DaveN

Vgrs/vsc Trac/vsc Off Lights Are On. No Codes. What Do I Do?

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VGRS/VSC TRAC/VSC off lights are on. No codes. What do I do?

2006 LX 470. My wife was driving and all three lights came on. I attached code reader and there were no error codes. Tried sending clear codes command anyway.

Vehicle is acting strange. Remote door locks won't work, can't lock all doors with key, AC doesn't keep settings after engine is off. No problems starting the vehicle.

Does anyone know what would cause this? What do I need to do? I want to avoid dealer but I would feel better if I had a clue as to what is going on before having it looked at by mechanic. Is it safe to drive?

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Try unplugging both terminals of the battery, with the battery unplugged, put the key in the on position to drain left over charge, leave it that way for 5 - 10 min, them remove the key, plug the battery back in. And give it a start. You may need to re calibrate the steering if the RSCA comes on.

Another thing you may want yo check before doing all that is the differential lock button to make sure that's off, its located by the power antenna button by your right knee when sitting in the driver seat.

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If you browse the forum, I think most frequently the lights go up after refueling - and in most cases it's enough to tighten the fuel tank cap and clear the codes. I've never heard of no error codes while you have having the New Year tree illumination; also never heard (in this context) of issues with doors like you are experiencing.

Firstly, I'd check fuses (ref. your car manual).

Secondly, no error codes is really strange. I assume you are using some cheap error code reader -- you really need a dealer or alike equipment/software -- something mechanics use.

Thirdly, if still no codes, probably you have improperly isolated wires and this is causing the lights to illuminate and doors not to work properly...

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Took to auto zone. Their code reader pulled steering wheel calibration needed code.

With key off no power to clock, lights, headlights, etc. Key on side view mirrors have no power.

Now sounding more electrical and error lights are a side effect, not cause of problem. Thoughts? All fuses good.

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Hmm..... I heard of something which sounds like a similar issue only twice.

In one case a friend had a sun roof deflector on 2008 LX570 and in the winter/spring time the snow melted and the water dropped along the arch of the driver's door and got on wires inside which apparently had not been properly insulated (presumably, by the manufacturer). This caused issues like no reaction to door/window/music player buttons and, ultimately, all the juice from his battery was taken out somewhere and he got such a drained battery, he could not start. He recharged but this happened again and again. He then went to a garage mechanic and (as he said) as soon as he described his issues and as soon as the mechanic saw he had a roof deflector, he dismantled the driver's door arch panels and they saw corroded wires (apparently, that was a frequent LX570 to that mechanic). The mechanic cleaned and insulated them properly, took off the deflector and all went well since then.

In the other case a third party car alarm system was causing a somewhat similar issue. Do you have one (or an optional Lexus remote starter)?

I don't think it can really resolve the issue, but try replacing a battery in your key (if you have an electronic Push-to-Start key).

Otherwise, indeed, looks like something to do with wires insulation -- and the car may have no error codes in such case.

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Hmm..... I heard of something which sounds like a similar issue only twice.

In one case a friend had a sun roof deflector on 2008 LX570 and in the winter/spring time the snow melted and the water dropped along the arch of the driver's door and got on wires inside which apparently had not been properly insulated (presumably, by the manufacturer). This caused issues like no reaction to door/window/music player buttons and, ultimately, all the juice from his battery was taken out somewhere and he got such a drained battery, he could not start. He recharged but this happened again and again. He then went to a garage mechanic and (as he said) as soon as he described his issues and as soon as the mechanic saw he had a roof deflector, he dismantled the driver's door arch panels and they saw corroded wires somewhere at the bottom of the driver's door (apparently, that was a frequent LX570 issue to that mechanic). The mechanic cleaned and insulated them properly, took off the deflector and all went well since then.

In the other case a third party car alarm system was causing a somewhat similar issue. Do you have one (or an optional Lexus remote starter)?

I don't think it can really resolve the issue, but try replacing a battery in your key (if you have an electronic Push-to-Start key).

Otherwise, indeed, looks like something to do with wires insulation -- and the car may have no error codes in such case.

As to the calibrate the steering wheel code -- this is probably unrelated to your issue (I have similar codes every other time when I check my LX570 for error codes).

Update: updated text underlined.

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Try unplugging both terminals of the battery, with the battery unplugged, put the key in the on position to drain left over charge, leave it that way for 5 - 10 min, them remove the key, plug the battery back in. And give it a start. You may need to re calibrate the steering....

Do the above procedure and then recalibrate the steering wheel. Find a parking lot or dead end. You will want to drive I circles or 8's to calibrate the best way..

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I called dealer to make service appointment. Bad sign that when I described problems there were vast periods of silence on the other end of the phone as the advisor tried to think of causes. It sure sounds like a wire problem. Battery never drains but various things don't work. There is no juice to any system with key off. Idiot lights are the least of my problems.

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Had stealer diagnose. I was told that the passenger's mirror motor had a short that kept blowing one of 2 inline 20 amp fuses. They quoted $850 to repair by replacing mirror for $650 plus labor. When I checked parts price Lexus diagram shows that motor is available separately and online dealer sells for $146 delivered. When I asked local dealer why entire mirror was being replaced he stated that this is the part that the technician said is needed to complete the job. When I pointed out that the motor is a separate item there was silence on the phone.After being on hold while he was checking with the tech he came back and said that they could replace motor for $250 parts plus $100 labor but that they couldn't guarantee that changing the motor alone would resolve the problem. When I asked how a plastic and metal enclosure, the mirror housing, would affect a motor short he had no answer. Disgusted I told him that we would pick up the vehicle.


I called independent mechanic and he will replace motor for $40 unless he cracks mirror getting it apart. At least the dealer did not charge us the $106 diagnostic fee and we had a loaner while it was there. I also declined the $350 rear brake pad job instead buying oem pads and my guy will install saving me $$$.

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Did this fix your problem Dave? My new to me LX470 is doing this exact same thing... I'm hopeful you were able to get yours resolved.

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I'm having this same issue with my 2003 LX today. I recall using the remote to unlock the doors to get into the vehicle initially. It sat for roughly a week. It starts just fine however the mirror adjustments don't work, remote key-fob no longer works, and power locks do not work when vehicle is not turned on. Has anybody ever figured out the solution to this problem?

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Davis,

You probably have a blown fuse in your passenger side fuse box.  Go to the passenger side, open the fusebox under the dash, there will be a 10 amp fuse that is blown in there.  I don't remember the exact location of it in that box, but its in the passenger box for sure.  The fuse is for the power windows, you most likely have a ground issue with one of your sideview mirrors that is causing your fuse to blow.  Once this fuse blows, it throws the entire car haywire.  It sounds crazy, but that is what was happening with mine, exactly like yours.  It will continue to blow unless you fix your sideview mirror.  I chose to just de-activate the auto adjustment when the car goes into reverse and I manually adjust my mirrors when needed.  Hope this helps.

Jake

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When the VSC TRAC lights come on, but no physical driving effects are apparent, then the source is likely electronic. I had an incident where the TRAC started doing its thing of alternately braking etc. while driving straight on dry pavement. Dealer found it was the yaw rate sensor. It has run fine after replacing the sensor. Most DIY readers are good for the simple things, but the dealer diagnostics will do much better at identifying the myriad of sensors on modern vehicles. Some dealers now offer to check the "check engine" light for no charge.

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Davis

When my mirrors quit doing the auto down on reverse while under warranty, the dealer would replace the rear view mirror as a unit, and it would work. There was an improvement made to the main controller at one time, but now it seems the exterior mirror end controller will go bad, primarily the auto mode. Even when my mirror would not auto down, I was able to control it from the main switch manually. When the manual adjustment quits working, I will get a new mirror unit.

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On 9/20/2016 at 7:28 AM, Scargreen said:

Davis,

You probably have a blown fuse in your passenger side fuse box.  Go to the passenger side, open the fusebox under the dash, there will be a 10 amp fuse that is blown in there.  I don't remember the exact location of it in that box, but its in the passenger box for sure.  The fuse is for the power windows, you most likely have a ground issue with one of your sideview mirrors that is causing your fuse to blow.  Once this fuse blows, it throws the entire car haywire.  It sounds crazy, but that is what was happening with mine, exactly like yours.  It will continue to blow unless you fix your sideview mirror.  I chose to just de-activate the auto adjustment when the car goes into reverse and I manually adjust my mirrors when needed.  Hope this helps.

Jake

I had this same issue (VGRS light on and the VSC TRAC and VSC OFF lights).  Blown 10 amp fuse on passenger side fuse box, top row furthest left fuse.  As soon as I replaced it the lights went off.  VGRS blinked for a bit then went off.  Side mirror actuators have been misbehaving and I think the fuse blew at a time when I had the right one in auto dip mode.    I turned that off so seems fine now.  

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Hello everyone,

 

Long time; hope all is well with you and yours.

 

Kindly review the photo attached.

 

When I started my truck today, the error lights lit.

 

The instrument cluster gauges also shuttered / twitched a bit, then went steady; never saw this before!

 

Furthermore, the passenger side view mirror wouldn’t dip down in reverse.

 

AND… upon coming to a stop, shutting down and looking truck from the outside, all doors wouldn’t lock! I had to lock each door individually (note, however, that the power door lock button works if the truck is turned on!).

 

Been raining a lot; hopefully not related to the problem? :(

 

Can someone please help me figure this out.

 

Thank you very much.

 

My best.

1.jpg

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What a pain it was to access the passenger side foot well fuse box!

 

Was also difficult to pull the fuse as well. Argh.

 

Nevertheless, the fuse was blown.

 

I replaced the blown fuse, truck started up properly, but shortly after starting…

 

Lights on cluster resurface, mirrors stopped while dipping, auto door locks stopped working.

                                                                                                                   

Can someone please advise how I can figure out what the culprit is that’s blowing the fuse?

 

How am I to trace this back to the source of the problem?

 

Any / all help would be greatly appreciated.

 

My best.

123.jpg

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I replaced the fuse again and made sure the mirror switch was in the center / neutral position.

 

The instrument cluster lights cleared and the door locks work again now.

 

Since these items work after stopping the mirrors from dipping automatically, I think I’ve narrowed it down to the mirror dip as the cause of the fuse blowing.

 

Can someone please assist from here; what should I do next?

 

If the mirror motor is the problem, how can I replace same myself? Any good instructions / videos to do so?

 

Thank you again.

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Not sure if it matters but there was a known TSB issue with the mirror relay inside the mirror assembly That would prevent the mirror from returning to the home position after tilting down

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On ‎4‎/‎28‎/‎2020 at 2:18 PM, BlueVaporMist said:

Not sure if it matters but there was a known TSB issue with the mirror relay inside the mirror assembly That would prevent the mirror from returning to the home position after tilting down

Thank you for the heads up on the TSB. I've seen it, but it's not what I was having difficulty with. Thank you though!

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Just wanted to check in on this. Should anyone be able to assist please do advise. Thank you so very much. My best.

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Hello again everyone,

 

Hope all is well.

 

So I replaced the passenger side-view mirror motor, but the problem remains!

 

The top row, most forward (to the front of the truck) red fuse “10” blows.

 

After I replace the motor, I kept the switch in the center / neutral position and did not try to have the mirrors auto-dip while in reverse, but when I went to electrically adjust the front driver’s side-view mirror, the fuse blew and the slew of dashboard warning lights lit.

 

I thought the problem was emanating from the front passenger mirror, as its auto-dip functionality was not working smoothly in recent time, as it’d skip / hop, shutter on its way down.

 

Nevertheless, I guess this has been narrowed down to the mirror(s) being the problem.

 

What am I to do at this time? Can someone please assist and tell me if this means I should replace the driver’s side-view mirror motor now, or can is be something else altogether?

 

I’d rather not buy the driver’s side-view mirror, only for the problem to remain. Argh. :(

 

Please advise at your earliest.

 

Thank you very much.

 

My best.

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