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What is the best system to repair paint chips? I have seen some repair kits advertised. I think one company began with an L.

The chips are on my hood above the autobond (clear factory installed film on the front of the car). It is annoying because I have a black GS and the chips are very obvious to the eye. However the chips do not go down to the bare metal.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks.

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just use one of those new touchup pens, all you do is press it on the chip and your done

follow up with a clearcoat, and your favorite wax, and you will never be able to tell it was there.

i've used that method many times with great success, its really simple

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  • 2 weeks later...

~One man’s opinion / observations ~

Clean – Paint – Sand level – Polish – Protect

·Establish the vehicles paint colour code that can be found on a plaque in the engine compartment or from your vehicle dealership.

·Purchase a touch-up paint from the dealership, Paint Scratch (paintscratch.com specializes in original factory touch up paint) or a touch-up pen from AutoSharp pen (autosharpen.com)

·Test the paint in an inconspicuous area before using to ensure colour match

·Use a cleaning product that will clean the area of oil, crease, dirt, polish and wax (P21S Total Auto Wash)

·Use a sanding block and 1200 grit paper (Meguirer’s Unigrit Block), soak the block and paper overnight, with a water / soap solution 6:1 for lubrication, or a spot sanding tool (Griot’s P/N 50875) using a light to medium pressure to clean any surface rust or deposits of dirt or wax/polish.

·Soak the area to be repaired with the lubrication solution and keep it well lubricated while sanding

·Once the area is thoroughly cleaned, apply a primer using a touch-up paint applicator (Groit’s P/N 50406)

·Dip the tip of the applicator into the primer and gently touch the paint chip with the tip of the applicator. Should you over-fill; use a clean applicator to soak up any excess.

·Once the primer is thoroughly dry, using either the paint applicator, not the oversized brush that comes with the manufactures touch-up paint, or an AutoSharp Pen touch-up paint applicator. The pen features a felt tipped applicator that allows you to literally "colour" the damage away.

·Apply clear coat paint in the same manner a coloured paint

·Allow each coat of applied paint to dry for >2-3 hours before the application of subsequent coats

·Use a back and forth motion with the sanding block and paper (do not use circular movements) smooth out the repair and ensure that it is level with the paint film surface Try to limit sanding to the immediate area of the repair

Use a mild polish to restore surface gloss after carefully rinsing away surface and finish by applying wax / sealant protection

~Hope this helps~

Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/

justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*

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~One man’s opinion / observations ~

Perhaps I did not make it clear, as I did not mean to intimate that sanding with a wooden block is the same as ‘wet sanding’ with a high speed rotary

Use a sanding block and 1200 grit paper (Meguirer’s Unigrit Block), soak the block and paper overnight, with a water / soap solution 6:1 for lubrication, or a spot sanding tool (Griot’s P/N 50875) using a light to medium pressure to clean any surface rust or deposits of dirt or wax/polish.

·Soak the area to be repaired with the lubrication solution and keep it well lubricated while sanding

Wet sanding (with a high speed rotary polisher):

For light scuff marring on the paint film surface that cannot be removed with an abrasive compound (like Meguire’s ™ Duel Action Cleaner Polish) Soak some 3M™ s #2000 and #2500 grit paper overnight in car wash concentrate solution, then using 5:1 Woolite / Distilled Water solution in a spray bottle as lube, using the rotary attach the # 2000 grit Velcro backing to the rotary disc, at 1100 rpm this should minimize the scuff / marring, then move onto the #2500 grit which will probably leave a haze on the paint. Use a (Meguire’s™ #2) Fine Cut Machine polish using a firm pressure on a foam pad; then go to Meguire’s™ Duel Action Cleaner Polish, then a Swirl Mark Remover (Meguire’s #9) finally apply a protecterant. The scuffmarks /marring should be cleared from the paint surface.

~Hope this helps~

Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/

justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*

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  • 5 months later...

To follow up on the initial post, has anyone tried or used the Langka chip-repair system? After reviewing their website www.langka.com, I'm tempted to try it (can't stand the chips on the hood of my new GS!). Your thoughts and comments are much appreciated.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Has anyone tried or used the Langka chip-repair system? Still waiting to hear the comments.

B) I have used the Langka system with very good results on non metallic paint and with mixed results on metallic paint.  It beats the old "put it on in thin layers" and buff out the excess.  The problem with metallic touch ups is that the metallic particles cannot be suspended as they are when sprayed.  You will have this problem with any touch up that is metallic.  As far as touch up paint is concerned, I have found that the paint supplied by Paint Scratch is the best that I have ever used; much better than the Lexus brand.  Their url is: www.paintscratch.com.

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