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Sc300 Won't Run


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Hi everyone, i am brand new to this forum. I just purchased a '95 sc300, it is a little beat up and dirty, but a great car nonetheless. i decided to scrub the engine bay and now it won't run. I didn't use a pressure washer, just a normal hose. the ecu is showing no codes (when i connect the TE and TE1 pins the CEL just constantly flashes with no pattern). how do i check the AFM and how do I find out if the problem is the coil packs? i really appreciate any help, the car has been down for 2 days and i miss it. sean

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You have 1 coil. Chances are you got water in the distributor or the spark plug boots. If it's just your distributor, then take the cap off and dry it all up real good. You will need to remove the intake manifold if the second is true. This is the only way to get in there. Then pull the boots off the plugs. Blow some compressed air in there or figure a way to dry it up.

If the air meter had a problem - the car "should" still start at least. Might not run very well.

Next time, wash the motor while it is running and be very carefull around the spark plug area and any other area with wires for that matter. I put a plastic bag on the distributor and any fuse boxes and try not to hit any wires with direct water. Don't shut it off again until it is dry. Take it for a drive first or something.

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I already took the dist cap off a few days ago. it was nice and dry, but the rotor looked like it had been chewed up where it makes contacts to the points(?) in the cap. i put a new after market rotor on and it is still the same. the car will run, but it won't really drive and it seems like it is running on only 5 (or so) cylinders. any ideas, thanks a million for the help

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I already took the dist cap off a few days ago.  it was nice and dry, but the rotor looked like it had been chewed up where it makes contacts to the points(?) in the cap.  i put a new after market rotor on and it is still the same.  the car will run, but it won't really drive and it seems like it is running on only 5 (or so) cylinders.  any ideas, thanks a million for the help

It's possible that there is a little moisture built up inside the distributor cap and the spark plugs. Have you run the engine with the hood down yet, and taken the spark plugs out and blow dried?

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Shoot.... I thought you mean it wouldn't turn over...

You have a new cap. Next is button - then wires, plugs, coil, - do you know when the last major service was and what was done? Chances are, the maf is ok if it is not throwing a code. Do a full 80k tune up. You might still have water in #6 boot - the worst place to get it.

Are you in Louisville, KY? Have the dealer check the vin for the last service - if it was ever serviced at a delear, they can tell you when where and what. That will give a good starting point. The problem could be anything. Are you sure you ran the diag procedure correctly?

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I did not replace the cap because it looked fine, i did replace the rotor. AWJ, what do you mean by 'Next is button'? I will do new cap, plugs, and wires tomarrow. It looks like a real PITA to take apart the intake. Are there any gaskets i need to get? i only have a print out from MKIV.net on how to do the procedure on a supra.

As far as the diag, i did it on both Diag ports (under hood and then under dash) and i bridged TE and TE1. I found discriptions on different websites. One said make the connection and then start the car, the other said start the car and then make the connection. any of the four ways i tried it, it still had the constant flash. Is that the default if the ECU doesn't detect codes. Everyones help has been fantastic, don't try to get help on supra sites, they don't seem very open!

yes, i am in Louisville, KY...all of 4 months now and loving it!! sean (sorry about the long windedness)

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I just replaced my plugs with Iridiums. Getting the throttle body off was a royal pain. My biggest problem was getting the coolant hose off. The clamp was installed upside down and it took a good two hours of wrangling to get it off. It was difficult to get back on also but maybe only a 1/2 hour of cussing. Did you happen to cover your alternator? If not, that could be contributing to your trouble.

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By button, I meant rotor. The directions you got off mkiv will work as long as they are for the na motor wich I think they have on there too. It won't hurt to replace the gaskets but it is not necessary. Plenty have done it without replacing them. I'd say just troubleshoot from there. Hard to give advice without being there. As far as the diag procedure - I think you are just supposed to turn the key to the on position and not actually start the car. I need to check though.

Louisville is not bad - been there a few times. We should arrange a meet in the future with the other guys. Check the meets forum - I post up info on occasion. We just had a supra meet and charity car show in Cincy. With all the bad stuff happening in Cincy though - I don't think I'll be back. Acutally have an opportunity to relocate to Florida in the works, although I should not be talking about it yet.

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thanks for the advice. i ended up putting on new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. it did the trick. pretty much all of the plugs were sitting in water! it was such a pain since the NA intake has to be removed, but boy was my 120k throttle body dirty! it needed a good cleaning anyways. thanks for the advice again! sean

PM me if anyone in KY/cinncy wants to get together to hang sometime.

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