I'm attempting to fix the leaking moonroof drain in my 2004 RX. This is a problem discussed at length on basically every Lexus forum. It's gotten so bad in my car, that heavy rain will now flood the passenger side of the car with standing water. The drain exiting the vehicle is clear. I poured water down the drain and some came out of the car... but not all of it. The rest of the water is not leaking out through the hole near the floor as is common in many posts. It's actually coming out through the box with all of the wiring connections (which I assume go to the passenger door) behind the passenger kick plate. Now, although I might be right in assuming that the wiring behind the kick plate is for the passenger door is for the door itself, I'm not 100% sure. I don't want to disconnect anything and cause a problem. I'm not a mechanic, I just can't afford the time or money to take this to the dealer to get fixed. So is it safe to disconnect these wires and do I have to disconnect the battery first? Because I'm almost certain I need to get behind there to fix the problem. I've searched extensively for any diagram that can tell me for certain what these wires I'm disconnecting control to no avail.
I need to fix this problem because at this point, I almost can't even drive the car in the rain and certainly can't with a passenger.
Hello! My name is Jake and I have an 04 RX330 with 230,000 miles on it. Not certain on the history of it but I have gotten it with no heat and an overheating problem(EDIT: previous owners said it has overheated on them). I immediately knocked out the easy stuff, checked coolant levels, verified fans were working. So I end up doing serious work that it needed: waterpump, timing belt, power steering pump, upper/lower intake gaskets, thermostat(THM 117-$11.32 at napa), valve cover gaskets, spark plugs. I end up finding smoke swirling out of a crack in the radiator while the car was idling for an hour during a fuel injector decarbonizing process. I end up replacing the radiator as well as the fan motors with the relay because the fans wouldn't turn on. I ended up using a power probe straight to the old fan motors and only fan #2 worked. I end up putting it all together-bled all of the air out of the cooling system with an airlift evacuation tool-and this thing is still overheating! Today I pulled it in and put the scantool on it-temp reads 244 degrees, so it's up there. I take a laser thermometer gun and the passenger-side (or upper hose) of the radiator read 183 degrees give or take and the part of the intake that the sensor screws into was around the same. So I thought it's only a $20 sensor, and replaced it-also considering it had a previous P0117 code(engine coolant temperature circuit low input). I know when the DTC is aiming at the input part of a circuit, it's talking about something with the sensor. I thought this would do it, BUT the car still overheats via gauge. Good news was I had heat, so I'd blast it when it starts climbing up and it'd slowly go down. I'm really stumped now, because I know the heater core acts as a mini radiator, but it doesn't make sense that the heatercore cools the engine down but not the fans and radiator being fully functional. The upper heater hose is piping hot with pressure but the lower hose is room temperature with pressure, I verified by squeezing the hoses. Is the thermostat defective? I installed it with the wobbler pin positioned at the top via installation instructions. I feel like I might run a compression test tomorrow to check the head gaskets, but I feel like I'm missing another sensor or something-I'm a freshman in college so anyone with experience I'd greatly appreciate it!
I have seen many posts about this but none that says it was successfully done.
Is there any one out there who has successfully updated a Gen4 nav and audio with ML to a Gen5 system ML?
If there is please share any info relating to:
1. What parts are needed to be changed
2. what connections need to be rewired or added.
3. Is the finished upgrade fully working or are there features that are missing?
Gen 4 Mark Levinson - note CLOCK button
Gen 5 with DVD and Mark Levinson - note AUDIO button
NEED HELP - Recently had 2005 RX 330 at Lexus of Tulsa (OK) - replaced water pump, radiator, and timing belt, and maintenance: oil change, new rear brakes, front brakes, 4 new tires. Upon delivery back to me (car was driven by the dealership staff from Tulsa back to Arkansas), the following warning lights were on ABS, BRAKE, and VSC as soon as I turned the vehicle on (the driver claims no lights were on when he delivered it). I immediately called them to inform them, and the vehicle was picked back up by the staff, taken back to the dealer, and then I was informed by the staff that diagnostic codes were showing C0278, C1223, and C1249 - they claim the brake actuator needs to replaced for $3300 - this does not make sense since they told me that they had road-tested the vehicle and it was supposedly fine before returning it to me. I am getting no help from them other than telling me they can put in a used acutuator for $1470.
One forum I checked suggested it may the wiring or sensor for the actuator (which is apparently near the water pump) that is acting up. Very frustrated after spending $$$ already.