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Posted

It basically is 4-5 inches long

about 3 inches in diameter

looks kind of like an accoridan

It is a fluid filter for trannies and has an internal magnet to catch any extra metal debris as well. The magnet is just a bonus as the 3 in the pan are pretty good already.

It takes about 20 minutes to install on the tranny cooler return line attached to the rad. This line is needed as the tranny fluid needs to be heated to operate properly not jsut being cooled so it is dual purposed.This is why i did not add an external cooler also as the stock one is fine and i have a tranny temp gauge to monitor it anyway for problems.

To install it you need to disconnect one of the 2 lines from the cooler.

Basically the filter is directional so it has to be hooked up with the flow of fluid not backwards. Warm fluid is less viscous so i placed mine on the return line from the cooler as i mentioned it also heats to operating temp. This way i don;t have cloggin issues from cold fluid. Mine came with an extra hose so i did not have to cut any hoses. Basically i attached on one end to the old hose and connected it to the supplied hose and the cooler. Then tightend the 3 worm clamps and i was dones.

3 weeks later the improvment was drastically better.

I would no longer have my cold shift points of 1-2 at 5000rpms but back to where it shoudl be at 2000-3000 when cold.

It has progressivle gotten better since then as well.

For $50 i saved my tranny and plan on changing the filter shortly and cutting the old one open because i liek to do that sort of thing.

So all in all 20 minutes of time and $50 is a great investment.

I explained this to a few people but will mention it again.

The reason why so many of us have tranny problems is not the actually bad tranny but an infeior filter. The metal mesh sceen used on the a541e tranny is crap. It cannot catch the small particles which then clog the valve body. This becomes compounded by drivers who do not warm up the cars properly as it makes the cold fluid even harder to get by the vavles and check balls in the valve body. Thus creating less force on the clutch plates making them slip and creating mroe debris the mesh can't stop . So you end up with a dead tranny or at the very least a bad slipping between 1-2 and kickdown.

hope this makes sense

the first pic atached is of the filter mounted to the frame under the battery

the second is a further back picture so you can see the location more in relation to the engine

the third is one looking down from the front of the battery.

Posted

I haven't added them yet

Your too fast for me Steve.

Can't you see i am concentrating trying to spell tonight.

lmao.

Posted
It basically is 4-5 inches long

about 3 inches in diameter

looks kind of like an accoridan

It is a fluid filter for trannies and has an internal magnet to catch any extra metal debris as well. The magnet is just a bonus as the 3 in the pan are pretty good already.

It takes about 20 minutes to install on the tranny cooler return line attached to the rad. This line is needed as the tranny fluid needs to be heated to operate properly not jsut being cooled so it is dual purposed.This is why i did not add an external cooler also as the stock one is fine and i have a tranny temp gauge to monitor it anyway for problems.

To install it you need to disconnect one of the 2 lines from the cooler.

Basically the filter is directional so it has to be hooked up with the flow of fluid not backwards. Warm fluid is less viscous so i placed mine on the return line from the cooler as i mentioned it also heats to operating temp. This way i don;t have cloggin issues from cold fluid. Mine came with an extra hose so i did not have to cut any hoses. Basically i attached on one end to the old hose and connected it to the supplied hose and the cooler. Then tightend the 3 worm clamps and i was dones.

3 weeks later  the improvment was drastically better.

I would no longer have my cold shift points of 1-2 at 5000rpms but back to where it shoudl be at 2000-3000 when cold.

It has progressivle gotten better since then as well.

For $50 i saved my tranny and plan on changing the filter shortly and cutting the old one open because i liek to do that sort of thing.

So all in all 20 minutes of time and $50 is a great investment.

I explained this to a few people but will mention it again.

The reason why so many of us have tranny problems is not the actually bad tranny but an infeior filter. The metal mesh sceen used on the a541e tranny is crap. It cannot catch the small particles which then clog the valve body. This becomes compounded by drivers who do not warm up the cars properly as it makes the cold fluid even harder to get by the vavles and check balls in the valve body. Thus creating less force on the clutch plates making them slip and creating mroe debris the mesh can't stop . So you end up with a dead tranny or at the very least a bad slipping between 1-2 and kickdown.

hope this makes sense

the first pic atached is of the filter mounted to the frame under the battery

the second is a further back picture so you can see the location more in relation to the engine

the third is one looking down from the front of the battery.

Where did you say you obtain the tranny filter?

Posted

I didn't say.

I got mine localy from a transmission shop.

Not sure where else you might be able to get one, it shoudl be available from other places . I was sent a link form another memebr asking about it but the one showed to me was huge and for RV's trucks and other large hydralic machines.

Posted
Your too fast for me Steve.

Biy if I had a dollar for every time I've heard that :cries: B)

Posted

Good morning,

First, like to say thank you for helping us.

Three questions

1. After flush, how soon transmission go fail?

2. if person maintain transmission well, how many miles can go?

3. where you can buy this filter?

Posted

Sk,

This is cool, but you have to replace the filter quite often. How about an external cooler? You can get one for $50.

JPI

Posted

do post pics of the old filter after you cut it open.. will be very interesting to see. my questions also when was the last time you changed its filter and how often?

Posted

CAMLEX

First , my tranny never failed after a flush it just failed.After a flush i was able to get it back to new again.

Until i took it for an emission test at ERIN PARK LEXUS in mississauga and the jackasss tech thought it was a fun and fast car. So he went to warm it it which i never thought of anything since i know all the other guys but him.

Next morning i could not get it out of my garage. The filter was slushed with fibers from high rpm shifting.

But how do you prove something that isn;t supposed to happen overnight but immediatly. Now i know how i would prove it but it is besides the point.

Unknown how long a normally well taken care of tranny will last.

I am not sure where to get it besides in Toronto but i am sure Toronto does not have a monopoly on them.

I was a very slow process starting with higher and higher rpms for 1-2 gear changes.

It failed all of a sudden one night when it was real cold.

JPI

I am still on my first filter i never changed it but keep planning on getting a new one shortly . Funny thing is it will take less than 3 minutes to chaneg i just have much more to do besides drive that car.

The cooler is not nessacary for my needs.

Which i s why i added the temp gauge to my tranny fluid to monitor it.

I do mainly highway and the thing never even gets past the lowest temp unless i am idle or stop and go traffic.

Like i mentioned it takes about 3 weeks of normal driving to finally clear the valvebody up.

I will take pics when i do open it up sooner or later.

Posted

Thanks,

One more question,

if you open the hood and standing in front of car you see two line going to radiator from transmission.

left has insulation and right without insulation. With insulation line taking hot fluid to radiator to cool and after cools (~160-180 F) in radiator take back to transmission in without insulation. am i thinking right?

Since i am in texas i wants to add cooler, I wants to add after radiator cool funtion.

simple way, which line is in (TO radiator) and which line out (from radiator)?

Hope you don't get lost the way i am describing and asking question.

Thanks,

Posted

I have a mcv10 chasis

so i cannot say for sure as i dont; have insulation on my hoses.

I would assume the insulation is for the one returning to the transmission not leaving.

The best thing it to disconnect one form the rad get a small cup as it is very low pressure when cold.

Get someone to start the car for 2 seconds and see the direction of flow ,I checked my manual but it proved to be no help so that is the way i found mine for sure.

Posted

Thank you.

I think you are right. Left line (when you standing infront of engine) going to radiator and right is returning from radiator.

But i will check as you show me the trick.

Thanks,


Posted

4787_1.gif

this is the wix one you said you got.

I thought i would post a pic so it does look similar, i think mine is a little longer and with larger openings. But it is an internet pic.

Not a bad price all considered after a currency conversion.

I was glad someone foudn one as i was going to see if i could get a deal on a case so all interested could get them for about $30 shipped.

Posted
WE LOOKING FOR MAGNETIC TYPE. WHERE DELTA P IS VERY LITTLE.

YOU DON'T WANT TOO MUCH PRESSURE DROP.

That is magnetic type with full flow and complete bypass. Read the specs at the link.

Posted

Is this not one of those BS or unnecessary things that we are sold ?

Are improvement that great ? Can the really be scientifically shown ? Not trying to put anything/anyone down but you would think the car manufacturers would already have these things in their cars. JMHO, Geo

Posted

wishful thinking geo

unfortunatly thnigs brake and every conceivable evolution of a product revelas flaws in the last.

Which is the reason the newer filters are not jsut a metal mesh anymore

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