Hello! My name is Jake and I have an 04 RX330 with 230,000 miles on it. Not certain on the history of it but I have gotten it with no heat and an overheating problem(EDIT: previous owners said it has overheated on them). I immediately knocked out the easy stuff, checked coolant levels, verified fans were working. So I end up doing serious work that it needed: waterpump, timing belt, power steering pump, upper/lower intake gaskets, thermostat(THM 117-$11.32 at napa), valve cover gaskets, spark plugs. I end up finding smoke swirling out of a crack in the radiator while the car was idling for an hour during a fuel injector decarbonizing process. I end up replacing the radiator as well as the fan motors with the relay because the fans wouldn't turn on. I ended up using a power probe straight to the old fan motors and only fan #2 worked. I end up putting it all together-bled all of the air out of the cooling system with an airlift evacuation tool-and this thing is still overheating! Today I pulled it in and put the scantool on it-temp reads 244 degrees, so it's up there. I take a laser thermometer gun and the passenger-side (or upper hose) of the radiator read 183 degrees give or take and the part of the intake that the sensor screws into was around the same. So I thought it's only a $20 sensor, and replaced it-also considering it had a previous P0117 code(engine coolant temperature circuit low input). I know when the DTC is aiming at the input part of a circuit, it's talking about something with the sensor. I thought this would do it, BUT the car still overheats via gauge. Good news was I had heat, so I'd blast it when it starts climbing up and it'd slowly go down. I'm really stumped now, because I know the heater core acts as a mini radiator, but it doesn't make sense that the heatercore cools the engine down but not the fans and radiator being fully functional. The upper heater hose is piping hot with pressure but the lower hose is room temperature with pressure, I verified by squeezing the hoses. Is the thermostat defective? I installed it with the wobbler pin positioned at the top via installation instructions. I feel like I might run a compression test tomorrow to check the head gaskets, but I feel like I'm missing another sensor or something-I'm a freshman in college so anyone with experience I'd greatly appreciate it!
Selling to highest bidder on eBay. I suppose it is appropriate to post here:
It has been a good car. Rebuilt ECU according the LSCowboy and Yamae recommended capacitors. Shifts like a dream.
New transmission mount and timing belt and water pump done this past week 8/20/17.
Leather as seen in pics but I just found an exact car with nicer leather seats also 110K, that I can give you that info if you are interested.
If interested in this car please reach me at 781-449-9990. I and the car are located in Sarasota Florida. Always has been a Florida car.
I took my 2007 RX350 to a local Lexus dealer's service station in Plano, TX for an oil change and the mileage on it is around 102500. Service rep suggested a 100K mileage service for a cost of $300 and I agreed. However, their technician is suggesting me to replace "Water Pump Assembly" and "Steering Rack and Pinion" and provided me an estimate of $2700 ($1K for pump, $1.7K for the rack). I felt like it is very expensive repair and I did not go for the replacement. Reasons given to me for the replacement was that the pump is "starting to seep" and the Rack and Pinion is "leaking front both sides". However, I do not see any fluids being leaked on my garage floor and I do not notice any difference in the way I feel my steering wheel. Is it a reasonable estimate for those parts and what are the best alternative repair locations? Thanks much for your suggestions.
By LS Fan
So I have a 1998 LS400 with 170,000 miles on it. It has been babied and garaged. It is in fantastic shape. One morning this week I started the car, drove about a mile and noticed that the temperature gauge was just under the red line. It normally hangs out just under the halfway mark. I tuned around and drove home as not wanting to run it too hot. Here's what i checked on to determine the issue. Water pump, timing belt, thermostat, all radiator hoses and new coolant was just done 12,000 miles ago. This check out normal. Then I thought that it might be the sensor/sending unit indicating the wrong temperature to display on the gauge. I was going to just buy a new one and change it out, but then I thought of hooking up my OBDII scan tool to check the engine temperature. Sure enough the engine temperature read normal through the real-time scan tool. Here's my logic. If the scan tool shows the correct temperature as read from the ecm computer, it must be getting the temperature sent to it from the sensor correctly which means that there isn't a reason to change out the temperature sensor as a possible fix. I believe that I can rule it out. I think that only leaves me the instrument gauge itself that could be the culprit in this issue. Also, I think that this is the part I need. CLICK-HERE
If this is the issue, would it be better to just buy the gauge and change it out or send the instrument cluster in somewhere to be rebuilt? Also, occasionally the tach sticks at zero so a good slap on the top of the dashboard above the gauge fixes it. Maybe a rebuild of the instrument cluster would fix this too.
Please help me figure out this dilemma. I try to keep everything on the car working at 100% so even if the car isn't running hot, I want the gauge to report the correct temperature.
By Rocca's Lex
I recently just had my water pump replaced due to my car running hot when I drove in speeds over 70 miles and above. Now I am noticing that I continue to have to add Antifreeze when I take long trips and after a while the car still is running hot when I drive long distances in rates of speed over 70. Why does my car continue to need Antifreeze added? All the leaks were addressed when the Water Pump was changed.