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Lock Actuator Motor For My 2002 Lexus Ls430


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I have read several posts, and have seen the tutorial, about replacing just the motor for the lock actuator on my 2002 LS430. I am having a mechanic do the work, but I am providing the part. It says to buy the motor on EBAY, but I just don't know which one to buy. Could anyone help me with this information. My doors don't have the automatic close feature.

Thank you

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have the same issue with the easy-close doors. The Toyota part is available on Amazon for about $500, which includes the entire assembly (part # 69110-50030). The non easy-close version is about $200 (part # 69040-50181). These parts replace the entire mechanism when only the motor itself is faulty.

I have two questions:

1) does anyone know where we can buy the actuator motor itself----other than tearing one out of a junked car?

2) Is the actuator motor the same in both the easy-close door and the regular door assemblies above. If so, I can buy the less expensive assembly and transfer the motor to my existing easy-close assembly.

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I've had this issue for a couple years in my LS430 and haven't gotten around to addressing it. Toyota only sells the entire assembly; which is ~$200 for the standard door and ~$600 for the easy closer. I have the easy closer so I'm not that excited to spend $600 to replace a $10 motor.

I believe this may be the motor:


It's the Mabuchi motor that most people use but the difficulty seems to be getting the actual shaft to match up; the one we need has to have a D shaped shaft. The thing that actually dies is the brushes in the motor; so if it doesn't fit you can always take the dead motor apart and use the shaft in the new housing, or transfer the brushes or whatever.

The easy close actuator has 2 motors; the lock motor and the one that runs the easy closer. I believe from what I've seen on the net that the locking motor is the same; but you'll have to open it up to confirm.

I've heard from other posters that they open up the door actuator and the motor is fine but the contacts are dirty; and also sometimes opening up the actuator you'll find other bits (electrical contacts, etc fried). So I'd have the motor on hand but YMMV.

There are a couple other posts on the topic including how to take apart the door and what the actuator looks like; so do some searching before you tear apart the car.

Let us know how it goes.


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Today, I replaced the complete units in both driver side doors, on my 2004 LS430 facelift model, although I believe the replacements were out of a 2001. The front door lock actuator motor wasn't working, and that stuffs up the alarm system, central locking on all doors, remote control etc. However, the soft closer was working. The rear door soft closer wasn't working, although the central locking worked. So I bought both complete systems, second hand, from what we call a wrecker, or car dismantler. Total cost $150 NZ, which I thought was pretty good. Approx $120 US. All is working great now.

Can someone tell me if the front brake pads are the same on 1999 LS400 and 2004 LS430? I was thinking of swapping them between cars, if they are the same. Both have 4 piston calipers, but I haven't yet compared the pads. Cheers, Keith.

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  • 4 months later...

I have been reading links about the lock actuators. Is the Mabuchi motor/actuator what Lexus uses? Any advice appreciated.

Best, Skip

Yep. These are the ones I bought... seems like the are back on ebay:


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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok I finally had the time (and the guts) to attempt this today.

I started with this tutorial here:

And there is a very long CL thread here:

Took about 3 hours start to finish. After 3+ years I can lock and unlock the driver's door with the remote! I swear the car was smiling at me when I walked away.

I have the easy closer; buried in that thread is another post that nicely details the differences you'll see: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls430/520505-ls-430-door-lock-actuator-tutorial-10.html#post8294820

The good news is that the motor I bought (see above) is an exact drop in replacement for the OEM motor. The easy close and standard ones are identical. The little white plastic shaft slides on and off without any need for a gear puller. It may have a little more torque than the standard motor; but also people who say this may be comparing worn out motors with brand new ones. Whatever it works.

Read the CL thread above; it covers almost everything. A couple tips from my go at it:

  • I have the easy closer so the actuator is ENORMOUS. Someone called it the lobster; some pix: It's hard to get in and out so be patient. Also if you have someone to help you hold it as you take all the screws off that is also helpful (I did not).
  • +1 on using razorblade to cut the vapor barrier seal. That stuff is sticky; it's also the stuff that holds the two halves of the housing together.
  • Easycloser housing is screwed together so no twist ties needed.
  • You will have to mostly take the lobster apart to get to all the screws for the lower housing; where the motor is. Make sure you put it back together and that all the mechanical elements work properly.
  • +1 on disconnecting the battery. At least it won't die.
  • I pulled out all the connectors from the door so I could set it aside (instead of just standing it up). It made getting the larger actuator out easier. Took all of 10 seconds.
  • Just cut the electrical tape that holds the long wire (from actuator to door cpu) to all the clips. Easier than trying to remove them; and you can just tape it back easily.
  • Remember the window rail has to be between the door actuator and the outer metal wall. Once I realized this getting the actuator back in was easier. You can unscrew both bolts; the plastic trough is coming down from above (where the window is) so the rail isn't going anywhere.
  • +1 on using a flashlight to see how to connect the handle and the clip to the actuator. It's hard to describe but obvious once you see it.
  • When you put the door panel back on don't forget to seat the cable ends and also seat the little clips that hold the plastic jacket in the lock assembly. I didn't do this and the door cables were rattling around when I opened the door; I had to remove the doorskin again to pop them back in. If I had done it right the first time I could have done it in under 3 hours.

All in all I'd rate this a medium level of effort; but still for $16 of motors and 3 hours of my time was less than the $1000 my mechanic wanted to do this repair (parts and labor). If I had to do all 4 doors at once I bet would have been able to do it a lot faster on subsequent tries.

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