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Strutmaster Conversion Kit

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I am trying to find a solution to the bouncy rough ride of 1999 LX 470. Strutmasters says they have the fix, but can't find anyone that has done this. Would like to know this option will work with just going back to strut/shock application.

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I am trying to find a solution to the bouncy rough ride of 1999 LX 470. Strutmasters says they have the fix, but can't find anyone that has done this. Would like to know this option will work with just going back to strut/shock application.

Hey,

I just went through the same problem. I shopped around and finally decided to try and put a kit together myself from OEM Landcruiser parts (ordering stock Landcruiser springs and bilstein shocks). Although I accomplished my task I would not do the same thing over again for the slight savings versus what you would get from strutmasters (instructions would have been VERY helpful!). The only reason I went my direction is because I didn't want Monroe shocks but in retrospect I dont think it would have made that much of a difference.

I do however recommend getting a new set of front torsion bars because I had to go back and replace mine after I put the new suspension components on.

DO NOT get aftermarket accumulators. I went through 3 sets before I was basically told to &^#k off by the owner of the aftermarket accumulator company.

Good luck!

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I tried the B&B Accumulators....

First replacement after 9 years and 145,000 on the original suspension.... I completed it in January 2010.... and I flushed the entire system with 3 cans of new fluid....

June 2010... complete failure... contacted Keith and was told that B&B was having a problem with the diaphragms and o-rings... rec'd my replacement accumulators and installed immediately... I completely flushed the entire system again with new fluid... used 4 cans....

August 2010.... complete failure.... contacted Keith and was sent an email with a "Water Emulsion Test".... Now I'm told that B&B will not warranty the accumulators IF the hydraulic fluid fails the contamination test....

I haven't driven my truck in 6 weeks.... it is literally impossibly the way it is bouncing all over... my daughter says it is making her nauseous... I have yet to test the fluid with all the other things in life we are responsible for... and thank God I have other vehicles...

IF I am not covered under the warranty for the set I purchased in January... I am going to convert to the conventional suspension system... either with Strut Masters or ARB

http://www.arbusa.com/Products/Vehicle-Application-Guide/All-Vehicle-Makes/115.aspx

Please let me know how you're making out with your decisions....

Robert

(917) 662-2057

Please find the Water Reaction Test Below....

AHC FLUID WATER REACTION TEST

1) Purpose;

AHC fluid is very light colored highly refined low viscosity petroleum oil. Its appearance is (prior to new fluid from 2009 on) light greenish to light straw colored, clear and transparent. New fluid sold from 2009 on is dyed a light red/pink in color to distinguish it from other products. The similarity in appearance to brake fluid, many windshield cleaner concentrates, and un-dyed ethylene glycol antifreeze concentrate has contributed to many instances of service personnel using these similar appearing fluids to top-off or refill the AHC fluid reservoir. All of these common contaminating fluids are very detrimental to the ‘rubber’ components in the AHC system.

The diaphragms separating AHC fluid from high pressure Argon in B&B Suspension accumulators are made from a special ‘Nitrile’ compound formulated to retain flexibility and strength from -40 to + 180 F. These parts flex with every tiny bump and road roughness and thus are repeatedly stressed where they bend. The common contaminants mentioned above are VERY DETRIMENTAL to the diaphragm because they dramatically increase cracking from repeated flexing. Even very low contamination levels, barely detectable by this rough test, can reduce accumulator life by 75% or more.

This ‘Water Resistance Test’ is designed to quickly show if any significant amount of brake fluid, methanol, or ethylene glycol are present in the AHC fluid where an accumulator failed unexpectedly. Note this contamination may have caused failure of the original accumulators before the present owner acquired the vehicle. Many Owners have experienced repeated failures of Dealer installed OEM accumulators following known system contamination and accumulator failure, even though ‘the system was flushed with new AHC FLUID EACH TIME.’ Draining the reservoir and refilling with fresh AHC oil, then flushing to the accumulator bleed screws leaves nearly 75% of the old oil and contamination in the struts and main pressure accumulators.

2) Test Procedure;

Prepare 3 glass pint jars with lids by thoroughly washing with detergent and then thoroughly rinsing to ensure all detergent residue is removed . Ideally the final rinse should be with distilled water. From the right front accumulator bleeder, catch approximately 4 ounces of the old AHC oil into one of the clean glass pint jars—BEFORE ANY ACCUMULATORS OR FLUID ARE REMOVED. Then into another clean jar, catch a similar 4 ounce sample from the right rear bleeder. Add two (2) ounces of distilled water to each jar with the samples. Cap and then vigorously shake both jars for thirty (30) seconds to thoroughly mix the oil and water and then place the jars on a flat stable surface and allow them to sit and settle. After they have settled for 30 seconds, take color photographs of each bottle, then again after 2 minutes , and again after 5 minutes. Take the photos close enough to clearly show the interface between oil and water layers. EMAIL all 6 photos to kebowers47@gmail.com and kvnedbow@gmail.com.

WHY PERFORM THIS TEST? B&B will not warranty any accumulator placed in service on a vehicle unless this test is performed and passing results shown and confirmed by B&B prior to removing old accumulators and then installing B&B accumulators. IF in doubt, do not install new B&B accumulators until you check with either Keith or Kevin.

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B and B Suspension has promptly supplied FREE replacement accumulators for any that failed early, even if well beyond the free replacement period.

The vast majority of customers had no failures.

Analysis of the pattern of failures strongly indicated <5% of vehicles were generating >95% of failures, and ALL of the multiple unit failures. In-depth analysis of failed units showed two distinct failure patterns. Single unit failures were from loss of charge gas through charging valve, and the diaphragm usually was not damaged or deteriorated at all. Multiple unit failures had much different appearance, with many cracks developing in the 'flex zone' of the diaphragms, progressing until charge gas escaped into the oil. Microscopic examination showed micro-cracks all over diaphragms, indicating attack on the material by something other than AHC oil. Diaphragms are essentially inert when exposed to AHC at any temperature under about 450 F.

We concluded contamination of the system fluid was the likely primary cause of all multiple and repetitive failures. We developed a quick, cheap, easy, yet definitive test to detect foreign substances (contamination) in AHC oil. Of course we do not warrant our product against failure if used in contaminated systems. We began asking all Owners reporting any failure to test their AHC oil using the posted Water Reaction Test. We require this test for all New customers as a condition of validating the product warranty. The majority of owners are appreciative of our handling of this unfortunate situation. We provide a suggested protocol for cleaning up the AHC system which is not costly, easily performed in a driveway without any lifts or jacks, does not require removing the struts, but does take some calendar time (up to 3 weeks) if repetitive flushing is needed to remove all the crud.

Moreover, we DO offer existing Customers with failures caused by contaminated AHC fluid --- new, fully warranted, replacement accumulators at 50% discount--- if that Owner agrees to clean out the contamination their AHC system to 'clean' condition as shown by the Water Reaction test.

There have been a very few Owners who refuse to recognize their responsibility for maintaining the condition of their vehicle, and have even gone so far as to demand full refund + reimbursement for costs of installation of the replacement parts we supplied FREE. Our attorney advised we refuse all such demands since we would certainly prevail in any legal action and would recover all our costs of defending such an action plus punitive damages and likely sanction of the plaintiff's attorney.

B and B stands behind the products we sell and provides outstanding warranty service and unlimited technical support, so long as our products are used in the usual conditions of the AHC system. A contaminated AHC system is NOT a normal or expected condition.

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I tried the B&B Accumulators....

First replacement after 9 years and 145,000 on the original suspension.... I completed it in January 2010.... and I flushed the entire system with 3 cans of new fluid....

June 2010... complete failure... contacted Keith and was told that B&B was having a problem with the diaphragms and o-rings... rec'd my replacement accumulators and installed immediately... I completely flushed the entire system again with new fluid... used 4 cans....

August 2010.... complete failure.... contacted Keith and was sent an email with a "Water Emulsion Test".... Now I'm told that B&B will not warranty the accumulators IF the hydraulic fluid fails the contamination test....

I haven't driven my truck in 6 weeks.... it is literally impossibly the way it is bouncing all over... my daughter says it is making her nauseous... I have yet to test the fluid with all the other things in life we are responsible for... and thank God I have other vehicles...

IF I am not covered under the warranty for the set I purchased in January... I am going to convert to the conventional suspension system... either with Strut Masters or ARB

http://www.arbusa.co...-Makes/115.aspx

Please let me know how you're making out with your decisions....

Robert

(917) 662-2057

Attached are the Water Reaction Test results on AHC fluid drained from 'failed' accumulators FINALLY returned Nov, 2010 from Robert. Pictures tell it all

Please find the Water Reaction Test Below....

AHC FLUID WATER REACTION TEST

1) Purpose;

AHC fluid is very light colored highly refined low viscosity petroleum oil. Its appearance is (prior to new fluid from 2009 on) light greenish to light straw colored, clear and transparent. New fluid sold from 2009 on is dyed a light red/pink in color to distinguish it from other products. The similarity in appearance to brake fluid, many windshield cleaner concentrates, and un-dyed ethylene glycol antifreeze concentrate has contributed to many instances of service personnel using these similar appearing fluids to top-off or refill the AHC fluid reservoir. All of these common contaminating fluids are very detrimental to the 'rubber' components in the AHC system.

The diaphragms separating AHC fluid from high pressure Argon in B&B Suspension accumulators are made from a special 'Nitrile' compound formulated to retain flexibility and strength from -40 to + 180 F. These parts flex with every tiny bump and road roughness and thus are repeatedly stressed where they bend. The common contaminants mentioned above are VERY DETRIMENTAL to the diaphragm because they dramatically increase cracking from repeated flexing. Even very low contamination levels, barely detectable by this rough test, can reduce accumulator life by 75% or more.

This 'Water Resistance Test' is designed to quickly show if any significant amount of brake fluid, methanol, or ethylene glycol are present in the AHC fluid where an accumulator failed unexpectedly. Note this contamination may have caused failure of the original accumulators before the present owner acquired the vehicle. Many Owners have experienced repeated failures of Dealer installed OEM accumulators following known system contamination and accumulator failure, even though 'the system was flushed with new AHC FLUID EACH TIME.' Draining the reservoir and refilling with fresh AHC oil, then flushing to the accumulator bleed screws leaves nearly 75% of the old oil and contamination in the struts and main pressure accumulators.

2) Test Procedure;

Prepare 3 glass pint jars with lids by thoroughly washing with detergent and then thoroughly rinsing to ensure all detergent residue is removed . Ideally the final rinse should be with distilled water. From the right front accumulator bleeder, catch approximately 4 ounces of the old AHC oil into one of the clean glass pint jars—BEFORE ANY ACCUMULATORS OR FLUID ARE REMOVED. Then into another clean jar, catch a similar 4 ounce sample from the right rear bleeder. Add two (2) ounces of distilled water to each jar with the samples. Cap and then vigorously shake both jars for thirty (30) seconds to thoroughly mix the oil and water and then place the jars on a flat stable surface and allow them to sit and settle. After they have settled for 30 seconds, take color photographs of each bottle, then again after 2 minutes , and again after 5 minutes. Take the photos close enough to clearly show the interface between oil and water layers. EMAIL all 6 photos to kebowers47@gmail.com and kvnedbow@gmail.com.

WHY PERFORM THIS TEST? B&B will not warranty any accumulator placed in service on a vehicle unless this test is performed and passing results shown and confirmed by B&B prior to removing old accumulators and then installing B&B accumulators. IF in doubt, do not install new B&B accumulators until you check with either Keith or Kevin.

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I installed the kit on my truck this weekend. The only problem I had was with the torsion bar adjustment. It's turn the torsion bar not the basket, but I figured it out.

Also my truck is from up north and is a 98 model.....we had to cut the shocks out....that was a pain.

Ride quality....is...GREEEEEAAAAATTT!! Like Tony the tiger great. If you are hesitating based on ride quality trust me don't the truck drives great. However I recommend getting an impact wrench to get the torsion bars adjusted, unless you are the hulk.

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