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Single Turbo Or 2jzgte Engine Conversion...


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Hey everyone,

I'm new here. I'm switching from my Chevy S10 to a SC300 soon. I am saving up for Powerhouse Racing to put 2JZGTE engine in it also, and their homepage says it costs about $10,500. I know its hard work and all, but is that a decent price? Would anyone on the forum do it for a little less? Any info would be appreciated :)

Thanks :)

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I would find a SC300 in good shape and put a turbo on the existing motor. But that's just me. If you put 10K on top of the initial cost of the car - you'll be at 500+ horsepower on a NA-T. I found one already turboed. They are out there.

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So instead of wasting 10 grand for a twin turbo, I could just get a turbo (which one?) and get the intercooler, etc.... and it would be just as good as the twins? I've heard that a good turbo is better then stock twins.... also, I"ve heard from Powerhouse that the Lexus can only produce 525rwhp (about) with 93 octane gas.... but if I got a T78 turbo or something, will 93 octane gas be bad for it and do I always have to run racing fuel? Just a little confused on that. Up here in Minnesota, there are VERY few Lexus that are turbo'ed... I saw a few on Ebay, but they are half way across the country (but hey, if its worth it, I guess I'd fly there)....So 10K in parts could put the Lexus SC300 over 400 RWHP without NOS?

Thanks again for the help :D

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)....So 10K in parts could put the Lexus SC300 over 400 RWHP without NOS?

YES

Definitely. T04E series have approached 500 ponies, a T60-1 has shown to be a little more flow. Flow is key. The more flow the more power if the fuel is there. A big turbo like a t78 is gonna flow high with big numbers but you will wait longer. It's all based on what you want.

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Yeah... I don't like the "spooling" etc... since I won't go to the track.... maybe once to get a timeslip, but not hardcore racing, except from street light to street light. I was thinking about the T-60 or is there a T-50 something? Also, the question about getting a bigger turbo. I've heard you can only go so fast with pump gas (like 525 rwhp) and more on race fuel. So could I get a T78 (just an example) and still use pump gas, or do I have to use race fuel or else it will damage it??

Thanks again for the info :)

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The way I see it, It all depends on how you manage the system. There are alot of things that you have to take into careful consideration before you by a turbo. Not every one will work for your car. Your always going to be trading off something every time you decide to get bigger and better. As for the "turbo vs tt" It all depends on the size of the turbo. Garrett just came out with and awesome turbo that retails for $1800. It's full ball-bearing and to die for. One more thing, you really don't want to run laughing gas with a turbo motor. The only reason why you would is to get it to spool faster. Otherwise your going to do major damage and burn all that money you just spent.

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If you need to do research or learn about turbos there is an excellent book by Corky Bell by the title of Maximum Boost. It has the information and calculations necessary for turbo sizing. Research is key. I've got the smallest turbo I've yet heard of with a T3/T04B but it is running specs of a large T04E or B as the case may be (still need to tear into it and work it over a little). I've heard of SP57's, SP63 - (those are Sound Performance brand turbo's popular with supra motors and thus work with ours) all the way up to SP88 and 1,000hp with spool up kits and expensive engine management systems with 10,000 rpm limits on worked over motors. It is all in the set up. The more power, flow, boost - the more money. Almost any turbo can be trimmed, sized and tweaked to do the same as any other similar turbo within reason.

It is my honest opinion that a nice single turbo is better than any twin set-up. It just has to be sized correctly for the application or goal. There are all kinds of turbos. The key is compressor maps and efficiency. The book will help anyone understand these items. I'll post some maps I have come across in the gallery. If you are serious about forced induction via turbo you should have a real good understanding of them before going to any tuner or installer. I learn more every day and have been reading up for a few years.

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Hey everyone,

I'm new here. I'm switching from my Chevy S10 to a SC300 soon. I am saving up for Powerhouse Racing to put 2JZGTE engine in it also, and their homepage says it costs about $10,500. I know its hard work and all, but is that a decent price? Would anyone on the forum do it for a little less? Any info would be appreciated :)

Thanks :)

If ya got the money go for the engine swap. Way more motor to play with.

http://www.sp-power.com/main.htm

The above is for a shop called SP here in Cali. Tow words for these guys "Crazy Power"

Check-em out. :cheers:

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AJ:

How much did you pay for your turbo on the GE Engine? I think I'm convinced that just turboing the Stock Engine would be efficient enough, than going with the Engine Swap I was thinking of going with.

THe GTE engine will give you higher horsepower opportunities, but there is a point before the car becomes to hard to handle on normal roads. 525RWHP is sufficient for street use. beyond that, you are likely to loose control over your car, and it will start to drive you; speaking from experience, I've crashed one F5k car. The excess torque got to me when i came upon my first hairpin. :chairshot:

I would definitely recommend lowering the car once you've modified the engine. It will help.

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If ya got the money go for the engine swap. Way more motor to play with.

I hihgly disagree. The 2JZ-GTE is not way more motor than the 2JZ-GE. In fact, they are basically the same motor.

Heads are different porting, valves are different pistons different, intake manifold different, crank different, rods different, cooloing jackets different, head porting different...oh what else???

Just a little jab AWJ don't take it personly. :cheers::cheers:

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You can never have too much head. :huh:

No problem gslx4s: but we should go into how these items are different.

The head ports are different - designed for a sized factory turbo application. Likewise the valves are going to be different. In a turbo motor, overlap is to be avoided because reversion will kill power. With a turbo bolted up there is a high amount of pressure before the turbo at speed and this forces exhaust gas back into the chamber approaching tdc or just after. On an NA motor some overlap can actually help in the removal of burned gasses with a scavenging effect. Some ways to control overlap - cam timing and profile changes or modification. The stock cams on the ge actually perform very well in the turbo application at the stock power band. Should the rev limit be raised, then an alternate cam profile is advised. Also the head is set up for a 8.5:1 ratio on the GTE while the GE is 10:1. It is obvious why the exhaust manifolds are different I think. Likewise the intake manifolds are different because a denser, higher pressure air charge is going to cram equally into the sidemount intake plenum of the GTE and with pressure equal at all points in a pressurized system, delivery can be near equal to each cylinder even though the charge entrance is through a relatively small throttle body at the frontward most end of the plenum. While the over top design of the GE is ideal for NA application with variable runner lengths for good low end torque and good high range power featuring a large twin chamber mass air entrance across the entire length of the plenum, at moderate boost levels, this manifold performs extremely well. There is no major drawback to using the GE head as opposed to the GTE head on moderate turbo applications - read 500+ hp. Ask me how I know. ;) The guys making over 600 hp tend to begin to consider side mount intakes and aggressive cam profiles suited to high 25+ pounds of boost and drag race only applications. If the rpm band is extended, then cam profiles are considered. Lets not forget that the GTE head can be bolted to the GE block and vice versa. I'm not sure of cooling and oil channel differences but I know it has been done with success by others. Same the 1jz head and 2jz blocks. Of course it is pointless to put a 2jz head on a 1jz block. It is also sensless to do the 1.5 jz set up when a full 2jz is available.

The pistons - both the GE and GTE are resin coated forged pistons - very strong for a factory motor. The difference in the pistons for the GTE is that they are dished to help create a 8.5:1 compression ration while the GE pistons are flat top for a 10:1 compression ratio. I feel absolutely confident that at 10:1 as much as 19 pounds can be run without detrimental failure on a well tuned system. I've done it. Of course there are several factors here and above 15 psi at 10:1 is risky - but I maintain that with a correctly dialed in set-up, stock compression can be retained with success at high boost. Turbo size/flow rates need to be accounted for as well as fuel delivery.

The crank is the same. I don't know why you say it is different. The same bullet proof forged unit with 7 bolt mains.

The rods are also forged pieces in both motors. The only difference is some incorporated oil squirters on the big end bearing side.

What cooling jackets are different? There are oil squirters for the rods and pistons that are not in the GE. I may be mistaken but I do beleive the water flow is the same in both motors - if not sue me.

The GTE is a minimally stronger base unit than the GE. It is not more motor. They are both 3.0 liter motors with different applications. In fact, I might argue that the GE motor is more to play with because of the higher compression. You get more output for pound of boost. 12 psi at 10:1 will run away from 12 psi at 8.5:1 especially with the 5 speed shorter gears.

If you ask me, I think GReddy should produce a na-t kit for the GE motor to run a moderate 10psi with possibly upgrades just like they do for the GTE. Featuring the stainless manifold, T series turbos, 6 larger injectors, fuel pump, rail and intercooler. I think this could be a lucrative endeavor. I could design and market it. B)

UCF3: My forced induction experience is a long and twisted story. The current vehicle was purchased already turbocharged. The previous vehicle is the one I was piceing a kit together for to install on my own. I never made it. The car was lost. I sold the parts. But I had bought a Performance Factory turbo header, dp with closed loop deltagate, drilled an tapped oil pan, I was looking at a new turbo from sp - the 57 to 63 size, I had a custom ported stock fuel rail that I sold to www.turboforums.net (a good example of success on a GE by the way), - basically on go fast parts I had spent a total of 2g's and I was not far from having a complete set-up aside from injectors, intercooler, and management wich could have easily been purchased for a grand total of 3 g's with a little bit of hard looking at used or new reduced price components. I had been quoted $7,500 for a drive in drive out NA-T conversion from Sound Performance in Chicago which I feel would be a fair price. They do very good work there and are well respected. They gave me tour and were very helpful. When I do more work, It will be with their shop.

My plans for the future include a TRD limited slip differential, revised fuel system and sp60 or similar turbo with .7 ish a/r hot side ratio and an extended rpm range up to 10 k and - the list doesn't end folks....

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another question for you AJ. On the stock Limited Slip, have you experienced any lag time? For some odd reason, I can't even make my tires spin. I'm guessing I need another limited Slip or it could be a factory Lexus thing. If it's a stock issue, I might consider getting a TRD version Limited SLip.

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Both the first sc and current one in my history had/have an open differential. A limited slip is always a good upgrade if you feel the cost is worth it. I've been looking for a supra TT auto LSD to swap in. What do you mean by lag time? With 350+ hp on tap at the wheels on the 5 speed I have no lag or problem spinning tires. As far as wich one, I don't know - I haven't checked or had a chance. I've heard that the SC's will spin both tires on occasion. There is some debate about wether or not a LSD was available in the SC. I don't think there was. But I've been wrong before. The first sc would spin the passenger side sometimes and driver side other times when I dropped the clutch. I don't know if it ever spun both - never checked. UCF3, if you have an auto, you'll need more power or freed up power to get a real spin going. I'd recommend a torque converter and a turbo. If you're trying to get a burnout going there are ways. But it is not good for the car. Your differential is not to blame though.

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Hi, I'm in the same boat...I'm looking forward to buy a used SC300 just to do the 2JZ-GTE conversion. I'm trying to find one that cost around $3-5K(used-raped) I don't really care about the engine or mileage, but does it need to be a 5 spd for the swap? Also how much hp can a 2JZ-GE engine hold on stock bottom end? I was thinking that it wouldn't hold half as much as the 2JZ-GTE(correct me on this)? BTW I've a '94 Supra with T-66 turbo the car was done at Sound Performance in 2001, the car put down 600+ rwhp and has 130K hard miles on the original 2JZ-GTE engine, I did a leakdown and compression test not too long ago and the results were unbelieveable. I'm trying to achieve this same HP on the 2JZ-GTE swap SC300 could this be done cheaper on 2JZ-GE engine? How many PSI do you considered a safe level on 2JZ-GE engine say with a fuel system upgraded and all the goodies? Jarrette at Powerhouseracing charges $10,500 for the swap do you think this is a reasonable price? Also how strong is the 5 spd tranny on SC300? Sorry if I'm asking too many questions, because I really don't know anything about this conversion, but I need to get start on this project asap.

P.S. AWJ, Do you know of any shops you would recommend to get this conversion done for a reasonable price?

Appreciated any helps.

Bordin T.

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Hi, I'm in the same boat...I'm looking forward to buy a used SC300 just to do the 2JZ-GTE conversion. I'm trying to find one that cost around $3-5K(used-raped) I don't really care about the engine or mileage, but does it need to be a 5 spd for the swap? Also how much hp can a 2JZ-GE engine hold on stock bottom end? I was thinking that it wouldn't hold half as much as the 2JZ-GTE(correct me on this)? BTW I've a '94 Supra with T-66 turbo the car was done at Sound Performance in 2001, the car put down 600+ rwhp and has 130K hard miles on the original 2JZ-GTE engine, I did a leakdown and compression test not too long ago and the results were unbelieveable. I'm trying to achieve this same HP on the 2JZ-GTE swap SC300 could this be done cheaper on 2JZ-GE engine? How many PSI do you considered a safe level on 2JZ-GE engine say with a fuel system upgraded and all the goodies? Jarrette at Powerhouseracing charges $10,500 for the swap do you think this is a reasonable price? Also how strong is the 5 spd tranny on SC300? Sorry if I'm asking too many questions, because I really don't know anything about this conversion, but I need to get start on this project asap.

P.S. AWJ, Do you know of any shops you would recommend to get this conversion done for a reasonable price?

Appreciated any helps.

Bordin T.

I know of a great shop that could do your swap. What is your location?

Shop SP Engineering: They have done 8 conversations to date.

http://www.sp-power.com/main.htm

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The ge has not truly been pushed on the stock bottom end. In fact - there are only a couple of major players on the GE - a guy in the New York area by the handle osofast240 running a GE in a nissan and another in the missouri area that I know of. I have not seen documented failures of the stock bottom end although I know someone has done it. I could venture to guess 500 ponies reliably. Over that the guys start going to aftermarket rods, pistons, and lowering compression. But who knows for sure. If someone here does, please contribute with some type of documentation. Oh wait, Ethan spun a main bearing at 940+ rwhp.

The GE and GTE are nearly identical downstairs aside from a couple squirters. Similar horsepower can definitely be acheived on the GE motor - it has been done several times. I've heard of max 32 psi on a built GE with proper tuning. I've run 19psi on mine. My controller maxes at 20psi. That is risky though. I will have the tuning checked sometime this summer.

You have done work with Sound Performance - so you know already. Of course they are great. The swap is going to cost some labor though. I take it you're in the Chicago land area? There are a couple of other guys around that may help you for cheaper. Talk with Quickturbo. He dropped his own motor. There is also another shop in the are whose name escapes me at this point that may be of assistance to you. I will check it out. If you are in the Cali area - I've heard good things about SP engineering as gslx4s states. Also there is PHR, PF, Toyomoto, and many others perfectly capable of doing the job. Do your research first though. Check out our FAQ. I see you know of Ebanks and Cory. Cool cats - good luck.

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My SC300 has 139,000 miles. The engine, however, still seems to be in fantastic shape. Would it be a bad idea to try to turbocharge this high mileage engine?

On the one hand, I am considering just going to powerhouseRacing.com and doing the swap because ultimately I want a 450rwhp luxury car. On the other, I would love to learn about the car and turbocharge my current engine, but not if the 139k miles will make it an even more fragile task than my newbie self can handle.

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Hi, I'm in the same boat...I'm looking forward to buy a used SC300 just to do the 2JZ-GTE conversion.  I'm trying to find one that cost around $3-5K(used-raped) I don't really care about the engine or mileage, but does it need to be a 5 spd for the swap?

This is a question I'm highly interested in hearing an answer to as well! Powerhouse says the conversion FROM THEM is only available for 5spds. I e-mailed concerning the reasoning for this, but they didn't respond.

I would love a final answer as to if the swap can be done on autos (obviously anything is possible, but is it feasible?)

EDIT- Just was looking at clint's page

http://home.austin.rr.com/turbolexus/SC300...%20-%20Body.htm

And saw this:

Engine/Drivetrain:

Twin turbo 2jz-gte engine conversion from naturally aspirated 2jz-ge

        95 SupraTT 6spd ECU and harness

        Custom tachometer driver board

        SupraTT intercooler and piping

        SupraTT intank fuel pump

Getrag 6-speed manual transmission conversion from 4spd auto

        5spd SC300 clutch/brake pedal assembly

        Modified 6spd shifter assembly

        3.13 limited slip rear differential swap from 4.27 open differential

        Custom fabricated driveshaft

        SS Braided Clutch line

VSV Bypass boost increase mod

AEM Cam Gears - gray (to be installed)

NOS - 50hp wet single fogger (to be installed)

NOS - Remote Bottle Opener

NOS - Bottle Blanket and Heater

So it looks like it can be done, and it was done by powerhouse as well :blink:

So, I guess the question now is - what's the difference in doing this swap over the 5spd?

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