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I was also sold this "invisible" ad on! Only to be told by the dealership "after" that it's not adjustable. So basically it's just a dimly lit thin strip! This should be included. Lexus could and should've done better!

Hi. Some friends of mine suggested that I should post this here for more people to see. Hopefully it'll help people for years to come. You will need: About 50 bucks budget for the balljoint rod and the pipe clamp. Height sensor with bracket. 10mm wrench Washers that fit 10mm/M6 bolts. 10mm/M6 nuts Some smaller (8mm wrench) I own a 2001 LS430. The height sensor control arm's slider has rusted and become damaged over the last 19 or so years. The ball joint rod to the height sensor has also seized too. The height adjustment rod there in the red was seized, and the height slider in the blue was badly corroded and broken off. Rather than buy an entire control arm (green) this is an alterative method to repair it The arm is ~26mm in diameter. Buy yourself one of these pipe clamps in 26mm diameter. Or make one. Shouldn't be expensive. The hole needs to fit a M6/10mm bolt. Grind off the remnants of that slider from the control arm, and slide the pipe clamp over, and put your 10mm/M6 bolt and nut through and secure it in place where the slider used to be. Rather than using the control arm as a slider, we can instead use a sliding ball joint rod such as this one; This is a 220 320 00 32 from Mercedes - a height adjustment rod with a 8mm locking and a 10mm/M6 ball joint bolt. You can pick one up off eBay for cheap. Or find some other M6/10mm adjustable ball joint rod. Look at the diagram and try to imagine it in your head. This is what your bracket and rod/clamps should look like. One day I might snap a picture of what my repair looks like, but I hope you can make out what I mean via the diagram. This repair should be very easy. Maybe some sanding/grinding and surface preperation. The clamp will hold on tight and is easy to replace. The adjustable link rod will last longer and allow for easy adjustment, and less risk of corrosion damage. Hope this helps. This is a fairly easy job and took me less than 2 or so hours to do.

Did I mention this?..... I don't like the fact that our governments plan to force us to buy EVs. I wouldn't mind having one, as we already have solar panels and don't pay for electricity, but I think we should be able to choose what we drive (within reason).

At the part store they run a load test on the battery that mimics a big draw. If it holds up to a certain voltage it means the battery itself is not weakened yet. As the battery ages it will weaken as in not be able to supply a given amount of cold cranking amps. When its cold the oil thickens some thereby making the engine have to work harder to rotate. Hence the term "cold" cranking amps. I'd say you should investigate why the check engine lamp is lighting up. It could be a sign of what is taking place to cause your car to struggle to crank over. The part store can often "read the code" and determine why the CEL is lighting. My gut tells me your voltage regulator in the alternator is hit and miss. A long time ago that was a little box on the fire wall or fender. These days they are inside of the alternator. It determines how much electricity goes to the engine to keep it running and to the battery to charge it. It only has to be off by a little to keep the engine running but not have extra to charge the battery. Another issue could be a parasitic drain. An out of the ordinary draw on the battery when the car isn't running. In my 04 GS 300 for example the CD changer kept trying to change discs and the seat memory kept activating. Now I could not hear the disc changer nor was the seat memory moving the seat, but they were drawing on the system leading to a weak or dead battery if I didn't drive the car every day. Yet another issue may be short trips don't allow the battery to charge enough. Example; start the car, drive to a store 10 minutes away, finish there, start car and drive 10 minutes to another store. Never giving the engine a good 30-45 minutes to charge the battery back up to the voltage used to start the car can also lead to the hard to crank or dead battery issue. Hope you find it soon and it's a cheap and easy fix.

No reason to upgrade, Those stock wheels are Classic on the SC 😉

But you love the Covid virus? 🙄

I just installed the rr racing supercharger. It’s the only way to go bud

That one is my son's new puppy. Her brother came home with me Chocolate lab mom, stranger in the night dad Yesterday they played all afternoon.

Purchase has been made!...I could not turn down the deal I got & the actual ES...2020 ES 350 'premium' with only 11k miles in Nebula Grey Pearl (windows are already tinted)....over 2 years of full factory warranty remaining; 1 owner, full service history & Lexus CPO. Our 'premium package' in Canada is equipped quite differently than our friends south of the border....with more features / standard equipment. Originally I wanted the UL package....but in these parts, they are very rare (I reached out to 17 Lexus dealers in a 400 mile radius of me...the UL units that are available are 5 to 6 k more & only about 20% are actually at Lexus dealers...the premium pkg checks 95% of the boxes I was looking for....as the expression goes 'don't look a gift horse in the mouth'. I literally have a 6 minute drive to work... I pick the car up this Saturday.

I like it when I'm trimming a rose bush, grab one to place in a jar and while heading indoors the Mrs arrives from work so I hand her the rose. Or when I come from work and the dog greets me at the door, tail all wagging-like. And the parrot says "welcome home"…… Or when a nice breeze blows just as the grass cut chore is over and the Mrs brings out a tall glass of ice cold spring water. Or when a new baseball cap fits my noggin just right without adjusting it. Or I step on the bathroom scale expecting to have gained weight but the scale shows I actually lost a little. Or when my son and I went to do the first start after an engine swap, expecting a hard to start issue but ole bessy fires right up. Or when the lawnmover starts first pull……again. Or helping out old people. Or thanking a soldier/veteran. Or tipping the person at the toll booth. Yes I stop and pay in cash so I can do that. Or when the voicemail on your phone was not a robo-call and instead was a friend telling you "hello, here's my new phone number" Or when you sneeze and a perfect stranger says "bless you". Life is short. But smiling makes you live longer. Trouble with being dead is it lasts so long.

The cost of dental work, especially deep cleaning by laser and periodontal surgery, but also including implants.

That's the view when I pull into the driveway after work. Unseen in the photo is the dog wagging his tail "it's that guy, he's back, yay!!"

Update: I think I have got it after all the work, time, and money spent. I started checking again I found an unbelievable vacuum leak around lower intake manifold. replace gasket today runs great thanks for all of the support. something that simple fix. when the engine was swap the starter was replaced. The gasket moved or something apparently cause a vacuum leak. I had no idea a vacuum leak could cause random misfires. I was sure it was an ignition problem.

Hi all, I believe I have posted here before a long time ago with my old LS430 LEX, I now have a 2007 LS460L with 110K on it now. I have owned it for a few years now, since 65K miles, and recently I started having acceleration/hesitation problems. I did alot of research, and didn't find very many good answers. I did have the transmission and engine ECU update flashed, with some improvement, but after that didn't solve the problem, I was convinced it was the cylinder head replacement deal, which was way out of my budget with 5 kids....and I thought it was ridiculous that a flagship sedan would need that kind of serious motor work with just 100K on it. Anyway, my mechanic suggested BG 44K fuel system cleaner, NOT available at places like autozone. He sells it for $28 per can, but I found on Ebay for $16.75 and up with free ship. First and foremost, I ALWAYS used quality, premium gas (Shell V-Power or QT), and Techron additive from time to time, so I was super unconvinced about his recommendation. I had even listed my LS for sale, again, convinced that the motor had cylinder issues after reading blogs about LS460 acceleration issues. Also, for the record, I have NO affiliation with BG or anything like that. THIS STUFF WORKS! It truly fixed my hesitation problems, completely. I am no longer selling the car, and am happy again, as it accelerates like it is supposed to. Feel free to read many other peoples reviews on this stuff, its amazing and really seems to work. After i drove it to wrok (25 miles one way) I thought i felt a difference, by the drive home, I KNEW I felt the difference, after the full tank, i was truly smiling. I have ordered 4 more cans for my other vehicles and boat, and suggested it to my friend with a ISF, my brother with an SC430, and my buddy with a Vette. I guess these LS460 cars are just picky after a while and maybe the injectors get gummed up? I don't pretend to be a mechanic, again this was suggested by my Lexus mechanic, After alot of depressing research with no real answer, just wanted to share my experience with any other LS460 owners, as it is a beautiful car, and I was disappointed in what I was thinking the problems I had. It was the best $17 I have recently spent, and if you are having similar weak/lack of acceleration or hesitation issues, i would say TRY IT for less than $20. I believe you can go to BG's site and find a local dealer, again, not autozone or O'Reilly or anything like that, says professional use only lol. Also, need a funnel, comes in a coke can basically. Just my 2 cents, hoping to help out any other LS460 owners out there depressed about their car, it seems most people just said they'd trade it in and buy a new one, but I'm not that rich :)

My Daily 😀

The Lexus brand cell phone that was a dealer installed option lowered the HVAC fan speed and muted the audio system while a call was in progress. I even connected an aftermarket Nokia CARK-91 phone system I installed in my second (2000) LS400 to mute the audio system but I didn't bother to connect it to lower the HVAC fan speed. Even when a Lexus phone system was never installed, corrosion of the factory installed cell phone harness in the trunk can cause HVAC and audio system issues.

20 years ago I swapped a domain name for a Lexus. The love affair started and I am now on my 10th Lexus

And Because We All Love Pictures 🙂

My Lexus is my weekend car. My daily is my 2009 Mazda 3i.

Just acquired a 97 LS400 with 5 keys, second owner, all original paperwork from the dealer including the peel away handbook that came with the car. Have the original window sticker even! Crazy come up from working on the car for a neighbor during the plandemic. Just like to say hi and start helping where I can here, been a tech for over 15 years professionally, 26 cars owned probably more including bikes. Hope to help out and be helped if inrum into some issues here on this new venture. Hope to add an air ride system in the future, tint, visors, etc. Who knows..

I changed my oil but haven't changed the transmission oil yet. Haven't had any issues with it till recently. I have owned it for a few months now and it just started to act up by not wanting to shift into fourth gear. So it's been parked for the past week. i have just started reading so much on this vehicle that I'm excited then worried then relieved as I continue to learn more and more. I never had any issue so I would chalk it up to I must not know how to read the dip stick or did I understand it. I am so glad I found this group, the fact that I get replys with their past experiences or some what of a direction that helps. I'm waiting on a mass air flow sensor and new coils already did the plugs. Then with I forgot how many videos I must have watched, but I swear it took me longer to change out 2 of the back plugs then it's takin me on any other vehicle to do plugs, oil and filter for both engine and transmission. They make it so that you have to take your vehicle in to a dealer.

According to Car & Driver magazine, Side note: I have a Samsung 23 Ultra and would NEVER switch to an iphone. My night photos are amazing, I have up to 10X optical zoom, and my stylus can be used to: Remotely advance PowerPoint slides Remotely take photos and videos, up to 30 ft away Translate embedded languages Zoom in to very small text that cannot be pinch-screened Create instant hand-written notes and drawings alone or within photos. I am thoroughly spoiled!🙂

Hi all, been the better part of a year since I had reason to pop onto the forums. This post isn't looking for help, but instead offering some friendly advice on doing this job in a different way than the service manual describes (especially for those with back issues like me, because this way, the alternator comes out the top). I recently had my alternator drop out on my '98 LS400 (1UZFE VVT motor), and although I have the service manual, I decided to follow a different path with removing my alternator, because the service manual calls for complete removal of the power steering pump, which I found unnecessary. Instead, I followed the following steps (photos to come at a later date to make it easier to follow along) Tools you'll need- One each 10, 12, and 14mm wrench and socket. (One stubby ratchet or short 12mm wrench will come in handy, but isn't absolutely necessary) also a few extensions. Optional but recommended- One fan clutch removal tool. I have found that this style works best. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/product/22983568 If you don't use a specialty tool like this, you will need a second 12mm wrench. Also recommended is a flex-head ratchet 1. Disconnect negative cable from battery and set away from the terminal to prevent accidentally shorting your electrical system later. 2. Remove all intake ducting, up to the throttle body. There are several vacuum lines attached, as well as a PCC hose. There are also a few 10mm bolts securing the intake. 3. Remove the cooling fan and fan clutch. There are four 12mm nuts holding the fan clutch on the pulley, and this is where you will use the removal tool (if you have it) to make your life easier. You can get away without a specialty tool with loosening each nut by tightening another, and on the last nut, using the box end of a wrench to gain some leverage on a stud where the nut has already been removed. You can pull the fan clutch out the top without removing anything else, just be careful not to hit into the radiator and damage any fins. 4. Remove the serpentine/drive belt. A 14mm wrench on the tensioner, and to loosen the tensioner, you rotate it in the counterclockwise direction. Slip the belt off the idler pulley, and after releasing the tensioner, you can remove the belt. 5. Loosen your power steering pump and reservoir- three 10mm bolts secure the reservoir, and three 14mm nuts and bolts secure the pump. Two fasteners are hidden on the bottom side of the passenger side cylinder head, right towards the front. A flex head ratchet works wonders here, otherwise you'll need extensions to get them from underneath the vehicle. You'll be able to use a ratchet on all these bolts, but not the 14mm nut securing the pump from the front, because it's blocked by the power steering pulley. You will NOT need to remove any hoses, but you will need to flex the reservoir around a bit to shift the whole assembly forward a few inches. 6. Now that the power steering pump is out of the way (it doesn't need to go far, not even off the stud it's mounted on) this is where you'll break out your stubby ratchet/12mm wrench. It's a bit of a tight squeeze, but you should be able to reach down from the top and pull off the rubber boot covering the alternator lug and loosen the 12mm nut securing the charging cable. 7. Once the charging cable is off, remove the bolt and nut securing the alternator to the block (both are 14mm). Now you can shift the alternator forward and access the wiring plug in the back. It's a standard pinch-and-pull removal, but mine, with 25 years of age and gunk, was stuck on pretty well. The last thing to remove is a wiring loom bracket for the oxygen sensor plug. This can come off with some persuasion, but it's ultimately easier to cut the electrical tape securing the wire to the bracket and removing the bracket once the alternator has been removed. 8. Remove the alternator! With the power steering pump shifted forward, you will be able to pull the alternator forward and off the stud, then straight up and out the top, without spilling a drop of fluids. Re-installation steps and torque values will be added to this post at the same time photos are.

If you fail to timely replace your timing belt and water pump your engine could suffer catastrophic damage. Do it. Do it now. My mechanic charged $475 today for labor to replace the timing belt and water pump on my LS 400 with 174K miles. My AISN brand kit cost $189 from Sumit plus antifreeze and liquid gasket for a total of $300 for parts. The Stealership will rob you blind. I saw that my belt was cracked and my pump’s weep hole was crusty from leaking. It looks like I was a whisker away from shredding my motor. I’m glad I did it now and avoided killing my Lexus.

I don't like hurricanes when the roof is coming off the house but the sky sure is pretty after it's gone.

The first thing you should have done is to look at all the codes. That would be easier if it has OBD II and not OBD I which flashes to indicate a problem area. Simply guessing and buying parts can be very expensive. You might want to spend $150 to have an expert look at it. That way, you'll have enough information to determine if the car is worth fixing.

I like wild animals left in the wild 🙂

I've been researching car wraps for a while, possibly for a future body color swap when I eventually get a new car. Apparently, wraps last about 3 years because if a wrap is left on too long, it may be very difficult to remove it. This is true with many types of tapes, even those with very weak adhesion. So before you have a wrap done, I suggest discussing this with the "wrapper".

I like cherry Pepsi on occasion. That's about as close to whiskey as I'll go these days.

Before pulling the bulbs, you should look for a change in voltage on the meter with and without the lights/audio on. If fact, what I typically do when performing a quick test, observe the meter as you switch each component on...one by one. If the brake lights are showing a large dip on the meter or with everything on together you are dropping below 13 volts...you have a problem. It's rare, but you could have a bulb that's not lighting up and instead shorting out. If the charging system stays above 13.5 under full load than I'm leaning towards a problem with the wires coming from the battery or loose/corroded battery terminal. Most of the situations that I've worked on where there seems to be an electrical demon and all the tests are good...It's usually something like a poor body ground.

My company is Fuel Injector Specialists, located in Colorado. I own a 1990 LS400, and I"m not here trolling for injector business, but my advice (and experience) on these cars is this: The chance of you having 8 good injectors is just about nil. I've rebuilt plenty of these, and about 10 percent are not buildable -- the spray pattern goes sideways or they leak down. Denso from the factory. The quality of Bosch? Nope, but if you keep water out of the gas, the majority of the factory injectors will last forever, it's just that Bosch uses a higher quality rust resistant super hard stainless metal alloy. Bosch will not substitute for Denso, in this case. Alas. Rough Idle? One or two bad injectors. Same with hard start. Same with burned up catalytic convertors -- these cats will outlive the car, if they have the correct fuel ratio ahead of them. Pintle caps and seals and filters? All replaceable. Good injectors and these engines will purr. Factory shop manual (of which I just paid $350 for the complete paper set) infers that it is possible to pull these injectors with the intake on. Nonsense. Think ahead and buy the throttle body and upper plenum gasket from Rock Auto. You'll need both. As another hint, the bottom bolts on the throttle body are impossible to start without a flexible magnetic/grab hook retrieval tool. Invaluable. NAPA, $20. Best money you will ever spend. Eliminates many bad words. Put the head of the bolt on the tool, using only the magnetic function not the grab hook, then bend yourself way down to see the opening in the throttle body, insert the bolt, then slide the tool off at a 90 degree angle. Voila. You don't use this tool, and the bolt will drop into the valley. Ouch. Intake plenum off, but first, careful careful with all those hoses, and be even more careful with the hoses at the front EGR temp sensor, the one that has two plastic barbed outlets and screws in vertically into the cooling passage. Aw, forget it. These outlets all break. You will break yours. Remove the sensor (unobtainable now, and was $300 plus dollars anyway. What the?), go to Napa and buy some small plastic barbed tees, cut them to match the ones you broke off. If you can pull your broken originals out of the hoses, even better. Then, take some super glue, a powerful magnifier so you can see to match the broken edges up perfectly, and judiciously super glue the broken tee back onto the temp sensor. That means don't use so much super glue that you block the ports. You will check with a small drill bit when you are all finished anyway. That super glue's only function is to get the tee to stay on from whence it (they) departed. Not strong enough to be anything but a placement. Next, buy some J&B plastic mender epoxy. Squeeze out a small amount of this stuff from its double syringe, on a cardboard piece, and stir while counting slowly to 30. Daub this mixture onto the tee/sensor broken area, which you cleaned of course, covering all sides nicely, leaving the barb exposed. Set the sensor aside ( as mentioned, you pulled this sensor from the engine, right? 15/16 combo wrench. And drained the radiator to even make this possible? This only makes sense. Ahem. ) Set this sensor aside for 24 hours. In a warm room. Don't be tempted to readjust the tee outlets even slightly. That''s what the super glue was for. If you do, the epoxy strength will absolutely disappear. A day later this fitting will be bulletproof. Never seen an older LS where these aren't busted off. This sensor stops the EGR from working when the engine is cold, and lets vacuum pass when it's warm. Your engine needs this. The earth's atmosphere needs this. All of humanity needs this. You get the idea. Pull the intake. Put all those bolts in a container. They re-torque at 20 lbs or so. Not much. You set them somewhere under hood and they will fall off, never to be seen again. Passing children will learn new words. Now, you can easily reach the fuel rails. The supply line to the pressure regulator and the line itself has banjo bolts. Nice design, but each banjo bolt has a copper washer on top and bottom. Take a very deep breath, put on your glasses, and DON'T lose those copper washers. Factory shop manual insists you need to replace them. Not necessary. Available at NAPA if you do. The fuel rail holds the injectors in. The hardest part of injector service is removing the wiring clips from the injectors. The little tab pushes down, and the clip pulls off. Don't rush this step. Don't yank without being sure the clip is released. Push down, then pull up. If you successfully get all the clips off without breaking some you qualify for a trophy of some type. Perhaps an old bowling trophy, or a second place spelling ribbon, etc. Indeed, you are truly a master mechanic. Buy quality new injectors if you can, but you can't. Don't buy Ultra. Chinese garbage. Not worth the effort to toss in the recycle bin. Rock has rebuilds, but we kick back about 15% of them because they are defective, usually pattern problems. Or they leak down. Slow engine death. Perfect injectors and this old girl purrs. Oh yeah. There is a cold start injector at the bottom of the intake plenum. Unobtainable. We can clean and build them. If they're not rotted out. We are junkyard doggies. A proud thing. When the occasional first gen LS400 comes into the wrecking yards, we grab extra injectors, computer, complete padded dash and glove box door if possible (very rare), all the missing top engine shrouds, a mass air flow sensor, throttle position sensors (plural), door lock motors if needed, etc. Final note. Don't think you can upgrade from the Pioneer radio to the Nakamichi. Ain't like the Buick Riviera with Bose GOLD. All the good stuff is in the radio, not due to additional active amps in the door units. Nakamichi rear speaker is a monster, but needs its own amp in the back. Meaning the wiring harness. Meaning the wiring harness is completely different at the radio. Oh well. Life is too short. And Interior? Went with the Katzkin leather, $1000 plus. We shall see. Doesn't have that extra double pleat in the center, but we'll live with that.

No idea the sticker price but I'd say "if ya gotta ask ya probably can't afford it"…… I typically wait for cars to become old enough to fall into my price range but I doubt I'll live long enough for one of the LES cars 💀

There's a bleed location just by the firewall at the top of the engine (at least on mine, I'm unsure about yours); pop the cap off of it and see if the fitting spurts fluid and no bubbles with the car running. If it has bubbles or no coolant comes out, bleed the air from the system. LS400s tend to like being bled parked on an incline (front end higher than the rear). My car also has bleeding instructions printed on the coolant reservoir, check yours and see if it details the procedure. After that, check the heater control valve- it should remain closed until the engine nears or reaches operating temperature, and then the cable will open the valve. If the valve is broken, it's a fairly quick fix, but if the cable doesn't operate, you'll have a bigger issue, as the cable is either broken or the electronic controls are not operating. If you need help locating either the bleeder or the valve, send a couple pictures / a video and I'll try and point them out. I'm more familiar with the 1UZ-FE VVT engine setup, as that's what's in my car, so if you happen to have the same engine, I can be more clear

Welcome to the Lexus Owners Club Events forum section Its been a while since this section has seen the light of day, so thought it was time to revive it now that we have freedom of movement pretty much in most parts of the free-world. Got an event planned or just want to share one you are attending? Feel free to post up any national or local events relating to Lexus or even just events that will host Lexus cars amongst others. (please note: the Moderation Team reserve the right to remove any content that goes against Lexus Owners Club rules at any time)

My God, how old are you, 90?😏

What is P0778 LEXUS code meaning? The Pressure Control (PC) Solenoid Valve an electronic pressure regulator that controls transmission line pressure based on current flow through its coil windings. As current flow is increased, the magnetic field produced by the coil moves the solenoid’s plunger further away from the exhaust port.

Because LFA's are one hell of a car 🙂 And we love Lexus 😉

I have always been in the Toyota family. The pandemic has made it hard to find the Toyota I wanted and I know Lexus IS the fancier side of Toyota. They are dependable cars and I need something that’s safe and will last a long time. So I am getting my RX 330 tomorrow!

I can go back even earlier than that Mike where the heater in the car was an optional extra and all the interior was metal so it was absolutely freezing in winter 😞

I had always admired the Lexus way. You start out with a super reliable brand of automobile and add top of the line features that folks who don't need to ask "how much does it cost" go for and add sexy looks and you've got yourself a winner. Now for a guy like me who does have to ask "how much" the resale value held so well that they stayed beyond my price range for a long time. Long enough to forget about it actually. But my son bought a GS300 to turn into a left hand drive Aristo. First time I saw it I commented how that is one fine old car. Old I say because it was almost old enough to vote in the US. When he found a genuine Aristo in great shape for less than the cost to retrofit his GS he decided to sell it. All the kids wanted to low ball him or pay him $50 a month. The US gubment sent me a covid check and I figure my son is paying for it anyway so I signed it over to him and he in turn signed over the GS to me. Now it's got some goblins and gremlins but at 18 it's still a dam fine automobile. Will it be my last Lexus or first Lexus? Time will tell on that front. That largely depends on how quickly the money pit gets dug I suppose, because even though they hold up well, when things go bad the costs can pile up pretty quickly.

I get to drive my Lexus past my neighbors house while fixes his beamer (again).

I know this is an old thread but I dare write this for those who suffer and try to fix it inexpensively as a DIY job. Recently a friend of mine mentioned about Mark Levinson's amplifier and I posted this to the Clublexus. According to him, the popping/cracking/static noise is mostly caused by the oscillation of the voltage booster at the power supply block. All you need to do is just to replace worn electrolytic capacitors used there.

A few new pics in the sun. Quite a few updates including LED lighting inside and out and the LED yellow fog lights, and of course, the new wheels. Need to tweak ride height a little more, but nothing drastic. Loving this LS430 more and more every day, with 205k miles on the clock now.

Starting in 2006 they went to the 6 speed transmission! Just sayin!

Several Toyota models (e.g. Highlander, Sienna) used the same brake system that the 2010-2015 Lexus RX used - rotors, pads, everything. I don't remember about the RX but I do remember there being a service campaign that addressed brake disc warping and vibration on the generation 3 Sienna. I have a 2014 Sienna but mine never developed the problems. I did modify components under the vehicle that directed brake cooling airflow per the service bulletin "just in case". I've wondered why I've never had the problems reported by many others especially since my Sienna Limited is heavier than any Highlander or RX and likely stresses the brakes more. One reason might be because I've paid extremely close attention to lug nut torque. Uneven and/or over torquing lug nuts is a known common cause of brake rotor warping. The correct lug nut torque on the RX, Highlander, Sienna and most other vehicles manufactured by Toyota is only 76 ft. lbs. An air wrench should never be used to tighten these lug nuts and they should always be tightened with a manual torque wrench. I've had both Lexus and Toyota dealers tighten lug nuts to over 200 ft. lbs. on too many occasions. One service manager swore that his mechanics never used air wrenches on lug nuts but I then watched as one of his mechanics had to use an air wrench to remove the lug nuts that one of his mechanics had just over-tightened. I've learned to always check lug nut torque with my own torque wrench after someone else messes with my wheels. If I hadn't done that, I wouldn't have been able to change a flat tire on one trip. So ... my 2014 Sienna that has the same brake system as the 2012 RX and is on the original brake rotors and pads front and back at 94,xxx miles. Based on the wear rate, I'll have the original front and rear pads replaced at the same time and the original rotors turned at a little over 110,000 miles when the pads will by then be worn down to the 1 mm minimum specification. Yes, only 1 millimeter of pad thickness is the minimum specification for most Lexus and Toyota vehicles. 1 mm looks scary to the uninformed which is why so many people get scammed into premature brake work. On Lexus vehicles that have electronic brake pad were sensors, the low pad warning in the instrument cluster starts when a brake pad is worn down to about 1.5 mm. My recommendation is to buy a torque wrench if you don't already have one and check and re-torque lug nuts after each time someone removes and re-installs your wheels.

Welcome to the Lexus Owners Club Charles! Pearl white is one of my fave colors.

Nice! Thought maybe I should share some more recent pics of my RX, the bumper and skid plates are still a work in progress.

I discovered this article today, thanks to a member at ClubLexus. I went and made a scan of my copy, thanks to his discovery. I don't suppose it would hurt to post it here:

Hey guys i made a small video on how to replace the plastic coolant tees that get brittle with age and can crack / leak / break / leave you stranded. Its a fairly straight forward process, everything is covered in the video from tools to parts. If you have any questions let me know. Parts needed for this job: (1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01 (2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460 Optional, highly recommended parts for this job: (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155