When Park Assist is on in my GS, it is incorrectly sensing something when I put the car in reverse. Took it in to the dealer, and diagnosis was a failed sensor. Quote to repair is $500 for parts and service.
Technician told me they need to pull the whole bumper off to repair this... Seems pretty steep to me... anyone have any similar issue or experience with this? The car is no longer under warranty....
My elderly mother bought a brand new Lexus 350 about 10 years ago. It has only 41k miles on it. The airbag sensor is broken and Lexus no longer makes the part. They told us (in writing) that the vehicle is not safe to drive. They searched for a part and came up dry. They said I could get it fixed by a 3rd party but when I tried, nobody will touch it because of liability. Lexus is not willing to fix it with a used part. I would expect Lexus to make this right - provide another vehicle or some sort of compensation, but I was told because the car is no longer under warranty they will not. Really? isn't this Lexus we're talking about? I would expect them to stand behind their name. Perhaps their reputation is not reflective of who they truly are as a company. Has anybody else experienced something like this?
Hello. We just picked up this es300 in very good condition. We took a trip and during that trip, the overdrive stopped working. We made it home in limp mode, I disconnected the battery, reconnected, and the car has been driving fine for a few days now. Checked at O'Reilly's and there is no code for the knock sensors, which is apparently often the problem when the car won't shift into 4th gear. But, the no-overdrive problem seems to occur at times when the coolant sensor, engine sensor, thermostat, etc., isn't performing/reading correctly. So, I figured I should address the codes I'm getting now and see if the no-overdrive problem returns (yes, someone removed the check engine light so these didn't pop up when we bought it):
P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. After extensive reading, it seems that this code hardly ever occurs by itself and often resolves itself when you resolve another issue. So, I think we should wait on this and address the others first.
P1130 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1. B1S1, I believe, is behind the engine near the firewall. After reading a lot online, I think that if the B2S1 is replaced, this code might go away
P1153 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 1. This is the sensor right up front. I'm thinking that changing this might fix the other codes as well. Or, this is the best place to start, I'm guessing.
P1155 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 1. Again B2S1, the one in the front of the car that's easy to get to.
So, I guess I could buzz it over to my dad's house for him to check electrical continuity; or to figure out if the sensor's heater is working properly. However, I'm thinking simply replacing the sensor might be the best bet.
If I do change this sensor (B2S1), what is the Toyota part number? And, I've heard to not use off-brand parts for knock sensors, but since this is not a knock sensor, can I buy something locally at AutoZone that's readily available and comes with a warranty?
I'll probably do as you guys recommend. Much appreciated!!
So im just wondering if im seeing this right .....i have been bitten by the apparent lexus goblin ....no response from gas pedal until the very bottom and search google found this cool site and posts from as far back as 2011 i believe and although i may have missed it NO SOLUTION....plenty of remedys and band aids but no real fix and lexus has been having these same problems with their cars from 98 to i think i saw someone post about a 2011 with the problem ...and still no solutions ...really? Or did i just miss them lol
By LS Fan
So I have a 1998 LS400 with 170,000 miles on it. It has been babied and garaged. It is in fantastic shape. One morning this week I started the car, drove about a mile and noticed that the temperature gauge was just under the red line. It normally hangs out just under the halfway mark. I tuned around and drove home as not wanting to run it too hot. Here's what i checked on to determine the issue. Water pump, timing belt, thermostat, all radiator hoses and new coolant was just done 12,000 miles ago. This check out normal. Then I thought that it might be the sensor/sending unit indicating the wrong temperature to display on the gauge. I was going to just buy a new one and change it out, but then I thought of hooking up my OBDII scan tool to check the engine temperature. Sure enough the engine temperature read normal through the real-time scan tool. Here's my logic. If the scan tool shows the correct temperature as read from the ecm computer, it must be getting the temperature sent to it from the sensor correctly which means that there isn't a reason to change out the temperature sensor as a possible fix. I believe that I can rule it out. I think that only leaves me the instrument gauge itself that could be the culprit in this issue. Also, I think that this is the part I need. CLICK-HERE
If this is the issue, would it be better to just buy the gauge and change it out or send the instrument cluster in somewhere to be rebuilt? Also, occasionally the tach sticks at zero so a good slap on the top of the dashboard above the gauge fixes it. Maybe a rebuild of the instrument cluster would fix this too.
Please help me figure out this dilemma. I try to keep everything on the car working at 100% so even if the car isn't running hot, I want the gauge to report the correct temperature.