I just became the proud new owner of a rare 1992 Es300 5 speed. I've been looking for a long time and finally tracked one down. Its in pretty good shape, I got lucky and found one with only 1 previous owner and she had it what work was done on it performed at a local toyota dealership. But it isn't perfect by any means...
It has 398.000 miles on it for starters. There aren't any leaks fortunately and the transmission still seems to have life in it but obviously it isn't going to last too much longer without my divine intervention (and hopefully LexusOwnersClub.com too). Not too many cosmetic issues. I bought it in the Sacramento area so the front seats leather is dry and have split a few seams on the drivers side and the leather on the door panel surrounding the door lever has dried and shrunk to the point of needing replacement. The rear Passenger window came out of place and both mirrors are loose at the pivot point that attaches to the car body. Also the power antenna and motor is broken and the passenger side speaker doesn't work. Otherwise its in very good shape. I plan on rebuilding or replacing as much as possible on it or at least whats reasonable and when I do that I would like to upgrade as much as possible. Basically I'm going for a build based on the Midship Runabout guide ( http://midshiprunabout.org/mk2/why-the-3vz-fe-is-the-best-toyota-v6/ ) and the Toysrme 3vz-fe tuning guide ( http://www.mr2.com/forums/threads/1899-Toysrme-s-N-A-3vz-fe-Tuning-Guide-(Applies-to-all-N-A-v6-s) ). I have a motor with 180,000 miles on it that I plan on doing a complete tear down and rebuild and I want to try to install an E153 transmission and use a LSD from a MR2. I haven't been able to find any useful info on a good clutch setup yet but perhaps someone here has some insight.
So basically I'm on here to get whatever this forum has to offer. Tips, tricks, advice, warnings, parts for sale or sources for parts would be greatly appreciated!!! Also since there is alot of knowledge and experience buried in this site I figured that my project would be a good opportunity to consolidate all of the significant information into one solid thread. I will be posting pics of what I'm starting with and will document my progress on the way. I will also post links to anything that I find useful as I come across it. I've read up on alot but I haven't had the opportunity to pursue anything major yet. I'm not incapable but feel free to explain things to me like I'm incompetent I'm sure it will make things easier in the long run.
My goal is to build a "brand new" and improved 1992 Lexus ES300 and I would a greatly appreciate any insight or guidance.
Thanks to all
I just wanted to say before i continue, I'm 21, Female and this is my first car I've owned for about 3 years ( not that any of this is really important)I'm starting to want to learn more about cars and how to fix my own problems and save money instead of relying on a mechanic. So far I have repaired my busted front bumper, repaired and replaced R headlight housing and bulb, and Replaced an 02 censor.
I'm having issues with my transmission shifting gears in cold weather, but it runs like a dream in the summer. This was a problem last winter but wasn't as bad. Before, while accelerating and merging over on high-way, it wouldn't use the 4th gear at first but then it would shift gears after driving for a bit. Does the same problem now, but won't change gears at all or takes 10 mins+ to shift itself. sometimes has issues shifting 2nd gear to 3rd.
es300 is 206xxx miles, 1999 model, and the transmission was rebuilt July 2016. I'm afraid this might have something to do with the previous failing but i want to try and fix the issue myself but can't figure out why this is happening or where to start. Coolant meter is always where it should be, oil is changed religiously, 02 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 needs to be replaced.
4000 rmp at 75mph... (o/d drive is not on). Sometimes when braking hard or getting off high way, doesn't accelerate as it should, almost as if it skips 2nd gear. Accelerating 1st to 2nd at stops goes back to normal if I restart engine.
Over all, why is this happening and how can I fix it? Only happens during cold temperatures below 40.
Hello. We just picked up this es300 in very good condition. We took a trip and during that trip, the overdrive stopped working. We made it home in limp mode, I disconnected the battery, reconnected, and the car has been driving fine for a few days now. Checked at O'Reilly's and there is no code for the knock sensors, which is apparently often the problem when the car won't shift into 4th gear. But, the no-overdrive problem seems to occur at times when the coolant sensor, engine sensor, thermostat, etc., isn't performing/reading correctly. So, I figured I should address the codes I'm getting now and see if the no-overdrive problem returns (yes, someone removed the check engine light so these didn't pop up when we bought it):
P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. After extensive reading, it seems that this code hardly ever occurs by itself and often resolves itself when you resolve another issue. So, I think we should wait on this and address the others first.
P1130 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1. B1S1, I believe, is behind the engine near the firewall. After reading a lot online, I think that if the B2S1 is replaced, this code might go away
P1153 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 1. This is the sensor right up front. I'm thinking that changing this might fix the other codes as well. Or, this is the best place to start, I'm guessing.
P1155 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 1. Again B2S1, the one in the front of the car that's easy to get to.
So, I guess I could buzz it over to my dad's house for him to check electrical continuity; or to figure out if the sensor's heater is working properly. However, I'm thinking simply replacing the sensor might be the best bet.
If I do change this sensor (B2S1), what is the Toyota part number? And, I've heard to not use off-brand parts for knock sensors, but since this is not a knock sensor, can I buy something locally at AutoZone that's readily available and comes with a warranty?
I'll probably do as you guys recommend. Much appreciated!!
-> I tried polishing them already. well it looks like only the right side is still white-ish, while the other side has been quite oxidized (dark appearance). I could see it is actually white light during night time outside the vehicle. But it seems a bit yellowish once you are inside and take it for few rounds. As you mentioned, I used plastic polish.
-> When I bought off the car, it wasn't originally came pre-installed within. I had to install it by ourselves. Went to independent CNG workshop and have it installed.around $1068 including labor. came with 1 year kit warranty. To be honest, you could see many taxis, even private cars using CNG considering the hikes on gasoline right now here (gas price is updated weekly on Wednesday here.
-> Guess I mistook AWD -> 4WD. Mine's AWD then. Transmission is U140F.
-> i had it taken to workshop once, was told by the mechanic power steering fluid..which was due to my failing return hose. not sure about leaks. But right now I do have to check the ATF level i.e every 2 weeks or so, topup about 1.8-2 liters (2.1 quarts in US standard). Weird enough, couldn't locate any ATF dripping. Or did it travel somewhere else ? Or this is normal actually ?
Oh I'll be sure to clean her throughly before letting her sleep in my mechanic workshops. Planned to have major service on her (leaks, drippings, airflow sensors, etc) as well as have her mount struts changed if required. althought I recenty finished cleaning the throttle body by myself.
P.S the IACV screws were hard to come off. Untill now I still haven't been able to open them. Seems legit enough for such factory locked screws