code readers for my lexus

[tckinney951]

is there a code reader i can use for my 1990 lexus ls400

 

[Exhaustgases]

Yes there are. Some pretty expensive scan tools can do OBD1.

And here is how to do it at home with no code reader, and it works just fine.

And just use a smallish paper clip not a huge wire like in the photo. There is a data port on the engine also that has the correct terminals to jump.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

[tckinney951]

that is what i have been looking for.  the only issue i see is i cant get the car started my girlfriend ran it out of gas 1 time and then i was driving and started sputtering ;and i had to drive with one foot on the brake and one on the gas then it cleared up and drove fine for a couple of days  then it was having a really hard time starting but it Would start now it is to the point that it wont start and it sounds like it isnt getting any fuel. i replaced the filter  and then the  pump ;because i didnt hear it come on and i still dont so know im thinking it is the relay or resistor.  l love my ls 400 and i need to get it fixed so any ideas would be greatly appreciated

[Exhaustgases]

If its in good shape and you love it, then don't give up on it. To do the code test you don't start the car to do it.

To bypass the relay and resistor you use that same paper clip and jump from Fp to B+ in that data port on the driverside top front of the engine, you reach behind and kinda pull up on the little greyish brownish lid and it hinges forward, look down inside the little lid for the location of the terminals.

And you do need to make sure it has good fuel pressure first. Next check for spark. Also these cars have the ecu capacitor issue, and its not too big a deal to fix or have it fixed. Fixing a good car is better than wasting money on some other crappy brand. You kinda jumped to fast on replacing the fuel pump, though running them dry is not a good thing. If you do the bypass then the fuel pump should run all the time the ignition switch is turned on.

Other things that aren't going to let it start are things like the igniter, cam or crank sensors, wires to these items and the connectors. And maybe you thought it ran outa gas when it was really one of those sensors. Sensors can be intermittent.

And then yeah it could be fuel related, fuel system and even bad gas with water in it.  There are just allot of bases to cover to figure it out.

The thing about trying to figure it out is don't get fixated on one thing that you think it is, it maybe completely unrelated to what you think it is.

I'd say before anything you need a DMM and they are very cheap or free at harbor freight. First check the battery connections and the battery voltage. Make sure all the terminals of the fusible links have power 12 ish volts with engine off. Make sure all fuses are good. This is the starting point.  Then move on to the fuel pressure, its hard to check because you need to connect to the fuel rail with a gauge, and do that bypass to make the fuel pump run. The fuel pump won't keep running unless it sees an rpm signal that lets it know the engine is running, and that is why they have the ability to bypass to check for pump operation. Then check for spark and the spark plugs.

[VBdenny]

OBD1 readers are simple and cheap as they read only ancient computers. Look on Amazon or auto parts store. I bought one for less than $30. OBD2 readers are much more expensive

 

 

[sha4000]

OBD2 readers are cheap as well.

[VBdenny]

They have come down. Nice one now for a couple bucks . Cheap ones around $75

[sha4000]

I'm just talking about the ones that read codes and nothing else. Now the ones that have a lot of features still cost a bit more.

[VBdenny]

Order a cheap OBD 1 on Amazon. Maybe  les than $20. Paper clip thing works but reader is easier