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mattbys

Where Is My Ps Fluid Going?

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Dexron III. I would recommend using Mobil1 Synthetic Dexron III fluid. I would also recommend the Toyota one.

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Don't wait too long. As others here stated it is likely leaking on the alternator, this happend to me. I saw nothing on the floor. I have 65 Mustang too, which is very obvious when something leaks.

I Didnt hear the noise, THE FIRST TIME. The alternator went and I was stuck! Thanks AAA. Dealer wanted TOO MUCH to replace the pump and alternator. But from what I saw the pump was fine. So my buddy and I Replaced the Alternator and all was great. 30 days later... Now I am hearing the noise, Obviously power steering pump. The fluid is a bit low, but no signs anywhere.

The valve sounds like the culprit, and I am going to try it this week.

1995 SC400

160,000 Great miles!

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Do you guys know if new flow control and air control valves come with the ATSCO reman pump that Autozone carries? It seems that my air control valve is also suffering and needs to be replaced.

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Do you guys know if new flow control and air control valves come with the ATSCO reman pump that Autozone carries? It seems that my air control valve is also suffering and needs to be replaced.

I would doubt it, but take a look @ MICHEALSN's diagram on previous page.

The Air Control Valve is labelled....so you'll know what to look for.

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I have confirmed that the reman ATSCO pump from Autozone (with reservoir if you force the issue, see other post) comes with everything you need for a replacement power steering pump EXCEPT the air control valve. It seems that it would be a good maintenance idea (preventative or otherwise) to replace the valve if you are already replacing the power steering pump. I plan on pulling the alternator while I am in there, cleaning it up, and replacing the brushes to minimize the chances of it going south in the near term.

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It's been a year since I took off the 2 vacuum hoses and plugged the tubes they connect to. I have not noticed a difference in steering.

No more white puff of smoke but PS fluid keeps seeping 'through' the plug (or plugs) on the air control valve. I have to top off the reservoir every 2 weeks.

I bought a new ACV from irontoad.com and stubby combo wrenches as recommended on another thread. I can't find space to work the wrench (17mm). It hits the metal tube on the pressure port on one side and hits the alternator on the other.

I will now relax as my sore hands recuperate and decide if I will take off the alternator, unsrew the pressure port to move the metal tube or just seal the ACV tubes.

One more thing I learned today. Amazing. Taking off the belt is really easy - nothing to unscrew.

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It's been a year since I took off the 2 vacuum hoses and plugged the tubes they connect to.

I can't find space to work the wrench (17mm). It hits the metal tube on the pressure port on one side and hits the alternator on the other.

Can you tell me how you plugged the tubes? What did you use and where did you buy it?

And why did you buy a new Air Control Valve if the power steering system has been working fine for 2 years without one? Or were you planning to install a new ACV to stop a leak and then continue to keep the vaccuum hoses disconnected and the tubes they connect to plugged?

I've asked alot of questions so I hope you will answer eash one or else I will still be miserably confused about all this.

With regard to your question of gaining access to the bolts you are talking about, removing the

radiator, alternator and air cleaner assembly gives you loads of working room. Your radiator is likely full of leaves and dirt anyway so removing it would give you an opportunity to clean it.

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Michaelsn, I replaced the ACV last week, and found that it's not that hard with the correct tools. While I tried to use the crowfoot (17MM) that I bought for the job, my savior was a 17 metric box wrench exactly 6" long. This length allowed my to get to the ACV nut, and still allowed me enough torque room to loosen it. It's sure a tight fit, however. There seem to be 2 openings to get to the nut-one in front of the alternator, and one beside it, under the nut. The one in front doesn't allow you to get enough torque. The other one did.

One other thing. I made sure which tube went on which side of the ACV-using the small bulge on one side of the valve as a guide. Sure worked well, and I'm waiting to see if my fluid loss has stopped. Need to drive a little more. Best of luck.

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Here's how I plugged the tubes:

Plugs_with_text.sized.jpg

I bought a pack either from Autozone or PepBoys.

The steering works fine, but filling up the reservoir every week and seeing some of the fluid on my garage floor is annoying so I know I will eventually have to do something about it.

This morning I plugged the ACV end of it and added some epoxy. Hopefully that will "seal" it in.

If that works, fine I might leave it like that and just replace the ACV when I get another chance at remove anything - maybe when I need to replace the alternator.

If that continues to leak then I will replace the ACV and run it around without the vacuum hoses first. Another thread mentioned that a lot of PS fluid went straight to the engine when they forgot to replace the "seat" (see diagram from previous post) inside the pump. When that works then I will reconnect the vacuum hoses. Maybe I'll see an improvement in steering. Maybe.

I hope that saves you some misery. :)

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TexasLexus94,

Thanks for the reply. You just saved me some $. I was looking at buying a set of crowfoots myself. I'll try the box wrench if the epoxy does not stop the leak.

Can you tell me where the tube that connects to the ACV (circular bulge side) goes to? I forgot to note it down when I disconnect both hoses.

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The hose that connects to the bulge on the ACV runs to the air line connection near the Mass Air Sensor. The other hose connects to the top of the engine block, at the shiny place in front of the Lexus logo.

When you get the box wrench snug on the ACV nut, put on gloves, and twist really hard. I have 3 deep scrapes on my hands, since I forgot to put on gloves. It's a tight fit area, but it can be done. It's really easy to install the new valve, as long as you can loosen and remove the old one. Don't forget to use plastic bags around the alternator, as there is a lot of spillage all over the place when you take the valve off. This forum was a lifesaver with this info, so I didn't screw up the alternator.

I just checked my p/s fluid level, and it looks like I'm not losing any fluid. Best 80 bucks I've spent in a while.

Good luck.

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Did you happen to notice a "solvent" like smell from the exhaust as it was sucking the PS fluid? Mine looses fluid but it isn;t dripping on the alternator or the floor.

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VBdenny,

Sounds like you also have the ACV problem. If you pull the hose from the front of the engine I'm sure you'll find some trace of PS fluid around it.

I recommend disconnecting the hose from the engine until you decide to have it replaced. I also recommend plugging the hose. From what I've seen, PS fluid is not only being sucked by the engine but it's also being pushed out by the PS pump.

Did your daughter wear out your speakers yet?

Michael

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Just wanted to note that I continually lost P/S fluid for the 10K miles that I've owned the Lexus, but could find no trace of any fluid on either hose connection leading from the ACV. With no floor or alternator drips of any kind, and no other evidence of why I was losing the fluid, I changed the ACV simply because of the advice of this forum. It seemed to be the cheapest first step to solving the problem. Knock on wood, I think it's the answer.

And yes, I also think the power steering is smoother and more responsive. But I also believe in UFO's. Regardless, this is a great forum.

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It is the best forum for cars, ever.

I am still wrestling with this ACV thing. When I look at my leaking pump I see no oil evidence on the snout behind the drive pulley. I see oil on the hoses from the ACV and the oil that drips, misses the alternator altogether. Gets on the big wire harness outboard of it. I still think it is the ACV, but the dealer tech who has looked at it twice says it is the pump.

So if the new pump doesn't come with an ACV, then to transfer the existing one will cause a leak - sound reasonable?

I think I will plug the damn thing and see what happens before I buy a reman pump. Will cost $350.00 Canadian wholesale for the pump, and I think about $150 for the valve.

I may disconnect the ACV hoses and see if the steering works any differently. Good to hear from many that it makes no difference.

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Thanks Michael, yeah I'm glad to at least have an idea of what is going on. I'll replace it this summer. I very much liked your photos and descriptions on what to do for repairs. I'm not loosing a whole lot, but I do have to top it off every month or so. I'd like to hear what happens if you plug the hose, does it alter the steering at all?

My daughter doesn't really ever drive the car as she has the Corolla away at college and my wife never turns on the radio.

This IS the best car forum on the Internet withour a doubt. I have looked at others and find garble and if you get a response it is usually smartass in nature, and who needs that?

Hey, regarding the ACV valve, someone said Toyota has them, anywone have the Toyota part number?

Denny

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Denny,

Look up member - Biocolini??? or similar spelling....send him a PM.

He's the one that knows the part #'s...... I think B) B)

Otherwise, lexus should give you the part # over the phone -- then call toyota dealer - usually the only difference is the first # or so at the start.

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It is the best forum for cars, ever.

I am still wrestling with this ACV thing.  When I look at my leaking pump I see no oil evidence on the snout behind the drive pulley.  I see oil on the hoses from the ACV and the oil that drips, misses the alternator altogether.  Gets on the big wire harness outboard of it.  I still think it is the ACV, but the dealer tech who has looked at it twice says it is the pump.

So if the new pump doesn't come with an ACV, then to transfer the existing one will cause a leak - sound reasonable?

I think I will plug the damn thing and see what happens before I buy a reman pump.  Will cost $350.00 Canadian wholesale for the pump, and I think about $150 for the valve. 

I may disconnect the ACV hoses and see if the steering works any differently.  Good to hear from many that it makes no difference.

SRK,

I think someone put a cheap, clear fuel filter valve in the hose that runs from ACV up to the upper valve cover. THis gave him evidence that the valve was faulty - as PS fluid collected in the fuel filter - otherwise, he could never see the problem.

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The valve is part number 17630-16040. It cost me $81.00 US from irontoad.com, including shipping. I'd definitely change the valve first, and if this doesn't cure the problem, then use it on the replacement p/s pump.

Toyota wanted $105.00 US plus tax. It was worth waiting a week. Irontoad is a dealer in the Northeast, I believe. Robinson Lexus, or something like that.

Best of luck.

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The air control valves available at Toyota and Lexus carry the same part number - 17630-16040.

I purchased mine in March, 2004, from Champion Toyota in Houston, Tx. Their web address is www.toyotaworld.com. It cost $68.97 plus shipping of $9.00 for a total of $77.97.

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Thanks very much for the info guys. I am going to replace the valve first, and perhaps isolate it too, before doing the pump.

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hello, while were on this topic to everyone who responds and since the power steering pump is out if you decided to, might as well rebuilt the power steering pump rebuilt kits from dealer lists around 30 bucks so for the mechanically inclined you should do this, did mine when i replaced the pressure hose and replaced my rack and pinionstering, just my .02 :cheers:

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I'm new to this board, and for some reason, I am unable to email or PM users. I wanted to ask mattyb if changing the ACV solved his issue of the missing PS fluid. Also, do you guys think it would be a good idea for me to do this myself or to order the part and then have a shop put it on? I am pretty good with electronics, but not that knowledgable under the hood... thanks in advance for your time,

Gaz

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