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  1. 2 points
    It could be a good opportunity if you really want an LS 500 and especially if you plan to keep it a long time. You might be able to negotiate a even lower price based on the vehicle's history. I read recently that there are still a lot of unsold new 2018 LS 500's so the market for them is apparently very soft. Other than its run-flat tires and no spare tire, my main problem with the LS 500 is the shrinking interior which now has a volume within a tenth of a cubic foot of the space of a 2019 Toyota Camry with its optional moonroof. The Camry we rented 6 weeks ago was actually roomier than an LS 500 since the rental Camry didn't have a moonroof. Of course, Toyota/Lexus is too ashamed of it to publish interior volume dimensions for the LS 500 so it's necessary to go elsewhere to find them: https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/lexus/ls/2018/specs/ls-awd-398085 Lexus LS 500 - Passenger Volume (cu. ft.): 99.4 Toyota Camry (with moonroof) - 99.3 cu. ft. per https://www.toyota.com/content/ebrochure/2019/camry_ebrochure.pdf I know the luxury sedan market has shrunk due to the flight to SUV's but I never expected the Lexus LS interior to shrink.
  2. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  3. 2 points
    I discovered this article today, thanks to a member at ClubLexus. I went and made a scan of my copy, thanks to his discovery. I don't suppose it would hurt to post it here:
  4. 2 points
    Thanks for the posting! We always like new information. Paul
  5. 2 points
    Hi Nathan. I apologize for not connecting with you sooner. I am always amazed at the depth of friendship and caring that can be built with someone you have never met nor never knew what they looked like. The LOC is a place where those who enjoy their hobby can find others who like swapping stories with like minded friends. Landar was a great part of the LOC and was a great source of Lexus info and technical help. Thank you for letting us share your journey. Paul
  6. 2 points
    Incredible shots Steve!!. Looks like a wonderful trip.
  7. 2 points
    Hey guys i made a small video on how to replace the plastic coolant tees that get brittle with age and can crack / leak / break / leave you stranded. Its a fairly straight forward process, everything is covered in the video from tools to parts. If you have any questions let me know. Parts needed for this job: (1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01 (2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460 Optional, highly recommended parts for this job: (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155
  8. 2 points
    I have NO connection with this automobile.... just showing others JDM RHD TOYOTA CELSIOR VIP SEDAN V8 LS400 JAPAN IMPORT TEXAS TITLE look: https://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/6180839156.html
  9. 2 points
    I made the DIY because I couldn't find one specifically for the RX330. Lexus also apparently think no RX330 owner would ever change their own oil because they don't tell you how to locate the oil dilter and drain plug in the owner's manual. I hope others find this useful. Please comment. I have a 2004 RX330 and after 23,000 miles, I've decided I'm going to do minor maintenance myself. You'll need: - 5qts of 5w-30 oil - oil filter (see info below) - drain plug gasket (see info below) - 10mm socket wrench - 14mm socket wrench - oil catch container - oil filter wrench (I used the nylon strap which seems pretty versitile) - either jack stands or ramps - funnel - rags to soak up dripping oil Part numbers: Lexus parts: 90430-12031 - Gasket Oil Drain Plug 90915-YZZD1-01 - Oil Filter - 6 Cylinder Toyota equivalent: 904-3012028 or 3012031 drain plug gasket $1.04 089-2202011 oil filter $4.99 1) Jack up the front of your car on stands or use ramps. The RX330 weighs 3850 lbs so make sure your ramps/stands can handle it. You might be able to get away without raising it if you slide on the floor, but it's tight. 2) Pop your hood and unscrew off the oil cap. I stuck a yellow funnel in mine. Notice the yellow dip stick on the left. 3) Lexus put some cosmetic plastic panels to make the "less car savy" believe the car is a magic transportation pod with no ugly mechanical internals. You'll need to remove two of them to access the filter and drain plug. The orange highlight is the panel that hides the filter, and the purple arrow shows where the panel that hides the drain plug is. 4) Get under the car to look for the drain plug panel (purple arrow in above picture). The panel will look like this. Remove all the 10mm bolts. 5) With the panel removed, the drain plug is revealed. Get a 14mm socket wrench and loosen the bolt. Position your oil catch container and remove the bolt. Lexus engineers did good.. they designed the bolt angle so the oil shoots down instead of to the side. Very nice. Remove the drain plug bolt AND its gasket. If the gasket is not on the bolt, it's probably still stuck to the oil pan. Remove the gasket and discard. 6) As the oil is draining, work on removing the panel to the oil filter (orange). Remove all the 10mm bolts (red arrows). 7) There are two plastic clips (green arrows) also holding this panel on. Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully pry up the center part of the clip just a little. This will loosen the clip and the whole clip can be pulled out. 8) Pull off the panel. The other panels will be overlapped over it, but they flex enough to allow you to remove it. This is what it looks like without the panel. 9) After the oil is done draining, put the new gasket on the bolt and replace the bolt. Tighten the bolt for a good seal but don't over tighten. I don't know the official torque yet. Wipe up the oily bolt. UPDATE: I got the Lexus service info... Torque the drain plug to 33ft-lbs (45Nm, 459 kgf-cm) 10) With the panel off, you can now see the oil filter (orange) and a nice gift from the Lexus engineers: an oil catch (green). Loosen the filter, and residual oil will drip out. The oil catch will guide the dripping oil out the oilpan/drainplug panel so position your oil catch below the catch. 11) On the new filter, dab a layer of fresh oil on the O-ring (the rubber ring around the outer lip of the open end of the filter). Align the threads of the new filter and spin it by hand onto the engine where the old filter was. When it makes contact, tighten by hand another 3/4 turn. Don't over tighten. 12) Wipe up oil drips. For me, even though the catch was there, some oil still dripped all over the exhaust pipe and panels. Wipe this up. 13) Fill the engine with 5w-30 oil, 5 qts. A funnel is helpful here. 14) Replace oil cap. 15) Replace both plastic panels. 16) Shut hood and drive around the block. Park the car on level ground and wait 15 minutes. Check for leaks and oil level. I hope this is helpful to someone. ...
  10. 2 points
    We recently purchased a new 2017, Lexus RX350 and love it. Selling our original, one owner, 1994, LS400, with 88,000 miles. This superior designed and built, Generation 1 Lexus has been faithful to us as we have been faithful to it. We loved it and still love it. Its new owner will be blessed with full maintenance documentation and records from DAY ONE and any responses to any questions regarding its history will leave our hands with full disclosure of only "the truth". We would not hesitate to keep it and insure it with Hagerty Insurance as a "modern classic", BUT we do not have the room. If it should not sell to the right appreciative and discriminating buyer of this superior condition Lexus, we may have to make room! It is in truly excellent condition and will serve its new owner well. An ad is posted with www.ClassicCars.com. Go to the ad directly from Classic Car's front page by entering "979779" in the "cc-" prompt where indicated. Please do not hesitate to contact me with any further questions at woodman486@kc.rr.com.
  11. 2 points
  12. 1 point
    Barbara H, I agree with paying to get another diagnosis, as hopefully you might get an explanation as to why the trunk release and fan speeds are affected with your nav screen issues. That said, a recent 2 part YouTube video on a Subaru water leak caused a TPMS failure (module is under the driver's seat in a subie and shorted out due to water flooding) that also caused the radio to malfunction, the speedometer not to work, and a complete communications failure of the diagnostics system for the car. Once the car was dried out and the TPMS module replaced, the radio, speedo and OBDII communications all started to work again. What I'm getting at is that many of your car's systems' issues can sometimes be caused by just one part failure. Maybe they are all related? Your best bet after the 2nd diagnosis is a refurbished unit if it backs up your first diagnosis. Its the cheapest route for you on a 9 year old car. (And no, you can't have the one from my wife's car.) Good Luck!
  13. 1 point
    Looks like it's designed just for you and Mongolia!! Paul
  14. 1 point
    Drove some muddy trails last night. The car did way better than i expected.
  15. 1 point
    A Lexus Field Tech Specialist made me aware of an aftermarket harness for LC500. Car Tunes in Largo, FL located the harness via a simple internet search and attached a standard front or rear camera. They did the installation for $600 total. The harness allows the camera to integrate with the stock display. When parking just push button on dash and front camera is on for 20 seconds. If you need more time, just push button again. Attached are pictures of camera in grill-(no cutting needed), picture of button and front camera view. Works like a charm-no longer stress parking. Also note carbon fiber wrap to door sills-looks great.
  16. 1 point
    Use your hand to pound on top of the instrument cluster will do the trick. It happened to my 96 two years ago. After pounding three or four times every few days in the morning, the problem went away, don't know when it will come back but that was a temporary fix.
  17. 1 point
    as a NEW member, the FIRST thing you need to do is SEARCH other people's steering problems, this has been covered for years. there are even videos showing you how to fix it.. THEN if you dont understand, ask for help. a 5 cent garden hose washer will fix it (usually). see videos.. 2 screws to remove the covers, then 3 screws to remove the plate and you are looking at it.
  18. 1 point
    Good to know about the key hole. I'll tap on it harder to try to secure it better too.
  19. 1 point
    If you want to save $350 or more, you can also carefully remove the sensor, drill out a 1/16 through hole at the center of the rotary arm & stationary portion...then screw the rotary arm back in place with a tiny screw. I just finished this on mine & it works great. **Just make sure you have a low profile screw head so it doesn't bind into the silver sway arm. Also, you want to wallow out the rotary arm hole a little bigger than the screw - that way the screw only holds into the stationary sensor portion. You don't want the rotary arm engaged w/ the screw trying to turn it. I kept bumping the "trunk close" button when trying to pull away the trunk lid trim. If you remove the 2 top right fuses 10A & 5A in the left trunk fuse block, the trunk lights & trunk operation will stop while you work on the sensor.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Still a few of us around though I upgraded to a 430 then 460L I still have the 98 that stays parked most of the time.
  22. 1 point
    So got a reply, said any Toyota dealer can do lease work on a Lexus if no Lex dealer available. Now we know and knowledge is power! 🙂
  23. 1 point
    Oh wow! a fascinating country to visit....make sure you post up some photos, especially if you visit the Lexus factory
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    I asked this before and didn't really get a reply, so I'm gonna ask again before throwing up my hands and going to the dealer. It's summer right now, so I don't usually worry too much about the traction control, though I do prefer to have it off (it sucks to have your wheels fail to spinf when you're trying to peel out). But now, when I press the 'TRAC Off' button, nothing happens. Not only does the TRAC system not disengage, but the button won't even click in to place. The dash light doesn't come on and even when I push the button firmly, it fails to click in and stay depressed. This leads me to believe that it could be the button and not the whole system, though that may just be wishful thinking on my part. If any of you have any ideas or have encountered this issue before, leet me know, because right now I'm a little stumped. I guess the next step is to take out the switch and make sure there's nothing obviously broken on that. If anyone's done this....
  26. 1 point
    I had this same issue with my'95 SC400 a couple years ago. The 'bar' mentioned by the dealer is no more than a short metal rod and used ones can usually be found on eBay for a few bucks. Be certain you are buying the one for your year and model, as there are several types. The attachment clips are plastic and can also be purchased new from Toyota or on eBay for a few bucks each. Any competent mechanic should be able to do this repair - dealer not required. The driver side door lock linkage is different from the right side but the clips are universal. The hardest part of the job is removing and replacing the door panel but YouTube videos are available on how-to. BTW, this is a very common problem with Toyotas and Lexus because of (guess what) that aging of that plastic clip which eventually becomes brittle and breaks. I cannot imagine why Toyota didn't use a metal clip as they did in the good old days. I suppose the answer to that is a guaranteed $500 repair somewhere down the line.
  27. 1 point
    I recently posted a question asking advice on replacing the rear hatch handle on my 2000 RX300. To those of you who responded or read the post, I thank you. I finished replacing the broken handle this morning. Here are the directions in case you have this problem. Since the rear hatch would not open, the repairs were initiated from inside the vehicle. Remove the privacy shield over the rear luggage area and fold down the seats. Pull the carpeted panel off the lower hatch (held in place by 5 nylon fasteners). Working from the lower corners of the carpeted panel worked well. Pull the top plastic panel off the hatch (held in place by 12 nylon fasteners). Again, working from the lower corners worked well. Put both panels out of the vehicle to give you more room to work I continued to work from inside the vehicle, but if you prefer, you could pull the hatch release mechanism at this point to open the hatch and work on the replacement while standing. Next, remove the two bolts (10 mm) holding the rear hatch key lock in place using care not to drop the bolts inside the hatch. No need to release any of the wiring for the lock. Dealerships refer to the painted panel above the license plate which the lock fits into on the outside of the hatch door as a garnish. I was told the garnish is frequently broken in the process of removing it and the part costs $218.00 to replace. In my experience, it is difficult to imagine this garnish would ever be broken unless the person doing the repair is extremely rough and impatient. Next, remove the three (10 mm) nuts holding the garnish in place. One of these nuts in partially hidden behind the rear wiper assembly, but can be removed using an open end wrench without removing the windshield wiper mechanism. You will notice two white nylon clips which also hold the garnish in place. By compressing the "wings" of these clips with a flat blade screwdriver and pushing the clops out, the garnish will come free. You might consider asking a person to hold the garnish from outside the vehicle as it falls free. There is a license plate lamp wire attached to the garnish, so it will not fall to the ground, but rather dangle by this wire. Now that the garnish is free, turn it over and remove the two rubber washers holding the door lock to the garnish. The replacement part is #69023-48010 and cost me $84.50 with tax. Check a couple dealerships ... another wanted $101.20 for the same part. Put the new door handle in place and begin to reverse your process to complete your job. Took me about an hour and a half to complete the repair, including running to pick up the new part. Hope this is helpful to some of you in the future. I am certain the repair is similar on all older model RX's and maybe even the newer ones. Didn't tear apart my 2005 RX to compare.
  28. 1 point
    Hi Craig Yes i saw your post sometime back, but do you think that if i reach out to Lexus at this point of time they will entertain? considering that the car was imported to UAE, i will try to reach them and will report back, From your post what i can understand you did managed to change it in the year 2014, so i am guessing i still have a chance Looking at the PDF of the SSC, my VIN number falls within that range which is specified as compared below campaign-ssc-wl2-1998-gs400-ls400-sc400-ecm-replacement.pdf
  29. 1 point
    Thanks for your response. After looking at the design I decided not to take the chance and just returned the CRC for a refund, pointing out the note on the can about Lexus,
  30. 1 point
    Ooo. Not fun, and yes, it sounds like there's air trapped there in the throttle body and upper hose connection. I'd start with a pair of locking pliers ("Vise-Grip") on the outside of the filler bolt head and see if you can get it off that way. Once there, fill the cooling system from that opening and that should take care of your air bubble/overheat issues. From what I could look up on Lexus parts sites (the diagrams aren't the easiest to read), so it looks like that filler bolt part number should be 90341-20012, and the washer/gasket below that should be 90430-20017. Hope this helps. Best, Paul
  31. 1 point
    Hello Everyone, I know IACV has been a huge topic on the forum and I have found various pictures in the RX forum and ES forum on the idle air control valve (IACV) or as others call it the idle speed control valve (ISC). However, I have not found a "step by step" posting to date which definitively shows how to clean this thing so that my car stops giving me idling problems. Symptoms I have had included: - low and rough idling that would cause the car engine to start shaking after starting the car - this eventually got worse to the point that when I start my car, it would not idle unless I gave it gas - idling problems for me tended to occur more often after my engine was warm or had been sitting in the sun I hope these series of postings help you fellow LOC members out there. You've certainly helped me in the past so here's my two cents at this common problem. Additionally, the instructions I give are the way in which I have cleaned it myself. As you go about and attempt this, you may find better ways to do so. Please add and refine my instructions/terminology as needed. I am not a professional. I've only changed my oil, air filters, and conducted minor maintenance previously. The bottom line is that if you have the right tools, you should be able to do this. This discovery/ cleaning took me about 2 hours to do cause I ran into problems and there were major steps left out in previous postings that I’ve encountered read. The next time I do this, I believe I can get this done in about an hour or less. Tools Needed: 1) Tightly fitting Philips Screw Driver 2) Carb cleaner that is O2 sensor safe (I've seen CRC. I used Valvoline Carb Cleaner) 3) Locking Grip Pliers (definitely helped me remove the factory tight screws) 4) Small brush for cleaning 5) Towels for cleaning 6) Pliers (help removed brackets holding the hoses) 7) Latex gloves helps with limit the messiness. * I used the same gasket and did not replace it. No problems found. 1) Remove the hose that comes from the engine/motor that connects to the air intake hoses.( Hose is below in red – we’ll refer to this as Hose A) When you pull back the rubber hose covering, you will see that a metal bracket is holding the hose pretty tightly in place. Use the pliers to clasps the two metal pieces together to loosen the bracket and pull the hose loose. You can also do this by hand if it’s easier for you. 2) Upon removing the hose, you will want to remove the two air intake hoses. Loosen the three screws above in green and remove the hose. Below is a picture of the intake hoses removed. 3)After removing the intake hoses, I opened the lid to the air filter and moved this to the side of the car to create more working room. I believe there are two clips on the right holding the lid in place. Just pop the two clips and move the cover to the side. I also took out the air filter and temporarily moved this to the side. 4)After removing the intake hose, the throttle body/IACV/black electric coil is revealed. At this point, I removed the black electric wire from the black coil. Once the electric wire is removed you can remove the black coil from the IACV by removing the two screws. Note, the screws are factory tight so use a tight fitting screw driver to remove the screws. One of my screws was partially stripped from the dealership’s work, so I had to resort to my locking grip pliers which helped out tremendously. After removing the two screws, the black electric piece pops right off. When the black electrical coil is removed from the IACV, it exposes a small pencil sized metal stud. You will also notice a washer that sits on this stud. Don’t lose this washer. Take it and put it aside so it doesn’t fall off when you continue on in the next steps. 5)Additionally, I removed the hose coming out of the IACV. We’ll call this Hose B. This hose can be removed in the same manner by clamping the bracket and pulling the hose out. You will see that the hose is removed below. Below are pictures of before and after. 6)Here is where the fun begins. I initially attempted to remove the four screws attached to the IACV at this point, but found that after an hour, this would be nearly impossible to remove considering the location of the screws were in an extremely tight spot. The only way I would be able to remove the IACV is to remove right throttle body. Not as tough as it sounds. Three screws need to be removed to accomplish this. Again, be careful when removing the screws. Also you will see I removed another electric plug and I also cut a tie wrap. Once you complete these steps, the throttle body/ IACV comes out pretty easily. Note when you remove the throttle body, there will be one LAST hose connected to the IACV. Be careful when you remove this hose as radiator fluid may spill. Some of my fluid spilled out so I just refilled my coolant after I was done. 7)Below is a picture of the bottom view of the IACV. You now can EASILY remove the four screws connecting the IACV to the throttle body . In the picture below, I have already removed one of the screws. Once the four screws are removed the IACV and throttle body separate. Now you can clean both of them with your carb cleaner, brush, towels, cotton swabs etc…. Picture here is before I the cleaning with all the muck inside Pictures after I cleaned the IACV and throttle body This last picture is the post throttle body cleaning 8) Once you are done cleaning, just put back the throttle body/iacv the same way you took it off, and put everything back in reverse order. Ensure the gasket is in place. Also, ensure you put the washer back on the electric coil. Make sure you place hose A & B back and ensure the electric plugs are back in their original position. Once these things are in place, then it's all about putting the air filter/hoses back and you are good to go. If you have lost any coolant, make sure you refill it to a safe level. After completing this cleaning, my car starts up without any problem and idles as if I just purchased the car brand new. Replacing this at a dealership would have costed me $300-400 easily. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers (Also, I tried to post these as separate replys, but the software combined all my replies into a single reply and did not keep them separated) *Edited the posting to have the pictures follow step by step in sequential order*
  32. 1 point
    I have a 2005 RX330, I got a recall on cracked dashboard and took the car to a local dealer to confirm. That was September 2015. I was told to wait 2-3 months to get the part in then they will call me. I called the dealer 3 month later, they told me to wait due to back order. I called them a few months later, a year later, and now about 17 months, they still tell me to wait. I wonder other Lexus owners have same experience and how long they wait to get the cracked dashboard replacement. There are more cracks and getting more ugly. I think waiting this long is not reasonable. What choice I have besides waiting indefinitely?
  33. 1 point
    Glad you liked it, Paul! For anyone who is also interested, I speculate that the car featured here is the same LS 400 currently being held at the Toyota USA Auto Museum in California: Even though this car has a plate on it, it has been in photos before with the plate removed, such as this one: The mounting holes are so small, that at the right angle with the right lighting, or with the use of photo editing, it could appear as if they aren't even there (like the photo in the C&D article). Notice how hard it is to see the holes on the ES 250 beside the LS (above). The museum car is also a non-Trac equipped model, just like the one in the article: Sources for photos: http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/05/the-toyota-usa-museumfrom-lexus-to-nascar-more/ http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/the-lexus-ls-400-is-officially-a-japanese-nostalgic-car/ http://www.toyotausamuseum.com/collection/1990_LS400.htm
  34. 1 point
    Possibly the receiver is damaged internally. Is there any drink spillage?
  35. 1 point
    Still here and added a Toyota Solara convertible to my collection. Love this SC look alike. Yup Still have RX400h with 209k miles...what a ride. Still a hot rod.
  36. 1 point
    Nathan, I knew the prognosis was not good but I was hoping your father would somehow make it through this. We PM'ed about it on the last day he was active on this forum. I would have liked to have met Randy in person but didn't know how to contact him after he dropped off the forum. Randy was incredibly helpful to others on this forum and it was always great fun to "talk" with him by PM. I assume you are talking about the red SC430: Perhaps a local Lexus dealer could provide suggestions on selling it or even sell it for you. Or maybe there is a business where you live that specializes in selling older pristine special interest cars on consignment. I'll bet this SC would sell in an instant if it was on a showroom floor.
  37. 1 point
    I was told ride would be stiffer...but I have not noticed that....actually seems better.
  38. 1 point
    My 2000 LX470 with about 160,000 miles lost it's suspension fluid, via leaks through the shocks, accumulator, and rusty lines. LEXUS wanted about $8700 to fully repair....and that did not include a new pump or other leveling switches which were working. I did some research and I just converted to a Toyota 100 land Cruiser type suspension system for about $1,700 installed. The ride is great, but I lost the rise and lower feature of course. There are a few kits on the market, but I choose Strut Master mainly because my mechanic had good luck with them in the past. My kit was $500, and labor to install was $1200, which included a new alignment. The top of the rear shocks are a !Removed! to get off, so my mechanic cut a small hole in the floor above, and patched it after the install, which is hidden under the mats anyway. The kit has 4 shocks and two stronger rear coil springs to simulate the Landcruiser. I highly recommend this conversion as once the hydraulic suspension begins to go, you could spend thousands to repair. The original system has so many parts that can fail so I highly recommend the conversion. My 17 year old LX470 is probally only worth $8,000 now, so I am not concerned about any loss in value from the conversion. And I never have to worry about expensive repairs on the suspension ever again.
  39. 1 point
    Congrats on the purchase! My sole project MBZ experience (W202, what did I expect?) was educational at best. By the time this is done, your temporary car may become one you want to keep around for a long time. Dig around the archives here for answers to many of your car's issues, as well as some of the other Lexus forums. There's close to a couple decades' worth of wisdom and knowledge here. Thankfully used parts in junkyards are still pretty inexpensive, and depending on where you live, still fairly plentiful. Many of the other answers will be found in the repair manuals (that's a massive score, by the way!). 1) Radio: If you have the standard radio (Pioneer, not Nakamichi), wiring harness adapters for aftermarket radios are cheap and install's pretty straightforward. Pioneer speakers are pretty indestructo, but the Nakamichi speakers sound great, even now. If the speaker foam has disintegrated on the Nak speakers, consider re-foaming--they're worth saving. Naks have the amp separate from the radio head, so basically are a line-out set. I'm not aware of a wiring adapter for that. 2) Washer pump might be the pump, itself. 2A) Start with the switch when it comes to the mirrors. 3) Brakes sound like they need re-bleeding. Follow the procedure in the shop manual to the letter (an assistant is helpful, but otherwise use a stick or long piece of wood to hold the brake pedal all the way down when closing the bleeder screws on the calipers). 3a) '93 and '94 cars have bigger brakes and different calipers, and should be a straightforward swap. 4) 16" wheels are plug and play. If you DO go with later brakes, the stock 15" wheels won't fit, so you'll need those 16" rims. 5) Driver's seat sounds more like an adjustment issue, as they generally don't wear out. 5A) If you do go junkyard shopping for seats, you are limited to '90-92 seats; '93 and '94 seat wiring is completely different and won't work, even if the seats bolt right in. 6) The timing belt/water pump job is a big project, although if the belt that's in there has less than 100k miles on it (and OE belts will go *much* longer than 100k), it'll be fine for now. It's a non-interference engine, anyway... 6A) A coolant change would be a good idea, though. 6B) As for timing belt vendors, Aisin's good, Continental (nee Goodyear) timing belts or Gates belts are just fine, too. 6C) There are also coolant drain petcocks on both sides of the engine block, if doing that change. I'd go with the proper pink coolant here, not green or other colors. 7) The steering column may be a matter of the gears needing attention (adding a shim, re-greasing). 8) Parts-wise, shop around. Many Lexus dealers also sell OEM bits on that auction site. 9) While a stock LS is a bit wallowy around curves, it will stick longer and better than you'd expect, as the suspension design is actually quite good. If you're going *there*, stiffer shocks, poly bushings on the sway bars and a larger rear sway bar (Addco makes a solid 7/8-1" rear sway bar for the LS) will tighten things up and flatten things out. After all that, you'll still slide around in the driver's seat! ;-) I'll repeat the mantra: Search the forums. ;-) Have fun! Paul
  40. 1 point
    Speed sensor is located on the passenger side hub.
  41. 1 point
    I did the math over the course of two months. Using 93 octane from Shell or BP in the GX improves overall mileage enough to actually save 1.3 cents per mile in fuel cost. But even if it cost a little more per mile, my butt dyno says the engine runs noticeably better with hi-test.
  42. 1 point
    shame that nobody answers a lot of these questions on here. From what I have researched and talking to Lexus certified mechanics, it appears that the eco mode has the best effect when used during stop and go traffic. The primary changes made by the system is to change the throttle profile by essentially slowing down acceleration, shifting sooner (lower rpms), and scaling back devices that cause high energy drain from the motor (IE: air conditioner compressor and internal fan speed for climate control). Because of these functions, the effect of "eco mode" would be minimal when at highway speeds or maintaining a fairly constant speed. Normal mode is quite efficient and the unique ability of this motor to switch between the traditional Atkinson cycle and the Otto cycle will yield fairly good gas mileage even with the turbo. From my experience and what I have read online most owners that track their mpg manually notice less than a 1-2 mpg gain on long trips when this mode is enabled while highway driving.
  43. 1 point
    Exactly and I've gone through all of the appropriate steps to get assistance from Lexus and they will not help. This is my last Lexus for this reason. I'm going to drive it until there's no paint. It's not very good advertising for them. It's pitiful when I see so many with the same problem. One paint place told me it was bad primer. Good Luck to you.
  44. 1 point
    Hopefully you can get some benefit from the attached files. Good luck. RX300_1998-2003_Workshop_Repair_Manual__WhereEverybodyKnowsY.pdf RX300 - Body Electrical Diagrams .pdf RX300_-_Repair_Manual_.pdf
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    no rubbing issues ? I want to do a 245/45/18 on a 18x8 35offset rim cant seem to find any info as to fitment most tire websites suggest 235/45/18 any input from any would be appreciated.Thanks
  47. 1 point
    I think it is pretty cheap when a corporation such as Toyota stops furnishing repair manuals. Once again big corporations don't care about us little people
  48. 1 point
    Just replaced a cracked EGR tube on my son's 96 LS400. I've read all that I can find on the web and found a few tips that may make it easier for any DIYer attempting this himself. First off, for those of you who were able to replace an EGR tube without removing the right side cat I bow at your feet saying "I'm not worthy" repeatedly. I have idea how you pull this off because I couldn't even see the top 2 bolts without taking off the cat. And yes, the bolts on the cat were completely frozen. I stripped 2 of the three upper nuts attempting to get it off. After soaking in PB Blaster for 48hours and then hitting it with a propane torch with no luck, I pulled out the big gun: "CRC Freeze Off!." If you haven't ever uesd this stuff, it's simply amazing. After shooting the nuts/bolts with Freeze Off, 90 seconds later, "BAM!" they're off. So if you're afraid to remove the right side cat because the bolts are frozen, now you know. However, a caution: Freeze off has a flash point of 104 degrees. So be careful. And the way to get the stripped bolts/nuts off is with your Craftsman stripped bolt/screw remover set. Works like a dream even when the nut is stripped round. After getting off the cat, the two lower nuts are cake to get off; top two bolts, not so easy. To get them off, working from the bottom, I used a long extension and swivel socket with painters tape wrapped around the swivel joint. Painter's tape allows you to position the angle of the socket so it doesn't flop around while you're trying to get it on the head of the bolts. When I got the bottom two nuts off the bottom half of the EGR tube fell off and hit me in the face. No wonder it sounded so crappy! Once it was off putting it back on was another challenge. Feeding the tube up from the bottom it's pretty easy to get the flange over the bolts and then just screw the nuts on. No big deal. But getting the proper orientation for the upper two bolts which are inserted into threaded holes is another story because you can't really see much of the treads looking up from the bottom. Note: I've read that a lot of guys work from the top. I couldn't get my hand between the firewall and all the tubes running around the back of the engine to thread the first bolt, the top one, to get the orientation right. Obviously, if you get these bolts cross threaded, or muck up the threaded holes, you're SOL. So I got a little creative. After unbolting the brace that runs along the bottom attached to the exhaust, I jacked the transmission up about 2 inches. I know, living dangerously. But I thought there'd be enough "slack" in the motor and tranny mounts to allow for this after I made sure I wasn't going to pinch any fuel, cooler, or AC lines in the process. Once I felt resistance, I stopped. And I used a big wood block under the tranny pan to prevent damage. Once jacked up the engine had moved far enough away from the firewall that I had enough room to squeeze my hand down the back side of the fire wall to get my hand in position to work. I couldn't hold the bolt in my hand as I worked it down the back of the firewall so I attached a piece of thread to the bolt and lowerd it down into place and then slid my hand down afterwards. Still tight, but doable. Once I could insert the bolt into the flange of the EGR tube I could safely begin to feel the proper orientation to thread the bolt into the threaded hole and position the tube at the same time as well. Once the top bolt was in I had the proper orientation/alingment to insert the bottom bolt in from the underside of the vehicle. I used the same painter tape trick on the swivel but also wrapped painter's tape around the socket leaving about 1/16" protruding about the edge of the socket. I used this to press down on the underside of the bolt once inserted in the socket so that I wouldn't keep losing it when it boinked on something and fell out for the umpteenth time. I Don't honestly know if any of these ramblings will actually help anyone or not. But it sure helped me get this job done myself without having to take it to the dealer ($1100 quote) or drop the tranny. I've already R&R 2 trannies this year so I've met my quota. But WOW does this car run smoother and quieter now....and doesn't sound like a '73 LTD like someone mentioned.
  49. 1 point
    No problem, That's one of the reasons were here, Happy to hear that all is well in your garage
  50. 1 point
    Grandpa is correct. i have a 94 just like Wucantstop and the button does not click or stay in and is not supposed to. the "trac off" button works list like the stereo system: push the volume knob in and it will come out back to where it was originally and the stereo will turn on. to add to what grandpa also said, when you first turn the key to "on", the "trac" light should come on in the middle of the speedometer and turn off after a few seconds. this is the system doing a self check. the "trac off" light should also turn on and off at the bottom of the dash when the key is turned to on. if neither of these lights illuminate, you have internal traction control problems just like jakeroux.



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