gshawns Posted April 3, 2004 Posted April 3, 2004 Hello. Let me first say that I have found a lot of helpful information on this site. Anyway, I have a 96 ES 300 and am curious about waxing the bumper. Is it ok to wax the part that goes around the bottom of the car and the bumper? If so, should I use a different wax or can I use the same that goes on the rest of the car? After reading some of the posts, I am going to use Collinite next time I wax, just wanted to make sure it is ok to put this on the bumper area too. Thanks for the advice.
VBdenny Posted April 4, 2004 Posted April 4, 2004 Yes you can wax the bumper. They need extra as the paint on the plastic never lasts as well as the paint on metal. Before using the collinite, I suggest that you completely clean it with Maquires #1 Paint Cleaner first. I just finished detailing a 2004 Toyota Seinna (I detail on the side/$150-$250) and I even cleaned the paint on that prior to putting on the Collinite. I use the #845 Insulator wax and nobody will ever talk me into using anything else. It is like encasing your car in a shell. Just be very sure to have your paint prepared perfectly as the stuff seals in everything you miss. Having the paint perfectly prepared is extremely important. By the way, I spend 10 hours on the Toyota, but it is perfect now. Denny
SW03ES Posted April 4, 2004 Posted April 4, 2004 vb- Its a great way to make some extra money isn't it? My goal this summer is to do one car for profit a week, that'll pay for my gas all summer, which is nice with the gas prices doing what they're doing. Anyways yes you can wax anything on the car that is shiny. Headlights, glass, paint, plastic, as long as its shiny. The bumpers on the ES are just paint like everywhere else, just a different color. Which Collinite are you going to use, the Insulator Wax or the 476s? If its the 476 there are some special application instructions you should adhere to. Hey vb, you coming to the NJ run later in April right? Wait until you see what I've started using on my car, I think you'll really like it :D Mums the word until then.
gshawns Posted April 4, 2004 Author Posted April 4, 2004 I already ordered the 476s wax...I hope that was a good choice. Are the application instructions included with the wax? If not, would you mind giving me a few pointers? I am also going to put it on my windows (I didn't know you could do that). One more question...is it ok to put this on the rims too or should I use a different product for that? Thanks for the info!!!
SW03ES Posted April 4, 2004 Posted April 4, 2004 Yep, just don't follow the instructions on the can. Apply it with a foam applicator pad and then wipe it immediately off, don't let it dry. If you let it dry it will be very difficult to remove. So just go panel by panel, apply, remove, move on. And yep, the wheels are clearcoated just like the paint, slap the 476 on!
VBdenny Posted April 4, 2004 Posted April 4, 2004 Hey SWO, Yeah, I like picking up a few extra bucks on the side, especially when it is under the table. I decided after doing this new Sienna, to charge an average of $250 a vehicle. Cars a little less SUV's a little more. Most of the people I deal with really like nice looking, perfect vehicles but don't have the time (or inclination) to do them. I slide in there and when they get their car back it is perfect. I spent 10 hours doing the Sienna including glass, tires and wheels, door jambs and engine. The guy flipped when he saw it. Answering gshawns question, I used #845 Insulator Wax. I haven't tried the #476s but I never cared much for paste wax. I guess I have always thought liquids are easier. I'd have to guess that there isn't a whole lot of difference. You will be happy because it works so perfectly and lasts forever. I did my mothers car in Syracuse NY last summer and when my brother washed it after her driving it in records snow (it's snowing there right now by the way) he said the hose just about cleaned it up. I figure that if they bother to apply the stuff to high voltage power lines, they must expect it to last. What could be better than cleaning cars and getting paid for it? I have my CATV, stereo, and refrigerator right there. Sorry SWO, I woun't be able to make the April meet, must to my dismay. I am signed up for my Richard Petty driving experience at the Lowe's Motor Speedway in Charollte that day. Well, at least I'll be driving and having fun. I really wanted to attend and since yall are meeting about 10 miles from our crib there, it would have been easy. Next time, amybe summer since I am off then. Denny
SW03ES Posted April 4, 2004 Posted April 4, 2004 Thats right! I remember you telling me about that. Oh well, next time.
99lsguy Posted April 5, 2004 Posted April 5, 2004 Yes you can wax the bumper. They need extra as the paint on the plastic never lasts as well as the paint on metal.Before using the collinite, I suggest that you completely clean it with Maquires #1 Paint Cleaner first. I just finished detailing a 2004 Toyota Seinna (I detail on the side/$150-$250) and I even cleaned the paint on that prior to putting on the Collinite. I use the #845 Insulator wax and nobody will ever talk me into using anything else. It is like encasing your car in a shell. Just be very sure to have your paint prepared perfectly as the stuff seals in everything you miss. Having the paint perfectly prepared is extremely important. By the way, I spend 10 hours on the Toyota, but it is perfect now. Denny Hey Denny, Can I use the #1 paint cleaner to cut through my collinite that I applied in December....? Do I need to "clay bar" first? I'm planning on a big "clean" after tax day and am looking forward to a fresh coat of collinite for the summer :D 99
SW03ES Posted April 7, 2004 Posted April 7, 2004 Oh yeah, any paint cleaner will remove the Collinite. Clay bars actually don't remove wax, at least not all of it usually. The solvents and the mechanical abrasives in the paint cleaner will make short work of it though. I'd still clay first ;)
99lsguy Posted April 7, 2004 Posted April 7, 2004 Oh yeah, any paint cleaner will remove the Collinite.Clay bars actually don't remove wax, at least not all of it usually. The solvents and the mechanical abrasives in the paint cleaner will make short work of it though. I'd still clay first ;) Got it!! Thanks SWO :D 99
douglasmiami Posted May 7, 2004 Posted May 7, 2004 Regarding the bumper and waxing, my RX 300 was in an accident prior to my purchase. I don't know the details, but I have noticed that the paint on the front bumper has begun, in two spots, to peel. What can I do about this? Can I seal it with anything and then wax over? I'm trying to avoid the paint peeling any further. Thanks.
silvermate Posted May 7, 2004 Posted May 7, 2004 i had that same problem on my front bumper, once it starts to chip there is nothing you can really do but have it sanded and repainted touch up paint and clear coat will buy you some time, and make it look better, but after a little time it will just chip again and chip worse and bigger.... its kinda like a spreading disease after trying many things i just settled on spot sanding the general area, (especially the location of the paint chip) really well, primered and repainted the area to match. so far so good, that was over a year ago, no more chipping if you don't think you can do all of that or are nervous about doing that to you lex, you ought to take it in to a shop and they will do it for you. probably couple hundred bucks though
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