What do you all suggest as the best pure synthetic oil for a 2003 ES 300 with 209,000 miles? Runs perfectly with a very small (weekly drip) using Mobil 1 (5W-20). Also, what filter is recommended. Located in NC Piedmont region. Car is only driven <5000 miles a year.
-> I tried polishing them already. well it looks like only the right side is still white-ish, while the other side has been quite oxidized (dark appearance). I could see it is actually white light during night time outside the vehicle. But it seems a bit yellowish once you are inside and take it for few rounds. As you mentioned, I used plastic polish.
-> When I bought off the car, it wasn't originally came pre-installed within. I had to install it by ourselves. Went to independent CNG workshop and have it installed.around $1068 including labor. came with 1 year kit warranty. To be honest, you could see many taxis, even private cars using CNG considering the hikes on gasoline right now here (gas price is updated weekly on Wednesday here.
-> Guess I mistook AWD -> 4WD. Mine's AWD then. Transmission is U140F.
-> i had it taken to workshop once, was told by the mechanic power steering fluid..which was due to my failing return hose. not sure about leaks. But right now I do have to check the ATF level i.e every 2 weeks or so, topup about 1.8-2 liters (2.1 quarts in US standard). Weird enough, couldn't locate any ATF dripping. Or did it travel somewhere else ? Or this is normal actually ?
Oh I'll be sure to clean her throughly before letting her sleep in my mechanic workshops. Planned to have major service on her (leaks, drippings, airflow sensors, etc) as well as have her mount struts changed if required. althought I recenty finished cleaning the throttle body by myself.
P.S the IACV screws were hard to come off. Untill now I still haven't been able to open them. Seems legit enough for such factory locked screws
I've noticed a knocking sound from the engine compartment at cold start-up's. Gone in 1-2 seconds. Guessing is a engine lubrication problem. I run Mobile 1 at 5-7 thousand mile intervals and the 2012 ES350 has ~60,000 easy miles in the AZ. sunshine.
Is this development bad on the mechanics? Should I be alarmed?
Any idea as to a cause and any potential fixes? Recommended oil aditives?
How's that for four questions? Thanks for any assistance.
Hi fellow Lexus enthusiasts. You can skip down to the bold text if you do not want to read the background of my post :whistles:
I recently drove my 2001 RX300, which I had acquired last October, on a road trip between Chicago, IL and Toronto, Canada between July 16 and July 25. The only maintenance-related issue that had to be taken care of, an oil change, was completed. I took the car to my local mechanic a couple of weeks before we left and I had him test-drive for a few blocks. He stated, based on his observations, that the car ran well and could be trusted to make it to Toronto and back in one piece.
With about 137,000 miles, this car ran like a top with no loss of power, no transmission jerking, and got roughly 19-20 mpg the entire way with the a/c running at full blast. Driving around Toronto, my mpg went down, but the performance stayed just as well as it had been along the highway. However, a few days after we got to Toronto safely, I was exiting the highway (the famous Highway of Heroes) and, coming to a stop at the end of the downward-sloped ramp, the Oil Pressure light came on for roughly one second and then went out. Initially, I attributed the light to the steepness of the ramp, but I was disconcerted enough to go back out to the car the next day in the morning with a paper towel and pull the dipstick.
I popped the hood, drew the dipstick, held it level to my eye, and my jaw nearly dropped. Yep. The dipstick was as dry as the Grand Canyon, with not even a single drop on it
That same day, I picked up a jug of Mobil 5W-30 synthetic at a local auto store and added right up to the top mark on the dipstick (thank god I had a funnel with me). I dreaded that I would have to repeat the process when I got back to Chicago; when I did so (the dipstick was dry again when we got back), I got the same weight, only as mineral, and only added enough to bring the oil level near halfway between the two marks. Again, there were zero issues related to performance along the way back, and it still amazes me that this is possible. Unfortunately, it never occurred to me to check the oil level at any stopping point along the way in either direction, so I have no clue what the burn rate is .
Here in Chicago, the car often sits for days at a time in the same spot on the street if it's not winter, as I prefer to ride my bike for the fuel economy B). I would have noticed fresh oil spots under my car if there was a leak, and (with the exception of a FEW start ups) there is no smoke coming from the tailpipe either in city or on the highway. To be specific, there is a small amount of bluish smoke upon startup, but ONLY once in a while - it does not happen each and every time the car is started.
Yesterday, I went back to the same mechanic to tell him about this little problem. He replied that, as there is no leakage, the engine is burning up oil in small quantity, which was not obvious until my trip. I was advised by him to switch to a heavier oil at the next change to reduce the likelihood of it getting burnt.
A couple of questions to you, for those of you currently running oils heavier than 5W-30 in the RX300: how heavy have you gone without appreciable decline in performance? How heavy is it possible to run and still be able to operate the vehicle in the winter? (keeping in mind that Chicago winters, although not as cold as the Arctic, are certainly powerful) And lastly, is warm-up time affected badly by a heavier oil (both in summer and winter)?
Any pointers that I can get are highly appreciated. ^_^