Sign in to follow this  
Phargraves2

Oil & Transmssion Fluids

Recommended Posts

Gentlemen,

I am hoping someone can help me. I have a 1996 LS 400 and am going to have the oil and transmission fluids changed. What weight or type do I need? Also I would prefer to use Mobil 1 or a comparable synthetic. My email is Phargraves2@aol.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mobil one 5-30 is most popular among us...

Amsoil 5-30 is also excellent an what I use.

Use TOYOTA T-IV TRANSMISSON FLUID ONLY. It has synthetic additives, and is made for the tranny - great stuff!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hello, i do have a 96 also, if from the start you use synthetic on the engine oil keep on doing it or you can go back to conventional, but if you start with conventional you can not go to synthetic reason being the molecules on the synthetic does not breakdown compared to conventional,as it is used out in the engine, if you do this eventually youll be seeing leaks that you didntsee before, tranny oil just use toyota T-IV, am from LA also

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hello, i do have a 96 also, if from the start you use synthetic on the engine oil keep on doing it or you can go back to conventional, but if you start with conventional you can not go to synthetic reason being the molecules on the synthetic does not breakdown compared to conventional,as it is used out in the engine, if you do this eventually youll be seeing leaks that you didntsee before, tranny oil just use toyota T-IV, am from LA also

hmm i'm still going to the dealerhsip to get my oil changes. what kinda oil do they use??

does everyone on the fourm with a older lex do ur own oil changes??? just wondering.. and also.. would it be okie if i was to do an oil change at a Toyota Dealership instead of a Lexus dealerhsip?? would the oil they use be differnt?

thanks

Jimmy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

bico-lini --i have no idea who's used what kind of oil in my car, and there's prolly a better htan 50/50 chance they've mixed types. i know the latest round was synthetic. what kind of leaks are we talking about? wondering if that had anthing to do with a recent valve gasket cover leak...thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hello, i do have a 96 also, if from the start you use synthetic on the engine oil keep on doing it or you can go back to conventional, but if you start with conventional you can not go to synthetic reason being the molecules on the synthetic does not breakdown compared to conventional,as it is used out in the engine, if you do this eventually youll be seeing leaks.

Conventional and synthetic engine oils like Mobil 1 are compatible in both directions, and neither oil will CAUSE a leak, although synthetic may pass through more readily.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

best thing to do is consult your mechanic with regards to using synthetic after using conventional oil, they will be of more help and explaining to give, ask lexus or toyota dealer technicians, dealerships uses brand name oils on site it depends on who contracted out the supplies, btw i worked for conocphilips feriner of 76 gas, kendall, conoco, phillips 66, so am kind of familiar with what am talking about, just a thought for every body,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bico-lini --i have no idea who's used what kind of oil in my car, and there's prolly a better htan 50/50 chance they've mixed types. i know the latest round was synthetic. what kind of leaks are we talking about? wondering if that had anthing to do with a recent valve gasket cover leak...thanks.

I think the dealer uses "Toyota" oil. I have no idea who makes it for them however. I actually have an appointment tomorrow to take my car to have the oil chaged at the dealer. It was $26 for a oil change, but they informed me today that it has increased to $33. :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You'll know whether it is syn or dino at the dealer by the tremendous difference in cost.

Here's my 2 cents:

The dino vs. syn debates always generate much controversy with nothing much resolved. It basically boils down to personal preference with a heavy emphasis on cost.

Here is what I have gleaned from all the arguments:

Synthetic oil is clearly a superior lubricant than dino oil.

Synthetics and dino oils are completely interchangeable.

Synthetics do not CAUSE leaks. Leaks become more apparent with the thinner, more slippery synthetic. Changing back to a thicker dino oil will reduce the leak but there is still a leak.

You will be hard pressed to find ANY example of an engine failing because of a breakdown in the lubricant itself.

Synthetic producers promote longer drain intervals to compensate for the higher cost. You have to be CRAZY to go to long drain intervals with any oil.

The gap between syn and dino oils is narrowing. Regular oils are getting better and syns are dropping in quality. Mobil synthetics today have less PAO content than in the past. This is because of cost.

I think it boils down to cost and personal preference.

I use Mobil 1 0w40. Costs $4/qt on sale. You also get a $5/case rebate from Mobil. That is still 3-4 times the cost of a typical dino oil. I change my own oil so the cost is the same as if I went to Jiffy for a dino change but I get the benefit of the syn oil whatever that might be. I just consider it a little treat for my car. If I had to rely on a dealer for a syn oil change at $60+, then no question, I’d settle for dino. If you change your dino oil on a regular basis, you’d be hard pressed to see any difference.

Most dino fans argue that whatever benefit you get from syn, it is not worth the cost. Yet these same people will use $1-$2/qt name brand oil when there is plenty of 79cent no-name oil around. So we all have our personal price levels and the value we perceive to get from these levels.

glenmore

1990 LS400

1991 MBZ 300CE

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You will be hard pressed to find ANY example of an engine failing because of a breakdown in the lubricant itself.

Glenmore,

I totally argree with your points! Well though out....

I use Amsoil 5-30, just because it's "technically" better. It would benefit me more if I didn't have a garage to store the LS.

If a dino user religously changes oil @ 3k interval = 10 changes for 30K miles

If a syn user changes oil @ 5K = 6 changes in 30 K miles

Therefore, it's only slightly more expensive to run synthetic in the auto....

Now, there have been tests on NYC cabs (typical RWD Fords). They've put whatever dino oil that was on sale in them and run for 6-7K between oil changes. Then compared to "by the book name brand' 3k interval oil changes... broke down the engines...and virtually NO difference in wear over extended period of time (about 50k miles ).

So, I suppose, dino oil will get you 250K no problem. My previous 2 honda accords got to that mark. The amsoil folks proudly claim you'll get 4-500K! But by then we'd could be spending 2K+ per year for other repairs - not worth it <_<

99

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this