umarali

Diy: Passenger Seat Backflap Fix, Seat Fan Motor, Seat Motor Replaceme

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So the
back of the passenger seat was coming apart due to broken tabs inside. This
back piece comes as one part and cost atleast $150 online and even more from
dealership. Here is what it looks like and i decided to fix it instead of
replacing it.



22124076481_bfbae49bba_k.jpgIMG_3122
by umar ali, on Flickr



1. Move
the seat all the way back and place flathead screwdriver under piece and just
pull up it will pop off easily. Repeat same for other side. You will find one
bolt on each side. I believe 14mm size socket will work.



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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr



3. Now
reach under the seat on the floor and pull carpet piece aside. Unplug these 3
plugs from ECU, this is just a precautionary measure not to pop out any airbags
in the seat while working on it. They are easy to remove, just press on tabs
and pull out.



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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr



5. Lift
the seat from front and remove these 3 plugs from the bottom since the cable
limits the room for movement of seat.



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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr



This small
clip doesnt comes off easy so i just pulled down on cable since it is just tied
with tape to this clip and easily slide off. Then use nose pliers to take it
out



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by umar ali, on Flickr



6. Now
pull the seat all the way back and push it to dashboard.



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by umar ali, on Flickr



7. Now
from rear seat you can easily work on it. Pull these rubber elastic bands at
the bottom of seat holding flap. This will uncover 2 Phillips screws holding
the back plastic piece.



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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr



Remove the
cable for small LED on the bottom side of the flap. Just push down tab and pull
it out.



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by umar ali, on Flickr



These are
the 2 screws need to be removed holding the back plastic piece.



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by umar ali, on Flickr


Now just
pull the Back down and out. It is held on top by clip only.



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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr



Since
you got so far, this is the motor which controls the leaning back ofseat, if it
doesnt work this motor needs to be checked.



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by umar ali, on Flickr



This
motor controls the sliding of seat back and forth



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by umar ali, on Flickr



This
motor controls the seat to grow longer at knees.



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by umar ali, on Flickr



If
you want to service the seat fan underneath. Just turn filtercounterclockwise
and it comes off. Now remove 3 bolts holding it in place andwiggle off the
ducts but be careful not to rip the ducts. I almost ripped myduct which trying
to take it off.



Unless you live
in very dusty environment for longer period of time the fanstays pretty clean
and need no service.





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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr



8.
This is the back part which has 5 broken tabs which hold the flap. Theone with
arrow is the only one left all other broke off.



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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr



9. I
bough cotter pins of size 1/16" x 1/2" and #10 washers fromhome depot
for around $4 total.



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by umar ali, on Flickr



10.This
is the small drill i have which i used to drill holes where the tabsbroke off.



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by umar ali, on Flickr



11.
Then i put cotter pin from outside and put washer on the inside and bendcotter
pin and hammered down lightly



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by umar ali, on Flickr


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by umar ali, on Flickr



Only
this small part is visible on outer back side but all of them will becovered by
flap except one which is too small to notice.



22124073481_d83bc09e49_k.jpgIMG_3160
by umar ali, on Flickr



Now
just put everything backwards and you have a fixed backseat flap.



Note: it really
sucks that i had to write this DIY twice, i almost finishedfirst time and
closed tab by mistake then wrote it all over again.





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Can anyone help me how to embed pictures. This has been very frustrating for me to post pics

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It's outstanding to see some diy here...especially fixes that are bulletproof and don't require a colonoscopy at your Lexus dealer. :censored:

It's also great to see your work on MUD.

Steve

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Hi Emelio,

This is a super Tutorial!!! This will be an excellent addition to our data base.

.

Sorry about your do-over. At least now I know I'm not the only one who mess's up.

Paul

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It's outstanding to see some diy here...especially fixes that are bulletproof and don't require a colonoscopy at your Lexus dealer. :censored:

It's also great to see your work on MUD.

Steve

Ditto !

Paul

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Next tutorial i am planning on is for Spark Plugs followed by hopefully transmission and transfer case fluid exchanged.

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Next tutorial i am planning on is for Spark Plugs followed by hopefully transmission and transfer case fluid exchanged.

As a head's-up if you decide to do a drain / refill on the diff's...according to my parts guy and confirmed by a great indy shop here in Boise (LTS), the drain and fill washers on the rear diff and the fill washer on the front diff are identical. For some reason unknown to me though, Toyota uses a different washer on the front diff drain plug. That's altogether very different than on the 100 series LX as all 4 diff washers are identical.

Transfer case washers are separate animals, as they thread into aluminum instead of cast steel cases.

I should get the washers delivered (Toyota Parts Barn...26% or so off list) this coming Monday. I'll post at that time with pn's and visual difference.

Plugs are simple, but getting to them takes a bit of time. It helps to have a pretty complete selection of 3/8" extensions, u-joint and / or wobble extensions, as well as both u-joint and straight plug sockets.

Keep up the good work, and thanks again for posting both here and on Mud. :)

Steve

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Umarali, part number for diff and trans case sealing washers...

Front diff fill and rear diff fill and drain 12157-10010

Front diff drain 90430-24003

Transfer case fill and drain 90430-A0003

For some reason, there are no magnets on any of the plugs, so Tundra plugs with magnets (flush with the plug for drains, extended for fill) are, I think, reasonably priced upgrades.

You have 4 choices, depending on if you want a plug with a socket for a 10mm Allen wrench or a 24mm (actually, 15/16" works and fits just a little tighter) 1/2" drive socket...You can also get either variety with a long magnet or one that's flush with the end of the plug. The short ones are used for drain plugs and the TC fill plug, and the longer plugs are used for the diff's fill plugs.

10mm drive, long magnet 90341-18035

10mm drive, short magnet 90341-18021

24mm drive, long magnet 90341-18040

24mm drive, short magnet 90341-18057

I'll be draining the diffs and TX later this week when my driveway dries out from the rain.

I'm also taking a very long look at the Motive Power pneumatic filling tool for stuff like this...cheap for the time and mess it will save...wish I'd known about it years ago...

http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-1730-Fluid-Transfer/dp/B00I6BG1KI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1445294785&sr=1-1&keywords=motive+products+1730

hth

Steve

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