New to this Lexus ES 350 Club: I always said I'd own a Lexus by the time I turned 60 (just as my Dad said he would own a Lincoln by the time he turned 60 - and he did). 2 weeks ago (and 5 months before my 60th bd), I did it. I now own a Deep Sea Blue Mica 2015 ES 350 with 44k miles in excellent shape. Prior to this, I drove a Toyota Avalon Limited, and I thought the ride could not be any more quiet or more smooth. I was wrong. The Lexus is far and away more solid, quiet, comfortable and smooth. I made a great choice for under $24k.
Hi I am selling my 1995 LS 400. It has approximately 200K miles on it.
This car might need a new steering pump, a new battery and side blinkers. Car has a small dent on the right front fender.
The car has very clean interior, leather has no tears, chrome wheels, new rear tires. Has two rear MagnaFlow mufflers (paid $400) + chrome tips on them. Registration is paid for until Nov 18.
Asking $850 OBO, car needs to go ASAP. Pick up Sherman Oaks, CA
Thanks for viewing
So a couple weeks ago I bought a used 92 LS400 on Craigslist for 1500. I went by myself to look at it and I have a vague knowledge of mechanics and how to look at used cars before buying them and I just bought it without having someone else look at it. After I bought it I had it inspected and found a myriad of issues. When I bought it I knew there was a power steering problem with a hose leaking and that didn't bother me also it needed a new battery so I got that when I bought it. I didn't know that it had a problem driving because I couldn't test drive it outside the little Street it was on but come to find out it shudders and hesitates when cruising and accelerating and they said that could be a crankshaft position sensor that's causing that. Also they said that the power steering pump may be bad as well as the rack and pinion if the hose does not remedy the problem. It's got bad tie rod ends, drive shaft flexible joint is bad, it's got a bad spark plug, valve cover gasket leak, some other gasket leak, needs a new fuel filter and the timing belt is in question whether or not it got changed... front tires are kind of low on tread. There's some minor aesthetic issues like the volume button broke, the LCD screen, the antenna, and there's some other little things I'm missing. The estimate I got from my mechanic was like 1800 so I just sourced the parts on RockAuto for like a quarter or less of what that cost is. Unfortunately I am on a tight budget so I only got the first thing I thought I needed, which was the power steering pressure line and the crankshaft position sensor. I got some decent information looking online for the replacement of the line but ultimately it was just trial and error taking things apart breaking things... it looked like the alternator was completely covered in power steering fluid so I removed it and Cleaned it with brake cleaner. I had to take it out anyway to be able to reach the line that need replacement. I also replaced the return hose, I think that was the main problem but it has a new pressure line now. I put in the new sensor, it was really easy unlike the pressure line. Once I got it all put together and filled up with new fluid, I decided to take it for a test drive as the steering was working quite well at the moment. When I get to the gas station and I started it up again it died on me, bad fuel pump. So here I am without my car temporarily, but I will be working towards getting it running and restored and possibly modified. I'll post more pictures as I get into it but that was just the Craigslist picture. this car needs a lot of love but I think it's going to be worth it in the end because I already have it and I'm kind of stuck with it. I really like this car though even though it needs a lot of work.
Recently purchased an RX-300 AWD. 208K Miles. Just had Timing Belt/Water Pump/Plugs/VVT Servo Valves changed. It runs great (other than the world's most annoying sunroof rattle...but that is for a different thread). BUT....It has a very odd transmission problem.
Only when it is very cold, it is hard to shift the transmission out of the Park position. It acts like there is a solenoid or a release valve after you push the shift button. You have to fiddle with it for about 15-20 seconds then it shifts out of park. Once warmed up even 5 minutes and for the rest of the day, it shifts in and out of park perfectly. Trans is otherwise acting absolutely fine...and yes, I plan to have it flushed by the area's top transmission shop and have them install a new ATP B187 trans filter I purchased.
Hello! My name is Jake and I have an 04 RX330 with 230,000 miles on it. Not certain on the history of it but I have gotten it with no heat and an overheating problem(EDIT: previous owners said it has overheated on them). I immediately knocked out the easy stuff, checked coolant levels, verified fans were working. So I end up doing serious work that it needed: waterpump, timing belt, power steering pump, upper/lower intake gaskets, thermostat(THM 117-$11.32 at napa), valve cover gaskets, spark plugs. I end up finding smoke swirling out of a crack in the radiator while the car was idling for an hour during a fuel injector decarbonizing process. I end up replacing the radiator as well as the fan motors with the relay because the fans wouldn't turn on. I ended up using a power probe straight to the old fan motors and only fan #2 worked. I end up putting it all together-bled all of the air out of the cooling system with an airlift evacuation tool-and this thing is still overheating! Today I pulled it in and put the scantool on it-temp reads 244 degrees, so it's up there. I take a laser thermometer gun and the passenger-side (or upper hose) of the radiator read 183 degrees give or take and the part of the intake that the sensor screws into was around the same. So I thought it's only a $20 sensor, and replaced it-also considering it had a previous P0117 code(engine coolant temperature circuit low input). I know when the DTC is aiming at the input part of a circuit, it's talking about something with the sensor. I thought this would do it, BUT the car still overheats via gauge. Good news was I had heat, so I'd blast it when it starts climbing up and it'd slowly go down. I'm really stumped now, because I know the heater core acts as a mini radiator, but it doesn't make sense that the heatercore cools the engine down but not the fans and radiator being fully functional. The upper heater hose is piping hot with pressure but the lower hose is room temperature with pressure, I verified by squeezing the hoses. Is the thermostat defective? I installed it with the wobbler pin positioned at the top via installation instructions. I feel like I might run a compression test tomorrow to check the head gaskets, but I feel like I'm missing another sensor or something-I'm a freshman in college so anyone with experience I'd greatly appreciate it!