Hello everyone, I’m new GX owner, and unfortunately I kind of regret it...
Long story short, I bought the vehicle from a used dealer, and it had a bad O-ring seal between the actuator and the T case. But, I did not discover this until about 400 miles later, I noticed grinding coming from the center console. I drained the T case and all that come out was a small about of oil and metal shavings. After filling it, it still made the grinding/ratcheting noise. The dealer owned up and fixed the leak, but told me not to worry about the noise.
Fast forward about 3 months and the Lexus dealer wants $4600 to service the T case, and no local mechanics will work on it because it requires “specialty tools.”
At this point I feel stupid going back this late to the dealer and asking them to repair the issue they caused. However, there are after market kits available or used T cases ($200 and $2000 respectively).
If you were in my shoes, what would you do? The truck is drivable, but I bought it because I wanted a bullet proof rig!
I appreciate any help!
So in the attached image you can see the list of dtcs I have on a 2000 rx 300 AWD
I have tested coils and replaced spark plugs on 2-4-6, all should be in perfect shape.
I have tested unplugging the coils I could easily access with the entire intake assembled, which seemed to not affect the idle, leading me to believe that perhaps those spark plugs in the back are no good.
I am going to head back out now to work on getting to and replacing the 1-3-5 spark plugs, if I can manage.
1. With the intake and throttle body(s?) removed, is it worth any attempt to remove the o2 sensor from above? I tried from below several times, with PB blaster let to sit overnight, to no avail.
2. As I was taking off the intake filter lid, I could swear that one of the two "vacuum" hoses directly behind it, may have been unattached. I followed the one that is attached and it seems to lead to the Fuel Injector rail for 2-4-6. With this logic, would it make sense that the other tube leads to 1-3-5 injectors, and all this could have been from the vacuum leak causing those cylinders to run lean/misfire?
3. Is there anything else I should check while I have the throttle body's off (and cleaned up beautifully) like the MAF, etc? I do have a multimeter, but I have only tried using it a couple of times and am not 100% on which items to check for which values.
4. Is there anyone here with any insight on what values to check on my Code Scanner's "Live Data"? I found a great OBD2 scanner, but I don't know how to use these tools to verify the fix...
My plan now is to replace the 1-3-5 spark plugs, reassemple the intake, verifying all connections are made and see how she runs... but I will work at the o2 sensor or anything else possible, while it's apart.
Thank you if you read this! I am new to the forum, as I just purchased this car for my wife, so thanks in advance, if anyone hears this!