LIFTED RX300

Lifted Rx300 With Big Tires

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I have a question. I have recently inherited my mom's 2010 RX 350, and I was planning to modify it to go overlanding/off roading. I was wondering what lift size to get and what tire/wheel size to get without changing the suspension. How much would it cost?I just really want to off road it soon. I was thinking somewhere around a 2.5 inch lift.

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No, it’s just that I’ve gotten really attached to the vehicle and it has so many memories.

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Well then, I've got 265/70r17 tires with rims with a 0 offset onto my 2005 rx330 with a 2.5inch lift. Should be able to do the same with the 2010, you sent have rear struts, just springs and shocks in the back so you don't have to worry about rear tire clearance like I do on my generation

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On 10/15/2018 at 12:20 AM, Brickwall said:

Well then, I've got 265/70r17 tires with rims with a 0 offset onto my 2005 rx330 with a 2.5inch lift. Should be able to do the same with the 2010, you sent have rear struts, just springs and shocks in the back so you don't have to worry about rear tire clearance like I do on my generation

Hey, you seem to be the expert on larger tires on gen 2 rx's, and this seems to be basically the only thread on the internet talking about larger tires on any rx's, so I joined to take part. I would like to fit some bigger rubber on my rx400h. I have 17x7.5 wheels with 40mm offset. I was going to order 235/65/17 tires, a bit larger than stock, but seeing you fit 265/70/17 and previously 245/65/17, I am wondering if you can give me some insight into what the largest tire I can fit with no lift would be. A handful of people run 255/55/18s, which are the same diameter as the 235/65/17s I was considering, but if I can go larger, I'd like to. I am fine with anything between 235 and 255, but it'd be great if I can get something 30" or more diameter. Could you tell me what the limitation would be? Have you experienced any rubbing and if so, where? It looks like the tires are about 1-2" below the spring perch of the strut in the rear. I assume that is avoided in your case by running a 0 offset wheel. I would like to run the wheels I have. That being said, I think a 30" tire should fit under that component even with factory offset. Could you tell me what the next thing that would rub would be? Did you have to trim any fender liners or anything inside the wheel well? Thanks!

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The world of lifting RX vehicles is still pretty small so there aren't exactly any definitive guides but like any other strutted vehicle the same limitations in tire/wheel fitment would apply. The first limitation on my 300 was the rear spring perches because they are squattier than the fronts. Side clearance of the spring perch will limit how tall and wide of a tire you can fit without modification or for a certain offset/spacer. The next limitation for me was rubbing when turned full clock, not acceptable to me and I was able to fit mine with no rubbing. The taller and wider the tire the turning clearance is greatly reduced, its geometry but you can figure it out with a straight edge. Clock the wheels and take a straight edge across the inside sidewalls to the nearest obstruction and you can measure how much taller of a tire will fit without rubbing but leave some cushion. The closest point of the tire should be at the horizontal axis of the tire but make sure you look at fender clearances as well.  Just take your time and measure everything until you are absolutely sure your fitment is what you want. You could also likely take it to a custom shop and they should be able to measure or use a jig to tell you what you can and can't fit.

I would not recommend bringing the tire tread up past the bottom of the spring perch. If you do and you do not have ample clearances you can easily slash your sidewalls. If you are sticking with stock suspension the steering changes shouldn't be as drastic but just be ready for it to handle differently. I have not had to trim anything for mine and do not have anything rub except when I have 300-400 extra pounds in it and the suspension takes a really hard hit, mostly the rear where the outside tread just catches the lip of the fender. I need a little more travel or slightly stiffer springs in the rear. I think I am also running a larger wheel spacer than necessary (2"). Same thing for the front but don't hit the fender lip unless it is a really really hard suspension hit and I am turning. There is enough travel and clearance in the front if I am going straight over that really hard hit. I do not rub on the inside of the tire when turning but it is the outside front of the tire that hits the fender liner. That is only because it was a cheap aftermarket liner I was in a hurry to get in there to get some protection for my trans cooler before a trip. I had to cut the vents into the plastic and they puckered out into the wheel well so the tire catches them. I need to reinstall it so it fits correctly and likely make a little aluminum plate/grill for the vent slots so that doesn't happen.

***Edit- Brickwall says you have springs and shocks on the rear of yours and not a strut so that makes it a lot easier. You are then pretty much limited by the strut and turning clearance of the front then,

Edited by hewitttech
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1 hour ago, hewitttech said:

The world of lifting RX vehicles is still pretty small so there aren't exactly any definitive guides but like any other strutted vehicle the same limitations in tire/wheel fitment would apply. The first limitation on my 300 was the rear spring perches because they are squattier than the fronts. Side clearance of the spring perch will limit how tall and wide of a tire you can fit without modification or for a certain offset/spacer. The next limitation for me was rubbing when turned full clock, not acceptable to me and I was able to fit mine with no rubbing. The taller and wider the tire the turning clearance is greatly reduced, its geometry but you can figure it out with a straight edge. Clock the wheels and take a straight edge across the inside sidewalls to the nearest obstruction and you can measure how much taller of a tire will fit without rubbing but leave some cushion. The closest point of the tire should be at the horizontal axis of the tire but make sure you look at fender clearances as well.  Just take your time and measure everything until you are absolutely sure your fitment is what you want. You could also likely take it to a custom shop and they should be able to measure or use a jig to tell you what you can and can't fit.

I would not recommend bringing the tire tread up past the bottom of the spring perch. If you do and you do not have ample clearances you can easily slash your sidewalls. If you are sticking with stock suspension the steering changes shouldn't be as drastic but just be ready for it to handle differently. I have not had to trim anything for mine and do not have anything rub except when I have 300-400 extra pounds in it and the suspension takes a really hard hit, mostly the rear where the outside tread just catches the lip of the fender. I need a little more travel or slightly stiffer springs in the rear. I think I am also running a larger wheel spacer than necessary (2"). Same thing for the front but don't hit the fender lip unless it is a really really hard suspension hit and I am turning. There is enough travel and clearance in the front if I am going straight over that really hard hit. I do not rub on the inside of the tire when turning but it is the outside front of the tire that hits the fender liner. That is only because it was a cheap aftermarket liner I was in a hurry to get in there to get some protection for my trans cooler before a trip. I had to cut the vents into the plastic and they puckered out into the wheel well so the tire catches them. I need to reinstall it so it fits correctly and likely make a little aluminum plate/grill for the vent slots so that doesn't happen.

***Edit- Brickwall says you have springs and shocks on the rear of yours and not a strut so that makes it a lot easier. You are then pretty much limited by the strut and turning clearance of the front then,

thanks for the reply. I will get out there today and take some measurements and pictures. I want to go with cooper tires and they have a rebate until the end of the month so I want to order as soon as possible. 

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I think you're stuck with 235/65r17's as your biggest, I had the next gen 235/55r19's and they would sometimes rub going around corners. I can only fit 265/70r17 cause I put 2012 highlander rear struts in it. That leaves you just over 29". 

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32 minutes ago, Brickwall said:

I think you're stuck with 235/65r17's as your biggest, I had the next gen 235/55r19's and they would sometimes rub going around corners. I can only fit 265/70r17 cause I put 2012 highlander rear struts in it. That leaves you just over 29". 

are you suggesting anything larger than that may rub on the rear lower spring perch, or somewhere else?

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looks like that rear spring perch is about .5"-.75" above the factory size tire. That is definitely the limiting factor here, and looks like a 235/65/17 (1" bigger than stock, aka 0.5" higher at the perch) is going to max it out. Other than that perch, it looks like the 255/65/17 would fit just about everywhere else, though I did not bother measuring with front wheels at full lock and half lock in relation to the fenders/liners once I saw the rear. 

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Yeah, the very inside of the back tires will rub pretty easily on the spring perch if you're not careful with your tire size, especially with a more square tire tread. looks like your current tires are pretty rounded on the inside... the fronts can fit whatever pretty easily.

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8 minutes ago, Brickwall said:

Yeah, the very inside of the back tires will rub pretty easily on the spring perch if you're not careful with your tire size, especially with a more square tire tread. looks like your current tires are pretty rounded on the inside... the fronts can fit whatever pretty easily.

very good point. I think I am going to pull the trigger on 235/65/17s. If they rub I guess I will have to get a set of spacers for the rear.

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Now you can see how the wheel spacers will give you the extra tire clearance at the perch. I want to say with the 2" spacers on mine it puts the edge of the tire somewhere right at the outside edge of the perch. I could have fit larger tires but went smaller and should probably go to smaller spacers like 1" to 1.5" to fix the edge of my tire hitting the top of the fender when bottoming out.

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3 minutes ago, hewitttech said:

Now you can see how the wheel spacers will give you the extra tire clearance at the perch. I want to say with the 2" spacers on mine it puts the edge of the tire somewhere right at the outside edge of the perch. I could have fit larger tires but went smaller and should probably go to smaller spacers like 1" to 1.5" to fix the edge of my tire hitting the top of the fender when bottoming out.

I am trying to avoid the wide track look honestly. I just want it to perform as well as it can in the snow and on the road and occasionally in the sand/dirt. Looking to order these today:

 

http://us.coopertire.com/tires/discoverer-at3-4s.aspx

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16 minutes ago, mnewxcv said:

I am trying to avoid the wide track look honestly. I just want it to perform as well as it can in the snow and on the road and occasionally in the sand/dirt. Looking to order these today:

 

http://us.coopertire.com/tires/discoverer-at3-4s.aspx

I hear you, I don't think the wide track would look right on the newer bodies. I did mine for sliding around corners on gravel and dirt so the wide stance really helps plant it. I always felt like the 300 was a little tipsy on the road with the factory setup but it did great in 6" of snow even with the highway tires, never had to deal with a lot of snow, let alone ice.

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20 minutes ago, hewitttech said:

I hear you, I don't think the wide track would look right on the newer bodies. I did mine for sliding around corners on gravel and dirt so the wide stance really helps plant it. I always felt like the 300 was a little tipsy on the road with the factory setup but it did great in 6" of snow even with the highway tires, never had to deal with a lot of snow, let alone ice.

wide track has its place on my other vehicle 😉

 

41203489_10156481904112988_6647926092155

 

but yeah think I will settle for the 235/65/17 for now and will evaluate clearances based on those for anyone else considering it without a lift. 

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tires arrived. They do not rub but look darn close just standing still (not just on spring perch but also on front and rear wheel well liners, one of which is held on with a bolt/screw, not what I want digging into my tires) so I am going to order a small spacer. 

20181030_142940.thumb.jpg.5b3c9bb71ff33bc15f5c75800f641447.jpg

 

before:

 

 

20181031_121305.thumb.jpg.fdf0f930c0bafb13eab552a2851afa60.jpg

 

after:

 

 

20181031_130141.thumb.jpg.4af3ec83b5a2837b6bd0eb0e3cdc5cdb.jpg

 

weight went from 50lb to 59lb for each corner.

 

20181031_121301.thumb.jpg.eaa2a077c2a3ad24920752691f1bbe80.jpg

20181031_130135.thumb.jpg.bd88e3fafb73338d088bc824cbfdd771.jpg

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Looks Good. Don't use more spacer than you have to otherwise your turn radius will suffer. Mine was bad before and is horrible now. Doesn't matter when you can slide the vehicle but on the rode it sucks when you need to turn.

 

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6 hours ago, hewitttech said:

Looks Good. Don't use more spacer than you have to otherwise your turn radius will suffer. Mine was bad before and is horrible now. Doesn't matter when you can slide the vehicle but on the rode it sucks when you need to turn.

 

well I've had a chance to put about 10 miles on it and so far no rubbing. Checking religiously but I think I might be able to get away with no spacers 🙂 

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Hi guys . Just joined . Got a 2004 Lexus rx300 just converted it to coilovers and lifted it 100mm more than stock . 

Wondering how big a tyre I could get as I’m due a full set soon. Been looking at big Goodrich all terrain for the look aswell as handling and grip . 

I got 18” wheel . I also got 20” which I also had fitted . 

36CB7D4B-7DD1-4954-A380-0E64BD1E5021.jpeg

B47C47F3-933D-4F8F-B197-C58154A6418E.jpeg

A17ECED6-003B-4237-93CE-E91146672859.jpeg

5337C511-D265-4DAF-A0B7-3AC0CA517F05.jpeg

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Well Done with the coil overs! Mind sharing which ones you used (brand, part numbers etc..) and what if anything else you needed to do it. We should start compiling all the info everyone has used for their setup so we can something known to work from for the different years but right now it is just what each individual has kind of figured out for themselves. Did the rear struts change from 03-04?

I am running the 245/70R-16 BF Goodrich KO2 on my 2000 rx300 with a ~2.5" spring lift and 2" wheel spacers with no rubbing.

You will probably need to go with a different tire or get different wheels if you want to use the KO(2) or your existing wheels.
TireRack.com only shows the K02 available for 15" and 16" wheels, the T/A KO for 17" and then the Rugged Trail T/A for 16,17 and 18.

The Rugged Trail definitely does not have the same aggressive look or side tread as the K02 or K0 if that is why we both like them but they would be much better on the road but you could probably use your 18" wheels with them. 
 

 

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