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I did scrape the carbon build-up from the TB gently with a screwdriver and with a blade I also used paper towels soaked with TB cleaner spray. I was careful not to damage the TPS by exposure to the cleaner... After I reinstalled TB I checked with multimeter if readings are within spec and they all were, including filler gauges of proper thickness (see one of the previous post). I probably created some scratches with those tools but the alternative was to leave it dirty as the carbon buildup was so bad that cleaning just with towels soaked with TB cleaner did not remove the dirt but solidify it more... I may consider TPS adjustment... I haven't done it yet as everything was within the spec. For IACV I didn't have to use the screw driver or a blade. Just rubbing with tissue soaked with TB cleaner was enough. It was a lot of work and it took a long time as I took my time to do a good job... Insides of the IACV were not really dirty, thus I did not clean it. But disassembling allowed me to inspect the valve for functioning and moving valve in and out allowed for better cleanup.

detaildoc - I have read many of JudyB’s posts on various forums but I don’t understand her marketing strategy. She is the MD for a leather product company in the UK but never names a suitable product to go along with the knowledgeable advice she offers on leather care. She post’s on a UK based detailing forum but for her own reasons chooses not to become a sponsor that would allow her to advertise her companies products, but will advise you on what is wrong with competitors products. I have always preferred un-biased advice from someone who offers an honest opinion as opposed to merely advertising. Commercialism brings with it concerns of honesty and true representation. In other words, it’s difficult to know what is true when someone is motivated by income, i.e. directly targeted at product sales, more so than an unbiased opinion I try to recommend products that I have used and do, or exceed what the mfg says they will

Leather Protection is far more viable and will provide better long-term benefits than a conditioner as so many so called leather conditioners utilize chemical solvents in order to facilitate penetration of there oils; this has a detrimental effect of the polyethylene covering causing fissures (cracking). If your leather upholstery is becoming inflexible use Leather Master’s Vital, as leather requires re-hydration (moisture replacement) not a leather conditioner. Water-based leather products - Cleaners; Leather Master US - http://www.topoftheline.com / Sonus - http://www.autopia.net Protection;http://www.topoftheline.com Basic Leather care - http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ther-care.html

Leather Care 101 1. Cleaning 2. Conditioning 3. Ultra Violet Radiation protection 1. Cleaning- use a soft horse hair brush (Groit's Leather & Interior Brush) and/or a vacuum to remove any dust, apply a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 6:1 ratio or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). To remove stubborn dirt or grime gently agitate the surface with a boar's hair cleaning brush (this will not harm the leather) then use a clean, damp Microfiber towel to rinse. Maintenance cleaning- use a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 10:1 ratio) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time Stubborn stains- dependent upon the leathers condition or how dirty it is consider using a leather-cleaning product. (Leatherique's Prestine Clean, Zaino Leather in a bottle, Groit's Leather Cleaner or Autoglym Leather Cleaner) 2. Initial conditioning - for the initial conditioning of uncoated leather, and/or if you are cleaning it for the first time use a Leather Rejuvenator. (http://www.Leatherique.com) [use Zaino Z-10 Leather in a bottle on coated leather] paying particular attention to area that are exposed to the most UV radiation, i.e. backs of headrests, seat shoulders, and then apply to the rest of the seating surfaces starting at he top and working your way down. Allow the product to be absorbed into the hides for several hours on a sunny day, or overnight. Warmth makes the leather fibres pores open allowing the proteins and collagens to be absorbed readily. Park the car in direct sunlight, cover seats with black plastic trash bags, and roll up the windows to create a steam room to allow the Rejuvenator to fully penetrate into the hides. 2a. Conditioning- recommend a preventative maintenance routine three to four times a year, once prior to the winter season to prevent cold temperatures cracking the leather, and once before the heat of the summer to prevent deterioration and shrinkage by heat, which result in continued cracking of leather. In addition to regular cleaning, leather requires replacement of natural oils; Collagen-based products like Leatherique restore the lost moisture and maintain its natural flexibility. The smell of leather comes from oils evaporating out of the hide. Conditioners are for leather which is porous, vinyl is not, do not use a vinyl product as a conditioner on leather as vinyl requires much stronger cleaning agents than leather and above all try to avoid raw silicone oil based products, as the silicone oil will dissolve the leather's natural oils and tend to make the leather sticky, silicone oils also have a very high electrostatic (static) attraction to dust and dirt particle. 1.Conditioning products should be applied to a warm surface to help the oils penetrate the coating (warm with the suns heat or a hairdryer) allow sufficient time (preferably overnight) for the oils to permeate the coating and reach the leather underneath. 2.It is possible to over-condition leather once the hide has absorbed the product it will saturate the foam and the hides stitching and may cause it to fray /disintegrate or over-clean your leather as this may lead to premature cracking and discoloration. Most leathers are treated at the tannery with a protective coating to help protect against staining. Excessive cleaning and conditioning can remove some of the protective properties. Carry a small spray bottle of water and a clean micro fibre cloth so if you ever spill something onto your leather, spray the affected area and wipe it as soon as possible, you should then treat the affected area with leather conditioner. 3.Conditioning oils will penetrate the fibres more efficiently if they are warmed first; place the plastic container in a microwave before using. For best results warm the leather also before application (vehicle heating system, hairdryer, or the suns heat Allow sufficient permeation time (4-6 hours) or overnight if possible, especially with coated or spray-on dye leathers.) Schedule: Once every 30-60 days, Arizona, Florida and Texas, especially in summer, for northern climates between 90-120 days, use a leather conditioner to restore these natural oils and keep the leather soft and supple. (Criot's Leather Care, Autoglym Leather Care Cream, Zanio Z10 Leather in a Bottle or Zymol Treat leather cleaners are all good maintenance products) 3. Ultraviolet Radiation (UVR) Protection - you should consider additional sunscreen protection (especially if you own a convertible) leather conditioners typically do not offer any UV screening. The best solution is to alternate between a leather conditioner and a, ultra violet radiation (UVR) protection (303™ Aerospace Protectant). One month use a conditioner to keep the leather healthy and supple. On alternate months mist and wipe the leather with a UVR protection. After application allow 60 minutes for product to cure, then using a 100% cotton cloth to lightly buff surface