Is250 2006 150K RWD A960E Transmission
Started with Transmission Codes after a dealer CSP of carbon cleaning. These two incidents could be completely unrelated. But then again there is evidence of other users with similar instances.
Initial problems was Torque Converter Problem / VSC which transformed into my car getting stuck in 3rd gear and not going to the higher gears. RPM will be very high. This might be called a limp or safe mode to allow the car to drive. Codes P2757 and P0761
After much reading . I changed TCC and SLU solenoids along with a ATF filter and fluid change. Enough to get the color to change from black to something more red. Parts 35210-50010 (SL1/TCC) and 3528030050 (SLU)
After the replacement car shifted smoother and the Torque converter code went away. But still not going out of 3rd sometimes. Code changed to
P2714 and P0761 Solenoid C stuck off
Iv checked the resistance of each solenoid and it was within the literature value of a certain Manuel or about 0.2 Ohms higher than high operating value. I thought this was ok? As the new part I got for the TCC was also 0.2 higher. I also used techstream to command each solenoid to perform. In most cases I can hear a faint sound when each is activated. Wish it has the pressure value of each solenoid ( I couldn’t find it on my version of TS)
The only other steps outside of a new transmission would be ( none of which were said to be a definitive solution)
Change transmission wire? ( how would one check this to know if its ok?)
Replace Solenoid C 3524050030
Replace SLT 3529034010
Update Calibrations for transmission ( My dealer will not offer this said it won’t do anything)
Does anyone have experience with these issues or have a solution?
Hey guys! I'm new on this forum. This is my first post, but hopefully it's an interesting one. I have a 99 LS400 with 152k miles on it. A few weeks ago, it started taking more and more turns of the key to start it, until one day, when all I got was the infamous single click. So I figured it's time to replace the starter and ordered a Denso Remanufactured one. It came in late yesterday, and my friends and I got started. We finished today and got the car all put back together. When I went to start it, it started right up! However, right after it turned over, there was a very high pitched whining/whirring noise ( like something spinning very quickly) which lasted a second or two. I've tried starting it about 12-13 times since then, and it does it almost every time, although the noise has gotten a bit quieter.
My friends and I immediately suspected that the noise was coming from the starter not disengaging and pulling back out of the flex plate after starting it. After doing some quick searching on this forum, I figured we were probably right about that theory. Is this because we possibly didn't seat the starter properly? Maybe it might've been at a slight angle? But the two 14mm bolts went right in and we tightened them properly. The starter seemed like it was very stable and properly fitted. Or is this just an issue with the starter itself?
In any case, my main concern is... Will this cause any long term problems to the flex plate or something? Will the new starter go out quickly? Basically, what should I do at this point?
Thanks in advance guys!
PS. I have to take the LS400 on a 900 mile road trip from Chicago to NY tomorrow . That's why I'm kinda anxious and worried about this noise haha. At least we got the starter replacement done fairly quickly and on time. I have to say, although it was an annoying job, it really wasn't as bad as I was expecting!
A few days ago when placing my car in drive it seemed like it wanted to start in 3rd gear. I ran the diag codes and got 62 and 63 indicating that the #1 and #2 shift solenoids have failed from either an electrical issue or they are stuck. This seemed to happened right after I was messing with my throttle position sensor, not sure what kind of part that played in the malfunction.
Basically I was wondering if anyone has changed these out by themselves. In the research that I have done it appears that the valve body has to be removed and that scares the -- out of me.
If anyone has any input it would be greatly appreciated.