Rotated crank over twice (from what was thought TDC) clockwise w/o timing belt and lined up the marks. Now when i rotate the crank over with timing belt it locks up about 10 degrees clockwise.
Wondering should I line it back to TDC marks and move the cams around a revolution and see what happens.
Any help appreciated thanks !
I recently acquired a 1999 Lexus ES300 from a craigslist seller who had removed the TRAC OFF and Check Engine Light bulbs from the instrument panel. I found this out when I went to get my car smog checked and upon investigation, it was pretty obvious that the instrument panel had been tampered with.
When I took everything apart this past weekend I was able to clear three of the five codes that were present but the ones that came back were these knock sensor fails/malfunctions. I believe my problem is that I replaced the OEM sensors with $25 junk from amazon. When it comes to these knock sensors, I've learned that they are incredibly sensitive and if they are not detecting the exact frequencies that the ECU is searching for it will probably throw the CEL.
The problem with these codes is that they will put your vehicle into "limp" mode and disable OD. Since I'm already in too deep to just flip this vehicle out of my life, I've decided to bite the bullet and purchase the OEM sensors for $160+ ea. I'll post an update to the forum when I complete the installation this weekend.
Hopefully this will help someone having similar problems down the line.
First off, Hola mi amigos. I recently bought a 1992 Lexus LS 400 for cheap, did some maintenance and it runs decent enough now.
But here's the new problem... When it rains for a long period of time, my headliner gets soaked. It starts on the right side near the sun roof and progresses to soak the entire headliner. Thus fogging my windows up on the inside and slightly *BLEEP*es me off. I really need to fix this problem before I move onto anything else.
So far I've only cleaned out the drains in the sun roof and it still happens. But could it be a bad seal? Any help would be sweet or if I could get referenced to a solved topic. I really dont want to rip my headliner off but as a last resort I just might to find the problem.
I'm looking for answers to my mysterious knock sensor code on my 2001 LS430 180k miles. P0325 Knock sensor circuit 1 is the code I am recieving. Trying to do some preventative maintenance I changed the spark plugs with NGK laser iridium. Prior spark plugs I believe were the Densos. I as well changed a leaky PCV hose and went ahead and did the valve. The car ran great for roughly a week or so and then the code came and hasn't left. I seafoamed the car as well after getting the code. If I reset the code the car runs great, but returns shortly. I notice a slight tick and pinging under hard acceleration. Any suggestion would greatly be appreciated! I changed the spark plugs again also hoping maybe one of the NGK's was gapped incorrectly. I've went over the harnesses looking for shorts. It just seems strange I change the spark plugs and a knock sensor decides to give out.
Ok, so i pulled a dumb and challenged myself to build a car in 1 week, putting a Lexus 1uz onto a w58 into a Mk3 Supra,
but I hit a major roadblock... My engine won't run, it'll crank but nothing more. I've been trying to get my engine to run for the past three days, literally have been working on it for 10 hours each day at least, and have somehow gotten nowhere.
What I have -
-I have the 1UZFE VVTi engine (I believe it came out of a 99-00 Lexus SC400) just the motor, no transmission
-I have the ECU (that I believe is the original stock ECU)
-I have the stock wiring engine wiring loom which came pre-plugged in and all that
My engine again
Wiring loom and ECU
What I've done -
-Connected the EB2 (2) wire which is black with red stripe (I believe is ignition 1) directly to the positive to the battery
-Connected the EB2 (3) wire which is also black with red stripe but physically larger(I believe the starter power wire) directly to the positive on the battery
-Connected the IJ2 (11) wire which is black with orange stripe with silver dots directly to the positive on the battery
-Connected the IJ2 (11) wire which is yellow with black stripe directly to the positive on the battery
-Put in new SAE 5W-30 oil, there is an oil leak but it has enough oil to run
top left EB2(3), middle bottom EB2(2), top right EB1(4)
What I've tried -
-Used starter fluid spray directly in the air intake, did NOT work
-I plugged in a blade fuse in the power and ground wire(i think) of the transmission plug to try to trick it into thinking it was in park because maybe the ECU wouldn't let it run, did NOT work
-Bought and connected a MAF sensor (from a junkyard Toyota) and plugged it right in without an air intake, i was told it would run without one but got one anyways because i also heard it the ECU won't let it run without MAF input, did NOT work
-Looped (plug a wire in power running to ground) O2 sensors near transmission plug, tested with and without, did NOT work
-Cleaned spark plugs for healthy ground
-Tested power to ECU, it was receiving power (12.6 Volts approx)
-Probably a lot more but writing this from my crappy memory now
MAF sensor plugged into MY engine
Transmission plug with blade fuse
Final words -
- I believe the ECU is not sending signals to the spark plugs, therefore there's no combustion, I don't know why
- I have spent hours and hours and hours on lots of forums trying to figure this out myself, obviously couldn't solve the problem
- I may just be missing something important, honestly I don't know now
- I tried to be as descriptive as can be because I know that helps others diagnose the problem
- If you have a question just ask, and I'll answer it to the best of my capabilities or I will honestly tell you I don't know
- PLEASE TEXT OR CALL ME AT 512-720-1166 IF YOU THINK YOU CAN HELP, OR HAVE A SUGGESTION
More engine photos -