I recently purchased a 1997 Lexus ls400 coach edition with 176k miles. As we were driving it home, the check engine light came on. We took it in to a shop that we've been going to for years and got a reading. They said it was the catylitic converters and that they needed to be replaced in order to pass inspection in Virginia. Since that shop only used brand new parts, each converter would cost around 2 grand. I started looking for cheaper alternatives and found some on rock auto and carparts.com for around $42-300 and was wondering if those would be a good idea to buy. Most of the ones I found had warranties so that would lessen the risk.
By Dylan Schultz
i have a 98 ls400 with about 244,000 miles on it. I’m having this very odd issue with the car. When I come to a stop light/ sign, the battery light comes on, rpms drop straight to 0 and the engine dies. Air and radio some times stay on. If I put it in park and restart the car the light goes away then its fine to drive until.. ya guest it I come to another stop. It does the exact same thing over an over at each complete stop. I assumed it was the alternator and I replaced it yesterday. No battery light, or weird idols happened for about a day. it is back to doing the battery light thing. If anyone has any Ideas of what it could be, or how to fix this issue id really appreciate it. ALSO not sure how old my battery is, changed the negative battery terminal when I did the alternator. Positive could be the problem (Corrosion on positive terminal) or maybe the terminal cable(s)?? Im very new to working on cars and any information is appreciated and retained.
By Dylan Schultz
If anyone could help it would be gladly appreciated. I have a check engine light on my ls400. Took it to autozone to let them use the code reader on the car. They told me one of the solenoids are bad on my transmission. If anyone can tell me, or help me how to correctly replace the solenoid and what tools I need I’d very much appreciate it. Or should I just have a shop do it?? Thanks
So in the attached image you can see the list of dtcs I have on a 2000 rx 300 AWD
I have tested coils and replaced spark plugs on 2-4-6, all should be in perfect shape.
I have tested unplugging the coils I could easily access with the entire intake assembled, which seemed to not affect the idle, leading me to believe that perhaps those spark plugs in the back are no good.
I am going to head back out now to work on getting to and replacing the 1-3-5 spark plugs, if I can manage.
1. With the intake and throttle body(s?) removed, is it worth any attempt to remove the o2 sensor from above? I tried from below several times, with PB blaster let to sit overnight, to no avail.
2. As I was taking off the intake filter lid, I could swear that one of the two "vacuum" hoses directly behind it, may have been unattached. I followed the one that is attached and it seems to lead to the Fuel Injector rail for 2-4-6. With this logic, would it make sense that the other tube leads to 1-3-5 injectors, and all this could have been from the vacuum leak causing those cylinders to run lean/misfire?
3. Is there anything else I should check while I have the throttle body's off (and cleaned up beautifully) like the MAF, etc? I do have a multimeter, but I have only tried using it a couple of times and am not 100% on which items to check for which values.
4. Is there anyone here with any insight on what values to check on my Code Scanner's "Live Data"? I found a great OBD2 scanner, but I don't know how to use these tools to verify the fix...
My plan now is to replace the 1-3-5 spark plugs, reassemple the intake, verifying all connections are made and see how she runs... but I will work at the o2 sensor or anything else possible, while it's apart.
Thank you if you read this! I am new to the forum, as I just purchased this car for my wife, so thanks in advance, if anyone hears this!