Trac Light Comes On From 5 Minutes To 30 Minutes

[daffy]

Hi,

So, I just finished bleeding the brakes, accumulator and trac control, again, to make sure I did everything in order and to the book. The trac light still comes on (code 19) yet before that happens, the trac lock system worked perfectly. I have tried it a few times, and you can hear the brakes working, the engine cuts back on the throttle, and the trac light flashes in the dash. I used a vacuum bleeder, maybe that's not good enough? Maybe I should be using a pressure bleeder? I cannot see the accumulator failing so quick over bleeding the brakes. Any ideas? Thanks, Daffy

[landar]

Have you tried clearing the stored codes? And code 19 still comes back?

[daffy]

Hi Landar,

Yes, I have cleared the code and it the trac light comes back on. The only thing I did different was to use synthetic brake fluid.

Originally I just bled the brakes, not the accumulator or trac control. So it worked for a day or so, then the trac light came on. So I bled everything after that (didn't work).

If the accumulator is shot, wouldn't the trac light stay on all the time? I can shut the car off, restart and the trac light goes out and traction lock works for a short period of time (5 to 30 minutes).

Code 19 says trac motor is cycling too often or there is a leak in the brake system. I don't think there is a leak, as the fluid is staying up. Pedal still feels a bit mushy though, after vacuum bleeding. I have driven the car around, seems fine, brake wise. ABS works.

I am thinking of going back to ordinary Dot3 brake fluid and see what happens unless someone has any other ideas. Daffy

[landar]

Well, Daffy, I fear you have let air get into the ABS or Accumulator and are not able to purge it via "traditional" methods. To get air out of the ABS modulator, you have to cycle the unit while bleeding. Most people just take it to the dealer where they have the proper equipment to bleed the system and I have heard some say that they find a slippery road (like gravel or snow) and just lock up the brakes to activate the ABS system. A few times of that supposedly clears the air but I have never done it. I just very carefully make sure that I never let air into the master cylinder side.

I do not think synthetic fluid is to blame (DOT 5 ?). But you need to get the air out of the system and you might want to check with the dealer (Toyota or Lexus) to see if they can just purge the system and how much it might cost. Heck, even a good brake shop should be able to do it for a nominal fee.

I also would not use the vacuum pump to bleed anymore but the more traditional "press the pedal while opening the bleeder valve" approach with a helper -> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/bleeding.html

[daffy]

Hi Landar,

I have been thinking about this and I think you are right. I still have a little bit of air in the system. I still think I don't have to take it to a dealer. I will try one more time to bleed the brakes, the good old way, with two people. That should force any air that is in the system out. My ABS seems to be working good. No codes there.

I have DOT3 in my car, that is what is recommended.

Thanks for your input. I will try this weekend to bleed the brakes and I will post my results. Daffy

[steve2006]

This fault is normally due to the Accumulator having lost pressure due to worn internal seals,the pump attempts to correct this but then gives a code 19 when it has exceeded its normal duty cycle.

You can get the units rebuilt here in the UK but unsure about the USA.

[daffy]

Hi Steve2006,

Thanks for your reply. I just can't see the accumulator failing so fast, just because I changed out one rear caliper. I think the way I bled the brakes with a vacuum pump, probably caused a little air in the lines somewhere that's stubborn to get out. I will bleed the brakes this time by pumping the pedal and force the air out that way. If this doesn't work, I have a second Lexus here for parts, that I can rob the accumulator from, (with 600,000 kilometers on it though) to solve my problem. The car I am driving has only 250,000 kilometers.

Code 19 also says there could be leakage in the lines, and a little tiny bit of air in the lines can give the same indication. So it will be easier to bleed the lines the proper way to see if this corrects the problem, otherwise you are 100% correct, that it is the accumulator. Thanks for your input, Daffy

[daffy]

Hi,

Ok, I have bled the brakes with two people system and that made no difference. So I guess the accumulator is shot. This spring I will take the one off my old car and install on this car and hope this works. Daffy

[steve2006]

I had exactly the same problem on mine and followed the same proceedure regarding bleeding the brakes,trac and ABS units.

I managed to get an accumulator out of a breaker fitted it and all has been well for over 3 years.

[daffy]

Hi Steve2006,

Is there any tricks or tips I need to know, to switch over the accumulator from my old car? I think I will switch the whole unit from the old car, because I know it was all working good when I parked it. Is it a big job?

I just find it hard to believe that the accumulator just quit at the same time I changed out one rear brake caliper. I wonder if the accumulator is still going to be good if I take it out of the old car and install it into this car. Thanks, Daffy

[steve2006]

IIRC you need to remove the brake circuit connection and a banjo joint, undo the mounting bracket and unclip the wiring connector.

Once you have replaced it bleed the unit.

[daffy]

Hi Steve2006,

Sounds like it's not too hard. If we get some warm weather, I might try to take it out of the old car. Thanks, Daffy

[daffy]

Hi everyone,

It got real warm here, +1 degrees Celsius, so I decided to take the accumulator out of the old car. I installed this accumulator today, and yes, it works! This is a great site, it has helped me before and will help me again, Thanks for all your input. Happy holidays! Daffy

[daffy]

Hi,

Nope, that did not work! The trac light came back on. I think something else is going on. I have noticed when I lightly step on the brake pedal, the steering wheel has a tendency to turn to the left, ever so slightly. So I thought, maybe I have a front caliper starting to seize up on the left front corner. Since I have my old car still, I took out the left front caliper and replaced it on the car I am driving now. It is still doing the exact same thing. So it is the back left calliper that that may be seizing. So I am thinking, maybe this is what is causing the track light to come on? It maybe giving the same signal as a leak in the system, which is part of code 19, a leak in the system somewhere. When the weather warms up again, I will get the the back caliper from the old car and replace the faulty caliper. I can't believe I would have two bad calipers at almost the same time go bad. Daffy

[landar]

You got me to wondering if the trunk wiring on your car has ever been examined for defect? Your '91 is a prime candidate for weird anomalies caused by this wiring. It may not be the cause but would not hurt to take a look.

[daffy]

Hi Landar,

Thanks for your input, and yes I have heard of this. I hope that isn't happening to me.

I don't know what's going on, but I just took a 2 hour highway trip with my car and the "traction lock" light did not come on! The traction lock seems to be working like it should. My fingers are crossed! Daffy

[daffy]

Hi all,

Just want to let you know that the traction control has been working great! Thanks for your input. Daffy

[daffy]

Hi

My trac lock light is back on. So the second accumulator is no good now. Same code #19. Must be the age thing. So now I wonder if anyone knows someone that can rebuild these accumulators? I don't really want to buy a used one and have it go in a short period of time knowing these accumulators only last so long. There is someone in the UK doing it. They replace the O ring and recharge the accumulator. I don't want to send it that far away.Thanks Daffy

[Daniel091]

Hi daffy. I'm having a similar issue. Just the track light is on. One thing I've noticed is after i wash the road grime off the light goes away. As soon as some of this snow melts I gonna check the harness to the abs sensors. Maybe I'll get lucky and its just a damaged wire.

[daffy]

Hi Daniel091

I think you are probably right. I have had loose connections before. I sometimes use electrical spray cleaner and reconnect the connectors and that seems to help. Daffy.

[daffy]

So nobody in Canada or US repairs these accumulators? I have an extra one here, I might take it apart and install new seals and get it recharged. I need to know the proper pressure. 3000psi? Daffy

[Daniel091]

Is there a tutorial on rebuilding these accumulator 's?

[daffy]

Hi Daniel091

Doesn't look like there is any way to fix the trac lok accumulator. I have the manuals and all it says, when the accumulator is the problem, and bleeding doesn't solve the issue, then take accumulator out, and bleed off the pressure, then discard. Replace with new.

I think there is an O-ring inside that needs to be replaced, and re-pressurized to 3000 psi?

I also know someone in the UK does this for a fraction of the cost of a new one. So how come no one does it here? Daffy

[sha4000]

Probably because most ppl and shops just change parts but if it is fixable I would like to know for future posters.

[daffy]

Hi, everyone,

I just had to have my traction control working for upcoming winter, so I took it to a dealer. They gave me Lexus Rx350 SUV, while they worked on my car. I had the loaner for almost two weeks, as the dealer finally found the problem. It was the flexible high pressure hose that was weeping and possibly expanding (from age) just enough to trigger the traction light on my dash. I was pleasantly surprised that they only charged me $450. The high pressure hose was $98 alone. The traction light has not come on for two months now, so I am very happy! For the diy people, check this hose first! Daffy