Driver Door Lock Actuator

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I am fairly new here to the forum and thought I'd post my problem. I am a loyal Lexus owner and now have my first issue with my 2005 LS 430 with 90K miles. This Sapphire White beauty has been a dream car since day one and untill now, no issues what so ever.  Seems the actuator on my driver door will need to be replaced. From the research it seems to be the problem unless I am wrong?  When I'm sitting in the car and hit the internal door lock, all doors lock except the driver door lock and work fine. It is also a hassle because it won't lock when I use the remote smart key to lock the car. Because the driver doors won't lock the computer senses it and the alarm won't set, I get the warning beep alerting like a door ajar.  I have to manually lock the driver door before I exit, then I close the door then set the door lock/alarm. To unlock when returning to my car, I have to use the remote to roll down the window so I can reach inside to unlock the door because all doors unlock except my driver door. Now this is a Lexus and you Lexus owners know that this is unacceptable. Our cars are perfect in every way, they drive perfect, they look perfect and always work perfect. Lexus wants $1270 for the part and repair. Has anybody done this job as a DIY and if so, what problems had you had when doing it?  Been checking around for the price for the part and finding the cost to be between $300-$499  Would appreciate any information from other loyal owners out there and would appreciate any information to the fix had you done or had done. Thanks much all and will wait to hear back with any or all information to this issue,.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

K-Dog, I just took + hours this past Saturday and did it myself.  Cost $5 for the little motor purchased from Amazon Prime.

Was difficult but if you're methodical, it will be worth it and give you a real sense of pride.

Would have cost over $1000.  Check out the You Tube videos.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Having same problem with door locks is there a model number of the replacement motor.. also I'm here in New Jersey any places that can do this.. even Philadelphia area..thanks 


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've done both front doors, as they both eventually died. I used a $170 replacement on eBay, but it looks like you can just replace the electric motor for a lot less according to another poster above. It only takes a couple hours. Hardest part is wiggling the assembly out of the door.

What I can recall from memory:

Remove the door panel (I've seen other how-tos on doing this) and weather shield

Remove 2-3 bolts holding the actuator assembly to the door frame

Remove the 3 bolts holding the jamb on

Reach up in the door and disconnect the outer door handle

Disconnect the electrical harness

Wiggle the entire assembly out

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I replaced one on my LS430. Found the instructions on You tube site (rustbucketauto).

Got the part on Ebay - 10mm Flat Shaft FC-280PC-22125 - zinky86 (31740 )



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm having a similar issue with my driver's door as well. With mine however, it's intermittent. With mine, it fails when it gets hot out. In the mornings and evenings, the lock works fine, but in the heat of the afternoon, it doesn't. 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

So I replaced the driver's door over a year ago. The passenger more recently. Now the drive door is acting up again. Just like Chops mentions, when hot out it doesn't work. When colder it tends to work.

Had I mailed back my "core" to the eBay seller that I purchased both actuators from I would have had a lifetime warranty. Whoops. I'll try replacing just the motor this time.

IIRC, it took me about an hour to do the driver's door the first time. 30 minutes for the passenger side. However, I do have to disassemble the actuator itself to replace the motor but $5 < $170.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By riverrat4ever
      So my trunk was really full and I tried opening my trunk today. Sometimes when it is full, I've had to use a lot of force. This time, something snapped and I no longer felt resistance when pulling the trunk latch. 
      I removed the panels from the inside and took a look at the opening mechanism. The cable is still intact and i discovered how to open the trunk from the inside. However, there is no connection from the latch to the rest of the locking mechanism. When I used force, there was a part that broke. 
      The first picture shows the part that is broken. The black rubber and plastic parts used to be one part. The elongated plastic part used to be inside the car, while the black plastic part used to be behind the latch on the outside of the car. The square hole near my thumb behind the latch is where the rubber used to sit. The last picture shows where the elongated black plastic part used to connect to. The last picture's orientation is looking up. The black plastic part used to lift the silver metal part extending the wire. The wire would then pull the golden part in the third picture to open the trunk. The fourth picture shows an overall picture. If you look carefully at the fourth picture, there is a black cable that runs down the cavity in the center of the trunk door. That is the same cable that pulls the golden part of the mechanism, opening the door. 
      Essentially, the mechanism is no longer connected due to the broken part. The latch is not connected to the first part of the mechanism and thus, the second part of the mechanism is not working and I cannot open my door from the outside. Anyone know where I can get a replacement part and whether I can install it without opening any screws? 

    • By hunter_he
      My LS400 has suffered underneath hits for several times since I bought it last year. It suffered from a pile of pebble,uneven road and this morning a stone block in the parking lot.As a result, the engine shield was broken in several locations.I looked for part in the website but it was hard to find it.Does anyone have idea about where or find an engine shield for my 99 UCF20?
    • By Rainxspear
      Hit my 2012 Rx 350 on the side of a pretty tough fence and these are the resulting damages. Really need to know how much it will cost in order to fix the damages. Insurance will not help and all the costs are going to be out of pocket.
    • By jebrx 350
      I need to replace my engine and cabin filters and can't locate where and how to do so. I'm hoping that someone can post clear diagrams / video / instructions so I can do this job myself. I was told by tech that it (intake) was checked and I didn't need to change it but I have 17 K miles on these filters and want to be sure. Recently when having tires R&B the clerk showed me the engine filter location and said it would take 30 mins. because of the electronics hooked up. Sorry, I don't believe everything I'm told and need the truth from an outsider. Looking forward to some expertise advise on my 2009 RX350. Thanks,
    • By Tim W
      Does anyone know how to remove the old wiper blades? The SC430 hood prevents raising the wiper arm up to vertical in order to reach the detention pin on the wiper arm bracket and release the blade. Opening the hood gives some access, but the blade arm seems to move only about 4 inches away from the windshield before it stops. Has anyone performed the wiper replacement? Thank you!