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Uneven Rear Brake Wear Left Side To Right Side Of 2007 Es350


armcomdes
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After only 17,000 miles (72,000 to 89,000) with a brake job from Lexus, the left rear pads are down to the wear sensors, while the right rear pads show almost 70% left. Any ideas why one side is wearing out so fast?

The car was a 2 yr. old Certified bought with 38,000 miles on it. It has always been serviced at the same dealership.

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armcomdes,

Any time I've ever seen uneven brake shoe wear, front or rear, its always been the result of the pads or slide pins sticking on that caliper, due to improper lubrication or corrosion of those parts, preventing their ability to move when the brakes are applied.

Failing to flush the brake fluid every 48 months as indicated in the owner's manual, may have caused corrosion in the one caliper that prevents it from relaxing after the brakes have been applied. Improper brake pad wear will be the result.

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armcomdes,

Any time I've ever seen uneven brake shoe wear, front or rear, its always been the result of the pads or slide pins sticking on that caliper, due to improper lubrication or corrosion of those parts, preventing their ability to move when the brakes are applied.

Failing to flush the brake fluid every 48 months as indicated in the owner's manual, may have caused corrosion in the one caliper that prevents it from relaxing after the brakes have been applied. Improper brake pad wear will be the result.

+1 This ^^^^^^^

I always use a liberal amount of permatex synthetic brake lube on the pins. Never a problem. But just did the brakes on my kids Rav4 and the rear pins were dry as a bone. Same issue.

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As a side note to this thread. Your dealer may have lubricated the pins on the rear calipers at your last brake reline. But the road salt in NJ will attack all of those parts very aggressively. Here in NE Ohio we get tons of salt every Winter and it ruins every brake component in 1/2 the normal time.

My 2011 Es came from NW Ohio (certified used) where they get 1/3 the snowfall and therefore 1/3 the salt. The amount of corrosion on the underside of the car is almost zero in comparison.

So you should spec a complete brake job with new lubricant and brake fluid bleed and flush at every reline. I get 200k out of calipers and rotors if I do this even in the harsh severe service environment that I drive in.

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As a side note to this thread. Your dealer may have lubricated the pins on the rear calipers at your last brake reline. But the road salt in NJ will attack all of those parts very aggressively. Here in NE Ohio we get tons of salt every Winter and it ruins every brake component in 1/2 the normal time.

My 2011 Es came from NW Ohio (certified used) where they get 1/3 the snowfall and therefore 1/3 the salt. The amount of corrosion on the underside of the car is almost zero in comparison.

So you should spec a complete brake job with new lubricant and brake fluid bleed and flush at every reline. I get 200k out of calipers and rotors if I do this even in the harsh severe service environment that I drive in.

Great point!

I recently heard a bit on talk radio about how using a Car Wash to clean the car is almost preferable to hand wash because the undercarriage gets washed/rinsed as well. I can't remember the exact statistics, but the report mentioned that cars that have the undercarriage washed regularly, fair exponentionally better than those that didn't in the corrosion/rust department.

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