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Just Got A 94 Sc400 ^_^


MightyMouse
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Hi guys,

I am relatively new to this forum but I did some research on the SC400 here before coming to the conclusion on purchasing it. It's a 1994 SC400 with 97k clicks on it. Pretty low mileage it seems to me for a 10-11yr car. Anyways, I wanted to say thanks for all those people who posted on the forum because it helped me answer a lot of the questions I had on the lesser known sport coupes.

To those kind enough, could you please tell me what are the parts/areas I have to be looking out for with this particular car at close to 100k. What parts/areas usually go out fast for this car. And as a first time lexus owner and especially a more exotic SC series, what should I be lokoing out for? Also, any perks will help me enjoy my daily driving are great too.

Another question (sorry for throwing so many at once), I know that i get a lot more power for having the power switch on...but does it waste alot of gas? Is it really necessary to have it on to feel the power? :blink:

Looking foward to become an active member of this board. Thanks.

MightyMouse B)

1994 SC400

White as Snow~ Loving it...today was first day. :cheers:

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Complete fluid change is in order. Flush out transmission, radiator, brake, power steering (your model may leak at this point), differential. Changing fluid will give a new lease on car’s life, and host of other touchups to get it going in the right direction. Power switch just delays the shifting so you may get an illusion of being faster/stronger. Get good quality leather cleaner for your leather. Than you may look in to more expansive stuff like t-belt, tuneup etc.

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Thanks for your advices, I will look into changing the fluids when I get a chance. The t-belt was changed at 88k miles so I'm good on that part.

Quick question...how much is it going to run me for all those fluid changes?

And since all the power thingie does is make it shift later at a higher rpm, I think I'll stick to leaving it off cause gas is costing me a fortune after the recent raise in price.

:chairshot:

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gas prices are crazy, about $2.50 for premium in SFbay. in the LS forum, they seem to think that the power ECT saves gas, if i am correct. but jzz, if your tranny shifts later, doesnt that mean a higher stall speed? and doesnt that translate to performance difference?

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$2.50 for gas is too much!!! We pay 1.80+ here in Washington area and that is high enough. I guess the new Lexus Hybrid will be a hit in Cali with that kind of gas price.

I went to dealer to do my transmission flush because our 400 require type T that is not available in mom and pop shops. Transmission flush cost almost $200. I did the others fluid changes at home over the years.

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Good Evening,

If you visit your local Toyota dealer:

- Coolant is ~$12.99/gallon. Coolant change is ~$45. Can be done at home, but recommend reading the instructions very carefully.

- Type T Trans fluid is more expensive (like ~$30 a gallon), but needs changed less (60K mi or so). The screen can be cleaned, because it is a screen, not a filter. Your tech will tell you. Drain and refill can be done at home, just like an oil change. Word of caution: Do not substitute transmission fluids.

- The hydraulic fan system uses Dextron ATF. You can do it at home with basic tools and 2 qts of ATF (some to spare).

- Power steering is a weak point in these vehicles; a leaking unit can damage your alternator. A friend of mine learned this $300+ lesson the hard way. Check it for leaks, it can be rebuilt with a kit.

- Differential is fairly easy; can be done at home with 80W90 or similar.

- Flushing the brakes isn't hard or expensive, but can take some time.

I've read on this forum that changing the water pump and check the idler bearings with the timing belt works, because the pump won't last until the second timing belt at 180K miles. We just replaced our water pump at 143K, and did the tune up, timing belt, front seal, and several other minor gasgets while we were in there. Good news: We found one of the idlers was going, and caught it early. :o

Now it's time to rebuild the fan pump, :censored: Fortunatly, less than $20.

Good Luck

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Thanks guys for all the info~ it was greatly helpful. I've come to the conclusion that although I can do most of the changes on the fluids myself, it is best to take it to the dealer and have them change it and give the car an overall check. I'll probably do a full service/tune-up there. I figured that since it is a used car and I had just acquired it, I shouldn't be stingy and should play it safe. After this one I'll start changing the things myself to save more money.

It is pouring rain here in California today, but nonetheless I took this baby out and had some fun. I felt like a kid with a new toy. Amazing... :D

MightyMouse

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if it were raining here i would feel like a kid (while going sideways :lol: )

blacksc4: shifting later doesnt always mean moare performance it just means that the motor is more in the power band and will be punchier. the power mode also makes the tranny downshift more easily. I dont really know anything about stall speed so well i cant say anything about that. i wish the power mode made the trans shift like a BMW in sport mode, it holds all of the gears around 3-4k rpm keeping it in a nice powerband of power, its almost like driving a manual but no extra work.

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are the idlers you refer to the ones that are part of the serpentine belt circuit?

or are they associated with the timing belt?

since you found a bad one while changing the water pump I assume this was associated with the serpentine belt. If so, how do you check them?

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Good Evening,

The timing belt drives the water pump.

There are two idlers, one guides the belt, the other adjusts the tension.

The large guide one, on the driver's side, down near the crank was bad. When you spun it by hand, you could hear the bearing rattle. None of the others did, and neither did the replacement.

Serpentine belt has idlers, but it also runs the alternator, PS, AC, and fan pump. I have a knocking noise from the fan pump at idle that quiets as the engine warms. There are two thrust washers that allow the impeller to move back and forth, causing the knock.

If you need more info, let me know.

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I would drain and refill. If you want to really clean out your tranny you could drain and refill 2, 3, or 4 weekends in a row. That way you have really changed out all of the old fluid. When you do a drain and refill you are only getting out part of the fluid that the tranny and torque converter contains. It's not very hard or expensive and can really extend the life of your tranny. I tend to do a drain and refill at every other oil change (10,000 miles). It may be overkill, but like I said, it is cheap insurance.

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  • 2 weeks later...

You should be able to find a local shop that has the ability to Flush your Transmission. This is much more effective than draining and refilling several times.

These same type shops can also drain and flush your radiator and engine block and they can also do a complete engine oil flush. This is probably cheaper than a Lexus dealer.

Good Luck!

:cheers:

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