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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/27/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    It could be a good opportunity if you really want an LS 500 and especially if you plan to keep it a long time. You might be able to negotiate a even lower price based on the vehicle's history. I read recently that there are still a lot of unsold new 2018 LS 500's so the market for them is apparently very soft. Other than its run-flat tires and no spare tire, my main problem with the LS 500 is the shrinking interior which now has a volume within a tenth of a cubic foot of the space of a 2019 Toyota Camry with its optional moonroof. The Camry we rented 6 weeks ago was actually roomier than an LS 500 since the rental Camry didn't have a moonroof. Of course, Toyota/Lexus is too ashamed of it to publish interior volume dimensions for the LS 500 so it's necessary to go elsewhere to find them: https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/lexus/ls/2018/specs/ls-awd-398085 Lexus LS 500 - Passenger Volume (cu. ft.): 99.4 Toyota Camry (with moonroof) - 99.3 cu. ft. per https://www.toyota.com/content/ebrochure/2019/camry_ebrochure.pdf I know the luxury sedan market has shrunk due to the flight to SUV's but I never expected the Lexus LS interior to shrink.
  2. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  3. 2 points
    I discovered this article today, thanks to a member at ClubLexus. I went and made a scan of my copy, thanks to his discovery. I don't suppose it would hurt to post it here:
  4. 2 points
    Thanks for the posting! We always like new information. Paul
  5. 2 points
    Hi Nathan. I apologize for not connecting with you sooner. I am always amazed at the depth of friendship and caring that can be built with someone you have never met nor never knew what they looked like. The LOC is a place where those who enjoy their hobby can find others who like swapping stories with like minded friends. Landar was a great part of the LOC and was a great source of Lexus info and technical help. Thank you for letting us share your journey. Paul
  6. 2 points
    Incredible shots Steve!!. Looks like a wonderful trip.
  7. 2 points
    Hey guys i made a small video on how to replace the plastic coolant tees that get brittle with age and can crack / leak / break / leave you stranded. Its a fairly straight forward process, everything is covered in the video from tools to parts. If you have any questions let me know. Parts needed for this job: (1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01 (2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460 Optional, highly recommended parts for this job: (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155
  8. 2 points
    I have NO connection with this automobile.... just showing others JDM RHD TOYOTA CELSIOR VIP SEDAN V8 LS400 JAPAN IMPORT TEXAS TITLE look: https://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/6180839156.html
  9. 2 points
    I made the DIY because I couldn't find one specifically for the RX330. Lexus also apparently think no RX330 owner would ever change their own oil because they don't tell you how to locate the oil dilter and drain plug in the owner's manual. I hope others find this useful. Please comment. I have a 2004 RX330 and after 23,000 miles, I've decided I'm going to do minor maintenance myself. You'll need: - 5qts of 5w-30 oil - oil filter (see info below) - drain plug gasket (see info below) - 10mm socket wrench - 14mm socket wrench - oil catch container - oil filter wrench (I used the nylon strap which seems pretty versitile) - either jack stands or ramps - funnel - rags to soak up dripping oil Part numbers: Lexus parts: 90430-12031 - Gasket Oil Drain Plug 90915-YZZD1-01 - Oil Filter - 6 Cylinder Toyota equivalent: 904-3012028 or 3012031 drain plug gasket $1.04 089-2202011 oil filter $4.99 1) Jack up the front of your car on stands or use ramps. The RX330 weighs 3850 lbs so make sure your ramps/stands can handle it. You might be able to get away without raising it if you slide on the floor, but it's tight. 2) Pop your hood and unscrew off the oil cap. I stuck a yellow funnel in mine. Notice the yellow dip stick on the left. 3) Lexus put some cosmetic plastic panels to make the "less car savy" believe the car is a magic transportation pod with no ugly mechanical internals. You'll need to remove two of them to access the filter and drain plug. The orange highlight is the panel that hides the filter, and the purple arrow shows where the panel that hides the drain plug is. 4) Get under the car to look for the drain plug panel (purple arrow in above picture). The panel will look like this. Remove all the 10mm bolts. 5) With the panel removed, the drain plug is revealed. Get a 14mm socket wrench and loosen the bolt. Position your oil catch container and remove the bolt. Lexus engineers did good.. they designed the bolt angle so the oil shoots down instead of to the side. Very nice. Remove the drain plug bolt AND its gasket. If the gasket is not on the bolt, it's probably still stuck to the oil pan. Remove the gasket and discard. 6) As the oil is draining, work on removing the panel to the oil filter (orange). Remove all the 10mm bolts (red arrows). 7) There are two plastic clips (green arrows) also holding this panel on. Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully pry up the center part of the clip just a little. This will loosen the clip and the whole clip can be pulled out. 8) Pull off the panel. The other panels will be overlapped over it, but they flex enough to allow you to remove it. This is what it looks like without the panel. 9) After the oil is done draining, put the new gasket on the bolt and replace the bolt. Tighten the bolt for a good seal but don't over tighten. I don't know the official torque yet. Wipe up the oily bolt. UPDATE: I got the Lexus service info... Torque the drain plug to 33ft-lbs (45Nm, 459 kgf-cm) 10) With the panel off, you can now see the oil filter (orange) and a nice gift from the Lexus engineers: an oil catch (green). Loosen the filter, and residual oil will drip out. The oil catch will guide the dripping oil out the oilpan/drainplug panel so position your oil catch below the catch. 11) On the new filter, dab a layer of fresh oil on the O-ring (the rubber ring around the outer lip of the open end of the filter). Align the threads of the new filter and spin it by hand onto the engine where the old filter was. When it makes contact, tighten by hand another 3/4 turn. Don't over tighten. 12) Wipe up oil drips. For me, even though the catch was there, some oil still dripped all over the exhaust pipe and panels. Wipe this up. 13) Fill the engine with 5w-30 oil, 5 qts. A funnel is helpful here. 14) Replace oil cap. 15) Replace both plastic panels. 16) Shut hood and drive around the block. Park the car on level ground and wait 15 minutes. Check for leaks and oil level. I hope this is helpful to someone. ...
  10. 2 points
    We recently purchased a new 2017, Lexus RX350 and love it. Selling our original, one owner, 1994, LS400, with 88,000 miles. This superior designed and built, Generation 1 Lexus has been faithful to us as we have been faithful to it. We loved it and still love it. Its new owner will be blessed with full maintenance documentation and records from DAY ONE and any responses to any questions regarding its history will leave our hands with full disclosure of only "the truth". We would not hesitate to keep it and insure it with Hagerty Insurance as a "modern classic", BUT we do not have the room. If it should not sell to the right appreciative and discriminating buyer of this superior condition Lexus, we may have to make room! It is in truly excellent condition and will serve its new owner well. An ad is posted with www.ClassicCars.com. Go to the ad directly from Classic Car's front page by entering "979779" in the "cc-" prompt where indicated. Please do not hesitate to contact me with any further questions at woodman486@kc.rr.com.
  11. 1 point
    Thanks, i should be able to replace it myself. I just need to make sure i buy/order the right one.
  12. 1 point
    dont you guys have ebay up there?? Front Lower Control Arm RH RF Passenger Side for 95-00 Lexus LS400 Brand New 39.95 free shipping ? UK? 95-2000 ALL THE SAME
  13. 1 point
    sha4000, you are correct, the engine is turning but will not start. I did not hear any spark. No codes were read. I show the picture above because I was not sure (at the time) if I installed them correctly. I later found out that the instruction on Lexls was incorrect. The contact points (wire) should be at the yellow arrows (not at the opposite position as shown in the picture below). After fixing the errors, my car is running normal now. If I had taken pictures of the distributor rotors when taking them off, I would not have any issue. The positive outcome from this is I feel more confident with timing belt work since it is more straight forward. Thank you for getting back to me.
  14. 1 point
    Welcome to the club. First you need to check and make sure the battery is good. If it's good then with that amount of miles it's a good bet that the starter has died.
  15. 1 point
    See if this one works Swigzy Car Cup Holder Expander Adapter with Adjustable Base - Rubber Tabs Securely Hold Large Water Bottles
  16. 1 point
    Good to know about the key hole. I'll tap on it harder to try to secure it better too.
  17. 1 point
    Have you checked that the plastic casing/cap on the filter housing aren't cracked?
  18. 1 point
    Still a few of us around though I upgraded to a 430 then 460L I still have the 98 that stays parked most of the time.
  19. 1 point
    Nice! Thought maybe I should share some more recent pics of my RX, the bumper and skid plates are still a work in progress.
  20. 1 point
    Now you can see how the wheel spacers will give you the extra tire clearance at the perch. I want to say with the 2" spacers on mine it puts the edge of the tire somewhere right at the outside edge of the perch. I could have fit larger tires but went smaller and should probably go to smaller spacers like 1" to 1.5" to fix the edge of my tire hitting the top of the fender when bottoming out.
  21. 1 point
    I think you're stuck with 235/65r17's as your biggest, I had the next gen 235/55r19's and they would sometimes rub going around corners. I can only fit 265/70r17 cause I put 2012 highlander rear struts in it. That leaves you just over 29".
  22. 1 point
    I asked this before and didn't really get a reply, so I'm gonna ask again before throwing up my hands and going to the dealer. It's summer right now, so I don't usually worry too much about the traction control, though I do prefer to have it off (it sucks to have your wheels fail to spinf when you're trying to peel out). But now, when I press the 'TRAC Off' button, nothing happens. Not only does the TRAC system not disengage, but the button won't even click in to place. The dash light doesn't come on and even when I push the button firmly, it fails to click in and stay depressed. This leads me to believe that it could be the button and not the whole system, though that may just be wishful thinking on my part. If any of you have any ideas or have encountered this issue before, leet me know, because right now I'm a little stumped. I guess the next step is to take out the switch and make sure there's nothing obviously broken on that. If anyone's done this....
  23. 1 point
    I Had this problem a number of times with mine. My SC is gone now, rest it's soul. But I did have a pretty permanent fix for this. I hand bent the rod back to about the right shape, and I installed it with the regular clip (i still have a box of them and could send a couple if needed). Then I took a medium sized zip tie and went around the whole clip and rod below the "L", then also around the flat metal piece that activates the rod when you pull the handle. I left the zip tie just ever so slightly loose so there was play in it. The idea is the zip tie stops the rod from torquing the clip wrong, but does not actually hold everything tightly in place. It holds it all loosely in place. Anyway, the fix lasted years--the rest of the car's life. Let me know if you need some clips. I believe i have a small box of ten for each side. I would be willing to share a couple (but one day i want another SC)
  24. 1 point
    I recently posted a question asking advice on replacing the rear hatch handle on my 2000 RX300. To those of you who responded or read the post, I thank you. I finished replacing the broken handle this morning. Here are the directions in case you have this problem. Since the rear hatch would not open, the repairs were initiated from inside the vehicle. Remove the privacy shield over the rear luggage area and fold down the seats. Pull the carpeted panel off the lower hatch (held in place by 5 nylon fasteners). Working from the lower corners of the carpeted panel worked well. Pull the top plastic panel off the hatch (held in place by 12 nylon fasteners). Again, working from the lower corners worked well. Put both panels out of the vehicle to give you more room to work I continued to work from inside the vehicle, but if you prefer, you could pull the hatch release mechanism at this point to open the hatch and work on the replacement while standing. Next, remove the two bolts (10 mm) holding the rear hatch key lock in place using care not to drop the bolts inside the hatch. No need to release any of the wiring for the lock. Dealerships refer to the painted panel above the license plate which the lock fits into on the outside of the hatch door as a garnish. I was told the garnish is frequently broken in the process of removing it and the part costs $218.00 to replace. In my experience, it is difficult to imagine this garnish would ever be broken unless the person doing the repair is extremely rough and impatient. Next, remove the three (10 mm) nuts holding the garnish in place. One of these nuts in partially hidden behind the rear wiper assembly, but can be removed using an open end wrench without removing the windshield wiper mechanism. You will notice two white nylon clips which also hold the garnish in place. By compressing the "wings" of these clips with a flat blade screwdriver and pushing the clops out, the garnish will come free. You might consider asking a person to hold the garnish from outside the vehicle as it falls free. There is a license plate lamp wire attached to the garnish, so it will not fall to the ground, but rather dangle by this wire. Now that the garnish is free, turn it over and remove the two rubber washers holding the door lock to the garnish. The replacement part is #69023-48010 and cost me $84.50 with tax. Check a couple dealerships ... another wanted $101.20 for the same part. Put the new door handle in place and begin to reverse your process to complete your job. Took me about an hour and a half to complete the repair, including running to pick up the new part. Hope this is helpful to some of you in the future. I am certain the repair is similar on all older model RX's and maybe even the newer ones. Didn't tear apart my 2005 RX to compare.
  25. 1 point
    Hi David, I'm guessing that your trouble is setting your seat, steering wheel height, and steering wheel column angle. There are 10 settings for the seat alone, In your manual you'll see the forward and backward setting, lumbar support, seat back position, seat cushion up and down. The adjustment for the steering wheel height is the most in need of upward movement. There are a crazy number of adjustments you can set to 'on' or 'off'. Take out your owners manual and sit in the car and have some fun. We love our RX. Paul
  26. 1 point
    I have a 2005 RX330, I got a recall on cracked dashboard and took the car to a local dealer to confirm. That was September 2015. I was told to wait 2-3 months to get the part in then they will call me. I called the dealer 3 month later, they told me to wait due to back order. I called them a few months later, a year later, and now about 17 months, they still tell me to wait. I wonder other Lexus owners have same experience and how long they wait to get the cracked dashboard replacement. There are more cracks and getting more ugly. I think waiting this long is not reasonable. What choice I have besides waiting indefinitely?
  27. 1 point
    Hello Fellow Lexus Fans, Here is my update on the steering rack replacement and thanks again for all your support. The replacement was fairly straight forward. The trouble spots were: 1. A frozen bolt on passenger tie rod end (didn't matter because I was replacing the TREs anyway). 2. Once I had the rack fully disconnected and clamps removed, there wasn't enough room to slide the rack out so I had to jack up the tranny housing an inch or two to widen the gap between the rack supports and the tranny housing. 3. I didn't like the look of the ESC part and wires from the rebuilt rack so I swapped it out from my old one which looked in better shape and had OEM wires/connector which saved me some solder time as well. 4. Those hydraulic bolts were very difficult to remove and even harder to reinstall (with old washers which worked well....Thanks Lexus!!!). That area was very tight and hand cramped often as I tried to get the bolts to thread back onto new rack while wrestling with the hydraulic lines that didn't want to sit in their proper position. After about three hours and too many exclamation points to count, the job was done and rack was refilled and bled with Dextron VI (about 3/4 or a quart was all it took). Thanks again for all your support. Look forward to sharing my next challenge with the team, John
  28. 1 point
    Possibly the receiver is damaged internally. Is there any drink spillage?
  29. 1 point
    Nathan, I knew the prognosis was not good but I was hoping your father would somehow make it through this. We PM'ed about it on the last day he was active on this forum. I would have liked to have met Randy in person but didn't know how to contact him after he dropped off the forum. Randy was incredibly helpful to others on this forum and it was always great fun to "talk" with him by PM. I assume you are talking about the red SC430: Perhaps a local Lexus dealer could provide suggestions on selling it or even sell it for you. Or maybe there is a business where you live that specializes in selling older pristine special interest cars on consignment. I'll bet this SC would sell in an instant if it was on a showroom floor.
  30. 1 point
    That's exactly the way I felt so I was happy to pay it forward. Thanks for the feedback. Glad to see it worked for you too.
  31. 1 point
    When I had begun to explain how those QAS capacitors used in the ECU were risky several years ago, almost no one has paid any attention nor understood me. May be because my English was limited. But LScowboyLS was the first guy who understood me well and also he had succeeded to fix his LS400's ECU. Then he decided to started the thread," All my crazy Lexus issues SOLVED!! (ECU-leaking capacitor)". As a Japanese engineer myself and a guy who knows some behind scenes of the car, I recommend you to replace those capacitors for a preventive measure. If you are not good at the soldering work, ask him for a help. He does have good knowledges, skills and the experience. My intention is to keep our precious LS400/Celsior on the road longer. One of the most serious problems is the ECU capacitors issue and I suggest you to replace those before the board is damaged by the leaked liquid which is very strong alkali.
  32. 1 point
    Ignition caps and rotors (and wires) are a bit of a pain to do after the TB job, but not impossible. The biggest hassle is getting to the bolts that hold the plastics on at the front side of the engine. For the wheel locks, look in the tool kit inside the trunk. It has its own spot for it with the tool kit. If you have the owners manual set, look through for wheel lock info. McGard in NY State still makes replacement wheel lock keys if you have the key code, and you can order one from them. Maybe consider a second one to keep with your tools at home and as a back up--they're inexpensive. Otherwise, the one time I had to get the wheel lock off without they key, I hammered a large socket (7/8"?) over the whole tapered lug nut, then was able to remove with a 1/2" breaker bar. Stock headlights on the early cars are pretty horrid. A lot of it has to do with the stock bulb 9004 fitment ('93-94 cars went to an 9003/H4). The rest of it has to do with the optics of the headlight, itself. I switched to a set of clear-style headlights made by Eagle Eyes (bought them a few years back online); H4 lamp (you'll need to convert or adapt your connector), good optics, giving off a decent impression of a proper E-code beam pattern. '93-'94 cars have slightly better stock headlights, and might be worth trying out if you can get them cheaply enough in the junkyard. For the rest of your electrical maladies, if there's an electrical section in your shop manuals, start there.
  33. 1 point
    Congrats on the purchase! My sole project MBZ experience (W202, what did I expect?) was educational at best. By the time this is done, your temporary car may become one you want to keep around for a long time. Dig around the archives here for answers to many of your car's issues, as well as some of the other Lexus forums. There's close to a couple decades' worth of wisdom and knowledge here. Thankfully used parts in junkyards are still pretty inexpensive, and depending on where you live, still fairly plentiful. Many of the other answers will be found in the repair manuals (that's a massive score, by the way!). 1) Radio: If you have the standard radio (Pioneer, not Nakamichi), wiring harness adapters for aftermarket radios are cheap and install's pretty straightforward. Pioneer speakers are pretty indestructo, but the Nakamichi speakers sound great, even now. If the speaker foam has disintegrated on the Nak speakers, consider re-foaming--they're worth saving. Naks have the amp separate from the radio head, so basically are a line-out set. I'm not aware of a wiring adapter for that. 2) Washer pump might be the pump, itself. 2A) Start with the switch when it comes to the mirrors. 3) Brakes sound like they need re-bleeding. Follow the procedure in the shop manual to the letter (an assistant is helpful, but otherwise use a stick or long piece of wood to hold the brake pedal all the way down when closing the bleeder screws on the calipers). 3a) '93 and '94 cars have bigger brakes and different calipers, and should be a straightforward swap. 4) 16" wheels are plug and play. If you DO go with later brakes, the stock 15" wheels won't fit, so you'll need those 16" rims. 5) Driver's seat sounds more like an adjustment issue, as they generally don't wear out. 5A) If you do go junkyard shopping for seats, you are limited to '90-92 seats; '93 and '94 seat wiring is completely different and won't work, even if the seats bolt right in. 6) The timing belt/water pump job is a big project, although if the belt that's in there has less than 100k miles on it (and OE belts will go *much* longer than 100k), it'll be fine for now. It's a non-interference engine, anyway... 6A) A coolant change would be a good idea, though. 6B) As for timing belt vendors, Aisin's good, Continental (nee Goodyear) timing belts or Gates belts are just fine, too. 6C) There are also coolant drain petcocks on both sides of the engine block, if doing that change. I'd go with the proper pink coolant here, not green or other colors. 7) The steering column may be a matter of the gears needing attention (adding a shim, re-greasing). 8) Parts-wise, shop around. Many Lexus dealers also sell OEM bits on that auction site. 9) While a stock LS is a bit wallowy around curves, it will stick longer and better than you'd expect, as the suspension design is actually quite good. If you're going *there*, stiffer shocks, poly bushings on the sway bars and a larger rear sway bar (Addco makes a solid 7/8-1" rear sway bar for the LS) will tighten things up and flatten things out. After all that, you'll still slide around in the driver's seat! ;-) I'll repeat the mantra: Search the forums. ;-) Have fun! Paul
  34. 1 point
    Welcome aboard, Hey it is a 27 year old car, but a great one. Do a search on these forums and you will be rewarded with lots of help. There are some very knowledgeable people on the LS400 on this site. Hopefully they will chip in.
  35. 1 point
    Heres an LC500 in person. It's awesome. I can't wait to get into this thing and test drive. It was dropped off at one of our Lexus training centers.
  36. 1 point
    Thanks Celsi0r Ok . So another day done. New fuel pump and filter installed as the old one literally looked 25 years old..Replaced the circuit open relay and viola. She sprang to life. SOunds good, runs good..A little fumey but thats to be expected for something that has sat for so long. This celsior only has 95000 kms on the clock. I let it idle for a while and she began to hunt ever so slightly. So there are still some issues here. I will clean the iacv and throttle body/ Ill see whats up soon enough.
  37. 1 point
    Hmm, you sure it was coolant and not carb cleaner? Anyway, for me that 2 screw were the hardest ones to take out for the first time. The entire process probably closed to the amount of time you put in. After that it got easier. The screw material is software so it not careful, it could get damaged easily if too much force or the wrong tool is used. Not really sure what the purpose of that ring is, it doesn't look like a gasket to me. I guess if your car idles properly and car runs smooth, probably not a concern.
  38. 1 point
    As the old adage goes, a picture says 1000 words . . . Perhaps if we start posting the photos Lexus will finally take responsibility for the defect.
  39. 1 point
    This is still speculation, but the the number of pieces needed to make it happen are getting fewer and fewer. This would make a major change in the ES and I for one immediately go to what would my ES be worth if this becomes a reality. This is one of those issues that can run rampant within the auto world and also the international financial markets. With the ES now being made in Kentucky, Lexus could potentially create a more feature rich ES and not have to move changes back and forth across the Pacific. Paul What do you think? https://lexusenthusiast.com/2017/05/01/next-generation-lexus-es-to-replace-the-gs-as-global-mid-size-seda
  40. 1 point
    The GXs usually have a bad vibration issue due to high road force in the wheels. Especially after you've gotten a wheel rotation and then start noticing the virbration. But Yes, by simply balancing the wheels and correcting the road force, it will take the vibration away. Start with the cheaper fix before you get into repairing the cv boots or performing any type of suspension work.
  41. 1 point
    I live in Long Island, NY and I just went to an area where there were a lot of collision shop and one shop gave me a great price and my truck looks like her old self again. She's no longer the ugly duckling. lol, I got sick of looking at the hood and the roof peeling, the GX470 looked like she had eczema.
  42. 1 point
    I was hoping that with all of the complaints Lexus would have stepped up and done what was right and fix the problem. It seems to be all the paint with a pearl finish appear to have this problem. I bought the GX470 brand new shipped from Japan. And I took great care of it, hand cleaned mostly and waxed at least twice a year, but always kept clean. It really *BLEEP*es me off to see the paint peel like it did. I had it painted and now I see I'll have to have the rims done also, as there starting to peel. Good Luck to all of you and if there are any changes with Lexus , let the group know.
  43. 1 point
    Well, I did it! Installed today.... Looks great, sounds great. (Although my wife was a little upset with me when she heard it coming down the street. Oh well, the agreement was that it's "my toy" .)
  44. 1 point
    I agree with Paul. I have a premium vehicle. I'm going to use the proper fuel. Once when I was driving my Z28 as a daily driver, I got cheap and put regular in it. I hadn't gone 2 miles before it started sounding like someone was shuffling a deck of cards under the hood. I never got cheap on gas again.
  45. 1 point
    Steven, thanks much for posting that link! Many 'play' both forums and forget to post the solution back to one of them. This will keep things in sync as to this particular problem.
  46. 1 point
    Too bad they don't use Apple systems in their cars. That way people wouldn't have to understand folders and fat things.
  47. 1 point
    Replaced the Y pipe. Almost one month and no more problems.
  48. 1 point
    Leaky pipe after O2 sensor under heat shield. Common problem. Easy fix, weld the leak. Never was the CAT.
  49. 1 point
    Bambi might not have been the culprit that took out the ambient temp sensor as my wife has over the almost 10 years we have had this car had up close and personal contact with not only the deer (which ran off after the incident) but also: a fox, a goose, a racoon, and several small birds ( all fatalities )resulting in trips each time to the body shop to replace plastic front end parts broken by the impacts. thinking on this and being reminded of the history of carnage with this this car, it now seems more likely to me that the damage was done by one of the smaller victims which could have better penetrated the rather protected location of the sensor...a bird going through that lower grill at 65 mph could have done it....precision bombing in effect.
  50. 1 point
    Strangely, the door speakers in the Nak get fewer watts of power than the door speakers of the std Pioneer but the Nak speaker in the back window gets about 90 watts more than the one with the Pioneer. Personally I wish my car didn't have the Nak. I bought a telephone interface harness from Dashmount in the UK but found out it only works on the std Pioneer and Nav audio systems. If I had the Pioneer or Nav, I could completely interface my Nokia car kit - mute the radio on a phone call, play the call through the door speakers, even power the phone kit from the amplifier under the front passenger seat - its "plug and play". I should sell the interface cable on "Buy and Sell" - somebody might like to use it.

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