not hear the disc changer nor was the seat memory moving the seat, but they were drawing on the system leading to a weak or dead battery if I didn't drive the car every day. Yet another issue may be short trips don't allow the battery to charge enough. Example; start the car, drive to a store 10 minutes away, finish there, start car and drive 10 minutes to another store. Never giving the engine a good 30-45 minutes to charge the battery back up to the voltage used to start the car can also lead to the hard to crank or dead battery issue. Hope you find it soon and it's a cheap and easy fix.

No reason to upgrade, Those stock wheels are Classic on the SC 😉

But you love the Covid virus? 🙄

I just installed the rr racing supercharger. It’s the only way to go bud

That one is my son's new puppy. Her brother came home with me Chocolate lab mom, stranger in the night dad Yesterday they played all afternoon.

Purchase has been made!...I could not turn down the deal I got & the actual ES...2020 ES 350 'premium' with only 11k miles in Nebula Grey Pearl (windows are already tinted)....over 2 years of full factory warranty remaining; 1 owner, full service history & Lexus CPO. Our 'premium package' in Canada is equipped quite differently than our friends south of the border....with more features / standard equipment. Originally I wanted the UL package....but in these parts, they are very rare (I reached out to 17 Lexus dealers in a 400 mile radius of me...the UL units that are available are 5 to 6 k more & only about 20% are actually at Lexus dealers...the premium pkg checks 95% of the boxes I was looking for....as the expression goes 'don't look a gift horse in the mouth'. I literally have a 6 minute drive to work... I pick the car up this Saturday.

I like it when I'm trimming a rose bush, grab one to place in a jar and while heading indoors the Mrs arrives from work so I hand her the rose. Or when I come from work and the dog greets me at the door, tail all wagging-like. And the parrot says "welcome home"…… Or when a nice breeze blows just as the grass cut chore is over and the Mrs brings out a tall glass of ice cold spring water. Or when a new baseball cap fits my noggin just right without adjusting it. Or I step on the bathroom scale expecting to have gained weight but the scale shows I actually lost a little. Or when my son and I went to do the first start after an engine swap, expecting a hard to start issue but ole bessy fires right up. Or when the lawnmover starts first pull……again. Or helping out old people. Or thanking a soldier/veteran. Or tipping the person at the toll booth. Yes I stop and pay in cash so I can do that. Or when the voicemail on your phone was not a robo-call and instead was a friend telling you "hello, here's my new phone number" Or when you sneeze and a perfect stranger says "bless you". Life is short. But smiling makes you live longer. Trouble with being dead is it lasts so long.

The cost of dental work, especially deep cleaning by laser and periodontal surgery, but also including implants.

That's the view when I pull into the driveway after work. Unseen in the photo is the dog wagging his tail "it's that guy, he's back, yay!!"

Update: I think I have got it after all the work, time, and money spent. I started checking again I found an unbelievable vacuum leak around lower intake manifold. replace gasket today runs great thanks for all of the support. something that simple fix. when the engine was swap the starter was replaced. The gasket moved or something apparently cause a vacuum leak. I had no idea a vacuum leak could cause random misfires. I was sure it was an ignition problem.

My Daily 😀

The Lexus brand cell phone that was a dealer installed option lowered the HVAC fan speed and muted the audio system while a call was in progress. I even connected an aftermarket Nokia CARK-91 phone system I installed in my second (2000) LS400 to mute the audio system but I didn't bother to connect it to lower the HVAC fan speed. Even when a Lexus phone system was never installed, corrosion of the factory installed cell phone harness in the trunk can cause HVAC and audio system issues.

20 years ago I swapped a domain name for a Lexus. The love affair started and I am now on my 10th Lexus

And Because We All Love Pictures 🙂

My Lexus is my weekend car. My daily is my 2009 Mazda 3i.

I have not seen this posted here so I'm going to try. Like many, my odometer quit around 160k. Taking it apart I found the spindle gear cracked and in pieces, but the drive gear on the motor was fine. I replaced the spindle gear with a 10 tooth nylon gear I bought off ebay for less than ten dollars and it's still working after a 100 miles. It's important to use a 10 tooth gear, as my first attempt was a 12 tooth gear and that did not work. The hardest part was getting the dash out. Those electrical connectors are tough. If you attempt it be sure to disconnect the battery before starting for at least a few minutes or you run the risk of fouling up your air bag light. Another Couple of tips - In order to get the spindle out you will have to remove a very small e clip (see photo). Be careful, if you push to hard it could go flying and is very hard to find on the floor 😞 . You will also have to ream out the center hole of the gear to get it to fit over the spindle. The spindle is 2mm diameter and even though the gear I bought said it had a 2mm hole it would not fit. I used a 5/64 drill to ream it just slightly and it was a tap fit to get it to the splined shaft area in the middle. I realize the new gear is not a screw type gear like the original gear but it is only 5mm wide so it appears to be working without binding.

I changed my oil but haven't changed the transmission oil yet. Haven't had any issues with it till recently. I have owned it for a few months now and it just started to act up by not wanting to shift into fourth gear. So it's been parked for the past week. i have just started reading so much on this vehicle that I'm excited then worried then relieved as I continue to learn more and more. I never had any issue so I would chalk it up to I must not know how to read the dip stick or did I understand it. I am so glad I found this group, the fact that I get replys with their past experiences or some what of a direction that helps. I'm waiting on a mass air flow sensor and new coils already did the plugs. Then with I forgot how many videos I must have watched, but I swear it took me longer to change out 2 of the back plugs then it's takin me on any other vehicle to do plugs, oil and filter for both engine and transmission. They make it so that you have to take your vehicle in to a dealer.

Typically, a flashing CEL means that engine damage is eminent (usually catalytic converter damage). In your case, probably due to overly rich mixture or misfires. Perhaps the plug wire repair was temporary? As far as no communication with a scan tool, read here. Not saying this is the problem but it should be towards the top of the "should be considered" list: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html Of particular interest from link: MODELS/ENGINES AFFECTED: This issue affects all Lexus & Toyota models with the following engines: 1JZ, 2JZ, 1KZ, 1UZ, 5E, 1G, 3S The following are some of the models affected: ● Lexus LS400 - 1990-2000 (in 1997 and earlier models, the problem is extremely common) ● Lexus SC300 - 1993-2000 ● Lexus SC400 - 1992-2000 ● Lexus GS300 - 1993-1996 ● Toyota Celica GT - 1985 -1998 ● Toyota Supra Mark III (JDM) - 1986-1993 ● Toyota Supra GT - 1995-1997 ● Toyota Supra Mark IV - 1993-2002 ● Toyota Supra Twin Turbo - 1993-2002 ● Toyota MR2 - 1990-1999 ● Toyota Camry - 1987-2001 ● Toyota Soarer - 1992-2000 ● Toyota Aristo - 1993-1996 ● Toyota Celsior - 1990-2000 SYMPTOMS: Please understand that any one of these symptoms can be a sign of ECU capacitors beginning to fail. - You do not need all or most of them to have this issue! Your ECU capacitors are strongly suspected if you have at least one of the following intermittent issues on your Lexus or Toyota: ● problems in getting into diagnostic mode or scanner says "no communication" ● random dropping into "limp home" mode ● weird shifting problems ● OBD port is unresponsive, seems dead ● throwing random fault codes ● engine won't rev out/rev limits at 2000 or less rpm ● engine runs like crap, then suddenly runs fine again ● random not starting or cutting out ● low idle or erratic idle ● often very hard to start, requires starting fluid ● transmission will not automatically shift, only manual shift is possible ● transmission jerks from 1st to 2nd gear, and kinda slips from 2nd to 3rd ● no A/C compressor operation ● idle speed rolling up and down, or sometimes too low and sometimes too high ● speedometer not working reliably ● speed (cruise) control not working ● tachometer not working sometimes ● air bag light flickering intermittently ● A/C going into reset with flashing front defog light (front defog light typically flashing 10 times) ● check engine light on sometimes, but no codes stored, often in concert with ECT light ● ECU not communicating with scanners or not displaying codes with jumper installed ● bad sulfur exhaust smell in concert with not running right above

re: 400h Thank you for your reply. I'll have to jack it up and check. I happen to have a new crush washer for the drain bolt. I hope I can use that one.

https://youtu.be/vnOM7RfgP1A this is about as easy as diy projects come. No tools needed and instant results!

Hi everyone, I want to you my latest addition to my RX330. A custom design and fabricated prerunner bar with a skid plate. Going to add lights in the future.

I hate the common cold...

Hi all, been the better part of a year since I had reason to pop onto the forums. This post isn't looking for help, but instead offering some friendly advice on doing this job in a different way than the service manual describes (especially for those with back issues like me, because this way, the alternator comes out the top). I recently had my alternator drop out on my '98 LS400 (1UZFE VVT motor), and although I have the service manual, I decided to follow a different path with removing my alternator, because the service manual calls for complete removal of the power steering pump, which I found unnecessary. Instead, I followed the following steps (photos to come at a later date to make it easier to follow along) Tools you'll need- One each 10, 12, and 14mm wrench and socket. (One stubby ratchet or short 12mm wrench will come in handy, but isn't absolutely necessary) also a few extensions. Optional but recommended- One fan clutch removal tool. I have found that this style works best. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/product/22983568 If you don't use a specialty tool like this, you will need a second 12mm wrench. Also recommended is a flex-head ratchet 1. Disconnect negative cable from battery and set away from the terminal to prevent accidentally shorting your electrical system later. 2. Remove all intake ducting, up to the throttle body. There are several vacuum lines attached, as well as a PCC hose. There are also a few 10mm bolts securing the intake. 3. Remove the cooling fan and fan clutch. There are four 12mm nuts holding the fan clutch on the pulley, and this is where you will use the removal tool (if you have it) to make your life easier. You can get away without a specialty tool with loosening each nut by tightening another, and on the last nut, using the box end of a wrench to gain some leverage on a stud where the nut has already been removed. You can pull the fan clutch out the top without removing anything else, just be careful not to hit into the radiator and damage any fins. 4. Remove the serpentine/drive belt. A 14mm wrench on the tensioner, and to loosen the tensioner, you rotate it in the counterclockwise direction. Slip the belt off the idler pulley, and after releasing the tensioner, you can remove the belt. 5. Loosen your power steering pump and reservoir- three 10mm bolts secure the reservoir, and three 14mm nuts and bolts secure the pump. Two fasteners are hidden on the bottom side of the passenger side cylinder head, right towards the front. A flex head ratchet works wonders here, otherwise you'll need extensions to get them from underneath the vehicle. You'll be able to use a ratchet on all these bolts, but not the 14mm nut securing the pump from the front, because it's blocked by the power steering pulley. You will NOT need to remove any hoses, but you will need to flex the reservoir around a bit to shift the whole assembly forward a few inches. 6. Now that the power steering pump is out of the way (it doesn't need to go far, not even off the stud it's mounted on) this is where you'll break out your stubby ratchet/12mm wrench. It's a bit of a tight squeeze, but you should be able to reach down from the top and pull off the rubber boot covering the alternator lug and loosen the 12mm nut securing the charging cable. 7. Once the charging cable is off, remove the bolt and nut securing the alternator to the block (both are 14mm). Now you can shift the alternator forward and access the wiring plug in the back. It's a standard pinch-and-pull removal, but mine, with 25 years of age and gunk, was stuck on pretty well. The last thing to remove is a wiring loom bracket for the oxygen sensor plug. This can come off with some persuasion, but it's ultimately easier to cut the electrical tape securing the wire to the bracket and removing the bracket once the alternator has been removed. 8. Remove the alternator! With the power steering pump shifted forward, you will be able to pull the alternator forward and off the stud, then straight up and out the top, without spilling a drop of fluids. Re-installation steps and torque values will be added to this post at the same time photos are.

Back again with photos. Full disclosure, some pulleys and wiring brackets are removed in the photos, you do not need to remove anything that hasn't been mentioned, they're just taken off to have a better line-of-sight for the camera. Installation is the reverse of removal, and everything slides together fairly nicely. 1. You'll start by sliding the alternator onto the stud, letting it hang. Don't slide it back until you've plugged in the connector on the back and slid the rubber boot over top. Next, you can shift it back further and get your charging cable attached. There was not torque spec in the manual (that I could find) but good practice is to tighten the nut for the charging cable until you can't move the cable side to side. Slide the boot over top of the charging cable after it has been secured. If you were able to disconnect the wiring bracket on the alternator, reconnect it. If you cut the tape, peel off the old tape and wrap new tape around the mount and harness. Next, slide in your bottom alternator bolt and hinge your alternator side to side, lightly pushing on the bottom bolt to find the threads. Once you have both the nut and bolt lightly seated, you can torque them both to 29 ft-lbf. This is what you should look like at this step. 2. Re-install your power steering pump. The pump will slide straight back, if you meet resistance, double check that your reservoir isn't caught on the cooling hoses attached to the coolant reservoir, and turn the body of the pump on the stud to make sure the mount isn't colliding with the cylinder head. The bolt holes are a bit tricky to find, but for reference, the top hole of the two is directly beneath the widest portion of the valve cover, pictured here: The lower bolt is tucked a bit further and just slightly towards the rear of the vehicle. Here's a photo of the mounting holes on a spare cylinder head I have on the bench: Once all three fasteners are lightly seated on the power steering pump, go ahead and tighten them up. The torque spec is 29 ft-lbf for the two bolts, and 32 ft-lbf for the nut on the front. Go ahead and secure the three bolts holding your pump reservoir in as well. If you're reading this guide ahead of time, the bolt holes are marked with a red "X". Make sure you don't miss the one hiding underneath the coolant feed line. 3. Re-install your belt and cooling fan/ fan clutch. Attached is a photo of the belt routing (you should also have the same routing diagram attached to your hood). Torque spec for the fan clutch nuts is 16 ft-lbf. When you install your belt, make sure it is sitting in the grooves properly by hand. If it is misaligned, it can jump off when you start the engine and damage components. 4. Install your air ducting and vacuum/vent hoses, and reconnect your battery cable. You'll need to go through and re-set your clock, radio presets, and memory seats, but other than that, your job is (almost) done! 5. Check your charging system Your alternator is installed, but verify your system is working before setting off down the road. With the engine running, you should have about 14 DC volts. Double-checking this now is the best way to keep from immediately getting stranded with a dead battery, and while you're checking it, you can listen for any abnormal sounds from your engine. Torque values: Alternator mounting nut and bolt: 29 ft-lbf Power steering bolts: 29 ft-lbf Power steering nut: 32 ft-lbf Fan clutch nuts: 16 ft-lbf

No splicing will be necessary. The mechanic will simply unplug and discard what is left of the exterior mirror harness from the door panel wiring harness. He will then plug the harness for the replacement mirror into the door panel wiring harness. Here is a photo from eBay of a used right side mirror for a 1998-2005 GS. The cable from the mirror attaches to the wiring harness behind the door panel.

I like wild animals left in the wild 🙂

I like puppies

I like that it is Boating season here...Boat goes in next week 🙂

Exactly, Dave! The technology and geo-politics are changing so fast that you really want to slow down and ask the what-ifs. And with all the extra weight in the various plug-ins, tires will wear faster and generate more heat. Can't forget the Ford Exploder that kept blowing out tires because Ford and Firestone could not settle on a reasonable weight limit for the specified tire (depending on which side you talk to, of course). Engineers are only human...

There's a bleed location just by the firewall at the top of the engine (at least on mine, I'm unsure about yours); pop the cap off of it and see if the fitting spurts fluid and no bubbles with the car running. If it has bubbles or no coolant comes out, bleed the air from the system. LS400s tend to like being bled parked on an incline (front end higher than the rear). My car also has bleeding instructions printed on the coolant reservoir, check yours and see if it details the procedure. After that, check the heater control valve- it should remain closed until the engine nears or reaches operating temperature, and then the cable will open the valve. If the valve is broken, it's a fairly quick fix, but if the cable doesn't operate, you'll have a bigger issue, as the cable is either broken or the electronic controls are not operating. If you need help locating either the bleeder or the valve, send a couple pictures / a video and I'll try and point them out. I'm more familiar with the 1UZ-FE VVT engine setup, as that's what's in my car, so if you happen to have the same engine, I can be more clear

Japan

I've posted this link, quite a few times within the last few years. Should You Get an Extended Warranty for Your Car? - Consumer Reports Essentially, if you insist on buying a known unreliable brand (like Tesla, Mercedes, Audi, BMW, Alfa Romeo, Jeep, Chevrolet, Ford, etc), then an extended warranty may be a good idea. Better yet, skip buying a vehicle from one of the aforementioned companies, altogether. I went through the same type of sales pitches you did when my daughter was buying her first new car, a Subaru. Your intuition is right in that if the salesperson is pushing hard to get you to sign, then the dealership profit margin is almost definitely very high, due to infrequent use of the policy by the consumer. I advised her to keep saying no. One of my sisters recently bought a used Lexus and the sales/finance person did the same thing. She called me and of course, I told her that she should pass. You did the right thing.

Welcome to the Lexus Owners Club Events forum section Its been a while since this section has seen the light of day, so thought it was time to revive it now that we have freedom of movement pretty much in most parts of the free-world. Got an event planned or just want to share one you are attending? Feel free to post up any national or local events relating to Lexus or even just events that will host Lexus cars amongst others. (please note: the Moderation Team reserve the right to remove any content that goes against Lexus Owners Club rules at any time)

The upcoming Lotus Emira, McLaren 570S Spider, Mazda MX5, sparkling red wine, lobster ravioli, hot air balloon rides, helping kids to learn math and english......I could go on and on. Trevor, based upon the part of the world you live in, it doesn't surprise me that you like beer. (although probably not Guiness Stout, eh?) 😃 I do enjoy an occasional draft from one of many breweries in this area.

What is P0778 LEXUS code meaning? The Pressure Control (PC) Solenoid Valve an electronic pressure regulator that controls transmission line pressure based on current flow through its coil windings. As current flow is increased, the magnetic field produced by the coil moves the solenoid’s plunger further away from the exhaust port.

I have always been in the Toyota family. The pandemic has made it hard to find the Toyota I wanted and I know Lexus IS the fancier side of Toyota. They are dependable cars and I need something that’s safe and will last a long time. So I am getting my RX 330 tomorrow!

The 4th of July is upon us once again. While most folks frolic about on the 4th doing the typical American thing……you know, drink beer, eat too much, get sun burned and watch fireworks, one of my coworkers has set out for New York. He is a young engineer from Afghanistan who helped the US forces rebuild stuff over there after things got destroyed after 911. At first he said it was not so bad. But at one point his life was threatened by hostile forces for siding with what he says they call "the great Satan". He said members of his family were brutally killed in order to teach him a lesson. The US government gave him the opportunity to bring his wife and kids to America. So this 4th of July he, his wife and children are going to travel to New York to witness the statue of Liberty. He told me that after being in America some 4 years his wife no longer fears running over explosive devices or being hit by sniper fire and wants to travel to "the big apple" he said in broken English. I will raise a toast of apple juice this year to him and folks like him who truely know life under tyranny. I hope everybody reading this enjoys the 4th this year now that the pesky virus seems to be largely under control. I'll stay home and help keep a labrador calm who gets nervous when the fireworks explode. He's 11 this year so he doesn't have that many more days left and I sure don't want him spending any of them in panic mode. I'll hook him up with a hot dog off the grill while we sit out back and watch a small bonfire. Happy 4th everybody.

Based upon what I've seen on news stations, New York is a very dangerous place right now. You might want to suggest that your friend be armed when walking around the city. But hey, it's got to be better than Chicago! Have a great July 4th. The weather is perfect here.

I had always admired the Lexus way. You start out with a super reliable brand of automobile and add top of the line features that folks who don't need to ask "how much does it cost" go for and add sexy looks and you've got yourself a winner. Now for a guy like me who does have to ask "how much" the resale value held so well that they stayed beyond my price range for a long time. Long enough to forget about it actually. But my son bought a GS300 to turn into a left hand drive Aristo. First time I saw it I commented how that is one fine old car. Old I say because it was almost old enough to vote in the US. When he found a genuine Aristo in great shape for less than the cost to retrofit his GS he decided to sell it. All the kids wanted to low ball him or pay him $50 a month. The US gubment sent me a covid check and I figure my son is paying for it anyway so I signed it over to him and he in turn signed over the GS to me. Now it's got some goblins and gremlins but at 18 it's still a dam fine automobile. Will it be my last Lexus or first Lexus? Time will tell on that front. That largely depends on how quickly the money pit gets dug I suppose, because even though they hold up well, when things go bad the costs can pile up pretty quickly.

That's a great idea! If they are made of polyethylene or polypropylene, you can pour some acetone or cleaning alcohol in one if doing touchup cleaning. I use small cups to clean out glass eye droppers that I use to add dyes to my castings. These type of plastics are very chemical resistant so they can be helpful in may ways.

If all these codes appeared at the same time it would seem they have a common cause such as a bad connection in the coil harness or the fuel injection harness. Ignition coils are a common problem with this generation RX but they would fail individually. Fuel pressure is another common source that would cause multiple misfires simultaneously. Here is a link which discusses the P0300 code for your Lexus and that might help. https://www.autocodes.com/p0300_lexus.html#disq I also would not discount the camshaft position sensors or the crankshaft position sensors as they can also create havoc with the engine control system. Given the age of the vehicle and the mileage you should think carefully before throwing a lot of money at the vehicle in search of the cause and then the repair. Good luck.

I know this is an old thread but I dare write this for those who suffer and try to fix it inexpensively as a DIY job. Recently a friend of mine mentioned about Mark Levinson's amplifier and I posted this to the Clublexus. According to him, the popping/cracking/static noise is mostly caused by the oscillation of the voltage booster at the power supply block. All you need to do is just to replace worn electrolytic capacitors used there.

Have you tried alternating (on/off) the "auto" feature? Does it affect the heat? When was the last time your heating system coil was flushed? There is a temperature control valve also. If you don't want to go to a Lexus dealer, find a good local independent mechanic.

I have that level of tint on my 2002 ls430. The interior really does look pretty much new. It has 185k but looks like maybe 10k. It's a new car to me but the tint was on it when I bought it and I think it had to help keep it so nice.

Did something today...

I was tired of looking at the yellow, hazy headlights, so I decided to do something about them today...